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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

Wow, so you used 45ml per gallon. The instructions call for 15 ml per gallon. How did they ook after giving them this amount. Are others using this much bayer complete too?

The plants were fine. No problem whatsoever. They started doing great right after the imid application. Prior to using Imid, i used azamax, and that would really make my plants wilt and plants would not perk up for a good 3 days before recovering. Besides, the azamax didnt work.

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mg75

Member
i am testing Sevin-5 now. seems to be a little more safe as it is the most used pesticide in the world. it supposedly does not bind to fat when consumed by humans. i believe that you can even dust your pets with it to control fleas.
 

dragunn

Member
you can use adonis 2f (21.4% imidacloprid).instead of merit 75(75 % imidacloprid).you can buy a 25+ounce jar for 50.00 or a 2 ounce jar of merit 75 for 50.00.even if you use 3 1/2 times more adonis 2f,its still 3 1/2 times cheaper.have not tried it my self,but they do market them selves a cheaper alternative to merit 75.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
you can use adonis 2f (21.4% imidacloprid).instead of merit 75(75 % imidacloprid).you can buy a 25+ounce jar for 50.00 or a 2 ounce jar of merit 75 for 50.00.even if you use 3 1/2 times more adonis 2f,its still 3 1/2 times cheaper.have not tried it my self,but they do market them selves a cheaper alternative to merit 75.

True...but Merit has only 25% inert (unknown) ingredients...whereas, Adonis 2f has 78.6%....and Adonis 75WSP has 75% (same as Merit).

Inert ingredients....what are they?, oh things like kerosene and other petroleum products. Check out the list (according to EPA)...
http://iaspub.epa.gov/apex/pesticides/f?p=INERTFINDBKUP0126:2:758169465116664::NO:::

Cheers!
 

joe fresh

Active member
Mentor
Veteran
the way i see it...

merit75 is more concentrated, so cheaper to ship, and can be imported to canada....all these other products that have imid in them are not available to import to canada...

i pln to get me some merit75
 

mg75

Member
i believe the use of IMID in my garden made the spider mites more resistant to any treatment. i also believe that the use of sevin-5 in my garden also contributed to an explosion in the spider mite population.
there are some compelling studies to support my claim on the internet. IMID might solve one problem just to create another...
 

dro510

Member
Figured out my "cal-mag/nitrogen" prob. It is root aphids causing tha damage. I think in the Guide to Sick Plants under the cal mag deficiency info u should put a note noting that root aphids can cause phantom cal-mag/nitro deficiencies.

No flyers yet jus tiny white/tan crawlers. Hit em with merit 75 we'll see what happens.

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BluntKilla

New member
I recently dealt with a root aphid infestation with Orthene. It's 97% Acephate. It's a little more hard core than what I usually like to use but after two sprays a week apart I haven't seen any root aphids for a month now. I got what will probably be a lifetime supply from my work (hydro shop) for about $20. It also kills thrips which is another hard one to get rid of. You want to have at least a 40 day window between spray and harvest so I also got Mycotrol in case they come back during bloom. Mycotrol is an organic fungus (organic version of Botanigard) that eats the aphids alive and is very safe to use. The Mycotrol was much more expensive at $80 a liter, but it goes a long ways (I don't remember the application rate right now).
I also used Saturator form Dutch Master as a penetrating surfactant which is very important to use with the Acephate.
 
bluntkilla , did you do a foliar spray of orthene?

do you remember what dosage you used?

I used it as a drench and it is some really nasty smelling stuff.


glad to hear it worked

dro510, sorry to hear about your grow. Thses things can be nasty...im using met52 and so far so good.

Also, in my opinion the tiny white ones that some people have might not even be an aphid but some type of mite. A lot of the people who say they have root aphids show pictures or videos of bugs that are much larger and darker.

Some may be dif stages of life but the ones i had never got any bigger than almost microscopic.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
DO NOT SPRAY THE ORTHENE! Soil drench! The RAs are not on the leaves...they be in the soil. I suggest a 20 minute minimum soak...and no flush (custom Promix soil here), and if you mix Orthene with a contact killer (I use Riptide...water based pyrethrin + PBO) you will be blessed with an immediate knock down.

BTW...a tip that was passed to me that seems to work on soil critters--is to stir up/disturb the top 2" of the soil, the rationale is that is where most soil critters reside. The technique...immediately after removing the container from the drench use a tool to mix up the top 2"--working fast as the Orthene/Riptide mix pools up for a moment or two before draining out.

I tried that technique on some Fungus Gnats that creeped up overnight--wow, gone! So do try messing around with the top 2" of your soil...you might find it beneficial.

Cheers!
 

dork

New member
i think i may have these damn aphids. i for sure have fungus gnats. im having mystery nitrogen / magnesium defs like the pic a couple post back.
im 20 days into flower in a organic soil. is there any organic drench that i could use that really works is not too expensive? just pick up some nematodes from the local shop fo 13 bucks and mosquito dunk bits

thanks in advance dork
 

Merfolk

Member
seems after having root aphids im finding white cotton in my rockwool ( Honeydew? is it fine ? ) and brown stuff over the roots, anyway to get rid of this stuff?
 

Canniwhatsis

High country cat herder
Veteran
seems after having root aphids im finding white cotton in my rockwool ( Honeydew? is it fine ? ) and brown stuff over the roots, anyway to get rid of this stuff?

Ummm,... got any pics?


RA's damage the roots and cause them to die off and rot.
 
Use some fresh worm castings on the soil.. root aphids will be gone in a few days.


Does this really work? I have heard someone say that before, but it sounded to good to be true.

I have seen a lot of improvement when using myco/bacteria inoculants and compost tea. The worm castings would have the microbial live that is needed to cure a root disease.

Ive always thought maybe an organic grow would be the answer to getting rid of root aphids, but i have always been to sketched out to bring organic soil into my room because most are known to come with fungus knats and root aphids.

Im using de-chlorimine tablets, GH subculture B, roots excelurator, and met52. My plants seem to be loving it.

We'll see....
 
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