What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

davidyhan

Member
Hi guys I have a quick question.. I caught couple fungus gnats on my sticky traps so out of precaution I check the top of my rock wools and I find some crawlers near the stem. I use floraflex caps so most of my rock wools are covered Exept the middle around the stems. To my understanding fungus gnats don’t have crawlers that look like mites. So does this mean I have root aphids? I can’t provide any pictures at the moment but they are like little tiny white mite looking things on top of the Rockwool especially where the green algae is. And I also see some larvae with black tip at the end.
 

davidyhan

Member
I’ve had ra in the past so I know for sure the flyers that were caught on my traps are def fungus gnAts. And also I’ve been using og biowar so I didn’t think I would have any problems. I’ve been giving about a cup of full strength tea once a week to each Rockwools. (Hugo’s) so this time I dunked the entired Rockwool in the full strength og biowar and now I don’t see any more crawlers or larvaes. Does anyone know if og biowar tea full strength kills eggs too? And also do ra ever get immune to og biowar teas? I am planning another full Hugo dunk in about three days followed by Bayer tree and shrub 10ml/g dunk in another 3 days.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
its a fungus gnat. I like gnatrol, but mosquito dunks work too. once or twice a month as a preventative, or twice a week to treat an infestation.

Gnatrol is pro-grade fungus gnat control. In soil, a single application at 1 tbsp/gal of water beats them down, hard. I just thoroughly wet the soil with the solution. I like to mix it with ewc tea. Per the instructions & my personal experience 3 applications a week apart will deal with even a very heavy infestation.

I'll never eliminate them from my organic soil grow because they ride in with worm casting & compost. I let them get out of hand once a couple of years ago & won't let that happen again with gnatrol on hand.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Your Bayer Tree & Shrub dunk is serious overkill. You'll be smoking imid. Gnatrol, per Jhhnn, will do the job. Good luck. -granger
 

davidyhan

Member
I forgot to mention I’m still in veg. About 2 weeks from flip. I’ve used it in the past but after reading about gnatrol I am thinking gnatrol is way to go. Just read few hours of this thread and I think I just might have soil mites. I wish I took some pictures before my initial og biowar dunk..
 

davidyhan

Member
Hmm I’m trying to post pictures and it’s not working. I’ve been using icmag for info for years and I never posted anything before.
 
can someone please confirm whether this is a Winged Root Aphid or a Fungus Gnat for me please??

EbqtnRy.jpg
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
It's really easy to find out if bugs are fungus gnats. Mix gnatrol at 1 tablespoon/ gallon, thoroughly wet the top of the soil. Wait 10 days. If that doesn't make them really, really scarce then it's not fungus gnats.

They're endemic to my grow because they come in on homemade compost & some worm castings. I'll never get rid of them entirely but just that annihilates all but a few. I let them get away from me once a few years back & even went thru the once a week for 3 weeks routine to bring them under control but they still came back eventually. When I start to see more than a few on my fly strips I just hit 'em once & it's over for months.

Gnatrol just works.
 
Anyone used gnat nix as a preventative in fabric pots?

Yes... I been using about 1.5" GnatNix on top of coco, in smartpots for over a year.

I use compressed brick coco that i hydrate with 140°F water to eliminate any freeloaders.

For me, it is just another form of control. It does not solve an infestation. The gnats actually hatch in the GnatNix layer. However, he GnatNix layer does definitely slow the gnats down.

Currently, my anti-gnat regimen is to use the layer of gnatnix. And, also spray the surface with a spray bottle filled with 11 ml/l Azamax/water a couple times a week. As mentioned, this does not eliminate my gnat tribe... just keeps them under control.
 

islandgrower721

New member
https://youtu.be/W2uqWaH5UPA
Here is a video of some I have a problem with . I think they are root aphids . I have controlled them with a bleach solution. Recommended during veg.
 

Hashishh

Member
Been battling both in my veggie garden. I ended up using diluted hydrogen peroxide. Poured some in the soil and used the rest as a foliar spray. Killed most on contact and the rest fell to the soil. Ended up dusting the soil with DE afterwards. Should take care of them. Gonna use the water, soap and cayenne mix from here on out to control them better. Can't believe how bad our infestation got.

At this point in worried of seeing anything come up in my tent.
 

frostytrees

New member
First Post ever, but ive read this thread at least a half dozen times, many more just like it

To F. Dupp, why did you switch from Evergreen 60-6 to the Riptide? Besides it being water based, wouldnt you think that 60% PBO is what made it a superior product? That synergistic effect of PBOs is what makes them great, and perhaps bad at the same time. Politics at this point.

Ive been fighting these fuckers for a while now: IMID in veg, soon to add Kontos, then alternating contact killers like Spectracide. But most importantly, that Evergreen 60-6. Least harmful to plant, good for everyday use if need be.

Do you find Riptide just as beneficial as the Evergreen? I may have missed a post, but it seems like you had more success some years ago with the Evergreen.

I appreciate the help of evryone in this thread.

Even Retro.
 
Top