Green Guy LED- ( Formerly Magnum LED )

[sammyz2646]

And to the DR. . . . . .

Thanks for clarifying the difference between the adhesive and the paste.
It is IMPERATIVE that if I have another failure , that removal will be easier with the paste

You guys know so much more than me with regards to this stuff

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

I am not gonna argue over thermal paste and say you are wrong or whatever but I was just basically telling him what he could buy that is good and local. Arctic silver 5 is a really good thermal paste. I use to use it all the time when I fixed and reballed xboxs and ps3 gpu's. I have also used mx2 and mx4 the mx2 is runny I like the mx-4 a little better but arctic silver always worked really well for me.

Another thermal paste I have used that also worked really well was ic diamond it was a little expensive and a pain in the ass because u had to heat it up first to get it to spread smoothly but did work really well.

But that is crazy how people have used toothpaste I have never heard of that before or evwn chocolate. Does it matter what toothpaste you use? How about chocolate how does that work? I have to rip my laptop apart because my graphics chip is in need of a reflow or reball because everytime I use window media player after a hour my video starts getting choppy.

Sorry, I really didnt mean to be a dick MX-1 was even more runny then MX-2 but 4 is rated for 8 years.
According to the chart chocolate is worse then no compound, so I guess sugar is bad.
I should try K-Y. Ive got lots of that I'm not using...

I dunno what toothpaste but what I wanna know is how bad would mayo smell after 2 weeks.

 

[Mikenite69]

Ya it's not a big deal I am always up to learn something new all the time. Its always nice to find something else that is better in the world. The mx4 I did like a lot it was a lot thicker than the 2. The price point is pretty decent to for the mx4. I still have some tunes left over of arctic silver 5 and the mx2 and mx4.

I am most likely gonna use the mx4 on the graphics chip on my laptop when I take it apart. I have never been a computer guru though I mean I can take them apart and reflow or reball a chip but when it comes to processors and and knowing what does with what and over clocking them that's where I am lost.

I still gotta try to put my quad core processor that I bought for my laptop in it. I had to wait for a custom bios chip in order to run the qaud core hopefully it works. Dual cores are good but they get kinda tiring after a while. Plus hp and there graphics chips suck seems to also be a problem with hp laptops with the video chips going bad or needing to be worked on after a couple of years.

 

[sammyz2646]

OOOOKKKKKAAAAAYYYYY.............

So I managed to order parts from China and get this LED light plant fixed. I was intimidated at first, but this experience was actually a blessing in disguise. These LED COB's are super easy and if you have a basic understanding of common sense, (which is asking a lot, I know), MOST people should be able to either FIX or BUILD their own DIY LED grow light

I know hanging it like I have it here against the wall, on a light rail, as supplemental lighting , will probably overheat a chip here or there, but I can fix them now And, of course I can't even think of working in this room without turning the LED's OFF and turning the HID nano's to 50%
This is normally a flower room , but is interchangeable as an additional veg room as seen here.

Nice part is I don't have to "DUCK" anymore as these lamps are all out of head bumping range. My head is full of previous bruises still healing

I may add some warm white COB's to the mix later

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

Ummm.. drool.

That looks bitchen.

 

[sammyz2646]

Ummm.. drool.

That looks bitchen.

Thanks Doc, your positivity is appreciated. Thank you for the compliment.

So I made contact with the NEW owner's of Magnum, I guess they are in Florida now instead of B.C. like before. After calling for forever and getting no response, the new owners are stepping up to the plate and mailing me the replacement COB's at no cost. It's nice to see a company honor their former owners debacle.

Oh and Doc, the MX-4 worked perfectly! Your input (and others here) was key in me completing this repair by myself

The existing heat stinks and chips had NONE to speak of upon inspection, crazy

 

[sammyz2646]

I also elected to remove the covers on EACH COB, which meant tediously pulling apart EACH unit- 16 times- and that equals 16 x 12 little teenie screws and a little bit of carpal tunnel to finish it off, but it should be worth it.




