Microbial Essentials for Auto and Regular Cannabis Genetics.
Microbial Essentials for Auto and Regular Cannabis Genetics.
Microbial Essentials for Auto and Regular Cannabis Genetics.
.Hello all,
I'm going to cover several aspects of soil development, preparation and care. How microbial life relates to feeding your plants. This information is from several podcasts of Doctor studies I've listened to and taken notes. I'm not going to list each Doctor involved in the clinical studies.
Dr. Allison Justice,
This information is combined with my use of what I call a Fungal Repository for optimum results.
NPK Nitrogen, Potassium and Phosphorus.
Nitrogen, 50-200 ppm MAX per feeding 150 ppm is ideal.
Potassium, Pureed sliced bananas with the skin on and potatoes with the skin on are best. These will be blended with distilled or RO water and poured into your repository holes. See the first pages of this thread where I cover this step. There will be an increase in ant activity as they are searching for this food. Get some ant traps.
Phosphorus, 85% is washed out or leeched from the soil. 100 ppm max per feeding. Most nutrient applications recommend three times greater amount than is needed.(lockup) Low/medium of 0-5 ppm to a max of 80 ppm. 15 ppm is ideal for cannabis.
When phosphorus is denied it has the same effect as cold temperatures with plants getting a purple hue.
Cal/Mag = Epsom salts. One or the other is needed not both most often. Cal is used in greater quantities versus Mag. Poinsettas and Tomatoes have very similar nutritional needs to cannabis.
UNDERSTAND THIS ! understand this ! UNDERSTAND THIS !
FLUSHING* 1 and 2 week flushes.
* YOU CAN'T FLUSH NUTRIENTS OUT OF YOUR PLANTS !!!
* You can cause nutrient deficiencies.
*Flushing of excess nutrients from your soil didn't need to be there to begin with. You are wasting money and your plants are only risking nutrient lockup because of over feeding.
MICROBIAL BIO STIMULANTS Geographical influence's
Microbes become fewer as you get closer to the earths poles. N&S Microbial diversity is most dense at the equator.
Fungal communities prefer the no till system in organic soil. Minerals in the soil affect the Ph of the soil. ROOTS will travel to the best soil food source and PH levels.
* Microbes only grow at certain food sources, for that type of microbe. * Don't change up your nutrients throughout the season. Roots become acclimated to a certain type of microbe feeding them.
* If a Ph buffer is added to the soil substrate. The microbial life will move away from the ACIDIC and ALKYLINE buffers. This essentially stunts the growth of your plants. This correlates back to over feeding and mineral effecting PH balance. Stabilize and stay consistent throughout your grow cycle with amendments.
If you are going to experiment with nutrients. Do it from the start of the season, when you are preparing the microbial colonies. Keeping notes of that bag and keeping that particular microbial colony stabilized.
* What is the closest thing to a magical elixer? Mammoth P1 showed a 12% increase over untreated soils and a multitude of other soil amendments. (Per this study)
*Innoculants* Innoculants before planting are crucial for microbial life. When the soil does't have a plant.
Microbes will die off after harvest for seasonal growers . As the roots are no longer feeding the microbial colonies in return.
* The Rhizosphere* needs consistent Ph balanced microbial stimulants.
* 99% of microbes are good. The 1% that are bad are very bad.
* Microbes are a (cultivar, species)*. The sum of microbial species together are better. Than any single species of microbes on it's own.
* Colonies of microbes empower each other.*
*CARBON* Organic matter in your soils, Is the single best subsrate amendment.
*Humic Acids* Clod Buster Humate (Bio Pesticides Research)
Humates black or brown have a high molecular weight. Humis forms under the duft layer. Leaves, bark and twigs decomposed by fungi.(undisturbed decomposition)
*Fulvic Acid* Acid soluble fraction low molecular weight, yellow in color.
*Culation* (Q-lation) Is to bond with or buffer.
Humic and Fulvic Acids will stabilize the Ph of your soil as long as you don't introduce outside buffers, amendments that aren't natural to your microbial colonies. That you started before prior to spring outdoor or indoor planting.
I hope you found this information helpful. I spent a lot of time searching for verified scientifically tested and proven sources. You may have been informed differently. I know I certainly had been misinformed on several things. I can assure you these are very effective practices and procedures.
I tried to document the fungal repositories the best I could in the start of this thread. Even muted stunted seedlings are correcting growth patterns.
Peace farmerlion
*TEAS*, Teas need consistent inputs to work in the root zone properly. Don't change up your tea recipe throughout the season. *(Roots acclimate to a certain microbe for nutrient uptake).
The longer a tea sets a certain type of microbe will become dominant. Each food source is eaten by a different type of microbe. Think of microbes as species or strains of cannabis. Food sources continually change until all sources are consumed and the microbial life dies.
A new tea needs 18 to 24 hours to develop the first microbes. I have a large rain water collecting container. I continually feed fresh fruits and potatoes to in a pureed form. If I stop feeding the tea being produced. A secondary set of microbes will develop and start eating the next available food sources.
* LIGHTS* What is the most effective and efficient light source?
ROI Return on investment. PPFD 800 watts of LED per plant was and is the most efficient light source.
*FIM, LOLLI POPPING and DEFOLIATING*
Plants showed positive results from stressing. THERE WAS A LOSS IN HUMIDITY CONTROL. Especially pertaining to indoor LED grows. The temperature needs to be increased or added ventilation to offset RH.(relative humidity)
* Defoliation increases the salinity of that individual plant that was altered. *
* Reduce feeding and overall PPM in direct proportion to the amount of defoliating you have done.
*CURING* 40% to 60% is optimal for connoisseur quality buds.
Water activity meter's are very expensive. But for large scale operations are crucial. Microbial growth from .8 of less stops botrytis. (.6) is consumer preference for the highest quality bud to smoke.
so what did the studies find as far as curing techniques go? For large operations curing in 5 gallon plastic buckets. The buckets weren't air tight. Moisture content in large and small buds equalized and homogenized. No actual release of moisture by burping actually took place. The CO2 levels actually increased from the breath of the employees burping the buckets.
Glass jars were the most effective producing the best quality buds for smoking. Having a .6 moisture(twigs and limbs snap when bent) . Keeping the jars and harvested plants in a dark room reduced chlorophyll production and increased overall quality.
Plants are really digging your care!
