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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

blahman

Member
These little F*$%@# just finished my first coco grow, yield was a bit low 1.2lb per 1kw. I was blaming it on Sensi A&B.... Just getting ready to re-pot my next round and give it another go. Well I was taking a break from picking roots from the coco(I was planning on re-using it) and I noticed something crawling on my hand. The more I looked I noticed hundreds of these little buggers on my arm, looked at the soil and holy crap!!!!

Took a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogst9TR7srg

I'm up in Canada I thought these buggers were more of a southern issue. I purchased some merit 75 a year ago or so just in case I ever ran into them. Guess I will be dusting it off.

Now... the used coco is in the same room as my new 12" plants. I was thinking about hammering all the plants and the old coco with merit 75 and see how I make out before tossing out all the used coco. This is $700 worth of coco here.... i'd like to save it if possible.
 

justalilrowdy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
all these chemical cures just make your plants sick and weaker. Go back to organics. Worm castings alone completely solved my root aphid issue.
Worm compost can suppress plant disease, regulate nutrients, research finds December 22, 2011 By Aaron Munzer Research:
Published on 12-23-2011 02:17
Research: Worm compost can suppress plant disease!
Organic growers could soon have another weapon in their arsenal, courtesy of the humble worm.
Cornell researchers have found that vermicompost -- the product if composting using various species of worms -- is not only an excellent fertilizer, but could also help prevent a pathogen that has been a scourge to greenhouse growers. By teaming up with a New York composting business, they believe they have found an organic way to raise healthier plants with less environmental impact.
Building on previous research conducted by Professor Eric Nelson's research group in the Department of Plant Pathology and Plant-Microbe Biology, Ph.D. student Allison Jack has shown that beneficial microbes in vermicompost can colonize a seed's surface and protect it from infection by releasing a substance that interferes with the chemical signaling between the host and the pathogen.
"We know the microbes are actually adding something the zoospores don't like," Jack said. "Now we just have to find out what it is."
Eric Carr, a master's student in Nelson's lab, is focusing on the suppressive qualities of vermicompost on a different stage of the life cycle of Pythium aphanidermatum, a pathogen whose mobile spores infect seedlings, causing them to "damp off," or wither, shortly after germination. The research, he said, helps contribute to opportunities to turn waste products like manure into important disease-suppressive soil amendments.
"At some point in our lives, we're going to have to start using these types of natural resources and use them more efficiently; when that times comes, we'll have a better idea of how it works," Carr said.
Certain composts can suppress diseases, research has shown, but what is still unknown is which of the thousands of undescribed microbes in healthy compost are responsible for suppressing which diseases.
Research: Worm compost can suppress plant disease!
Bacteria from vermicompost extract grows on a petri dish.
Another challenge in identifying suppressors and harnessing them is the variability of different composts.
To overcome this issue, Jack has teamed up with Tom Herlihy, who produces 2.5 million pounds of vermicompost a year through his Avon, N.Y., company, Worm Power. Because his dairy manure feedstock is regular and the process controlled, Herlihy's end product is highly consistent, a quality that's good for growers and for scientists like Jack.
Most seeds are treated in this country with chemicals," Herlihy said. "If we know our vermicompost can suppress Pythium, wouldn't it be nice if we could come up with a vermicompost-based solution, rather than a chemical one?"
There could also be economic benefit if the Environmental Protection Agency, for example, allows Herlihy to market his product as a biopesticide.
A related project at Cornell focuses on vermicompost's organic fertilizing capability. Horticulture assistant professor Neil Mattson was recently awarded a $203,000 grant from the U.S. Department of Agriculture to study how organic growers can incorporate vermicompost into their potting mixes for better nutrient management. The three-year research project will begin this spring.
"What a lot of these growers tell us is fertility issues are the hardest to solve organically," Mattson said. "This is a community that is doing a lot of great things. We want to make their production systems even more profitable. We want to promote production systems that promote healthy environments."
Provided by Cornell University
 

RockyMountainHi

I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with th
Veteran
, yield was a bit low 1.2lb per 1kw. I was blaming it on Sensi A&B,,,,,
...before tossing out all the used coco. This is $700 worth of coco here.... i'd like to save it if possible.

your worried about $700!!! silly boy! You lost at least that much last harvest - right??? so bugs can have a nice place to live at your expense.

