Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
$20 for a 3/4 pound...http://www.pestrong.com/567-orthene-97-wp-turf-tree-ornamental-1can-773lb.html
I would suggest 3.3 grams per gallon of water and do at least a 30 minute drench--insuring you cover lip of the container. I do Orthene drenches at every transplant (but not Imid...half-life for Orthene is 4-6 days and Imid is 200-900 days).
And...for guarantee 100% knockdown, add a bit of Riptide (pyrethrin + PBO) a great "oil-less" contact killer; it works on all soil critters including fungus gnats. I add 2.5 ml per gallon to the water/orthene mix.
http://www.pestrong.com/528-riptide-mosquitoes-fogging-concentrate-misting-insecticide-64-oz-half-gallon-.html
BTW...my two orders with Pestrong.com were made on Wednesday and the mailman delivered them Friday/Saturday.
And yes I do include Imid in my rotation...but at the earliest stage: transplant from rootcube to promix container. My rationale is the tiny bit of Imid (and it's 900 day half-life) absorbed by the rootcube is probably not very significant at harvest time (compared to Imid absorbed by soil in 3-5 gallons containers); plus I enjoy the systemic benefits of both Imid & Orthene--without any residual issues (Orthene's tiny half-life in soil).
The secret to overcome pesticide resistance is a proper rotation of pesticide products with different Modes of Action (MoA)--not "doubling" or "using the right the amount of poison".
Link to the MoA authority: http://www.irac-online.org/teams/mode-of-action/
Cheers!
puff adder
Member
Good to know.
I have had good luck using Imid and Azamax, but if possible, I'd prefer to not have to use any nasty stuff. When I heard about MET52 I ordered it immediately, and it does seem to work very well, as in 100% so far.
Even using the Imid and Azamax, I would find a RA flyer or 2 towards the end of runs, but so late that it didn't matter. The Imid and Azamax never worked 100% (but good enough).
I figured I'd just have to live with fighting RA's, and that I'd need to add Imid and other pesticides to my regular schedule, but after 2, almost 3 runs (in 2 different rooms) with MET52, there's not one speck of RA evidence.
I have had good luck using Imid and Azamax, but if possible, I'd prefer to not have to use any nasty stuff. When I heard about MET52 I ordered it immediately, and it does seem to work very well, as in 100% so far.
Even using the Imid and Azamax, I would find a RA flyer or 2 towards the end of runs, but so late that it didn't matter. The Imid and Azamax never worked 100% (but good enough).
I figured I'd just have to live with fighting RA's, and that I'd need to add Imid and other pesticides to my regular schedule, but after 2, almost 3 runs (in 2 different rooms) with MET52, there's not one speck of RA evidence.
puff adder
Member
click the "contact us" and ask about MET52. They'll email back.
Is it OK to post their phone number too? I'll post that to make things easier if it's OK to do so.
Is it OK to post their phone number too? I'll post that to make things easier if it's OK to do so.
I'm not a mod here. You'll have to ask Hammerhead.
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Guest3498
met52, much like imid, didn't work for me - despite applying both correctly and using several other things. They will both knock back the populations, but do not rely on them to rid your garden of root aphids. Anybody want a couple free lbs of met52? lol
I ended up ditching my grow spot for a new one, buying all new equipment, and resourcing my genetics. Was the smartest grow-related thing I've ever done, I'm 3 weeks away from my first aphid-free harvest in over a year and am about to crush it yield wise.
Quite frustrating to see people giving crap advice in this thread, over and over again.
I ended up ditching my grow spot for a new one, buying all new equipment, and resourcing my genetics. Was the smartest grow-related thing I've ever done, I'm 3 weeks away from my first aphid-free harvest in over a year and am about to crush it yield wise.
Quite frustrating to see people giving crap advice in this thread, over and over again.
puff adder
Member
That's too bad. Until I tried MET52, I was using Imid and doing fine, but never really completely getting rid of RA's. The Imid knocked them back enough to still carry on, but the MET52 has worked very well for me.
I didn't think I was going to be able to buy smaller amounts, and have been using it sparingly, less than the recomended amount per gallon of medium, and it has still worked great. Zero root aphids.
