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Fusarium or verticillium?

TheOutlawTree

Active member
I've used almost everything at this point!

Believe it or not, i am still confident in eliminating it next round. I'm getting closer and closer! I do believe that plants were infected from the pots. I cleaned them very thorough but not good enough apparently.

Next round I'm going to get new pots, new reservoirs, new irrigation lines, new dehumidifers. I will even re-do the panda film in the room, and paint the floors / walls before new film goes up. After all this i'll be sure to heat it up again, but for a longer period and hopefully hotter like 200F. I dont see how this wouldnt work!

My temps and environment in the room is pretty spot on, other than high humidity when lights are off. I keep the temps at 82-84 lights on with co2, and 72 lights off.

There is a little evidence out there that says non-aerated tea's are more effective against fungal and pathogen problems. I really like that EM1 stuff. Its really easy to multiply and next round I'll plan on using that almost every watering as well as foliar spraying it frequently.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
has anyone tried ridomil gold (broad spectrum systemic root pathogen elimination chem) on moms or genetic stock against fusarium. o. i am not advocating putting this on plants that will be consumed at any point but rather for creating a snippable clean mom to start over with.
i use this on all new genetics in quarantine. i then kill the plant and use snips to take in to mom room after its cleared quarantine and been treated t kill everything. the clone from that plant is used as my mom source til it can also be replaced with a further generation.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
has anyone tried ridomil gold (broad spectrum systemic root pathogen elimination chem) on moms or genetic stock against fusarium. o. i am not advocating putting this on plants that will be consumed at any point but rather for creating a snippable clean mom to start over with.
i use this on all new genetics in quarantine. i then kill the plant and use snips to take in to mom room after its cleared quarantine and been treated t kill everything. the clone from that plant is used as my mom source til it can also be replaced with a further generation.

I bought some of that ridomil gold and used it on one of my tables last round which was already infected. I watered it in a couple times at 1ml per 10gallons of water before I flowered the plants. I don't think it was completely effective, but for what its worth- that table stayed green a lot longer than the other 7. The stuff has a strong chemical grapey smell to me, and of course the flowers were not to be smoked, that table was used to make a bunch of canna butter.

While it may be kind of effective, there has not been any research done on ridomil gold being used on smokable crops, so its not something cannabis farmers should be using if they have morals or care about their patients.

The fusarium is serious stuff, Its got me wondering if I'm simply doing something wrong half the time. However, In the past at different spots I've never had any problems having healthy thriving plants up until harvest. I'm looking forward to moving out of this place sometime in the near future, but until I can do that the battle with fusarium will continue.

Another thing I have considered is turning this house into a giant breeding project in search of a pheno / strain that is resistant to the fusarium. Back in the early 1900's Hemp farmers had certain varieties that were resistant to fusarium according to a book I own. The first genetics I would try is a strain that goes by the name of Friesland / Freezeland and it's grown mainly in higher latitudes up in Canada. This strain is very resistant to bud rot / grey mold and can literally handle 2 weeks of cold / rainy weather right at the end of flower before harvest.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

Active member
Veteran
I never suggested using on consumable plants. I use in quarantine. Then snip off new moms. I don't use anything at all on my plants but soluable synthetic nutrients for hydro.
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
TheOutlawTree,

I beat Fusarium Oxysporum with a 30% peroxide spray down of equipment and space (honestly the spores are everywhere so you're just getting the worst of it). Then, I totally changed my gardening techniques. I use prolly 1/8 of the amount of food in my soil and am always diligent to keep my Nitrogen levels as low as possible. I water only enough for the plant to have water. I used to water every 5 days with drenching my soil, and then I also used to water 2x a day to "cycle the nutrients fast" -- smh. Every day or every other day is the safest.
Then you have to work on you inoculants. Trichoderma will eat all the good stuff that will eat Fusarium (yes, trichoderma eats fusarium but not as well as a whole army of different microbes). The easiest, and perhaps best, is Modern Microbes. Serisouly, look at the ingredients -- he tells you everything that's in there (just not the ratios // cfu) and everything thats in there works to make your plant and soil healthy and tough as fuck.

Regarding the anaerobic compost teas - those are very hit and miss and lethal if you dont have a scope and know how to identify the real bad guys. Best to stick the safe guys like Lacto Bacillus and Purple Non-Sulfur Bacteria (PNSB) as these keep anaerobic conditions from allowing anaerobic bacteria to dominate
 

emerica

Member
would this compost tea help against fusarium?
 