Prioritys.

Boil it, steam it or microwave.

I've concidered Carbon Monoxide, but that's if-E with a big E.

Also - drowning is a possibility, in the search for non chemical killers - but heat always works
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
i hit some of my worst, most droopy yellowed plants with this special mix...3 days after i watered with a merit/203 flush...
10ml bayer
10ml liquid karma
10ml big bloom
3ml calmag
1 tbs great white
1/2oz h202 30%

plants did a huge turnaround! getting color back, no more drooping, real happy so far.


also havent seen a new aphid caught in the traps in several days...got my DE Layered real thick at the tops.
 
S

Scrappy-doo

Do these guys ever spend time on the leaves? I got what looks identical the flyers on/around a houseplant, and when I look real close I can see what looks exactly like those pale beatles on the leaves. They're real slow moving. Not sure if it's aphids or something else.
 
G

Guywithoutajeep

The coco goes in the oven now. It sucks to have this unnecessary step, but it has to be dealt with.
 

dr.roots

Member
Here is what we believe are the "Micro Bots", they are not aphids, their mites. I just don't know what kind of mite...

It has 8 legs, and aphids seem to have 6.

Please correct me if im wrong:


Video:

[YOUTUBEIF]LzBj8VzAPmY[/YOUTUBEIF]


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pinecone

Sativa Tamer
Veteran
Hypoaspis miles is a mite that is used as a biological pest control. They probably eat root aphids.
___________

A related question - has anyone that has struggled with root aphids experimented with an approach of introducing a bunch of bugs (predators and prey) through the introduction of forest duff, leaf mulch, and the like? The chemicals don't seem to be working for a great many growers.

Pine
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
As we know, Evergreen is an an oil based pyrethrin/PBO insecticide 6%/60%--and doing soil/root drenches with certain oils could have a negative impact on the soil/roots. I discovered a "water based" product, Riptide, made by the same folks that make Evergreen.

Riptide ULV (for ultra low velocity mosquito sprayer/mister) is a water based pryrethrin/PBO with a slightly reduced amount 5%/25%, but at half the price! $103 for 64 ounces.

Riptide.jpg


At 5ml per gallon--it is a very good complement to one's routine; I now combine Riptide with my Acephate rootball drench solution--and each plant is drenched for 15 minutes a few days before they are transplanted.

http://mgk.com/Misting/Riptide%20Waterbased%20Pyrethrin%20ULV.aspx

"Riptide® Waterbased Pyrethrin ULV is an optimized formulation, specially designed to deliver fast knockdown and kill of mosquitoes, when used in residential misting systems. Riptide effectively controls mosquitoes and other flying insects, and is easy on ornamental and landscape plants."

Ordered Wednesday and the mailman delivered it Friday, no shipping, no sales tax.
http://www.pestrong.com/528-riptide-mosquitoes-fogging-concentrate-misting-insecticide-64-oz-half-gallon-.html

Cheers!
 

shmalphy

Member
Veteran
I have serious concerns about using anything that is not labeled for use on food crops, is Riptide labeled as such, or only for landscape and ornamentals?
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
I have serious concerns about using anything that is not labeled for use on food crops, is Riptide labeled as such, or only for landscape and ornamentals?

Exactly! According to MGK, "it can be used as a ULV or space spray, contact spray, around home foundations, dried fruit product storage areas, stored food areas, on peanuts, nuts, beans, seeds in bulk, bags or other packaging, in federally inspected meat and poultry plants, stored grains, on animals, treatment of outdoor annoyance pests and more." ...including fruit trees.

