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Fire safety

i cam accrost the thread that was all about this at one time but i dont remember were it was it was ether on here or on gc but the guy said steal door no occleating fans luvers on the intake and out and fire alarms wired to your fans if the alarms scence smoke it shut the fans off and the luvers close so no air can get in and the fire burns its self out i will search for the thread it walks you threw everything from wireing to a finished room and if i find it ill post it
 

bsound

Member
I'm bumping this way the hell up there. Couldn't find any recent threads of relevance. : joint:
 
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rhyder

Member
so let me get this straight. there is actually people in here condoning the fact that he got sentenced for murder?? he deserved that?? the grower deserved to get charged with MURDER?? might want to think about what you are saying.
 
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blazeoneup

The Helpful One
Moderator
Chat Moderator
Veteran
so let me get this straight. there is actually people in here condoning the fact that he got sentenced for murder?? he deserved that?? the grower deserved to get charged with MURDER?? might want to think about what you are saying.

Murder is pretty harsh, I think they went all out with him simply because he was stealing power illegally and bypassed the meter, but murder is harsh, Its not liked he planned for a fire to start and someone to lose thier life, I do think the main reason for his sentence was because of his illegal wiring and stealing power.
 

Jack Rabit

New member
Heres what i do! weave a garden hoses across the top of room! Plug off 1 end and charge with water! As soon as water gets to nominal temp it wont sweat! You can add a water bell (Little pricey) Or rig a flow sensor to alert you of an issue! Water damage easy to conceal or fire damage, crappy trade off but it works!
 

Sgt.Stedenko

Crotchety Cabaholic
Veteran
A firefighter was killed here last year at a grow op fire when he fell through a hole cut in the floor by the grower used to exhaust his grow.
It's certainly not the firefighter's fault, and any grower should realize they could be charged if a firefigher is killed or injured.
You are not going to win that argument with a judge or jury, so grow up and grow safe.
 
C

cannarelief

If my license application is accepted-I plan to use most of these items to ensure fire safety and peace of mind/Many will say it is total overkill(perhaps)-I am not saying anyone HAS to do this-I just feel this is best for myself and it reflects what I have seen in many years of construction work.


Room fire safety.


Something like this would be invaluable IMHO especially when coupled with the auto fan and device shut downs

http://flameauthority.com/Home-Automatic-fire-extinguisher-12KG-Home-Fire-Extinguisher-12kg.htm many grow stores ell them-a simple and good solution



of course there are many other types depending on what you have around you and room requirements

http://www.rvcruzer.com/firesystem.php

http://www.firetrace.co.uk/products.html

http://www.pyrogen.com/

http://www.fike.com/products/fsfireraser.asp

http://www.server-room-furniture.com/fire-suppression.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_fire_suppression HALON is banned in a lot of areas-avoid this medium if you buy a used system. While it is very good at fire suppression-it equally suppresses human life

http://ezinearticles.com/?Fire-Supp...our-Server-Room,-Data-Center-Or-NOC&id=768738


If you want to stick to water

It is easy enough to download NFPA 13 residential fire sprinkler code (buy a copy or find an "alternative" source) this will show you how to add some simple CPVC (blazemaster) based sprinkler heads for outside the room protection and rest of house barrier-of course keep water based sprinklers outside the actual room (electrical concerns) -265°F pendant sprinkler heads are sold at plumbing suppliers.You could also make a simple copper pipe system.

http://www.suite101.com/content/fire-fighting-with-home-sprinkler-systems-a170724


cover your room walls with one or the other (easy to paint flat white-flat white primer may be good enough)

http://www.usg.com/durock-cement-board.html or similar http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement_board

use this product if you need support for hanging things on the wall

http://www.wolmanizedwood.com/Products/FireRetardants/Dricon/default.htm (fire rated plywood)


insulate the wall space with http://www.roxul.com/stone+wool/fire-resistance or similar

you could also build the walls with steel studs (thicker studs are available for mounting to wall purposes )(although wonderboard or Dricon make the wall pretty strong to mount stuff with regular studs )(not vital if you have used fire rated wall coverings but certainly more fire resistant than wood) (some local codes for inspected rooms may require the use for code compliance) *NOTE* moisture may be an issue at the bottom plate and stud bottoms-plastic sheet barrier may be needed

http://www.suite101.com/content/the-advantages-of-residential-metal-stud-framing-a183398



taking things to a higher level


sealing room penetrations with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestop


adding smoke/fire dampers/dampened intake louvers on duct work that penetrates the room/motorized dampers for commercial settings

http://www.mtlfab.com/dampers.php http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_damper


if the room is being inspected then local codes will have the required material/assemblies laid out

if you simply want to increase safety and piece of mind-then any of these would be an improvement-your wallet is the only limiter

