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GAVITA Pro 1000 DE

whazzup

Member
Veteran
Sorry I have been away so long, I just don't have the time at the moment to maintain forum threads.

Indeed the light switch has been identified as a production problem in the first batch. Though it is not functionally interfering with the ballast or any other led codes,it should not have happened. We have a repair solution available for it though, which requires the switch and connected PCB to be exchanged. It is a simple 3min repair and our distributors offer repair services.

It took a bit of time to come up with a good repair solution and coordinate this with our local distributors but it is in place now. New series do not have this problem any more. Though it is annoying indeed that during installation you do not get a good feedback from the ballast as for the status of the control signal, it does not interfere with the operation or performance of the fixture as such and many users choose to just ignore it as they wanted to replace the led lenses anyways.

About those opaque lenses: though we do not believe that the intensity of the signaling led will interfere with photoperiodicity (it is diffuse light at much lower intensities than for example the moon, one signaling light per 1-2 square meters, depending on the wattage of the fixture), we wanted to address the worries of some growers anyway. So though this is a different issue than the incorrect code, in the cases where a grower is worried about this led light an opaque lens solves both issues. In other cases either the code is ignored or we offer to repair the fixture at one of our local service centers at our distributors.

We also include opaque lenses for the led in the standard fixture accessories, but again, that is not related to the led stand-by error code in some of the fixtures of the first batch.
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
For support on Gavita please do not pm me nor contact us on Facebook, that is not very productive: I do not read pm's very often and we have a staff to answer questions on our support system. Simply open a ticket on the Gavita holland website, average response time is less than a working day where it may take a few weeks for me to read my personal messages ;)
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
It is probably somewhere in this thread already and for sure we mention it in the manuals: please burn-in your lamps for the first 100 hours at 100% for the lamps to stabilize. If you don't do that it could result into cycling of the lamp in low or high settings. This is something we recommend for all HPS lamps though.
 
Whazzup! It was a pleasure and honor to meet you at the maximum yield show in Boston!
One of the things I brought up was how the trolls bust your balls and ask the same tired questions they could answer themselves if they just read through the thread. Thank you so much for sharing. On a personal note I really got a kick out of talking to you Europeans.
 
I'm not sure if the published (April, 2014) work by Dr. Nelson and Bugbee has been posted about here?

In case not I think it would be interesting to Gavita users. The research includes lots of radiation flux data for Gavita Pro DE 1000W (reflector & lamp inside integrating sphere), as well as compared to other luminaires like ePapillion and many LED brands (from LED to MH to CMH to T5).

Gavita Pro DE 1000W was the most efficient (as turning joule/s into photosynthetic umol/s) studied HID luminaire (better than ePapillion). It's as efficient as the best-of-breed LED array. Though, there are lots of things to take into consideration when looking at the results - for example, irradiance uniformity at various distances, spectrum, useful life-span, etc.

"LEDs vs. HPS lamps: A reality check"
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=296665

Also, I've seen it written and spoken about before, that around 1,000 PPFD (aka PPF, the true definition of "PAR") is the goal for Cannabis, as it relates to Gavita and ePapillion, and that's very likely not optimal (likely too much irradiance): https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6663651&postcount=14
 
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Chase910

New member
Gavita deficiency or just too much light?

Gavita deficiency or just too much light?

I too have had a struggle to get a nice healthy looking crop under the Gavitas. If I feed more , I see the tips start to burn. Could it be that I have too much light?? Here is my latest video http://youtu.be/ug_D5_9eigo?list=UUCAMsPLHxgQwn0ZNOvADC-Q
I have 10 Gavita Pro 1000 DE lights, second time using Advanced nutrients Connesuer A+B and my room is 14X21.5 feet square. I think I will go back to General Hydroponics as I had better success with that line. I usually PH to around 6.5 and the one time I checked my run off it was 5.4 . It just feels like something is missing in my set up..... Very frustrating but I am new at this and there is a ton to learn. If I had more money to throw at it I would try a couple of the plasma lights to help the spectrum. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
I too have had a struggle to get a nice healthy looking crop under the Gavitas. If I feed more , I see the tips start to burn. Could it be that I have too much light?? Here is my latest video http://youtu.be/ug_D5_9eigo?list=UUCAMsPLHxgQwn0ZNOvADC-Q
I have 10 Gavita Pro 1000 DE lights, second time using Advanced nutrients Connesuer A+B and my room is 14X21.5 feet square. I think I will go back to General Hydroponics as I had better success with that line. I usually PH to around 6.5 and the one time I checked my run off it was 5.4 . It just feels like something is missing in my set up..... Very frustrating but I am new at this and there is a ton to learn. If I had more money to throw at it I would try a couple of the plasma lights to help the spectrum. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you

Looks like your pH is really low if it's coming out 5.4. Raise you pH so that your soil is over 6 pH. My plants would look like that too if my pH was that low. You should be checking your run off more often and making adjustments.
 

Chase910

New member
Looks like your pH is really low if it's coming out 5.4. Raise you pH so that your soil is over 6 pH. My plants would look like that too if my pH was that low. You should be checking your run off more often and making adjustments.

