Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[drymouth]

Good looking out, retro I just got finished gooping up the brims and bases of my pots 50 7 gallon pots! so i decided to go with 15ml a gallon (the label didn't specife for pots) I drenched the first few dry pots, the little fuckers were trying to escape shit looks discusting! I'm going to wait till the others dry out to almost wilt status!

Note: the advice on the first page sugest Tree&shrub if you weren't to fare along 21-41 days. most might get confused with that as i did. I knew i didn't sound right thats why I asked.

Note: It should say, if your in flower and are 21 - 41 days from harvest then bayer citrus&fruit should be used "not tree&shrub" if it did state that then I apparently can't read! and my bad. peace.

 

[compost]

I noticed some crawlers in my soil last night and without magnification I could see they looked like little crabs. I haven't seen any fliers but I am gonna hit them with bayer citrus tonight. I am with you drymouth there doesn't seem to be good directions on a dose for potted plants.

 

[SexInTheCity]

What imid products are in Canada?????....I'm pretty sure i have root aphids, roots turning brown in COCO and weird tiny small white lines on squigly lines on leafs and what look like nute defs....does this sound like 'em?

 

[RetroGrow]

What imid products are in Canada?????....I'm pretty sure i have root aphids, roots turning brown in COCO and weird tiny small white lines on squigly lines on leafs and what look like nute defs....does this sound like 'em?

You can tell if you have them by examining the roots with a loupe. They are difficult to see. If you have them, you will definitely see movement on your roots if you are patient and use a magnifier.

 

[SexInTheCity]

I looked everywhere for bayers products in Canada...no places seem to carry it, are there IMID containing products in Canada...?

 

[Relentless]

i used 6tsp per gallon.. 3 treatments, 5 days apart.
bayers complete insect..

 

[RetroGrow]

One tablespoon per gallon of water as a drench works.
Only one application is necessary.
Not a contact killer.
Takes a bit for all of them to die, but they will die.

 

[Scotsman]

Fugus gnats...

Sinse I grow in coco these little buggers are around most of the times,altho harmless unless theres a real bad amount of them,their still a bloody nusience.

Ive tried gnatoff with little sucsess and Im now waiting on some nilnat,along side this Ive got yellow sticky traps to catch the kamakazi adults.

Now only a week ago whilst having a read up on these,I come across an article saying that simply placing a slice of potatoe on where you thing the gnats larve are will help reduce numbers as the gnats larve apparently like to much on potatoes.

Soo I though why not give it go,seems nice and simple and cheap aswell. I placed one slice on top of every pot along side a sticky trap. Now when I water (48 hours) I just replace the potatoe slice,and only yesterday I noticed one single gnat attached to a yellow trap,so this might be the solution Ive been looking for,give it a try folks would love to hear how others get on with their potatoes.

Ive still got yellow stickys for the wayward adults and will add nilnat when it arrives,but so far its a thumbs up from me.

Goodluck people.

Scotsman.

 

[RetroGrow]

Fugus gnats...

Sinse I grow in coco these little buggers are around most of the times,altho harmless unless theres a real bad amount of them,their still a bloody nusience.

Fungus gnats are NOT harmless.
They are disease vectors.

 

[Scotsman]

Ok hands up! Perhaps Ive worded this wrong..

What I mean is the adults are more of a nuicence and dont cause that much damage,but can ge stuck to your buds,and noone wants to be smoking them do they now!

I understand the "larve" can attack and feed on small roots that can lead to infections,thats what i was getting at when I said unless theres "loads" of them,the sticky traps seem to take care of the airborn gnats,is the larve I want to attack without using any chemicals if possible and the slice of potatoe seems so far to be doing just that.

Appoligess for any confucions folks!

Scotsman.

 

[puff adder]

[q









You make it sound like the Complete and the Citrus Bayers have a different kind of Imid. If you're worried, use the Tree and Shrub at 1/2 strength.

Personally, I'd be more worried about the Cyfluthrin in the Complete. That stuff is more Nasty IMO.

