Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[Granger2]

Your Sunshine could have been infested. All things are possible. Could be from the Sunshine plant, the warehouse of any middle man, the store where you bought it. First time I ever saw an RA was in a pot of Ocean Forest Happy Frog.

You may not see an RA on foliage. Root dwelling. Try the potato test. One inch slices of raw potato laid on surface of medium. Check underside daily for 10 days. They will be attracted to the potato if they're there. Good luck. -granger

 

[Granger2]

InGhostgrower,
The Bayer may do the job or maybe not. I wouldn't count on not smoking Imid though. Good luck. -granger

 

[sonofthebong420]

Thanks for the potato test sugestion Granger2 ! Just laid some pieces in the veg e bloom tents.
I haven't really seen much movement after i hit them a week ago with a local insecticide based on cypermethrin ( did i spell that right ? ) .

I did find this on on the sand i laid over the top of my soil, it was pretty weak before being finished off.

This makes me sure i have them besides the symptoms on the plants, but my veg seems to be going on very fine lately and my newer plants on bloom have a pretty green to them, i'll be using the potato test + inspection of soil after harvesting some of the older clones this weekend.
I already inspected a great deal of soil from the veg in the microscope and still haven't seen any movement on the soil ....
Ordered some imid but i'm hoping i don't have to use it.

 

[InGhostgrower]

InGhostgrower,
The Bayer may do the job or maybe not. I wouldn't count on not smoking Imid though. Good luck. -granger

I was thinking that but since everything that I'm treating are mothers and I will still need to clone that exposure would be minimal? maybe not but I'm hopeful.

 

[Granger2]

If you're taking small cuttings off a treated mother, and growing them into a large plant, you'll probably have a minuscule amount in the mature plant. -granger

 

[sonofthebong420]

Granger2 the potato test confirmed the root aphids over here. I'm super bummed out right now, I've never had any problems like these before.

Videos confirming the root aphids :

https://vid.me/BGez

https://vid.me/ncaJ

Imid is on its way and I'm counting on it.
Right now my plan is :
Imid on the entire veg room, new clones on per lite only, change to hempy bucket once they root.

My question is :
I have infected plants on their 3rd week of flower, if i send in new plants even if they are treated with imid will they get the aphids ?

Basically what i'm saying is : In my flower tent i always have 2 sets of plants, 30-35 days of age apart. Do i have to empty the perpetual flower tent to get clean or treating on veg will hold on during flower ?

Thanks for helping out !

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

Yes. They use talc as a carrier. They recommend heavy agitation followed by time to let the talc settle to the bottom. Then skim off till you get water level low enough that talc can't be avoided. Discard the rest. The talc is not harmful, except it will mess with the drainage of your medium. Good luck. -granger

Granger knock on wood no root aphids over here but I cant seem to get rid of fungus gnats to save my life. Im using the og biowar and im about to throw in a full dunk in each of my reservoirs. There not causing any damage just annoying as anything have to replace sticky traps every week with new ones ever since switching to ready gro aeration theyve exploded. I think from now on im going to treat the ready gro with go gnats and ill mix in BTI too. Does anyone know if the BTI granules go bad ever ?



Shit sucks hate seeing these god damn fliers but at least there not aphids. will hit em with the OG BIOWAR tonight at 1 tablespoon per gal. Thinking if making a tea and letting it brew for an hour or two will make it more effective cant believe these gnats are still around and dont want to use anything oil based in flower right no to disrupt root growth.

 

[Granger2]

OGBiowar has BTI. It also has the 2 fungi that are in Met 52 and Botanigard. If you keep at it, and don't wait too long between treatments, You should, in time, prevail. Probably the medium you're using comes with eggs. And yes, BTI does have a shelf life. Try to get your BTI products at a place that does a large sales volume so they'll be likely to have fresh product. Good luck. -granger

 

[StankyBeamer]

Granger knock on wood no root aphids over here but I cant seem to get rid of fungus gnats to save my life. Im using the og biowar and im about to throw in a full dunk in each of my reservoirs. There not causing any damage just annoying as anything have to replace sticky traps every week with new ones ever since switching to ready gro aeration theyve exploded. I think from now on im going to treat the ready gro with go gnats and ill mix in BTI too. Does anyone know if the BTI granules go bad ever ?



Shit sucks hate seeing these god damn fliers but at least there not aphids. will hit em with the OG BIOWAR tonight at 1 tablespoon per gal. Thinking if making a tea and letting it brew for an hour or two will make it more effective cant believe these gnats are still around and dont want to use anything oil based in flower right no to disrupt root growth.

Ive had better luck with h miles and nematodes than anything for the gnats. Treating the soil with permethrin a few times a week apart seems to keep em pretty much non-existant, but theres always a few left. Biological controls have made a huge difference for me

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

Ive had better luck with h miles and nematodes than anything for the gnats. Treating the soil with permethrin a few times a week apart seems to keep em pretty much non-existant, but theres always a few left. Biological controls have made a huge difference for me

why do those sponges of nematodes give me no confidence at all that theres anything living or alive in there. How do you tell there living and not dead ?


where are you getting yours from stanky ? same plae as your H miles ?

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

OGBiowar has BTI. It also has the 2 fungi that are in Met 52 and Botanigard. If you keep at it, and don't wait too long between treatments, You should, in time, prevail. Probably the medium you're using comes with eggs. And yes, BTI does have a shelf life. Try to get your BTI products at a place that does a large sales volume so they'll be likely to have fresh product. Good luck. -granger

once a week og biowar sufficient granger ? whats the shelf life on BTI got fresh dunks but 2 year old granules ?