Thank you for the quick reply guys. The pictures look great! I just spent the last hour reading more about PH. Run off PH seems to be a little harder to research. So ( Pardon if it's a dumb question ) if I mix my water and nutes to a PH of 6.5 but the run off is 5.4, I need to be watering at maybe a PH of over 7 to get my soil PH just over the PH 6 hump? Thank you for this tip. It's been a very depressing time for me pulling my hair out trying to figure out the missing link.

Aldo wondering if I should try a few less light or do you guys not see that as a problem. I have 8' ceiling and I keep the lights all the way up giving me usually a 36" space between light and buds.

Thanks again
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Thank you for the quick reply guys. The pictures look great! I just spent the last hour reading more about PH. Run off PH seems to be a little harder to research. So ( Pardon if it's a dumb question ) if I mix my water and nutes to a PH of 6.5 but the run off is 5.4, I need to be watering at maybe a PH of over 7 to get my soil PH just over the PH 6 hump? Thank you for this tip. It's been a very depressing time for me pulling my hair out trying to figure out the missing link.

Aldo wondering if I should try a few less light or do you guys not see that as a problem. I have 8' ceiling and I keep the lights all the way up giving me usually a 36" space between light and buds.

Thanks again
Here's a link to a method called PourThru Program:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/Florex/PourThru Handout 123s.pdf
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Thank you for the quick reply guys. The pictures look great! I just spent the last hour reading more about PH. Run off PH seems to be a little harder to research. So ( Pardon if it's a dumb question ) if I mix my water and nutes to a PH of 6.5 but the run off is 5.4, I need to be watering at maybe a PH of over 7 to get my soil PH just over the PH 6 hump? Thank you for this tip. It's been a very depressing time for me pulling my hair out trying to figure out the missing link.

Aldo wondering if I should try a few less light or do you guys not see that as a problem. I have 8' ceiling and I keep the lights all the way up giving me usually a 36" space between light and buds.

Thanks again

NCSU Pour-Thru method is your friend for measuring pH of your media without needing to take a soil sample.

Watering at a higher pH will have no effect on media pH. Its the alkalinity of your water that will affect media pH.You can water with flowable lime to increase media pH, or supply mostly Nitrate N as your preferred form of N to increase media ph. If you use Agsil 16H, its got a good kick of alkalinity to help increase media pH as well. Potassium carbonate can also be used to increase media pH as well. Agsil 16h, and Nitrate N would be my preferred choices.
 
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Chase910

New member
Thank you very much Dave and Snype! I am currently in harvest of this pathetic crop but will implement this method and try a check on what I have now. My tap water is 6.7 PH and has a PPM of 60. Probably a good time to also go RO water to limit the amount of Alkalinity. Thankful for this forum :)
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Thank you very much Dave and Snype! I am currently in harvest of this pathetic crop but will implement this method and try a check on what I have now. My tap water is 6.7 PH and has a PPM of 60. Probably a good time to also go RO water to limit the amount of Alkalinity. Thankful for this forum :)

You may just want to stick with tap. If you go RO you'll have no alkalinity in your source water which will make it easier for your media pH to shift downwards. If you're trying to maintain closer to 6, you may want to just stick with tap water and the alkalinity its supplying.
 

Kiefer

Member
Hi everyone, just purchased my first gavita pro remote ballast, 1000 watt.. The reason I went with remote was that I have less than ideal vertical space, and am trying to use the light as efficiently as possible by spreading it out more, rather than focusing straight down. So my logic was to get a big type of hood, very similar to agro tech magnun double ended. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar situation, and what the experienced people would recommend?
 

Chase910

New member
Caravaggio, You may be onto something there. Everybody says 36" but I noticed they do better when I have the lights turned down below 1000w at that height.

Dave Coulier, do you think that me mixing ProMix 50/50 with Pearlite may also be a bad thing? Maybe just stick with straight Promix or Sunshine#4

Thank guys! I have to start doing better soon
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Caravaggio, You may be onto something there. Everybody says 36" but I noticed they do better when I have the lights turned down below 1000w at that height.

Dave Coulier, do you think that me mixing ProMix 50/50 with Pearlite may also be a bad thing? Maybe just stick with straight Promix or Sunshine#4

Thank guys! I have to start doing better soon

There's no reason to add more perlite. Perlite is widely used because its cheap, not because its the best choice. I would suggest incorporating 10-15% Calcined Clay, or Calcined DE to your Promix or Sunshine 4. Ive used Axis regular a Calcined DE product, but its cheaper and also available as Optisorb at O'Reillys Autoparts. Also known as Napa 8822 Oil Absorbent, but it must say its from EP minerals not Molan otherwise it may breakdown when wetted.

You can even precharge it with Phosphate and K and itll act as a slow release fertilizer too.
 
Caravaggio, You may be onto something there. Everybody says 36" but I noticed they do better when I have the lights turned down below 1000w at that height.

Dave Coulier, do you think that me mixing ProMix 50/50 with Pearlite may also be a bad thing? Maybe just stick with straight Promix or Sunshine#4

Thank guys! I have to start doing better soon

I currently run a lot of DE setups and my experience has been, run them at 48" at 1000w and use pure coco with no perlite, 1.8ec max and a weekly flush of .4ec.

Recipe for success.
 
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