From the label:

ON PEANUTS, NUTS (ALMONDS AND WALNUTS), BEANS (INCLUDING COCOA),
SEEDS (BIRDSEED MIXTURES, COTTONSEED AND FLAXSEED) AND COPRA IN BULK,
BAGS OR OTHER PACKAGING: For the control of accessible stages of: Almond Moths,
Angoumois Grain Moths, Ants, Cadelles, Cereal Beetles, Cheese Mites, Cheese Skippers,
Chocolate Moths, Cigarette Beetles, Cockroaches, Confused Flour Beetles, Crickets, Dark
Mealworms, Drugstore Beetles, Earwigs, Firebrats, Flies, Fruit Flies, Fungus Gnats, Grain Mites,
Granary Weevils, Hide Beetles, Indian Meal Moths, Mediterranean Flour Moths, Mosquitoes,
Red Flour Beetles, Rice Weevils, Saw-toothed Grain Beetles, Silverfish, Small Flying Moths,
Spiders, Spider Beetles, Yellow Mealworms, Dried Fruit Beetles, Warehouse Beetles, Rusty
Grain Beetles, Lesser Grain Beetles, Coffee Bean Weevils, Khapra Beetles and other listed
insects, apply to the surface of stored or bagged products at the rate of 1/4 fluid ounce per
1,000 square feet. Also spray walls, floors and surfaces of bins, storage and handling areas
thoroughly, being especially careful to treat cracks, crevices and similar hiding places. Then
apply as a space spray by directing the spray toward the ceiling and upper corners of the area
and behind any obstructions. Apply at the rate of 1 fluid ounce per 1,000 cubic feet of room
space.
Vacate treated area and ventilate before re-entry.

Funny thing, is....Riptide it is not really an "restricted insecticide" requiring a special license/permit, rather it is a "ULV misting agent". Weird, especially at these high concentrations; but at half the price...wtf?
 

zor

Active member
Just ordered a bunch of MET52. If it does what they claim it does, this should be good!

i have some met running now too with a couple of fresh test clones in coco.

Unfortunately, it seems that it has been working for some people while not working for others.
 
anyone know if met52 can be used in hydroton?

I just switched over to an ebb and grow system. Maybe I can use coco in the buckets with smartpots....any ideas?

I have some met52 on the way that will be used when i start over from seed. My grow has been dormant for 3 weeks so far. Completely disinfected, painted and sealed new ceilings and walls and floors.

I am considering using some type of beneficial tea as well. Some people say there plants will stay healthy even with root aphids when using proper organic methods. Only problem is it seems the RAs love the organic soil mixes. Maybe I will start with sterile soil and make my own mix.
 

zor

Active member
Maybe I will start with sterile soil and make my own mix.

i think this would be best if you wanna use the met and don't want to use coco. the store bought mixes have given me trouble and others from what ive read. I have not heard yet of anyone getting any aphids from a peat mix like sunshine or promix.
 

pinecone

Sativa Tamer
Veteran
Only problem is it seems the RAs love the organic soil mixes. Maybe I will start with sterile soil and make my own mix.

Really? I spend most of my time here in the organic soil forum and have not seen one case of root aphids reported there, nor (with the exception of Sea Maiden who got RAs in perlite hempy buckets) have I seen any organic soil growers posting in the root aphid threads. I'm frankly pretty skeptical that these things are coming on in soil products. If so, why doesn't everyone have them?

In any event I don't think you want to start with sterile soil as many of your defenses against RAs involve nematodes and chitin eating bacteria, which would be killed by sterilization. I think you would want to incorporate neem seed meal and crustacean meal into your soil mix.

Pine
 
There's a type of aphid called "ant farm aphid" and they have a symbiotic relationship with ants. The ants place them on plants, and tap their backs and they secrete a sweet fluid that ants use to feed their young and themselves.

I also read that ants "farm" other varieties of aphids as well.

One of my rooms always has an ant or 2 running around, and I really think that my RA issues are literally brought in by the ants. I get them every time, like clockwork.

Imid has helped keep things under control enough to still do well, but the RA's are never completely gone, towards the end of runs I always find a flyer or 2.

I just potted up using the MET52 that I bought (after cleaning the room thoroughly and placing ant stakes all around) and I'll report back with the results.
 

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