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Grindhouse Double Hitter! Prophet and BlockHead IBL

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Gnome, I'm super happy you have mites instead of a virus. That's great news. I don't want to continue the poison debate in your thread but just in case anyone else has mite trouble, I decided to post what worked for me.

Organocide

This is the best stuff I ever used. It's easy to find at Lowe's or Home Depot. It's 100% organic and OMRI listed to prove it. Say's it's safe to use up til day of harvest. All I know is it works. And not just for mites, it kills like 25 different pest, even powdery mildew. Great stuff, give it a try. Less than $10 in the pump spray bottle at the Lowe's on the corner.

wsp


I just used up what spinosad I had left on some plants for starters,
I found organocide @at a local store so I'm going to go for that next.
I'll try this first and if the results aren't good enough then I move onto the bigger guns,
I have a small bottle of floromite from last year and I always keep a few NPSs around and some spectracide.
i don't mind a debate wspman but it almost always degrades into an all out fuckU fest with a few always having to have the last dig at another that sees it from a different view and the thread becomes a battle ground

Cmobile, no telling where they came from,
when you use soil there's always the bug factor,
no company gets around it....comes with the territory.
of course some are worse than others
I use to pasturize my soil and I still ended up with gnats to do battle with.
Ive been having white fly issues for the last 6 months and the pic above shows
a 1/2 dozen fooking broad mites hitching a ride on a white fly so I think thats the vector the BMs used!

a big thanks to ghostnugz who spotted and recognized what my prob is, its a big relief :good:

now!
time to do battle with a hoard of broadmites!:dueling:
 
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daheadies

poppin' outta control
is broadmites and russet mites the same thing? my plants did the same thing about 6 months ago, and everyone around town got it at the same time.. it was attributed to a bad batch of something at the towns major grow store..
 

Critter

Think for yourself, question authority
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Veteran
I hope you win this battle and all is not lost with this crop. I hope i can offer a bit of advice that you probably already know but I would stop taking them outside at all. You may be surprised at how many bad bugs dwell right in your backyard!
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
is broadmites and russet mites the same thing? my plants did the same thing about 6 months ago, and everyone around town got it at the same time.. it was attributed to a bad batch of something at the towns major grow store..

I don't know D, but the broads are super tiny and it took me a while to spot one, I had to use the 100x zoom on my scope.
also saw what looked like a lot of eggs so I'll be retreating evrything in another week or so. I can spot regular mites with out a scope but these lil suckers are invisible to the naked eye.
if your towns grow store had em they would certainly get passed around very easily and it would be a while before anyone caught on...by that time they would have been heavily spread around grows in town


I hope you win this battle and all is not lost with this crop. I hope i can offer a bit of advice that you probably already know but I would stop taking them outside at all. You may be surprised at how many bad bugs dwell right in your backyard!
I know and I'm guilty, I love to put my little sproutlings out to get natural sunlight and freash air, but before I transplant from the 18oz cups, while they're still small I put a few no pest strips in the small seedling room to kill of any pests that may have think they found a home



Avid and be done with it, then give yourself about 3wks to flush it out of the plant good

thanks for the tip greentipz, Q on the avid, does it kill eggs?
I don't have any but I do have several other things right now that will hopefully knock down these lilttle minions of hell.
also going to bomb the grow area.
I need to move quick on this
once you see the 1st signs of crinkle leaf its only a matter of days before the damage intensifies at a very fast rate and once the damage on new growth shoots reaches a certain point they won't recover, if they do it takes quite a while.

forgot to add,
in a pinch rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle knocks any mite down.... fast!
kills the eggs also
I tried/tested it last year on some reg mites and it didn't hurt the leaves,
don't use it in flower thos or you'll dissolve the resin heads.
another way to use iso, tho not recommended and you have to be very carefull is to pour iso on a paper towel and put it in a box or some other fairly air tite container and the fumes will kill any bug, but you can also kill your plant if left too long, I'm talking a matter of a few minutes.
 

Braindead#1

Omae wa mo shindeiru
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Nice broadmite pics....sorry for you bro...it's very difficult to kill this shit... :(

Same shit few years ago...

Apollo mist

22752DSC04475.JPG


22752DSC04474.JPG


Special skunk

22752DSC04604.JPG


Good luck bro
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
yeah man brain...thats what 60 of my elite keepers looked like last sept.
ghost said it... the destroyer of destroyers

how did you finally knock em down braindead#1
 

Greentipz

Member
avid

avid

Yes avid gets eggs your plt may be to far gone bro sorry you can try all that other shit u want but eventually you got to do the avid believe me i been thru it
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Yes avid gets eggs your plt may be to far gone bro sorry you can try all that other shit u want but eventually you got to do the avid believe me i been thru it

i was looking at the prophet last nite and treating it and its really close to being toast already, once you start seeing the symptoms in less than a week your plants will take a fair amount of time to recover, usually you have to wait for new growth to sprout out else where on the plant, 3-4 wks and it not worth that amount of time for me unless its a keeper.
I have 7 prophets so if this one goes I'll still be good


here is someuseful info I found
Broad mite

Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Banks)

