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GAVITA Pro 1000 DE

Lettuce prey. How is the rfi with these ballasts? Could you pare the ballasts with cool tubes and hang the tubes verticaly?

I wonder about the RFI as well. I am currently running CAP nextgen's with a pretty long cord to the reflectors with no RFI issues at all. I would hope that the gavita wouldn't give me or neighbors any problems either..

I want to pull the trigger on upgrading to them but this is one of the few things holding me back
 

SofaKingStupid

Active member
Im not sure yet but I think Imma just stick with mag core's. I woulda really liked to try out some digits tho. Plus I like running cool tubes vertically. 2 stacked on one another. It really spreads the light out nice! Hits the lower flowers as well as the tops.
 

gh0stm0de

Active member
https://youtu.be/Hp7t58Toyfw

Yes, the bulbs themselves must run hot, but AC reflectors are now being produced. Hydrofarm has a aphantom series de reflector for 120on plantlightinghydroponics.com.

The video i posted explains how the AC DE reflectors work without cooling the bulb itself which would interfere with spectrum output.

Very interestingly, it also appears that non gavita bulbs such as ushio can be used with standard ballasts. This should make them far more cost efficient, as DE ballsts typically run double the normal digital price.

Any feedback on galaxy DE ballasts, or AC DE reflectors?


Thanks to all who have pioneered and contributed to this thread; looking forward to going DE in next couple months.
 

progroe

New member
Question about cooling a large Gavita equiped room:

I have 40 Pro 1000e DE complete fixtures ordered and will be running two 40 light rooms flip flopped inside of a warehouse. Is the 4,000btu number accurate with larger rooms? Planning on a full air exchange every 90-120 seconds with a large lung room which will house the air handler for the A/C. That would put my requirements for the fixtures alone at about 13.5t of A/C so we were planning around 20t to account for heat generated from CO2 burners and accessories.

Does that sound about right?
 

McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hey prologue, you might want to also check with the Gavita manufacturer, they maybe able to help by a similar too. Some people advocate 5k or 6k per, but im sure your situation is not the type of room that heuristic is based on. That number works well for small time guys like me. Whoever answers probably needs to your climate info too.
 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
Question about cooling a large Gavita equiped room:

I have 40 Pro 1000e DE complete fixtures ordered and will be running two 40 light rooms flip flopped inside of a warehouse. Is the 4,000btu number accurate with larger rooms? Planning on a full air exchange every 90-120 seconds with a large lung room which will house the air handler for the A/C. That would put my requirements for the fixtures alone at about 13.5t of A/C so we were planning around 20t to account for heat generated from CO2 burners and accessories.

Does that sound about right?

The 4,000 BTU suggestion is proving to be a little short for some growers, but not all of them. It's a minimum suggestion, having more isn't going to hurt. At your scale I'd say overcompensating by 20% would be good.
 

progroe

New member
Fortunately we are at a higher elevation with relatively mild, dry summers and cold winters. I'll check with Gavita, you are right in mentioning that many people are running these in smaller rooms and requiring more cooling. I'm hoping Gavitas numbers are geared more towards our situation.
 
Multi stage a/c's will be your friend in this situation unless you enjoy watching your temp swing as,the a/c cycles. I recommend 5 tons per 12 gavitas with 12 ft. Ceilings to maintain a steady 78 degrees in a well insulated sealed room. A/C will not cycle off the entire day. You will need a humidification system in line with your air handler otherwise your humidity will be in the 20's and your plants will suffer.. Just my experience, but I've never used a lung room so not sure about that one. don't forget to post your build��������
 

progroe

New member
Multi stage a/c's will be your friend in this situation unless you enjoy watching your temp swing as,the a/c cycles. I recommend 5 tons per 12 gavitas with 12 ft. Ceilings to maintain a steady 78 degrees in a well insulated sealed room. A/C will not cycle off the entire day. You will need a humidification system in line with your air handler otherwise your humidity will be in the 20's and your plants will suffer.. Just my experience, but I've never used a lung room so not sure about that one. don't forget to post your build��������

The a/c units I'm looking at are 2-3 stages. Thanks for the tip on humidity. Are you running flip/flop rooms? There should be a decent amount of humidity coming out of the room that is off, wasn't sure if it was enough to keep the room dry or if I would need a dehumidifier.

Your formula would put me at need just over 16.6t for the fixtures themselves. The only other large source of heat would be the co2 burners, I'd imagine the extra ~3.5t could cover that pretty easily.
 