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MrBelvedere

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Jesus Mary and Joseph lol stop creating a fertile wet breeding ground for problems and watch all the issues go away. Media 101. Lol
 

xrob415x

Member
I had a similar problem. A J1 cut infected my room with aphids. I nuked the aphids but was still experiencing weird symptoms. Mostly leave curl around week 3-4 of flower. I sent in a coco sample and crown sample into a lab. And it turns out that the aphids brang pythium in with them. Root aphids are know to be a vector for many pathogens fungus disease. Getting lab work is the only way to know 100%. My lab told me the only way they can test for fusarium is a crown sample. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like fusarium wilt to me. that stuff strikes very quickly. I would slam them with a hydrogen dioxide thats what I did but im in coco. I would look into t22 trich. rootshield seems like a good product. Also a product called subdue maxx but that is going nuclear
 

xrob415x

Member
Also I might add a uvc light to your water incase spores are comming from your tap. Do you take plants from outside to inside?
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
Also I might add a uvc light to your water incase spores are comming from your tap. Do you take plants from outside to inside?

Refer back to Mr. BELVEDere's post -- you dont have to worry about spores of any kind if your soil/roots/plants are healthy
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Well.... Its easier said than done in my case. Believe me, I know not to create a wet breeding ground in my pots. You clearly have not had to deal with fusarium oxysporum in a sealed room before if you think its that easy.

I've brought hundreds of healthy plants into the room in the past year, including larger more established plants that were in perfect shape, only to see them start going downhill within a week.

There are all kinds of different fusarium, maybe I've got a real tough strain or something in there.

Like I said earlier, I've had enough and after this round Ill completely gut the room and paint all the walls / surfaces, tables. Theres nothing in the room that could be off gassing but that's what it looks like anytime I try growing plants in there. There was a reason the previous grower / renter up and left without paying rent or even telling the landlord he was leaving.

I've been growing indoors for many years in many different locations and I've never had a problem growing healthy plants until now.
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
Sorry, were you referring to me when you said "you clearly have bit had to deal woth Fusarium Oxysporum"?
If so, Im sorry you missed all the information I've been sharing since 2013 on the topic.
Go look at my pics if my Fusarium Wilt.
Now looks at all my pics since then.... See ANY sign ofFusarium?
Hence my statement - it pretty damned easy.
If you can grow a healthy plant in healthy soil with healthy gardening practices -- no worries; you just have to ensure you minerals are mobile and available.


Or, maybe I never got Fusarium and I just photoshopped thise pics.
Its up to you if you want to learn... but don't assume anythin when people are FREELY giving you information.
I researched My Ass Off to be able to speak about Oxysporum, to be able to defeat Oxysporum.

The person who gets Briad Mites and learns nothing from the attack will say BM are the wirst. The person who git Bm, did his homework and beat the fuckers will be the one saying Bm are easy to beat (easier than Borg)
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
^ I was not referring to you thc, I was talking to mr belvedere.

I appreciate any advice anyone can give on the subject. Like i said before, i am confident I will eliminate the problem after this round with a complete gutting of the room and fresh paint / good long heating of the room. I've learned everything i need about fusarium for the most part... Conclusion is that its a cleanliness problem and extremely important to do a completely thorough cleaning / heating if one runs into the problem. Its easier said than done eliminating the problem in a large 16kw sealed room, if i had 2 lights it would have been gone after the first time.
 

Thcvhunter

Well-known member
Veteran
But that's it -- its not a cleanliness issue.
Spores (of every kind) are everywhere.....
Ok look at an Emergency Room. A new employee from transportation starts working in the er and in a couple weeks he gets super sick. Same thing a few weeks down the road. BUT THE DR WORKS TWENTY FOUR HOur shifts and doesnt get sick. (Sorry typing on phone) why? Because the Dr is healthier with a healthier immune system

I'm in the PNW where mold and PM are rampant andassumed to be unavoidable because spores are everywhere. But I'm among many growers outhere who can throw a plant out back and bever worry about Pm or mold. Why? We never let our soil get Wet and we keep minerals available.
Sterility has nothin to do with it.
The kid who never gets to go play with his friends gets meningitis in college
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Well that theory wouldn't explain why my past grows including beginner grows 10 years ago didn't contract fusarium. If the spores are present in high numbers, in a sealed room- Good luck!

Search google for 'welcome to the fungal, it gets worse here everyday'. That's a pretty scary thread about a guy who knew what he was doing as far as plant health, and was fucked time after time!
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
if you are nuking all microbiology and think your good because your room is sealed ... good luck.

IMHE the best results where gotten when I assured my beneficials where plentiful enough to assure no common pathogen could establish a foothold in my medium and my plant health was optimal so it was not so easily susceptible to disease

plants that are not at optimal health are like people with compromised immune systems, that is, they easily get sick, soil is the same way except it doesn't look sick or get a cough
 

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