Imid is used on Tobacco, and is the same ingrediant in Advantage, the stuff you put directly on your pets. It's bad, but not that bad, and plus, it's gone by the time you harvest if used correctly in veg or right at the flip.

The Tree and Shrub has the most Imid, IMO why not save some money and just use that.




uote=RetroGrow;4348114]

Use Bayer Advanced Or Bayer Citrus. I cannot understand why people continue to spread disinformation about this subject. Imid is the only thing that will kill them permanently with a single application. You do not want to use Tree & Shrub because it is for trees and shrubs, and will linger longer in your medium, especially soil. There is a reason why they made Advanced and citrus. It is for flowering, fruiting plants. Can be safely used on food crops, anywhere from 7-21 days before consumption, depending on the fruit. Read the label. You are safe to use it now. Only one application is needed. Takes a while for all of them to die, as it's systemic, and they die after ingesting it. Do not use Raid, or other products, as they will not eradicate them completely. I prefer the Bayer Advanced, as it also contains a contact killer which will kill fungus gnats and other pests. All of this has been explained earlier in the thread, but the thread has become so big that often people don't read from the beginning, and there has been a lot of disinformation lately.
If your plants are drinking, it will be no problem to kill them with a single application.

[/quote]

 

[beta]

.

 

[EclipseFour20]

Just saying...if the wings on the flyers are longer than it's body, odds are you have RAs. Use yellow cards to verify.

Also, you must rotate your arsenal to win the battle--hitting pests with the same pesticide (Imid) at every interval will result in a population of pests that are "resistant". You must use rotate your poisons with different "modes of action". Besides, Imid is a systemic--repeated doses will only increase the residual build up of Imid in the plant...and it is especially stupid to make repeated doses of Imid in a soil/soil-less medium--why? Half life for Imid is over 900 days in soil--but a whole lot less in hydro (where repeated doses might make some sense).

Botanigard rootball soak is 100% successful...and can be done days before harvest.

 

[michigan.mmma]

i have had this problem with phantom magnesium deficiency, slow and stretched growth during flowering, leaf tips browning during flowering not from nutrient burn, and 2-3 weeks after under hps lights, the leaves brown out and are paper thin and growth comes to a halt.

long story short - i got clones infested with spider mites, thrips, and i guess these root aphids almost a year ago. the thrips and mites were easily offed but i never knew i had these until a few months ago. i just found a few threads about it.

i am using 5 gal buckets DWC 4 plants flowering (2@2 weeks, 2 @ 1 week) and have seen the small white bugs like in the first page of the Fungus Gnat or RA thread on the basket and around the inside rim of the buckets. they look like a speck that barely moves but can be seen under the 30X loupe. 400MH and 2-600HPS in flowering room, CO2, good temps/humidity, enviro controller, using lucas formula now to keep it simple.

I have been trying to read both of these RA threads but they are huge and i wanted to act ASAP so i got the bayer tree & shrub at Home Depot. Filled the buckets to the top and made sure hydroton was soaked also for 30 mins. Plain water and bayer @ 2.5 ml/Gal.

when i emptied the buckets it was very hard to tell if all the specks i saw in the bucket were dead aphids. I hope they were. But there were several small worm like larvae in thought were gnat larvae. there are things flying around and i have some on a yellow sticky card i can take a pic of but i thought they were gnats.

i treated these 4 plants last night then threw that water out, cleaned buckets and added fresh nutes. today when i got home from work, there were some aphids crawling in the buckets. the plants do look a bit better than yesterday however.

i have not read all the info on this as of yet but i am getting through it. i was hoping someone could tell me if i applied this properly, do i need to use any other product on these, how long before the RA are gone? from what i have read so far, i am under the impression its a one time application but they dont die right away.

any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[RetroGrow]

