Not available there either, just the 400/600w. For a while I wondered if these bulbs are just vapor-ware. Whazzup, can you please tell us the 1000w availability? And a spectral graph would be nice too, thanks?
Gavita DigiStar ballasts, 600 & 1,000 watt - COMING SOON!
- Thread starter Stonefree69
- Start date
Thanks. The guys at Rambridge seem confused, as they told me they are available. I also got this answer from Gavita Holland:
"Unfortunately they are not on the market, and the enhanced version will never make the market as 230V 1000W lamps underperform dramatically.
The Pro 1000 SE we are still working on to make it the best lamp on the market and suitable for high frequency ballasts. Unless it performs better than all other lamps we will not bring it to the market. This requires long testing periods (5000 hours at least per batch) so this lamp is not available yet."
lamps are not made for 208V, ballasts are. Gavita are currently the only manufacturer who bring a complete line of 400V professional gear running on 240 for the hobby market (the pro-line). The DigiStar ballasts are available for 240V or 120-240V (depending on the model you choose) so they can run on 208. DigiStars use the standard 600W lamp, suitable for electronic high frequency ballast.
The Gavita 600W enhanced lamp is a lamp for electronic ballasts such as our DigiStar ballasts.
The Gavita Pro 600W EL is a 400V lamp for our pro-line ballasts.
The Gavita 600W enhanced lamp is a lamp for electronic ballasts such as our DigiStar ballasts.
The Gavita Pro 600W EL is a 400V lamp for our pro-line ballasts.
Thanks again. I was referring to the 1000w SE lamps. Which ballast is used for the 1000w Pro EL W? And is the 1000w Enhanced HPS shown on your website the same one referred to in the email I pasted above?
So do I understand you correctly that the DE ballast is 240v only and therefore not compatible with 208v? And where can I find spectral graphs for the Gavita lamps?
lol no no yes no yes 
the 1000W SE lamp we did not bring to the market yet as we are not satisfied with the long term performance. Every test takes a few thousand hours so lamp development can take a while.
The pro-line ballasts are only for 240V and noo, they are not compatible with 208 (which is less than 240-10%)
the 1000W SE lamp we did not bring to the market yet as we are not satisfied with the long term performance. Every test takes a few thousand hours so lamp development can take a while.
The pro-line ballasts are only for 240V and noo, they are not compatible with 208 (which is less than 240-10%)
lol no no yes no yes
the 1000W SE lamp we did not bring to the market yet as we are not satisfied with the long term performance. Every test takes a few thousand hours so lamp development can take a while.
The pro-line ballasts are only for 240V and noo, they are not compatible with 208 (which is less than 240-10%)
Are these suitable for running vertical bare bulb?
Pro no (uses a fixture), Digistar yes. I really like vertical bare bulb cept for maybe 1st 4-6 weeks veg from seed I just use good T5s.
Digistar (and Micromole brand formerly sold in US) are way up there in ballasts with PAR or lux/lumen output using the same bulb compared with just about any other ballast by a good 10% or more. But recently Lumatek has come out with a new ballast with "more lumens" it says and also Hortilux has new ballasts so these newer ballasts coming out look promising for more light output.
ballasts don't output light, lamps do. You can have the sweetest ballast in town, but unless you use a lamp that is optimized for that ballast high light output is not guaranteed. The only way how you can get more output from a ballast is to boost the output power. Many ballast manufacturers do this by 5%, like the old super lumens of the Lumatek, nowadays most 400 and 600W ballasts can be boosted by 10%. High frequency also results in more light as the arc has to time to extinguish.
Actually a good magnetic ballast at the proper voltage will in many cases output more light than an electronic one at 100%, as many magnetic ballasts output about 3-5% more than the nominal value. Of course they use more electricity as well.
Double ended lamps are for horizontal operation only.
Actually a good magnetic ballast at the proper voltage will in many cases output more light than an electronic one at 100%, as many magnetic ballasts output about 3-5% more than the nominal value. Of course they use more electricity as well.
Double ended lamps are for horizontal operation only.
No offense meant, at first thought maybe I was being dense, but the no/yes/no/etc reply doesn't make sense, and you seem to just repeat what you've said without really answering.lol no no yes no yes
the 1000W SE lamp we did not bring to the market yet as we are not satisfied with the long term performance. Every test takes a few thousand hours so lamp development can take a while.
