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Female seeds C99, Green Giant x C99, and GHS Chemdog Grow

LyryC

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The foliar spray is probably causing your plant leaves to become weird - they don't need the foliar spray so I wouldn't do it - Foliar spraying is for applying something directly to the plant that it would need immediately. Example: my aero clones are lime green cause i used just water to root them - and they aint turning dark green anytime soon - Foliar spraying nitrogen will help them uptake it faster/use it right away - opposed to feeding N to them and making them work to get it and making the recovery process longer. In your case your babies just need to grow and foliar spraying them is probably hindering their ability to photosynthesize to their maximum potential. Also the water/light combo does silly things to plants some times.

More importantly...

Aero requires COLD water.

MAKE SURE YOUR WATER TEMPS ARE BELOW 75.

You want 70 degree water ideally. Warm water kills the plants.

Whats the type of light/watts you are using.

If its a t5 drop that shit 4 - 6 inches from the tops

A MH/HPS should be a foot away at least with a good fan/breeze.

sorry if anything is redundant - just trying to help and I didn't look into the details in the beginning of the thread.
 

Methodd

Member
The foliar spray is probably causing your plant leaves to become weird - they don't need the foliar spray so I wouldn't do it - Foliar spraying is for applying something directly to the plant that it would need immediately. Example: my aero clones are lime green cause i used just water to root them - and they aint turning dark green anytime soon - Foliar spraying nitrogen will help them uptake it faster/use it right away - opposed to feeding N to them and making them work to get it and making the recovery process longer. In your case your babies just need to grow and foliar spraying them is probably hindering their ability to photosynthesize to their maximum potential. Also the water/light combo does silly things to plants some times.

More importantly...

Aero requires COLD water.

MAKE SURE YOUR WATER TEMPS ARE BELOW 75.

You want 70 degree water ideally. Warm water kills the plants.

Whats the type of light/watts you are using.

If its a t5 drop that shit 4 - 6 inches from the tops

A MH/HPS should be a foot away at least with a good fan/breeze.

sorry if anything is redundant - just trying to help and I didn't look into the details in the beginning of the thread.

Foilar feeding is probably it. Im using cfls atm for veg. got 10 of em about 6 inches above the plants encircling the plants. Gonna switch to a 4 bulb t5 for veg and 1k hps for flower next week. Water temps are great, around 68-70 degrees.
 

Methodd

Member
They are looking great, that leaf stuff cleared up so it must have been the foilar feeding. We put a windowshaker unit in and it gets really cold in there, i gotta buy one of those timers that will turn it on and off at certain temps. It got down to 54 last night. Also i was cleaning the room with the shop vac and accidentally sucked the chemdog in :wallbash: It survived though with only minor leaf damage. They have about 3-4 cloning spots coming in on each plant. But you guys will see that in the pics. Should have a few in a day or so. Thanks for stopping by.:thank you:
 

LyryC

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
good news good news - glad I could help.

Ur A/C doesn't have an automatic setting and shit? Mine was like $120 5200BTU window banger and its got remote - annd the works.

I think ur A/C has the options unless its really old.

The device to control the on/off with temps is called a thermostat.

Excited for pictures - and don't trip on the vacum thing - we all do that time to time - but only to learn from our mistakes - probably stressed the little one out with a quick trip to mars lol

:canabis:
 

Methodd

Member
Ya the a/c unit is really old, it has a thermostat but its a nob that you turn from 1-9, and its different degrees of cold, 9 being coldest. But the unit never turns off, just keeps running. I was thinking of just being a cheap 100 dollar one that has a thermostat that you can set, if the aftermarket thermostat is too expensive.
 

LyryC

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A/C's

A/C's

Heres the A/C I got. I got mines for 120 - prices are always fluctuating on A/C's.

Keystone KSTAW05A Energy Star 5,200 BTU 115-Volt Window-Mounted Air Conditioner with "Follow Me" LCD Remote Control

That has the features you want - I highly recommend this A/C.
You can set it and forget it. With the power saving feature it turns itself off and back on to control the temp. Remote was handy while it lasted - I think i got it wet :)

Heres a supah cheap A/C and heres a good price comparison - shop around dude!

150$ @ Home depot Frigidaire 5,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner

120$ @ Amazon
Frigidaire FRA052XT7 5,000-BTU Mini Window Air Conditioner
by Frigidaire


When it comes to equipment man - think of it as an investment.

