Dream Berry BRIX/ROLS Newb Contest Entry

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

what are you using your airstones for brewing ? if so I would suggest separate airstones for brewing and just for water.. they shouldn't be slimy if their just in regular water.

I use them to brew the teas and I place them in clean water while I'm feeding. Then I dump some bleach in to clean and soak. They have brown slime covering them after 8 hours brewing. I had rot in my hydro too. Maybe that's why they're still dirty despite bleaching. I heard you're supposed to use muratic acid.

 

[tleaf jr.]

well that's your prob you should have separate stones , to prevent cross contamination ...the brown slime maybe be harmless though from the brew

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

I was thinking of buying an mass quantity of cheapo stones and just replace them

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

Z-7 is supposed to kill even that brown slime. The thread is looking great, nice to watch progress!

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

thanks spaceman spliff! I thought you were MIA for a second! how do you think Z7 would effect the microbiology and worms? I can't hurt the worms. grumpy man told me that earth worms die if you cut them in half. I told him that now I have to forage through my bed now with gloves thanks to him.

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

I think it would be fine to soak them in Z-7 instead of bleach, bleach is much harsher than Z-7. Worms also mate every time they come in contact with each other so leave them in a pile and feed them often.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

This is what I found at transplant today.

Peace SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

those look great!! thought you were saying to add it to my tea. the worms are all in my bed. probably over a 100 at LEAST! I can dig some out and add them to another bed I'm about to set up with some Animal Cookies.

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

i also read that you can lure them with a banana peel or bread slice. i should read up on that before I'm over flowing with worms. none have abandoned ship thus far so they must be happy and fucking in that soil. at least someone is getting laid around here

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

one weeks growth since buying the week old clone.

one weeks growth since buying the week old clone.

EDIT: She's actually almost two weeks old in this picture since I took her home. They were delivered at the dispensary on 6/23. I over watered the first one so I bought another one a week later.
the week old clone was nicely rooted from sitting at the dispensary for about a week since I purchase one the day they came in. Dream Berry was about 3 inches tall and now she is around 11 inches. I started off her feeding alfalfa meal, ewc, neptunes fish fertilizer, yucca, calcitic lime to help raise pH to at least 5. the fish brings it down so low to around 4. I would then water her with yucca, ful-power fulvic, and ewc. She has also gotten a few foliar sprays of nitrozyme, and also Biomin Calcium on separate occasions but never together. I took ppm measurements of the brews before and after brewing. ppms started low at around 400 truncheon and increased up to around 700 ppms. I've now added alfalfa as a top mulch from a bale I got at the feed store. this really helped the top soil stay moist for my red wigglers. So now that I had the alfalfa as top mulch, I didn't add it to my tea and instead used seabird guano 12-10-2 with molasses for added potassium and yucca. gotta love the yucca.

I should also remind people that these girls are on a 12/1 gas lantern veg cycle to save money and help initiate early flowering. I will then use the standard 12/12 bloom afterwards.

I chose alfalfa because there are many studies which show that it increases yield due to the plants extracts providing TRIA, a natural plant growth hormone.
"Triacontanol (TRIA) is a natural plant growth regulator found in epicuticular waxes. It is used to enhance the crop production in millions of hectares, particularly in Asia. Quite a number of researchers have reported the TRIA-mediated improvement in growth, yield, photosynthesis, protein synthesis, uptake of water and nutrients, nitrogen-fixation, enzymes activities and contents of free amino acids, reducing sugars, soluble protein, and active constituents of essential oil in various crops. Expectedly, TRIA enhances the physiological efficiency of the cells and, thus, exploits the genetic potential of plant to a large extent. In fact, TRIA increased free amino acids, reducing sugars, and soluble protein of rice (Oryza sativa L.) and maize (Zea mays L.) within 5 min. TRIA elicited the appearance of L(+)-adenosine within 1 min in the roots of plants, the shoots of which were sprayed with nanomolar concentrations of TRIA. TRIA and octacosanol (OCTA), the primary alcohols, are ubiquitous in the environment. OCTA was reported to inhibit the activity of TRIA in the seedlings of rice (Oryza sativa L.) at equimolar concentrations; and both TRIA and OCTA elicited a second messenger, known as OCTAM and triacontanol second messenger (TRIM), respectively. TRIA rapidly increases the ratio of L(+)- to D(–)-adenosine, probably at the tonoplast. However, it is to be resolved as to how TRIA elicits L(+)-adenosine and what is the source of L(+)-adenosine in plants. Based on known metabolic processes, de novo synthesis of L(+)-adenosine is unlikely, because of the rapidity of the response. TRIA-mediated increase in dry matter production could influence the inter-relationship between primary and secondary metabolism, leading to increased biosynthesis of secondary products. Various studies present strong evidences that application of TRIA applied either to the root medium or to leaves enhanced the growth and yield of vegetables and other crops, including agronomic and horticultural crops as well as medicinal and aromatic crop plants under normal and adverse conditions. However, further investigations are required to elucidate the possible role of TRIA on plant growth regulation, physiological activities and secondary metabolite biosynthesis regarding medicinal and aromatic plants subjected to abiotic stress. The present review covers the pivotal role of TRIA in plant growth and development, its mode of action and its significance in improving the crop productivity and quality of agricultural crops." http://www.researchgate.net/publica..._potent_plant_growth_regulator_in_agriculture

thought I would share the before and after pic for comparison.
BEFORE

[/IMG]