Tarsonemidae, ACARINA


Description and life cycle


The egg stage is the most easily identified microscopically, they are clear, oval shaped with the surface covered in white pimples or tubercles making a spotted pattern. They are usually found in the growing tips on the underside of newly formed leaves and under the calyx of flowers and fruit or in protected depressions. The life cycle through egg, two nymphal stages to adult takes between 4 to 10 days depending on temperature, with up to 20-30 generations a year if conditions are favourable. Adults are oval, tapering slightly toward the rear end. Females are very small approx 0.3mm long, barely visible without magnification, males are slightly smaller, they are both transparent to yellowish green in colour, stationary when feeding, moving slowly when disturbed, the nymphal stages resemble the adults. Adult broad mite only live from 5 to 13 days the female broad mites laying 30 to 76 eggs over this period.
Crops attacked and problems caused


Broad mite is a major pest in the warmer parts of Australia and favours capsicum plants. It is a minor pest in temperate Australia but will cause severe damage when conditions are favourable. Broad mite usually attacks the young growth of a wide variety of vegetable crop plants especially capsicums or peppers and many ornamentals by injecting a toxin from their saliva as they feed so that a few mites can cause a lot of damage. It has been known for many years as a pest in glasshouses and of summer grown vegetables and ornamentals. Mite damage is often reported when conditions are warm and humid. High humidity (80 to 90%) and temperatures above 25oC are favourable.

Feeding by the mite may cause leaves to bronze and thicken, become brittle, corky or cupped downward and narrower than normal. Young stem growth may be distorted and stunted with young terminal buds so distorted that flowers do not open; heavy feeding can cause young terminal buds to die and drop off. Severely damaged plants could die. The symptoms of broad mite feeding are often confused with viral symptoms or hormonal herbicide damage.
Be aware of early symptoms, with careful crop inspection so that action can be taken quickly. With effective treatment to control the mites new plant growth is healthy with no long term damage unless an initial severe infestation has seriously weakened the plants.
Reducing the threat of invasion and attack


Reduce the chance of pest invasions by managing potential sources of outbreaks by thoroughly controlling/removing weeds and infested plants. DO NOT LEAVE OLD CROPS, ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE ALREADY INFESTED WITH PESTS THAT CAN COLONISE NEW CROPS.

Broad mites are so small (~0.3mm) that they are difficult to see even with a good hand lens but they tend to crowd into crevices and buds. They can enter the crop undetected from nearby host pants or infected plant material imported into the crop. Infected plants are usually not noticed until damage is severe and by this time the mites could have moved onto other plants. Citrus is a very good host.
  • Be aware of early symptoms, with careful crop inspection so that action can be taken early
  • Avoid introducing infested plant material into the crop, either with seedling plants
  • Avoid moved mites around the crop on staff moving from infested to clean areas.
  • Use a fallow period, if possible, when no crop is grown to clear pest populations
  • Use seedlings that have been grown away from infested areas, i.e. start with a clean crop
  • Monitor pest levels to act early for control. Control is simpler and less expensive when plants are young and spray coverage is not an issue.
Crop monitoring:


MAKE INSPECTIONS ROUTINE AND KEEP GOOD RECORDS!
These mites are too small for the naked eye to see, but changes in the growing tips of plants are a tell tale sign:
  • Get into the habit of walking right through your crops in a set pattern (a M or Z)
  • Check about (about 1%) of your plants very carefully
  • Look at the growing crown for signs of distortion and mottling (will not see feeding spots as for TSM). Large numbers are not required for damage to be visible.
  • Keep good records of pest levels and treatments used
Note:


  • If you can spot isolated hot spots early you may only need to spray a small area!
  • Plan to introduce biological control agents as soon as thrips are found
Chemical control


Chemical control of Broad mite is not difficult but problems are encountered because there are only a few chemicals registered. Most registered chemicals do not kill the egg stage or have enough residual to kill hatching larvae. Two applications should be used at about 5 days apart to kill all stages. The chlorinated chemical dicofol and abamectin are the most effective.

Include a resistance management strategy into your spray program to reduce the chance of resistance. If monitoring indicates the need to spray earlier, then insecticide resistance, inappropriate spray application or inadequate farm hygiene should be suspected and expert advice sought.
Relevant beneficial insects


Natural enemies have been investigated and biological control programs using predaceous mites and plant bugs have been investigated. Predatory mites are now available for use in greenhouses.

The predatory mite Neoseiulus cucumeris is now available in Australia at Biological Services (external link) at Loxton; and Goodbugs website (external link).

The suppliers on this page will help you develop an IPM program suitable for your crop and situation. Many also provide IPM monitoring services.

Broad mites are also preyed upon by lacewing larvae, and other general predators. As with WFT you can also boost the numbers of beneficial insects in your crop naturally by holding back on broad spectrum insecticides, providing safe plant species as habitat near the crop and maintaining higher levels of organic soil carbon.
 