Don't go cheap because you'll end up spending more in the long run.
I'd rather buy a quality product once instead of two or 3 times because its a cheap version and doesn't last as long.

A/C is a big investment - if you got the money and space and are looking to upgrade your grow/lights/space/plant count - get a bigger better A/C so you know when time comes you got that handled.

Just my :2cents: for ya sir

:good: luck!
 

Methodd

Member
Ok so i started seeing some discloration on the leaves and also some slight curling
This is a leaf of cindy

Ot6xANz.jpg


Also there is little white spots underneath

maOrhuD.jpg


This is what it looks like altogether

maOrhuD.jpg

6nD3WJe.jpg


The Chemdog has some of the spotting but isnt showing any curling, i think the curling is from and that the little white spots are white flys. I bought some white fly spray and fogged the room this afternoon. If you guys notice anything else wrong besides the white flys, and the leaf injurys from the vacuum incident please let me know.
 

Methodd

Member
Here are some Chemdog pics

This is a leaf with, i think, white fly damage.

GKbpi52.jpg


and then the whole plant,

9nEyXls.jpg


e9hduRo.jpg


and we also took 2 cuttings from Cindy and 4 cuttings from Chemdog

MasOGGS.jpg
 

Methodd

Member
Sprayed with pyrethreon (sp?) spray. The bugs are all dead now they just have to stay gone and plants need to start healing. Ill have some new pics up in a few days. I decided to veg the cuttings for a bit and put the 2 i was planning on keeping as mothers into flower. Will be making the switch in a day or two.
 

Methodd

Member
Starting flowering the 2 mothers today, bugs are all dead as far as i can see so things seem to be back on schedule. The cindy is still curling a bit so i think im gonna pick up some CalMag and start adding that to the res and see if that works.
 

Methodd

Member
One week into flower, hopefully have pics up tonight. Was wondering if i could get some input on something, do most people calculate weeks into flower from the time they switch the light or from when the first notice pistils? Id appreciate any insight into the matter.
 

Dr.RedWhite

Active member
There are two schools of thought, one group puts the beginning of flower the day you cut the lights back. The other says they are in flower when the plants start changing. Most I guess go for the first.
 

LyryC

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The day you switch to 12/12 can be Day 1 or the following day can be Day 1.

I recommend this because it provides greater control with a few things, training, feeding and scheduling your entire garden.

Determining flowering time upon budset is something that should be reserved for the guys outside. Outdoors can be timed but it is not as precise as indoors where you manipulate the entire environment.

Buy a cheap calendar or a desk calendar and mark day one and then in a corner on the other days write out the # day of flower it would be. Then you can mark off how ever many flowering weeks you need. Example is my calendar goes up to 10 weeks 75 days. Now you can mark off the feeding schedule day by day - mines simple It goes:

Monday : Base + Additives - for me thats Sensi bloom A+B, Big Bud, Bud Candy and rhinoskin. I just finished the rhino and will finish the bud candy soon and only use Base Bloom A+B and Big bud, overdrive and bud ignitor and final phase(flushing agent) but at appropriate times in flower.

Tuesday is Base Wednesday is Base + Hygrozyme - try and use a zyme to clean your medium on a weekly basis - it also creates more food for your plants and helps the roots.

Thursday is Base And then Friday is Base plus additives.

Saturday and Sunday are base and then its all over again.

I do drain to waste hand watering coco and just realized you use an automated feeding system with a res.

Hope them bitches lookin good brother - :good: good vibes to you n the plants!
 

Methodd

Member
Thanks for the input! Im gonna mark day 1 of flower as 9/15 so 8 weeks will be 11/17, hopefully by then they are a week or 2 out from finished.

Its funny that you use a drain to waste, because thats actually what im switching to, a drain to waste in coco. I just have these 2 in dwc because i intended to go all dwc but i can fit more in the area with coco. I think for that im gonna use the 3 part flora, and hygrozyme, or another one that protects against pest, i cant remember the name off hand though.

The plants are looking great, sorry to everyone for pics taking so long, ill have em up soon. The clones just started popping out roots and they look good, those will be going right into coco pots. Then be vegged for a few weeks and into the flowering room. Making a screen tomorrow to train em alittle bit. Any tips on that would be also appreciated.
 
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