Flush and starve plants during flowering??

[stihgnobevoli]

But isn't it about ripened fruit? I hear what you are saying, but you discount the whole ripening process.

this is what i'm always saying. the buds have to ripen like fruit, the ripening happens in the plant as it's dying. harvest yellow plants not green.

i cut nitrogen after about week 5 flower plain water last 3 weeks. i'll cut the nitrogen sooner next round. funniest part is the buds swell the most when the nitrogen goes down. before that just a lotta pistils.

i'm thinking nitrogen helps build more flowers, the phos must make the flowers actually grow out. as in expand.

 

[Resu]

How many grams per watt do you yield with this style sti?

 

[Resu]

How is your yield with this style Sti?

 

[stihgnobevoli]

i dunno i never really calculate it. but a plant like that one is like 10 grams dry, and i could fit 8-10 of those in my cab under 100 watts. 1gram per watt?

 

[powderful]

How do you guys feel about flushing times in hydro vs soil?

I see some of the advice here is from soil growers, just wondering if you would do the same in a bubble bucket or ebb n flow?

 

[mojave green]

hydro grower

hydro grower

no flush here.

 

[sourpuss]

Gonna try a small sample of no flush harvest. Hows the ash mojave green?

@vapor , tried my bud in a roor paper, was mega thin. Ash was darker grey. U were right. My methods r not there yet. Pls a little insight... gonna reread this thread not so high

 

[sourpuss]

this is what i'm always saying. the buds have to ripen like fruit, the ripening happens in the plant as it's dying. harvest yellow plants not green.

View Image

i cut nitrogen after about week 5 flower plain water last 3 weeks. i'll cut the nitrogen sooner next round. funniest part is the buds swell the most when the nitrogen goes down. before that just a lotta pistils.

i'm thinking nitrogen helps build more flowers, the phos must make the flowers actually grow out. as in expand.

Do you use ro water for the last 3 weeks. Water only? And your suggesting dping more next time? 2 week tap water seems to be lesser quality than 1 week flushing agent for me. Im hoping its the ro makin a difference, easy solution for me....

If nitrogen is cut out does that mean cal mag should be too? I read its a source of nitrogen..

 

[stihgnobevoli]

i just use plain water out of the tap, i don't bother with ro or pH and all that. just making em use up what's left and not adding more food.

 

[powderful]

i just use plain water out of the tap, i don't bother with ro or pH and all that. just making em use up what's left and not adding more food.

You are in soil, correct?

Some people say they don't ph their water during flush but most of them are soil growers and they naturally feed a more alkaline ph than hydro which would make sense but I wouldn't feed a hydro plant say 7,8 ph water.

Keep in mind this is the HYDRO section guys

 

[Resu]

You are in soil, correct?

Some people say they don't ph their water during flush but most of them are soil growers and they naturally feed a more alkaline ph than hydro which would make sense but I wouldn't feed a hydro plant say 7,8 ph water.

Keep in mind this is the HYDRO section guys

Im using hydro and I did flush with non-PH'd RO water for the last 7 days. Should I PH next time?

 

[sourpuss]

Im using hydro and I did flush with non-PH'd RO water for the last 7 days. Should I PH next time?

Was your ash white or black? Im finding cleaner prod with less flush.... read the cigar th9ng someone posted in this thread..... still trying to figure this out....

 

[powderful]

Im using hydro and I did flush with non-PH'd RO water for the last 7 days. Should I PH next time?

In my understanding it is better to have the ph within the usual range 5.2-6.2 because in this range the plant will absorb any nutes left in the res/roots rather than getting nute lock-out.

 

[sourpuss]

@vapor

Hey, your the 9nly one to show a nice white ash in a thin paper. Mine was pretty dark was rainy and cold, was able to grab a pic... but is nice in a thick, you were spot on... pls share some wizdom on your technique plz

Weird how florakleen is still a great harvest. Can t deny its improved my stuff. Still want that white ash.... clean taste in a thin paper....

