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Far red leds (730 nm)?

L

Lysrgic

New member
jikko77 said:
check beta test team album.
there is a light absorption graph, its from the very begin to the very end of a full grow cycle.
it show how much % and what wave lenght are needed.
Click to expand...

can you post a link pls??:thank you:

Dion said:
ouch! thats expensive, also the bin is not properly listed

BUT they look like solid leds
Click to expand...

yea i know there's a bit of mystery surrounding them but hopefully they will do the work.... will post my results!

Does anyone have some good picks (cree preferred) for blue and uv?

I want to check the graphs first but I cant get reed of the idea of making a fully timed light system that will change its lights from relatively blue to red according to the day of the grow. icluding dimmers and arduino and all sort of crazy stuff.

Did anyone saw something like that being DIYed? I'm talking about something really natural, making the switch from 18-6 to 12-12 really mellow and gradual
 
jikko77

jikko77

Active member
uv led are way expansive.
xpe.
check cutter.au, they ship world wide.
they have a pcb with 4 or more led on the same.


https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=56434&pictureid=1331953
i'd say to check all his aldum:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=56434

no idea if they still active on icm.

osram alternative: http://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/...VL5Kk7ZYykb0gBwrc/V9Yb0ximVUVZ1n7ocRRvNvLaw==

edit: btt has discussed the quantity of uv into this thread: uv-b and uv-a https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=302671
Beta Test Team said:
...UV-B irradiance that has positive effects on plant physiology and growth, which is:
0.1 to 5 umol/s/area2 ... UV-A and blue range should be at least about 10x greater than UV-B irradiance.
Click to expand...

edit2: other quote from btt:

Beta Test Team said:
No. Far-red isn't something you would want to add to your spectrum normally, unless for very special use-cases (not photosynthesis). And UV-B should be applied all day, like PAR light. (UV-B can be over applied, just like PAR light)..
Click to expand...

Beta Test Team said:
FAR-RED:

In terms of not adding extra far-red I was referring to white light. If you have a LED array, you need to add far-red if it's not already provided by the LEDs.
Read up on "phytochrome photoequilibrium," "phytochrome," "photoperiodism," "red far-red ratio," "shade avoidance reaction," and "Emerson effect" to get a better understanding about use of far-red light by plants.
We want a red:far-red ratio of around 1 to less than 4 for indoor lighting. Sunlight is 1.05 to about 1.2 in the day, and about 0.6 to 0.8 at sunrise and sunset.
For PPE (aka PPS, "phytochrome photoequilibrium") we want about 0.8 to 0.9, sunlight is about 0.5 to 0.72, except at sunrise and sunset when it's much lower.
UV-B:
What do you mean by "estimated range for UV-B exposure"?
Yes, UV-B should be applied through the entire life cycle. And yes, the same irradiance is fine for vegetative and flowering stages.
Once we carry out our planned research on UV-B and Cannabis we would have more and better info to share.
Click to expand...

edit3: http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/104/4/1311.full.pdf+html Red/Far-Red Ratio
 
Last edited:
Phaeton

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
My seven plant perpetual runs 3200 watts hybrid lighting overhead.
The supplemental Far Red is 164 watts, 30 minutes at a time starting 15 before lights out.

The supplemental UVB is three T5 Reptisun 10's giving 15 watts of UVB. 40 to 80 uw at the plant, more began stunting plant growth.

Light cycle is 13.5/10.5 with equal yield per plant as before.
Before was with the lights closer and only room for six plants. The extra time per day allowed the lights to be moved higher and room for another plant was created.

The setup is in its second year, three of the flood lights were replaced with a four foot BMI Far Red bar putting out 50 watts. I am ordering two more as the output and coverage kick butt over the Philip LED Flowering Lamp FR's I am still using.
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
Lysrgic said:
can you post a link pls??:thank you:



yea i know there's a bit of mystery surrounding them but hopefully they will do the work.... will post my results!

Does anyone have some good picks (cree preferred) for blue and uv?

I want to check the graphs first but I cant get reed of the idea of making a fully timed light system that will change its lights from relatively blue to red according to the day of the grow. icluding dimmers and arduino and all sort of crazy stuff.

Did anyone saw something like that being DIYed? I'm talking about something really natural, making the switch from 18-6 to 12-12 really mellow and gradual
Click to expand...

personally i would use fastech for monos and drivers for monos because id wanna drive them at like 300mA and have higher efficiency for lower bins


OK here is what i suggest



a side by side

on one side custom spectra

the other side just cob

run two clones of the same rez(must be hydro so both are getting same feed)

for a 1sq ft space it will cost about $100 per side, i will help choosing the parts and even assemble if the tester wants


any takers hit me up, i dont have the realestate for it but maybe you do?
 
jikko77

jikko77

Active member
Koondense said:
And cobs cxb2530 or some other? One cct or more?
Both should be tested, for fun.
Click to expand...

well, what about share the test?

i mean someone can try with different cct + monos, someone else with same cct + monos.

i'm about to start a second build.
my idea is to try different cct, the old pannel (3x cob) have the same cct.

as said in dion's thread my idea is a couple of 5k and three 3k, or vice versa, but i'm on the 3070 one :p
can't remeber where, but some read suggested a proportion of 2:1 (red over blue).

taking in account BTT quote, how much uv would i need? ir/far red?
can someone do some math on that? (i'm soooo bad in math :p)
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
jikko77 said:
well, what about share the test?

i mean someone can try with different cct + monos, someone else with same cct + monos.

i'm about to start a second build.
my idea is to try different cct, the old pannel (3x cob) have the same cct.

as said in dion's thread my idea is a couple of 5k and three 3k, or vice versa, but i'm on the 3070 one :p
can't remeber where, but some read suggested a proportion of 2:1 (red over blue).

taking in account BTT quote, how much uv would i need? ir/far red?
can someone do some math on that? (i'm soooo bad in math :p)
Click to expand...

the problem with the uv/infa/far red is a measurement of the light

lumens are irrelevant and its outside the par range and not all led watts are the same as we know

ill have a think about it and see if i can get some approximate numbers for you

I would use cobs on 1 side and no cobs on the other for my dream side by side


are you thinking to do cob vs cob+uv+IR?

what size spaces?(so i can crunch numbers acording to available led emiters) also where woudl u buy from? cheapo china?
 
jikko77

jikko77

Active member
cutter, it has high cri and several cct for a decent price and a min quantity of 1 unit.
my total space i 100*60cm, i need to figure out how to divide it.
yes my idea is cob vs cob (different cct 3+5k - par coverage) + mono and uv; or something on this line, the uv will be, if i find any, a t5 else a cfl.
so far no hydro.
about the mono, my idea is to use xpe series, is the one cutter pre assembly on the pcb.
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
jikko77 said:
cutter, it has high cri and several cct for a decent price and a min quantity of 1 unit.
my total space i 100*60cm, i need to figure out how to divide it.
yes my idea is cob vs cob (different cct 3+5k - par coverage) + mono and uv; or something on this line, the uv will be, if i find any, a t5 else a cfl.
so far no hydro.
about the mono, my idea is to use xpe series, is the one cutter pre assembly on the pcb.
Click to expand...

perhaps two 50x60 spaces? one plant scrogged out in each?
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
jikko77 said:
can be.
Click to expand...


what about this?


picture.php
 
Dankwolf

Dankwolf

Active member
The mfg number / part number is up in the first photo . internet for sure also found them at a fe different lighting stores but it seems to be hit and mis . but from my reaserch its the best one to date . i like it but i am still in r&d phase. Hope that helped
 
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