I am hoping by removing these covers, that the heat will be significantly less since it will not be trapped in the Cob area. PLUS it will be more intense as there will be no obstructions blocking the spectrum. I will obviously need to take great care to not spray water, or touch, or even stare at the Cob, at ALL. This room is unworkable without a switch-off of all extra LED's

 

[sammyz2646]

I also just picked up this little single COB unit from Shenzen. It is the G5 64 x 3 full spectrum chip. Listed @ 200 watts. Drawing ~ 110 actual



It may not last forever, but I will simply replace it now as I understand the process. I may take the cover of this unit out as well to prevent heat from building up and blocking any extra light. I like this as opposed to the big unit all cooking each other to death. I would like to buy several of these once they figure out how to build them without failure, maybe mix in some warm white single's or change them out and use the hardware as a building block.

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

What, no thermal paste?? That's crazy! I can only see that removing the polycarbonate is a positive thing.

I went and picked up the exact unit that you have in the pics, 64x3. It looks pretty good in theory; the unit is nice and clean looking, but mine lasted me exactly 10 hours... A replacement cob is in the mail but I don't hold much faith in the replacement. It was $130 or something and that's pretty cheap for all the fun I will have rebuilding the fucker.

The hole in the middle of the heatsink is the same as what you showed in your pics before, in fact all the parts appear similar. The hottest part of the whole chip is not thermally protected. I guess the 50 cents more for a complete heatsink was just too much for these guys.

I've got a couple of options, I can just repair the lamp with a piece of copper or toss the new cob on my own heatsink and do a DIY build from parts, Dr.Nonagon style. I've got three builds done now so I guess it's time to take some pics.

It's interesting that this 200W LED that is claimed to run 110w can't actually under closer inspection run more then 90.9w based on the driver max output. Funny Stuff.

 

[sammyz2646]

Looking forward to your pics DOC!!!

 

[sammyz2646]

After contacting Shenzen and eventuality purchasing 10 of the 32x3 full spectrum 50 watt cobs, As you can see here, this engineering just isn't well done at all. Dr. Nogano called it just like it happened.



Since my FULL REPAIR on the big light plant, I , AGAIN, have lost 5 more units in the 16 total. Time for a BETTER plan

After my $318 purchase from China of the 10 new chips, only weeks ago, I tried to get Shenzen to replace SOME of them as they failed super quick. NOPE! They started to question me as to my installation methods, and wondered if those that failed , were the old original's , or the new ones. I don't really know, but to get ZERO warranty for a recent purchase is not ok with me, regardless of quality or issues on the company end.. Surely most companies would give you SOME kind of compensation after you spend $318 on 10 pieces of their product and ~ half has failed

 

[sammyz2646]

A few weeks ago, about the same time I rebuilt the light plant, I took the 2 extra drivers and extra chips that I had from the original purchase repair attempt, and put them here. . . . They are not failing like the crowded light plant chips. HMMMMM



With the bigger heat sink's, and the nice A/C breeze backing them

The garden does really respond to the full spectrum chip, I must admit.

I may stick some Cree COB's inside the light plant soon, with the drivers mounted on the exterior of course, leaving some of the 16 available holes un-used to maintain suitable weight and heat within the structure

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

The main problem Shenzen lamp is with the heatsink. It may just as well not have a heatsink on it with such a small contact area. I mean it's missing the center which I bet was copper so to save the 45 cents they just said fuck it. It should also be noted that I could only feel very little air coming out of the Shenzen lamp so it was being restricted somehow.

It should not take a lot to cool a 50w either. A 100w chip only needs to cool 60w max and even a low end cpu cooler can do that. You have clearly proved this Sammy by transferring the chip to a passive heatsink with full contact to the die. An active heatsink should have far more cooling power as we find in the 200w and yet the one I purchased was almost DOA.

I have rebuilt the Shenzen 200w 'Speical,' with an active heatpipe cooler. The temps normal, and the color of the light is visibly different. It's much more pink now where as before it was more blueish due to overheating of the previous design. I have seen this effect charted on some data sheets but it was neat to see happen so drastically.

While I waited for the replacement chip I rebuilt the unit with the burnt out cob. Only half the chip was burnt but the change in colour is obvious.