 

[vapor]

Our friend snowcrash says it well. For me i time out my whole crop in terms of what my plant will use during it's whole life when i mix and compost my medium and cook. It has taken me 3 or 4 years of dialing to find where i like to be. This has allowed me to use separate inputs and watch what they do, this has been years of work. And all Plants act a bit differently, I dont just drop N i drop everything NPK cal/mag ratio etc et. droping N is only part of it in the last half of flower it is finding the right amount of phos and potassium among other inputs cal/mag being uber important{you can still have black ash if these are too high} but i have found 3 basic mixes that i use for 3 different plant types. Kushs 8-10 week flower, sativas12-16 week, long flowering sativas 16-30 weeks flower. For folks growing with salts/ bottles ferts thing are balanced for you so it is a matter of not over feeding through the run and "flushing" using straight water from week 5 on if it is a 8-10 week flower, and from 6 or 7 depending if it is a 12 week flower, so as to let the plant maximize senescence.Pretty simple just a matter of doing it till you figure out where your plant wants to be. Dont be scared of yellowing from week 5 on of flower with your kushs{mine start fading around 4 to 5 weeks flower} By that time you have built enough nutrients in the plant for it to complete it life. Buds will swell even though leaves are dropping and going yellow, yield will be fine as you dial and herb is just better all around IMO. So there is a very fine line so find it and be happy with a nice white ash, this is just what i have found from me and my friends giving each other input over the years, we like to enjoy our cannabis so we often find that our love and patients grows dank. be open the lessons are infinite.

I have done many harvests, flushed and unflushed. Here's the thing...

Elements in the plant (nutrients) do not easily wash out of the root tissue. The process of ion exchange depends considerably on the pH of the solution (or the presence of H+ versus OH-). While running nothing but water through the media will remove and reduce residual elements available for uptake, it does very little to actually clean the plant.

Some elements are used for DNA synthesis. Others are used for cell tissues. But most are present to assist in the generation and transmission of energy from photosynthetic activity. Some elements are mobile. Others are not.

What is important is to not saturate the plant with elements during the grow. Plants have a wide acceptable range. This is why so many different NPK ratios from different manufacturers are all fairly effective. Clean burning bud comes from a plant grown on the low end of the adequate range (please see attached image). A plant can be grown at the high end of the adequate range with out showing signs of distress. Rather than running an excess of nutrients during the grow (as much as she can handle) a grower will get the same metabolic rates from a plant grown on the lighter end of the spectrum as long as the nutrient levels are adequate.

Too many growers have the idea that they need to push as much as possible into the plant for the best growth. This couldn't be more wrong. As with all things in life the middle path is the best path. Running hot, without over feeding, and then trying to flush the plant of that during the last few days is a fools errand.

If you want a clean burning product, and I think we all do, feed at the lower end of the acceptable range for you plant. You are looking for natural deficiency. Slow, subtle yellowing. No necrosis. And when she lets you know she needs more, then give her more. But simply assuming that because you plant looks healthy that it is getting the "correct" amount of nutrition is what leads to black, funky, smoke.

During the last 10-14 days though, the uptake of elements in other studied crops (corn, wheat, barley, tomatoes, etc) after flower/fruit set drops considerably (see attached image). Flushing isn't removing excess elements from the plant as much as it is inline with the present nutritional requirements for that period of growth. Light nutrition is fine, but this should be very low ppms if applied.

 

[Piff Rhys Jones]

What I have found is that clean burning bud is a combination of ensuring no over feeding throughout the entire growth of the plant, and cutting out feed at the right time when nearing the end.

A plant pumped full of N until the last few weeks will still burn bad despite a long flush. Also the right size pot to reflect the plant size is important. Too big a pot for the size of plant, it will be unlikely to use all the nutrients in the medium sufficiently by harvest time, regardless of length of flush.

Other factors also influence quality of burn. A denser, heavier more resinous bud will burn better and cleaner provided it's been flushed and not overfed, as it stays hotter for longer due to the density.

Another thing I have found is that the bud burns cleanest at the top of the plant, closest to the lights.

Hope this helps.

Peace

 

[vapor]

The goal is to have the whole plant burn like those top nugs closest to the light....

 

[powderful]

Forums > Marijuana Growing > Indoor Grows - Hydro

 

[Piff Rhys Jones]

Forums > Marijuana Growing > Indoor Grows - Hydro

The same principles apply whether growing in water, perlite, compost, peat, coco, any medium.

No need to be a smart ass.

Peace

 

[vapor]

Forums > Marijuana Growing > Indoor Grows - Hydro

Same thinking applies.. do you have anything to help these folks?

beat me too it ^^^