plantingplants
Active member
That doesn't look too steep for a 5 yard dump truck. I'll try and find out about the meeting. I know a guy who knows a guy who surely went. lol
Fireknot farm 2016
- Thread starter _tessarecting
- Start date
R
Robrites
Ya, that ain't the eatin' kind.
Nice driveway. I know the feeling of working a dirty property, good luck with the clean up.
That garden has big potential, how's the sun light?
Thanks for sharing
That garden has big potential, how's the sun light?
Thanks for sharing
_tessarecting
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Thanks! In the far corner theres 1 hole with questionable sun but it will be "good enough" I'll put a smaller, less desired one there. I'm leaving all trees intact incase I ever get shit from someone, I can use the "last tennents did it" defense, have pics for proof. Doubt it will ever come down to that but you never know.
that site looks like a sweet place for some trees, nice clean up.
I don't see drainage problems. what are you doing to that soil based on your report?
will you be adding gypsum like they mentioned? if you are renting a bobcat I would grab an excavator attachment and stir up and amend those holes before you cover them.
that mushroom looked like a stinkhorn to me.
OverGrow!
_tessarecting
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I might ammend something for ca/mg/n in the holes before adding the mounds. Saw this mentioned on the big plant thread. I handed off the results to a consultant and will know soon what I should be doing. Might not be needed though. The results actually hardly show deficet in those at site 2 (holes) now that I look back.
So far I'm aware it needs gypsum for calcium [I dont know how to determine amount based off results. It just says 30/1000ft2 ...30 what? And what does that figure convert to yards?] and someone mentioned it was low in boron.
I wonder why tests dont show N levels? There is something missing here in my understanding of how all this works. I know it says to adjust based off of color, I can do that, I guess it's just confusing how people calculate N % but maybe coot's already figured this out and I just haven't read it yet.
So far I'm aware it needs gypsum for calcium [I dont know how to determine amount based off results. It just says 30/1000ft2 ...30 what? And what does that figure convert to yards?] and someone mentioned it was low in boron.
I wonder why tests dont show N levels? There is something missing here in my understanding of how all this works. I know it says to adjust based off of color, I can do that, I guess it's just confusing how people calculate N % but maybe coot's already figured this out and I just haven't read it yet.
S
Stone House
Outstanding cleanup, site looks great!
All the trash/chemicals being left behind when growers moved out of my area in Butte has really upset alot of my neighbors (myself included).
Sad to say but most of the properties left filthy were leased by out of state growers.
Again, thanks for being a good steward of your property!
The mess these fly-by-night growers leave behind effects us all
in the eyes of the general public.
B
BAKED_BEANZ
adding gypsum , and turning the old holes is good idea , loosen them up . sooner the better for that one . good call chunky!
_tessarecting
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So you would recommend gypsum at site 2 even though results show its hardly deficit, why? It looks like it's more important at site1, the coot's.
Im down to take advice but I want to understand the mechanism before I do anything.
Im down to take advice but I want to understand the mechanism before I do anything.
I was assuming you will cover the old holes with the new mix so now would be your chance to ammend.
They are recommending 30# per thousand sq ft gypsum. Somewhere way back a few years, 3 or 4, there was info in the growing large plants thread on how people were interpreting the per acre numbers on the soil reports for their planters and holes.
It probably is more important to ammend the coots mix but that will be easy to ammend when you are moving it up the hill.
If those were my holes I would also add a dump truck of straw bedding and animal shit from a local farm or three, horse, cow, lamb, chicken, rabbit, goat.... Farms have big piles where they clean out their stables and if you are willing to pay them decently for their time and gas to load a dump truck you can get the ferts almost free.
_tessarecting
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Most efficient protocol? Move 5 yards at a time w skid steer into pile with dump truck, move into mounds via skid steer when done?
Interesting tip. I have lots of that around me in this area.