The pro-line ballasts are only for 240V and noo, they are not compatible with 208 (which is less than 240-10%)
Also maybe your company could remove non-existent products from your website after a year or so for less confusion.
Thanks for clarifying the 208v issue, I would still enjoy seeing the spectral graphs since Gavita is so transparent regarding their competitive performance data.
True, but if you test the same bulb with same circumstances in different brand/model ballasts of the same rated wattage there can be different measured outputs.
Interesting about magnetic ballasts, they are usually the big underperformers in measured tests against digital ballasts that I've seen.
you know, the funny thing is that before I worked at Gavita and did tests on a Dutch forum I was given access to their light lab where they tested a Lumatek, BAL en Leuchtek ballast for me. I published those results and fully explained the contents of it, as they were compared to magnetic ballasts that performed really well. I think I posted it here as well. Nobody seems to notice these things.
The chance your electronic ballast is giving you less power to the lamp at 100% than a magnetic ballast at nominal mains voltage is quite big. At a higher electricity use of course but I don't have the feeling that isn't still a big issue in the US with your local electricity prices. We pay twice as much.
The fact that most lamps and electronic ballasts are not sold as a pair adds to this assumption. Some lamps are really better suited for specific types of ballasts and can even break on a mismatch. There are very few lamps really suitable or even designed for high frequency electronic ballasts. And these all have different frequencies with different (acoustic) resonance frequencies which affect different arc tubes.
yeah I know, it's complicated
Good news is that (high frequency) electronic ballasts do compensate the lamp over life better than their magnetic counterparts, the high frequency actually results in a bit higher output, they are more efficient than magnetic ballasts and they provide stable output regardless of the input voltage variations and voltage drops in long lines.
The chance your electronic ballast is giving you less power to the lamp at 100% than a magnetic ballast at nominal mains voltage is quite big. At a higher electricity use of course but I don't have the feeling that isn't still a big issue in the US with your local electricity prices. We pay twice as much.
The fact that most lamps and electronic ballasts are not sold as a pair adds to this assumption. Some lamps are really better suited for specific types of ballasts and can even break on a mismatch. There are very few lamps really suitable or even designed for high frequency electronic ballasts. And these all have different frequencies with different (acoustic) resonance frequencies which affect different arc tubes.
yeah I know, it's complicated
Good news is that (high frequency) electronic ballasts do compensate the lamp over life better than their magnetic counterparts, the high frequency actually results in a bit higher output, they are more efficient than magnetic ballasts and they provide stable output regardless of the input voltage variations and voltage drops in long lines.
you need to understand when to take a
Yes I agree that we could update the site a bit more often.
If you really insist: here they are - have fun with them
- there is not much spectacular to be seen in HPS spectrum. Even if you see the difference, it's hard to predict what effect that is going to have.Attachments
Thank you, this shows exactly what I was curious about.you need to understand when to take a
Yes I agree that we could update the site a bit more often.
If you really insist: here they are - have fun with them
View Image
samba
Active member
You seem to know you shit whazzup!
Could you recommend the best magnetic+buld and electronic+bulp combo in the 1000W range that you can get in Europe. For temperature reasons I would probably HAVE TO aircool them, thinking blockbuster hoods.
I'm personally not that concerned about cost, I just maximum light per lighting fixture.
Could you recommend the best magnetic+buld and electronic+bulp combo in the 1000W range that you can get in Europe. For temperature reasons I would probably HAVE TO aircool them, thinking blockbuster hoods.
I'm personally not that concerned about cost, I just maximum light per lighting fixture.
samba
Active member
Thanks for your reply!
Is this it?
The thing is, I cant get Three-phase electric power /400V (I think they are the same thing?)
I can only get what comes out my normal socket, and that is 230V/16A, so 2*1000W could be run on that.
I rent in a apartment building so I can't install aircon. And the portable AC units are shit so I kind of have to run aircooled hoods.
I really don't want to run 600W, but if you think 1kW@230v are shit, would I be better of just running 600W?
I really really wanna go 1k.
What about this one?
It runs on 230V.