AFTER

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

"However, further investigations are required to elucidate the possible role of TRIA on plant growth regulation, physiological activities and secondary metabolite biosynthesis regarding medicinal and aromatic plants subjected to abiotic stress. "

so if i can't get my environment in a great range, then the TRIA wont work.ight now my room is in the low 70s during night time hours except for a spike in heat the one hour the light comes on to block the bloom signal. the daytime temps vary. we were at a mid-high 70's to start but ive had highs of 90 during the one hour but that's the same temp as outside so I guess I am sorta stuck with this tent 4x8. my other room has AC window banger 12000btu with a raptor dual reflector with a 1000 watt hps and 600 watt mh for bloom with a 1000 for veg mh. it stays fairly regulated with an exhaust hole in the ceiling. I'm going to install a 435 cfm fan when I build the other bed. there will be 3 beds total for my entire operation; dream berry is in one of them. she has a 1000w mh with an adjust a wing s large reflector which lights up the tent well. the dream berry however looks a little stretchy to me so I'm thinking I might put a light on that area to help get the light lower to the bed but am concerned about added heat. I could also hang cfl right above her with a double Y light adapter. you know those crazy set ups you see with 50 adapters somehow directed thru one light socket

"Abiotic stress is defined as the negative impact of non-living factors on the living organisms in a specific environment.[1] The non-living variable must influence the environment beyond its normal range of variation to adversely affect the population performance or individual physiology of the organism in a significant way.[2] Whereas a biotic stress would include such living disturbances as fungi or harmful insects, abiotic stress factors, or stressors, are naturally occurring, often intangible, factors such as intense sunlight or wind that may cause harm to the plants and animals in the area affected. Abiotic stress is essentially unavoidable. Abiotic stress affects animals, but plants are especially dependent on environmental factors, so it is particularly constraining. Abiotic stress is the most harmful factor concerning the growth and productivity of crops worldwide." https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Abiotic_stress.html

 

[tleaf jr.]

careful with the bread for the worms , it has salt , salt kills worms....check out worming 101

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

careful with the bread for the worms , it has salt , salt kills worms....check out worming 101

i think that's where i got that from. definitely the bananas was mentioned multiple times so i will most likely use that. they're only a few cents a peice anyways.

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

ONE WEEK LATER FPE RESULTS. LOOKING VERY LIQUIDY!!

 

[xmobotx]

w/ bananas you need to be certain you use organic bananas. they get hit hard w/ pesticides since people don;t eat the peels. So, you need a no-pesticide banana for the sake of your worms

 

[BayBHuey]

@DoubleDD's, I was reading about tea brewing and read you were using air stones. Not sure if your handy but you can build a small vortex type brewer and eliminate the air stones altogether. Thats what I did and what a difference.

My air stones would end up covered with that slime not allowing any air flow defeating the purpose. The vortex design can eliminate the air stones while maintaining max air flow. I built mine out of a 5 gal bucket. I will be building another one shortly because i can improve on the design. The design I put together builds up a little slime and I feel I can eliminate that by changing a few things.

BayBHuey

 

[Spaceman_Spliff]

I will bring you some bokashi starter. Worms won't eat stuff that is not already breaking down so a stinky bokashi pile is like a magnet for the little fuckers.

Peace, SSSSpaceman SSSpliff

 

[tleaf jr.]

@DoubleDD's, I was reading about tea brewing and read you were using air stones. Not sure if your handy but you can build a small vortex type brewer and eliminate the air stones altogether. Thats what I did and what a difference.

My air stones would end up covered with that slime not allowing any air flow defeating the purpose. The vortex design can eliminate the air stones while maintaining max air flow. I built mine out of a 5 gal bucket. I will be building another one shortly because i can improve on the design. The design I put together builds up a little slime and I feel I can eliminate that by changing a few things.

BayBHuey

she had a vortex going but her pump broke , I think...

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

I had a Venturi water pump. there is an attachment where the tube meets the pump where you can attach an air hose to pump air into the water line.

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

I didn't want to use a 5 gallon bucket as a vortex because the flat bottom makes the air tunnel skinny and not wide enough. I found an amazing DIY for one that is basically the real deal. I should just go buy the stupid blue water jug and make one.

even talks about how to set it up for female or male energy. thought the concept was rather interesting. here's the link to the DIY http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/turbo-vortex.htm

I found the venturi brewer on www.microbeorganics.com where he also give the link to the above diy
http://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_You_Wanna_Build_A_Compost_Tea_Brewer