 

[StankyBeamer]

Arabico organics has been pretty on point so far. The todes come in an insulated package overnighted so they dont get too hot or dry out, its just a powder you put in a spray, i didnt get sponges iirc. That and the h miles killed em dead last summer. Didnt have the same luck this summer because the h miles i ordered at the hydro store were dead, ill be going through arabico for those as well next time.

 

[Granger2]

DON.,
With OGBW, I'd mix 4 tsp each of Root and Foliar/gal weekly for the first month, then every other week for about 3 months, then monthly after that. I plan to keep using it monthly for the duration. I'm not about to allow an outbreak again and the resulting loss of yield, genetics, time, etc. Treatment is way cheaper. Gives me peace of mind which I didn't have for over 2 years. Not worth the frustration. I can't tell you the shelf life of BTi. Good luck. -granger

 

[medicalmj]

why do those sponges of nematodes give me no confidence at all that theres anything living or alive in there. How do you tell there living and not dead ?


where are you getting yours from stanky ? same plae as your H miles ?

i always take a sample of the mixture and put a drop on a slide. I have a sweet stereoscope and at just 40X i can estimate % live. If I get more than 2/3 dead I just take it back for a new one. Also, find out how they store and how old. If not refrigerated and if more than a week or so old probably more than 1/2 dead.

 

[Andyo]

Chlorine to eliminate the fungus

Chlorine to eliminate the fungus

I grew in the uk for 30 yrs moved to tropical island now.
Lots of uk growers use NFT to grow so basicly an open root matt
Those that didnt have fungal molds where using uk tap water which relys on chlorine to kill bacteria ,it kills fungus too

fungas gnats rely n fungus without they wont survive .
Not seen any reports on root aphids in uk

I ran ebb/flow in hydroton in uk cuttings established in 3 inch rockwool using tap water treated with chlorine ,never saw a fungus gnat .

Within 6 months tropical growing same system and nutes i got root aphids .
So i added calcium chlorate to my rezevoirs a weighed amount of solid from the pucks they use in swimming pools
I started seeing dead root aphids in the black tank beetle form in bottom of rez ,and no more flyers
i think the fungus they fed on was eliminated.

i didnt get to go much further in observation as i had to shut down and move .
Eliminate the fungus !A

 

[Sorceror]

I'm pretty sure I have root aphids. The fliers are not like the fungus gnats im used to and I tried the potato trick and found little black long bugs with two antennae from head. There is a white substance on bottom of pots near drainage holes. The plants don't seem to show a deficiency until after put into bloom.

It is just a small 400w grow so I was wondering if there is a cheap way of killing these off while saving the genetics? Medium is coco and in late veg/early flower.

 

[sheik_yerbouti]

Just found the bastards in my grow, second time battling these guys. Last time I had to do a full shutdown after battling for a year but alas they're back after a glorious 8 months of trouble free growing. So frustrating.

Going to go with a 3 part attack:

Water 1. Soak with Ortherne (40ml per gal)
Water 2. Enzymes and root booster with light nutrient to hopefully avoid nutrient burn
Water 3. Imidoclorprid
Water 4. OG biowar Foliar and Nut Pack

Couple questions:

Has anyone had any success mixing a nutrient solution with the Acephate or Imidoclorprid?
- One of the big problem I find with having to do this heavy chemical applications is that your plants will go a long time without nutrients in an already damaged root zone causing even more stress on the plants. I'm wondering if mixing a light nutrient solution with these chemicals could help this

Has anyone found any affordable alternatives to the OG biowar for long term preventative and battle?
- I have a fairly large room in multiple stages so I often use a gull 50gal reservoir for feeding (I'm in a Soiless medium in pots) so using the Biowar is going to get extremely expensive quickly if I use on a weekly or bi weekly basis.

Obviously none of the heavy Chems will be used in flower.

Any help is appreciated

Also I'm looking for a could concentrated product that could be used in my fogger to disinfect and kill any eggs or aphids when I clean my rooms and something that could be used to sterilize my pots after use. Any suggestions?

 

[sheik_yerbouti]

I'm pretty sure I have root aphids. The fliers are not like the fungus gnats im used to and I tried the potato trick and found little black long bugs with two antennae from head. There is a white substance on bottom of pots near drainage holes. The plants don't seem to show a deficiency until after put into bloom.

It is just a small 400w grow so I was wondering if there is a cheap way of killing these off while saving the genetics? Medium is coco and in late veg/early flower.

I just did an soak with Orthene and I'm seeing a shitload of dead Aphids. The stuff is toxic and reeks havok on your plants but it def looks to do a good job of killing the Aphids on contact, not sure how long the systemic properties of it will continue to works as I'm sure eggs will be hatching and flyers will be laying eggs. It's pretty cheap though for what you get, this combined with a couple other things on a weekly basis should do a good job.

Note: it seems the Orthene made the plants sensitive to light. I've turned off all lights except one in the room and they seem to be getting happier.

 

[Granger2]

Most of the RA reproduction is not from egg laying. The wingless RA's give live birth to already pregnant females. I would not use Imid. The Orthene should do the job, but why not do what has worked well for so many? Use the Pyrethrum along with the Orthene? -granger

 

[sheik_yerbouti]

I guess i don't see the point of doing the Pyrethrum along with the Orthene. Both are contact killers however the Orthene has systemic properties so prob a little more effective, the Pyrethium seems redundant. Also I'm a little nervous with the Pyrethrum because a friend of mine just torched hiancrop with a Pyrethrum soak that was too strong. I do have some on order that I was going to use as disinfectant for pots and room.

Why do you not think the Imid is worth using? I know a guy who got rid of them using it.

I don't trust a one shot kill and don't like how the Orthene effects the plants so my thoughts were Orthene with Imid a week later instead of orthene 2 weeks in a row.