Damaged Chip
Replacement chip

 

[sammyz2646]

Nice and tidy craftsmanship there! I can see you have several hours into that lighting array.. Lots of work for sure, but well done.. It looks amazing!!!

My question is . . . . . .

With all those components in a small old metal box, with heat generated from several of the various internal components within. . . .


https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=53540&pictureid=1249719



Wouldn't a guy rather have those items either re- located away from the LED itself (if possible)?? Help me understand

I do understand the need for a clean tidy grow like you have going there, but I was thinking that there could be a lot of addition heat being semi-contained within that old computer box- raising the ambient temp of the LED overall perhaps some...

Forgive me, my perspective is simply coming from a common sense angle, and NOT so much a skilled, or even very knowledgable LED base


Just trying to learn. . . . .

 

[sammyz2646]

I ordered 2 items to assure I can monitor the temperature on the COB itself.
I plan on arming myself with some necessary tools like. . . .

This temp gun-

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EW837S/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1


And these welding glasses, as I have BLASTED my eyeballs a time or two too many at this point with these LED's. It can't be good.

After I ordered the temp gun, I started thinking about just how I would AIM it at the COB, UMMMM YEAH

GLASSES PLEASE!

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e1140...tem=181405419030&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

This will allow me to dial in the surface temps to achieve the most efficient operating temperature specifically, per each chips specs

Of course , these glasses are not to be worn for ANY other purpose whatsoever other than high intensity single points of light



How do you folks achieve this measurement without pain and blindness??? Just curious

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

Nice and tidy craftsmanship there! I can see you have several hours into that lighting array.. Lots of work for sure, but well done.. It looks amazing!!!

My question is . . . . . .

With all those components in a small old metal box, with heat generated from several of the various internal components within. . . .


https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=53540&pictureid=1249719



Wouldn't a guy rather have those items either re- located away from the LED itself (if possible)?? Help me understand

I do understand the need for a clean tidy grow like you have going there, but I was thinking that there could be a lot of addition heat being semi-contained within that old computer box- raising the ambient temp of the LED overall perhaps some...

Forgive me, my perspective is simply coming from a common sense angle, and NOT so much a skilled, or even very knowledgable LED base


Just trying to learn. . . . .

using a remote ballast or driver is often a great idea. If I was using many drivers I would totally do that.

The cooler in the box has been positioned to blow the air straight out the back. It's really butted up right against it. It allows for great cooling on one side but having 3 drivers in that box was a real pain. The top can forces the rest of the air out so hot air does not just simply circulate in the box. The air coming out is not even that warm but yes it will raise the temps a bit.

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

How do you folks achieve this measurement without pain and blindness??? Just curious

On the cxa3050 there is a small copper dot on the corner - just taking reference form the cxa2530's I have here. That dot is where a thermocouple attaches for temp readings.

I'm going to look into getting some of those glasses, great idea.
Let us know how that thermal gun works. I may buy one if its good.

 

[sammyz2646]

Nice Doc! I see the dot there on the side of the CREE chip that I have here. You are super helpful man

 

[sammyz2646]

Got the welding glasses... They are such a help!!!!!! Where have these glasses been my whole growing life???? Got the new IR temp gun too.

It is a challenge to aim it perfectly at the COB while running, to measure the temp. A little bit painful, even using the welding glasses, I must admit. But overall, they are a necessary, no brainer, when using led lights, in my opinion. At a minimum . We only have one pair of eyes

 

[sammyz2646]

SEVEN OUT. In only a couple of weeks. And Shenzen refuses to send me replacements.
This light plant is death for these chips, guaranteed death




I honestly just love what this full spectrum chip does for my garden.. truly amazing. They really produce such lovely results in veg and flower on ALL strains that I have introduced underneath it

My new placement of them on a better heat sink is not failing at all--
In fact they are running very cool. I'll get a temp reading on them with my IR gun. Anyone have any ideas what the running temps should be on this 32 x 3 watt Chinese COB running @ 50 watts?





I like these chips so much from the results I am getting here, that I may also add several of these as well, here and there, by my design shown here, using a better heat sink and using my own "active" cooler