I didn't think I was going to be able to buy smaller amounts, and have been using it sparingly, less than the recomended amount per gallon of medium, and it has still worked great. Zero root aphids.
.... 
has anyone tried diatomaceous earth?? you apply the powder to the top soil, and it kills all crawling insects. ive seen some improvements since adding this to the rotation. it seems like it would help prevent flyers.
found some helpful links online.
first off.. know your enemy! - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aphid
aphids are at the bottom of the page. - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig161
from the control section on the wikipedia page
'"Aphids also dislike the smell of garlic, catnip, and mint. If you add those plants next to infested plants, aphids will soon relocate themselves."
- im about to plant some garlic and mint. put them on every corner of the tent.
has anyone tried diatomaceous earth?? you apply the powder to the top soil, and it kills all crawling insects. ive seen some improvements since adding this to the rotation. it seems like it would help prevent flyers.
found some helpful links online.
first off.. know your enemy! - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aphid
aphids are at the bottom of the page. - http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig161
from the control section on the wikipedia page
'"Aphids also dislike the smell of garlic, catnip, and mint. If you add those plants next to infested plants, aphids will soon relocate themselves."
- im about to plant some garlic and mint. put them on every corner of the tent.
whats the earliest you guys have hit clones with bayers?
Im got some that I just put in soil.. i treated all my bigger ladies but now the crawlers are in the soil of my new ladies lookin for roots to eat.. I wanna hit em now with bayers but I fear itll kill them..
what do you guys think?
Im got some that I just put in soil.. i treated all my bigger ladies but now the crawlers are in the soil of my new ladies lookin for roots to eat.. I wanna hit em now with bayers but I fear itll kill them..
what do you guys think?
I'd consider something with a contact killer in it. Maybe triazicide, or the bayer complete. The imadicloprid( the systemic in Bayer) takes sometime to be uptaken by the plant, and while its doing that, aphids could devastate a clone.
Anyone have any clue if RA's find Active hydro to be a hospitable environment? DWC, RDWC, undercurrent?
I am asking because i have them controlled in coco, but i know they are not gone, and i am considering switching over to active hydro, but i know one of my weapons (Met52) against them does not work in that environment. So i only want to switch if it can also help battle the bastards
I am asking because i have them controlled in coco, but i know they are not gone, and i am considering switching over to active hydro, but i know one of my weapons (Met52) against them does not work in that environment. So i only want to switch if it can also help battle the bastards
S
sweetypie
these bastards are badass. im about to soak all my girls in azamax, but they were soaked in bayer a month ago. that knocked most everything out, and they greened up immediately. i was very happy with the results. now im just staying on a steady maintenance program, i never wanna deal with an infestation of these fuckers again.
i've used imidicloprid exactly 3 times.
the first time was after three weeks of veg and with a massive infestation. the bugs vanished almost overnight. i haven't seen them since.
second time was the run right after that one. as a preventative, i hit em as soon as they went into the veg trays. noticed a little yellowing for a couple days after, but not any more than i'd expect from the shock of transplanting them.
third and final time (also preventative), i waited for them to stabilize in veg for a week or so. didn't hurt one bit, but i alos realized that i probably didn't need to be applying this stuff anymore, so i haven't. all good too.
i've gotten them in the aero system i use for veg, so they do not mind straight up hydro. never seen them in my buckets though, but that's because they're gone before i move them.
stop applying granola shit that you need to use perpetually. try merit. use it once and forget it. spend your time dialing shit in instead of fighting bugs again and again.
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GOOROO
they ravaged my undercurrent setup if you can believe that....extremely turbid water and those fuckers were just hanging on like no ones business....RA's that is
In Reply Avalon,
I watched a couple of videos on You Tube with a guy treating a hydro crop for RA's. Before treatment they were hanging out on the side of the container at water level. They were causing damage and multiplying before treatment with SNS. The mofo's don't exempt hydro. Good luck. -granger
I watched a couple of videos on You Tube with a guy treating a hydro crop for RA's. Before treatment they were hanging out on the side of the container at water level. They were causing damage and multiplying before treatment with SNS. The mofo's don't exempt hydro. Good luck. -granger