I slept like 4 hours for the third day straight. Research sounds utterly impossible to me right now. I'll try to figure that out, but will probably just wait for consultant.
Interesting tip. I have lots of that around me in this area.
I slept like 4 hours for the third day straight. Research sounds utterly impossible to me right now. I'll try to figure that out, but will probably just wait for consultant.
_tessarecting
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Feels like it to me right now!
you never said how far it is from your soil staging area to your garden, but i dont think using a dump truck AND a skid steer will save you much time, plus it is probably more work and just seems unnecesary
just get a skid steer with a bucket (on tracks preferably) and use that to move the dirt to your garden. make sure you leave enough room in between pots/mounds to maneuver the skid steer
just get a skid steer with a bucket (on tracks preferably) and use that to move the dirt to your garden. make sure you leave enough room in between pots/mounds to maneuver the skid steer
_tessarecting
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I took pics to try to guage distance on previous page, you can see the telephone pole in the pics to guage, how far it is I dont know, Im kinda wondering the same thing, it seems to me like even 2 days w a skid steer would be better than 2 rentals but I've never done this before
2 days with a skid steer is chill, i bet you can do it in one though. the one i rented last year had a big bucket, wasn't too many trips
Dubble post
How to read a soil report: http://www.soilminerals.com/soiltest_page1.htm
This has a little more detail: http://agsource.crinet.com/page2903/UnderstandingASoilAnalysis
I would take those soil reports to a couple of AG supply places and ask for help and see if the folks who sell the stuff can explain it in a way you can understand.
Maybe go to the place you purchased the coots mix from also and see what they think and recommend also.
Most mmj growing practices are really not based in science. Using dirt once and then replacing it is insane but if you don't rotate crops and grow your MMJ in the same spot year after year you will quickly run into problems with pests and deficiencies and then replacing it every year will begin to look like a smart move if you want a decent harvest.
You tests are showing the sample you grabbed from the ground should out perform the new mix but your ground is compacted and I'll bet each hole there is not the same.
The fresh coots mix all fluffed up is going to work better than those old holes the way they are but you might get away with amending the old holes and tilling enough coots mix in to get the volume you are shooting for.
Holes in the earth are going to need less water than smart pots or mounds which might be something to consider.
Prohibition really messes with growing weeds, no?
One more great ammendment that's almost free is chipped wood compost from wherever they make it in your town or county. Decaying wood brings in lots of natural beneficials.
Also if you have that skid steer scoop up leaf litter from the wooded areas surrounding your site and put that on your grow, it will inoculate your holes with the local beneficials as well as mushroom mycelium.
This has a little more detail: http://agsource.crinet.com/page2903/UnderstandingASoilAnalysis
I would take those soil reports to a couple of AG supply places and ask for help and see if the folks who sell the stuff can explain it in a way you can understand.
Maybe go to the place you purchased the coots mix from also and see what they think and recommend also.
Most mmj growing practices are really not based in science. Using dirt once and then replacing it is insane but if you don't rotate crops and grow your MMJ in the same spot year after year you will quickly run into problems with pests and deficiencies and then replacing it every year will begin to look like a smart move if you want a decent harvest.
You tests are showing the sample you grabbed from the ground should out perform the new mix but your ground is compacted and I'll bet each hole there is not the same.
The fresh coots mix all fluffed up is going to work better than those old holes the way they are but you might get away with amending the old holes and tilling enough coots mix in to get the volume you are shooting for.
Holes in the earth are going to need less water than smart pots or mounds which might be something to consider.
Prohibition really messes with growing weeds, no?
One more great ammendment that's almost free is chipped wood compost from wherever they make it in your town or county. Decaying wood brings in lots of natural beneficials.
Also if you have that skid steer scoop up leaf litter from the wooded areas surrounding your site and put that on your grow, it will inoculate your holes with the local beneficials as well as mushroom mycelium.
_tessarecting
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Thanks... I'll try to wrap my head around that tomorrow...my brain feels like jello today