I personally would rather deal with sprinkler water damage/powder all over as opposed to a house fire

If you have no knowledge on how to install any of these items-then of course seek direction or competent installers


this post is not professional fire protection/life safety advice
 

SOTF420

Humble Human, Freedom Fighter, Cannabis Lover, Bre
ICMag Donor
Veteran
How did nobody mention LED lights yet?

I used to not leave the house when my HID was on, now with high quality LED lights (Lumigrow) I really don't think twice about it. Basic fire precautions regarding everything else like not overloading circuits still need to be observed but by using LED in my estimation at the absolute minimum cuts down your chance of a fire by at least 2/3 or more compared to searing hot HID's just waiting to burn something at all times. They use far less juice, produce far less heat and can still grow some very nice nugs! :good:

picture.php
 
hang fire ex

hang fire ex

For indoor growrooms a home defence fire extinguisher just hang from cieling very simple defence against most all fires its rated abc chem, with this and arckfault and gfi recepts, smoke det. will go a long way at personel fire protection.I install them in all my customers GR.
 
S

Señor Chang

Im going to have to look into those Bonpet automated fire extinguishers. They look great for us tent folk. Here is a link to their us counterpart: http://www.bonpetusa.com/index.htm

Because I would be in lower ceilings than the flame defender can be efficiently used (tents) I needed to look for other ideas for fire protection.

I am also quite interested in this item: http://www.grottofireball.com/default.asp?tcode=asp3&CD=%LINK-%SUBID1&bhcp=1

For a tent, I'd put one inside and one ontop /wherever your electrical stuff is.
Pretty cool little idea.
 

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
what kind of things can we do to ensure maximum fire safety?

1. think before we start (nuff folks jump headlong in without thinking logically)

2. ensure all electric appliances have a break switch or active fuse

3. NO TIN FOIL !!!

4. Place ballasts high up above plants!!! (this prevents water spills on electric ; which don't mix!)

5. Spray plants outside of the grow-room if you have to spray them at all (otherwise the bulb goes BOOM in ya face, and leaves you temporarily blinded . trust us) !!

there are x100 other things,, but we hope this helps
 

dxco

New member
Don't feed a fire with fresh air! Controller to automaticall kill fans.

Don't feed a fire with fresh air! Controller to automaticall kill fans.

While there is NO SUBSTITUTION for working smoke detectors, I will 100% agree with everyone who has recommended the Flame Defender. I am such a fan of these that I contacted the manufacturer in hopes of becoming a distributor. I had plans of supplying them at cost to my lighting controller customers. Problem was that you can buy them cheaper at any grow store for less than I could buy them by the pallet direct from the manufacturer! They quoted me like $50 for the unit you can buy for about $45. I have to give credit when due because I believe Sunlight Supply is selling these at a very small if any markup.
I recommend this item for anybody who grows under HID lighting OR has any high power devices in their grow room.
My conversation with the manufacturer went a step further: I wanted to add a sensor on the valve to trigger an alarm AND tell the controller to kill all of the lights and fans in the room but they didn't offer the option.
So, I offer a heat sensor as an option on all of my controllers at the very reasonable charge of $40 (plus additional relays if required). If the temp hits 194f the lights (and fans if equipped) turn off.
The last thing you want to do in the event of fire is to feed it with fresh oxygen! As with the Flame Defender, this is NOT A SUBSTITUTE for working smoke alarms but between smoke alarms, the Flame Defender and a controller to kill the power, your risk of a grow room fire becoming a like threatening event is greatly reduced -Your chances of the fire being extinguished before the cops and fire department arriving are increased too. Which can be a good thing for those who don't want uninvited visitors showing up.
At the very minimum, smoke alarms and a well-built lighting controller are essential to anybody using HID lighting in their grow room. Connecting your controller to a GFIC (ground fault inturrupter) breaker is a good idea too -especially in the grow room where electricity and water are used.
Check out "Do I need a lighing controller" for more info about why you shouldn't just use a bunch of lamp timers and power strips...
Also, I'm happy to answer any electrical questions you may have to the best of my ability -even if you're hooking up a competitor's product! (most manufacturers have no competent tech support or will not help due to liability reasons)
My email is dweddle@dxsoundco.com
And I promise not to make up an answer if I don't have one.
:deadhorse Safe Growing! -DX
 

dxco

New member
If my license application is accepted-I plan to use most of these items to ensure fire safety and peace of mind/Many will say it is total overkill(perhaps)-I am not saying anyone HAS to do this-I just feel this is best for myself and it reflects what I have seen in many years of construction work.