Always multiple rooms on the flip.. like I said I never ran a lung room, so I can not speak from experience. But in theory it sounds plausible. Would be ez enough to add a humidifier into the lung room though. I'm not sure I would run a lung room, to worried about cross contamination of pathogen, bugs, etc. if u had to spray pesticide or fungiside in one room that you were just starting to flower, you would surely contaminant the other room with what ever you were using. This would be disastrous to a room in that is deep in flower. As for burners I moved away from them a long time ago. Gas company would not turn on gas without a walk through so I told them to fuck off and went to the bottle. The results were incredible and noticeable almost immediately. Not sure if the burners are bad in sealed rooms or if their are by products in the gas, or if I'm just overly medicated, but I have never looked back. No heat, no by product, just pure ice cold CO2 plumbed straight into the airhandlers ever since. Sealed rooms need dehumidifiers for the night cycle, but you can collect the run off from the dehumidifier and a/c in a tank and use it to feed the humidification system. Less waste the better, there's a drought over here and water cost a premium
 

progroe

New member
Always multiple rooms on the flip.. like I said I never ran a lung room, so I can not speak from experience. But in theory it sounds plausible. Would be ez enough to add a humidifier into the lung room though. I'm not sure I would run a lung room, to worried about cross contamination of pathogen, bugs, etc. if u had to spray pesticide or fungiside in one room that you were just starting to flower, you would surely contaminant the other room with what ever you were using. This would be disastrous to a room in that is deep in flower. As for burners I moved away from them a long time ago. Gas company would not turn on gas without a walk through so I told them to fuck off and went to the bottle. The results were incredible and noticeable almost immediately. Not sure if the burners are bad in sealed rooms or if their are by products in the gas, or if I'm just overly medicated, but I have never looked back. No heat, no by product, just pure ice cold CO2 plumbed straight into the airhandlers ever since. Sealed rooms need dehumidifiers for the night cycle, but you can collect the run off from the dehumidifier and a/c in a tank and use it to feed the humidification system. Less waste the better, there's a drought over here and water cost a premium

How are your air handlers set up? Do baffles switch them or do you run separate A/C systems for each room? Always had excellent results with propane burners, and we're legal so we'll be getting inspections anyways.

We do recapure and reuse all our water, only way to go in a sealed room. Feels nice not adding new water into the system so frequently.
 
Another tip I'll give u is either have a secondary veg with gavitas, to harden the plants off before flower... ie start at 600 to 750 to 900, etc.... or buy a second EL2 controller for the other room. The el2's programing capabilities are pretty vanilla. The room will mimic the main program on the flip vs. Having the capability to independently program each room. So if u wanted to start the plAnts off at 600 watts, the other room will also be at 600 watts on the flip... it's pretty lame actually!!! I offset rooms by 30 days and this would be retarded... The plants do not take well to the gavitas at 1150 watts unless they have been conditioned to do so, even at 6 ft above the canopy you can expect some transplant shock. We started using an el2 for each room so that we could control ease the plants into the light intensity and later built a proper veg room with gavitas. So we go clone, pre veg, veg, flower (full strength).... a plants entire life cycle is to short to spend one day under stress. As far as I'm concerned... happy plants make happy growers!
 
In your rooms I would just run 2 separate a/c's. I'm assuming it's 3 phase so a 10 ton and a 7.5 ton should be available.. I leave air handlers running 24/7 and let the multi stage condenser cycle as needed with 2 degree deadbands. Generally since I started with the DE fixtures I build rooms in multiples of 12,s.. 24 being my favorite one 10 ton and your done... sometimes we add a inverter style mini split as a back up or night time cooling if we are on the edge of our power supply... Air handlers in the room, all spiral hard ducting... again not familiar with the lung stuff but as of late we add a small inlet can fan, with no exhaust!!!! Experience the benefits of positive presure in the grow room and thank me later!... lol
 
I do 8x20 sections with 8 lights, so I guess 4x5 is what it is, Gavita will tell you to light the room... and I wish I could but you end up with a few more lights then you expect when you have them do you a blue print. I pay for electricity and cant really afford to light walk ways, etc.. When I asked them to just give the perfect room dimensions for 24 they could not do that either.. After a bunch of back and forth with them, they finally gave up on me.. They want you to build the room and they will tell you how to light it, But I wanted to build optimal to their standards which they couldn't figure out.. It was frustrating, but hey its still my favorite light so far so they got you by the skinnies!

Back to your question on zone dampeners, We tried that in the early days with limited success, because the night room constantly needs to cycle through out the night you spen a lot of time with both rooms dampeners open, which kills the capacity for cooling in the day room and thus creates temp swings, but it also carries the co2 from the day room into the night room. And for some reason both rooms would always seem to maintain the same temp regardless of what we would set night temps at. You are talking about spending several hundred thousand dollars on this project, don't start cutting corners on crucial factors such as environment.. Everything is equally important, lights, co2 humidity, day and night settings, etc. You need to treat each environment as its own separate entity so you can control and contain any problems that you will for sure have. getting equipment set up to run double duty or 2 environments is awful nifty, until something fails and the whole project goes in the grinder...

Ill try to figure out how to post a picture of a couple rooms I built for a LA collective, it was the project I learned that gavita missed on the BTU calculation.. We built for 16k rooms and had to remove 4 from each room, crushing!!! But I think they now just have LEDs in that extra row as they don't produce as much heat...
 
A few pics during construction

If you look at the light spread on the wall of the first pic you can see that even on 5' centers they have serious intensity in the overlap! and I'm sure that was on the 600 setting...
 

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