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G

Guest 88950

i used a 50/50 iso / h2o in a spray bottle to kill a spider mite infestation during veg, i also added an asprin to plain water for every other spray.

its been a few yrs since then but i saw no ill effects from the iso/h2o spray.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
hey SSH, Ive also used iso in veg... works great and kills the eggs too.
I hit some last nite with iso.
never heard of spraying with asprin, I have added it to my feed water.
 

Braindead#1

Omae wa mo shindeiru
ICMag Donor
Veteran
So far the most terrific insect encounter on my plants.
I used full of pesticid: bifenthrine, imidaclopride, alphamétrine, dicofol...

Nothing to do, when you seeing, it's over...i lost all my plant.
I burned this shit to the bone. Now i'm using neem and few days before flowering i spray systemic pest...that's all.

Abamectine is good but to dangerous guys, my point of view ;)

Good luck gnome! Keep us updated!

:wave:
 
G

Guest 88950

i crushed the asprin to help it dissolve.

the plants were bag seed so no risk really but i saw it mentioned at another site and tried it.....definitly killed all the eggs.

the nice thing is theiso/h20 spray evaporates fast...my leaves were not waxy after though, kinda coarse to the touch and no longer glossy looking.

better then having spider mites or any bugs.

EDIT

im going to use beneficial insects to keep the bad ones away......i hate using any pesticide but will if needed.
 
sorry to hear gnome, those girls look awful... good luck with the battle. forgive me, i may not be pokin in your thread for a while, all this bug talk makes me itchy! haha
 

rhaco

Member
Hey Gnome!

Sorry to hear about your pest issues :/

I had myself an attack of these nasty things about two months ago, and used a grandma recipe;

For 5l of water:

- 100ml max of olive oil
- a chopped clove of garlic
- an chopped onion
- about 250ml of lemon juice
- few drops of "dish soap" "you know the liquid soap you use to clean your dishes)

You can also add black pepper, etc.

Let the recipe macerate for at least 48, than filter, and pulverize it twice a week during the attack, and once a week as preventive action.
All the fellas who had tried this recipe had good results. For my part, I pulverize this every week, didn't clean all the room, and the new plants introduced in the flo room don't show any sign of being attacked :)

'Hope it'll help you!
Vibesss

Edit: this recipe works almost for every bugs issues ;) During vegging AND flowering,without any risk for the plants
 

stone_edd

Active member
Glad you got the diagnosis you were after with a bit of perserverance you'll get rid of them i'am sure.

The article about Broad mites was very informative, great post.

I have the beginnings of a spidermite break out and thanks to Rhaco hopefully have a cheap remedy that i can make at home.

Peace

Stone
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
hi edd, there a thread on broad mites in the informary right now with lots of other usefull info.
everyone needs to educate themselves and recognized the specific symptoms of these destroyers and be ready to do battle effectively.
otherwise by the time you mess around and finally figure out what it is you'll have considerable damage and then if you don't have the tools to treat them and have to order it....
you've pretty much lost your crop.... no joke

ghost hit the nail on the head when he said ,
"these mites are the destroyer of destroyers!"


well things are looking up for my prophets and BHs.
the avid hasn't arrived yet but I treated with no pest strips and sprayed with iso-alcohol.
the damage has been stabilized, if the treatments so far didn't work the plant would be pretty much toast right now,

these braod mites work very fast! when you start to see the symptoms the damage steam rolls in a matter of days!
10-12..14 days and your plants are toast if not treated

here's a pic from yesterday
picture.php


compared to the pic 6 days ago when the symptoms appeared i'm happy,
picture.php


by now you wouldn't recognize the plant from the damage that would have been done at this point if the no pest strips and iso didn't do anything.
I'm also bombing the rooms every 4 days for a few weeks to knock out any eggs that may hatch.
and here's something else to know about them, they can thrive on dead plant matter, so theres another vector for infestation.
so keep your room free of dead leaves etc etc.
 
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Braindead#1

Omae wa mo shindeiru
ICMag Donor
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Very sad news bro...Clean very very well your box..got this shit 2 times in my plants...

Keep the good vibes :)

:wave:
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
the aftermath...

the aftermath...

ok... so after a week of spraying this and that to combat the broad mites I got the avid on friday and doused em down good, I checked today and i see plenty of mites......all DEAD!
I'm not letting my guard down just yet
i also saw plenty of eggs. the avid isn't supppose to kill eggs but the volck oil I sprayed last week is spose to...
so its a wait see thing right now.

the plants are pretty frazzled at this point between the spraying and the mites.
hope they recover quickly.
my prophet 5 probably isn't worth saving, its a male
but I want to to do a bit of pollen chucking.

I need to get a few more cuts and tomorrrow they finally get into 12/12... I was going to flip at the beginning of the month when I noticed the *mystery disease* might be at it again so I waited.
at least I still have plants left to put into flower so Its all good.

next time I post it will be with pics of some lovely prophet
and BH teenage girlies!
 
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Greentipz

Member
avid

avid

avid has a residual effect that stays on the plant leaves so it definately should kill the eggs.....two sprayings is enough, then flush the hell out of them good luck gnome
 
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