Pastelero
Active member
So how do we go about removing that smell without causing degredation?
winterize
So how do we go about removing that smell without causing degredation?
Wow, lots of info here.
First off, I didn't just rush out and buy this thing.... the long and short of it is that this showed up at my door, and it's up to me to sort it out....... lol?
The couple videos I've seen didn't show anyone winterizing the BHO, but also I can't exactly get everclear so winterizing is an extremely costly option at best.
I also don't really have a filter to winterize anything and I have such a volume of product that I'd likely need to winterize on the scale of about a 5 gallon bucket or more.
but I digress
At this point I have a lot to learn, so getting to know the basics of the machine is going to best suit me right now and then I can worry about improving things.
I don't exactly have anyon who could "train" me perse, so that isn't much of an option, and anyone in my circle who could show me isn't likely to know even half of what I do.....many of these guys are "chimps" just perform steps with no understanding....that's why they dragged me into this lol
one of my biggest concerns here is the smell I keep reading about, as EK calls it "terpschwitz".
I'm seeing people make two passes which to me doesn't exactly seem to be the best way to go about it and would cause more degradation.
So how do we go about removing that smell without causing degredation?
Problem is he's basically a patent troll.
His patents are design patents as opposed to utility patents. Design patents are for the ornamental design of something, like shoes or lingerie and not actual inventions. Useless and impossible to enforce for scientific gear.
Utility patents are used for protecting actual innovation and cover the functional aspects. I guess he hired a good lawyer and found this was a way to "patent" a decades old short path head design.
There is absolutely nothing new in his designs.
RB
The first pass is intended to remove the lower boiling points before you ramp up to the boiling point of the cannabinoids. Terpenes, Alcohol, Water etc, you want to remove it because heat degraded terpenes literally smell like death. You effectively stop the distillation to remove the contaminated glassware and apply a second, clean set according to Summit's instructions. This reduces contaminants in the second "main body" THC pass.
Think of it like boiling water, but you've got water that boils at different temperature(s). Water A boils off at 120c, Water B boils off at 132C, Water C at 160c and so on and so forth right? THC then comes off (depending on your depth of vacuum) in the 220-240C range. As with extraction, you do not want to "co-extract" other boiling points when you get to 240C, if you haven't boiled them off already they will degrade your THC fraction and leave you with a lower volume of THC per gram, causing smell and discoloration issues. You can re-distill to remove them and try to be more precise the second time around, but the idea is that you will properly pre-process your material to remove as many boiling points as possible so that your "Main Body" pass is as clean as possible, reducing further downstream processing.
Can this mean free path be measured in an actively running system?
I load up the flask with some purged bho/shatter......and then what?
It should be needless to say that 358 grams of THCA produces 22.4 liters of CO2 when heated, but I obviously embrace being the retarded kid who says obvious things.
I did not know this, which makes me curious as to why it "should be needless to say"
Is there like a formula or something I should know to figure out how much CO2 would be released, and more importantly, a reason that I should know this?
Is there like a formula or something I should know to figure out how much CO2 would be released, and more importantly, a reason that I should know this?
That was just adding to my post on the last page talking about real short path systems. The really big flask kits for thousand$ I wonder about, with people talking about degradation - are they connected? Maybe it would be best to have just a little to be distilled in a magnetically stirred flask, maybe added from a heated pressure-equalized addition funnel?
It’s important to understand why we do not use a transfer fluid like alcohol anymore, this will create a very violent and unstable foaming and bubbling in the short path apparatus. To do this we typically place a large flask with 1.4 or less filled on a hot plate around 180-200c, this will heat up the large beaker. allow stirring to be slow, and sometimes you need to apply hot air at top of beaker rim to facilitate the removal of solvents that would otherwise cool rapidly, re-condense and drop back into solution. this process leaves the solution very foamy, this is why we blow hot air on the beaker rim to rip out vapor via thermal CFM push with a spark proof heat source. do not allow surface temperature to exceed 125-140c. we typically pull the beaker at right around 130c. As these temps to begin decarboxylation they are in no way whatsoever it is actually decarbing past around 1-3%, this process doesn’t take much time at all. If you load too much fluid in beaker this will rapidly foam and possibly run over the top of the rim. once you have removed all the volatiles, now you should have a properly loaded up flask to begin the process.
oh, the other thing I'm curious about are the stirring mantles. The unit I have is a heated and magnetic stirring mantle but I never received any kind of metal stirring paddle to put in the flask......am I supposed to or does this thing magically stir the liquid somehow?
You want the egg shaped bars for use with RBF's.
The decarboxylation can be done in the RBF, but you want to be sure it's quite decarboxylated like hot and vacuum purged before the strong vacuum and heat stage. Or you might find out what very violent and unstable foaming and bubbling means.
Summit wants their instructions to be indecipherable.