Room fire safety.


Something like this would be invaluable IMHO especially when coupled with the auto fan and device shut downs

http://flameauthority.com/Home-Automatic-fire-extinguisher-12KG-Home-Fire-Extinguisher-12kg.htm many grow stores ell them-a simple and good solution



of course there are many other types depending on what you have around you and room requirements

http://www.rvcruzer.com/firesystem.php

http://www.firetrace.co.uk/products.html

http://www.pyrogen.com/

http://www.fike.com/products/fsfireraser.asp

http://www.server-room-furniture.com/fire-suppression.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_fire_suppression HALON is banned in a lot of areas-avoid this medium if you buy a used system. While it is very good at fire suppression-it equally suppresses human life

http://ezinearticles.com/?Fire-Supp...our-Server-Room,-Data-Center-Or-NOC&id=768738


If you want to stick to water

It is easy enough to download NFPA 13 residential fire sprinkler code (buy a copy or find an "alternative" source) this will show you how to add some simple CPVC (blazemaster) based sprinkler heads for outside the room protection and rest of house barrier-of course keep water based sprinklers outside the actual room (electrical concerns) -265°F pendant sprinkler heads are sold at plumbing suppliers.You could also make a simple copper pipe system.

http://www.suite101.com/content/fire-fighting-with-home-sprinkler-systems-a170724


cover your room walls with one or the other (easy to paint flat white-flat white primer may be good enough)

http://www.usg.com/durock-cement-board.html or similar http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement_board

use this product if you need support for hanging things on the wall

http://www.wolmanizedwood.com/Products/FireRetardants/Dricon/default.htm (fire rated plywood)


insulate the wall space with http://www.roxul.com/stone+wool/fire-resistance or similar

you could also build the walls with steel studs (thicker studs are available for mounting to wall purposes )(although wonderboard or Dricon make the wall pretty strong to mount stuff with regular studs )(not vital if you have used fire rated wall coverings but certainly more fire resistant than wood) (some local codes for inspected rooms may require the use for code compliance) *NOTE* moisture may be an issue at the bottom plate and stud bottoms-plastic sheet barrier may be needed

http://www.suite101.com/content/the-advantages-of-residential-metal-stud-framing-a183398



taking things to a higher level


sealing room penetrations with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestop


adding smoke/fire dampers/dampened intake louvers on duct work that penetrates the room/motorized dampers for commercial settings

http://www.mtlfab.com/dampers.php http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_damper


if the room is being inspected then local codes will have the required material/assemblies laid out

if you simply want to increase safety and piece of mind-then any of these would be an improvement-your wallet is the only limiter

I personally would rather deal with sprinkler water damage/powder all over as opposed to a house fire

If you have no knowledge on how to install any of these items-then of course seek direction or competent installers


this post is not professional fire protection/life safety advice
Great list of links -If you used half of this stuff you would have a seriously almost-fire-proof room -The next best thing might be a cement block room -Be sure & install a cement ceiling too!

Durock & Hardyboard type covering is great stuff. Used it a lot of boiler rooms & other harsh environments.

*******************************************************
Metall Halide Lights
Another thing I forgot to mention is Metal Halide lamps. The standard probe-start MH arc tube have been known to explode, showering anyone underneath the unprotected lamp with 700 degree glass! This is a serious fire hazard and is the reason you will NEVER see a UL listed MH fixture (probe start) without a tempered glass lens or other form of protection against breakage. There are also the safety lamps with a plastic coating that can be used without a lens -Not veery common & way too pricey

DX
 

softyellowlight

Active member
overvolting the outlet can start a fire 1k's pluged into a 15 amp circuit will pop the breaker so it might not be that dangerouse.

What? A 15A circuit would be rated for 15A x 120V = 1800W at 100% capacity. A 1K plus some fans is only gonna be 1200W or 66.6% load, which seems fine to me from all of the electrical advice I have heard about circuit loading on this forum, at least.
 
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