Imid is not a contact killer. Once the plants absorb it, and the RAs eat, they will die. It's not instantaneous, but they will all be dead and their life cycle broken, with just a single drench. I have been using imid for 35 years on my dogs. I got it from my vet many years ago, before it was a commercial product, and it is the only thing that will wipe out a flea infestation. It was a liquid then, called "spot on", and just a couple drops on the dogs skin gets absorbed, and when the fleas eat, they are poisoned. It's now sold in pill form, and if you have more than one dog, you can give it to just one, and all fleas will be wiped out, on all the dogs and in the house and yard. That's how I know it's safe. It's also approved for food products, so it's considered completely safe.
There's been a lot of disinformation on this, so I wanted to straighten that out.
However, that being said, you want to use the least amount that will do the job, and that's why I recommend Advance or Citrus. Just a lower concentration, so it lingers in your medium for a shorter time. This is especially true for those using soil. You can use it in early flower if necessary, however if you have RAs, you probably had them in veg, but just didn't notice until the problem got worse. So it's a good idea to check your roots periodically. They can be very small and require a loupe to see. Be patient, and eventually see one or two moving. I use an LED flashlight to see them. It helps. I have never gotten them back again after that one application, but I always use new medium now in my grows, so as not to pass on any pests that might have been present.

 

[PuReKnOwLeDgE]

Just discovered root aphids are back for a visit, no fear bayer advanced is here! Here is the walking dead taken tonight:

 

[RetroGrow]

Good pictures. I really hate those bastids....caused me a lot of trouble before I knew what they were or how to treat....

 

[hazefest]

Been wanting to get some of that Bayer Advanced over to Europe for a while now, sound like its perfect for the job.....already got spinosad, forbid, floramite and eagle20 so once i have the Bayer Advanced i got the full arsenal to protect the garden.....an expensive line-up but worth every penny for the protection and peace of mind.
Great pics, always been so hard to determine a problem without good reference pics to look at.
Peace

Just discovered root aphids are back for a visit, no fear bayer advanced is here! Here is the walking dead taken tonight:

 

[michigan.mmma]

Imid is not a contact killer. Once the plants absorb it, and the RAs eat, they will die. It's not instantaneous, but they will all be dead and their life cycle broken, with just a single drench. I have been using imid for 35 years on my dogs. I got it from my vet many years ago, before it was a commercial product, and it is the only thing that will wipe out a flea infestation. It was a liquid then, called "spot on", and just a couple drops on the dogs skin gets absorbed, and when the fleas eat, they are poisoned. It's now sold in pill form, and if you have more than one dog, you can give it to just one, and all fleas will be wiped out, on all the dogs and in the house and yard. That's how I know it's safe. It's also approved for food products, so it's considered completely safe.
There's been a lot of disinformation on this, so I wanted to straighten that out.
However, that being said, you want to use the least amount that will do the job, and that's why I recommend Advance or Citrus. Just a lower concentration, so it lingers in your medium for a shorter time. This is especially true for those using soil. You can use it in early flower if necessary, however if you have RAs, you probably had them in veg, but just didn't notice until the problem got worse. So it's a good idea to check your roots periodically. They can be very small and require a loupe to see. Be patient, and eventually see one or two moving. I use an LED flashlight to see them. It helps. I have never gotten them back again after that one application, but I always use new medium now in my grows, so as not to pass on any pests that might have been present.

Thanks for the info. I used the tree and shrub since its DWC and i could change the water/nutes after the 30 min soak.

I also treated 2 plants in DWC in Veg and two mothers in 6" rockwool cubes in the same manner. Do you think 30mins is sufficient time? and when would you expect to find no RAs after treatment?

 

[RetroGrow]

I am not sure about 30 minutes, and am no expert on DWC. The plants have to drink the solution. I used it in coco, and it's just a drench, replacing their normal watering, so it's in there for days as the plants absorb it. In coco, all RAs were dead in about 5-7 days. 30 minutes does not sound like much time for plants to drink sufficiently. In coco, I waited until medium was dry and plants were thirsty. Maybe someone else who uses this system can chime in here, but 30 minutes does not sound like much if the plants were already hydrated. They might not absorb sufficient amount in that time frame. I would keep it in the system longer, but like I said, I have no experience in that system.