Doing IT outside, Geurilla style 2010

[rocket high]

hi gs

im going to put weed control fabric on top of my forrest soil to so i know where it is because i'll will forget where i put it next year no doubt ...lol

sod's law with your water bladder ..am sure will need it in the near future

So are you going to make a pen ...? it does work

 

[liquidlight]

Hey GM, if you're thinking of making a permanent fence within the bracken, be warned ... the bracken will die off completely in winter and your fence will be visible if anyone passed nearby it.
If making a compost heap,(a good idea i think) start by making a layer of twigs and branches... the idea being that air can get in and underneath. Then just throw your veggy matter on top ... i'd mainly use leaves if i were you, and some local soil to add bacteria and microorganisms, add lime (not too mutch), ash, manure, and whatever amendments you think will be good (fish blood and bone, ect). Urinate on it also and cover in camoflage plastic.

Also if planning a permanent site, you might consider some hidden buckets to collect water ... they fill up real quick.

 

[gaiusmarius]

hi gs

im going to put weed control fabric on top of my forrest soil to so i know where it is because i'll will forget where i put it next year no doubt ...lol

sod's law with your water bladder ..am sure will need it in the near future

So are you going to make a pen ...? it does work

i did think i was building a fenced area, but it seems i have to think again.

weedcontrol fabric is probably not the best idea for you, as it will make the plants more obvious from the air, no? just get a gps and make way points where ever you plan to grow, after the first few visits you'll be leaving the gps at home.

Hey GM, if you're thinking of making a permanent fence within the bracken, be warned ... the bracken will die off completely in winter and your fence will be visible if anyone passed nearby it.
If making a compost heap,(a good idea i think) start by making a layer of twigs and branches... the idea being that air can get in and underneath. Then just throw your veggy matter on top ... i'd mainly use leaves if i were you, and some local soil to add bacteria and microorganisms, add lime (not too mutch), ash, manure, and whatever amendments you think will be good (fish blood and bone, ect). Urinate on it also and cover in camoflage plastic.

Also if planning a permanent site, you might consider some hidden buckets to collect water ... they fill up real quick.

thanks for the additional tips about the compost, how long will it be till it's usable? also how important is the exact recepy? is chalk as good as lime for ph etc?

glad you mentioned about the bracken dieing off, i will have to check again thoroughly how much a fence would be noticed with out the bracken. i'm not sure but the more i think about it the more i think you can't even see the bracken from the path, or till you actually reach the place where i arrive at the sloped valley of area 2. so maybe i can still do it, i'll just use green plastic plant support netting as fencing material that i can take down every winter and only leave the posts up.

seems bracken is another of those fast growing plants, you'd hardly believe they grew so big in 1 season and the season isn't finished.

 

[liquidlight]

Compost heaps need heat (sunlight). If you made a heap now with just already decomposing leaves from off the gound, some soil and othere stuff, you'd probably be able to use it next spring. If adding manure dont use fresh manure ... get some partially rotted stuff. Don't forget to piss on the heap. Urine contains nitrogen which will help activate the heap and get it rotting down. You can buy all sorts of 'compost activators' and also packets of 'beneficial bacteria' and things from garden shops too. If you can find some garden worms also, even better! Compost heaps can tend to become too acidic, which is why we add some lime.

Where i live the bracken doesn't even appear until the end of May-begining of June and then by the end of june its 4 or 5 foot tall! Amazing stuff! (it's NOT good for compost heaps though sadly LOL ... doesn't rot down fast enough). Oh, i think chalk would be ok.... don't start worrying about the recipe. Oh i nearly forgot. Nettles! They'd go well on a compost heap. You might have to discard unrotted nettle stems next year though... unless you strip the leaves now of course. You could throw all of your old coir/coco fibre on it too!

 

[straintester]

Making your own compost can be tricky and very time consuming. Using compost that isn't quite composted yet can burn your root system.

Yeah laying is the best way , as compost piles use heat not only from the sun but from the layers of things you add. You can actually have a compost pile decompose in the middle of winter with steam coming from the top if you stuck a stick through the middle. The thing is this can be very complex stuff. A good idea might be to do a google search on how to make proper compost bins or piles. Buddy is right in that it might cause some attention but if you are a regular gardener, many have them so there is nothing unusual about them.

Another thing I suggest is trying your local garbage dumps.
It might sound unusual but many of these places recycle and have either free compost or close to free. The only bad thing is you will get some weed seeds and such in it and you don't know for certain what is in it but for the most part, these people do a good job at making it. Its certainly a cheaper alternative to purchaing it.

My best guerilla grow plants that were done at the edge of forests as the root systems from the trees interfered with my plants too much and there just wasn't enough light.
Plus i found the bigger the hole i dug and the more compost and such i added, the better they did. Compost and such retains a lot of moisture which helps them greatly.
I also discovered that it is not a good idea to add bloodmeal and such too close to the top as many animals will be tempted to dig up your plants due to the smell alone.


Good luck to you.
Your pictures brought back many fond memories of my own so thank you.

 

[liquidlight]

Using compost that isn't quite composted yet can burn your root system

... only if it contains too mutch lime or unrotted manures.

Thats all great info Straintester but GM is wanting to make a geurilla compost heap... meaning he needs to use as mutch stuff from nearby his grow as possible ie, leaves and nettles and a little of the local soil. His coco and perlite is lightweight so can be carried in without too mutch difficulty, not mutch manure would be needed and other addidives are lightweight too. As long as you can find enough half rotted leaves and scrapings off the ground, GM, i think it's doable. Oh, i once used 'calcified seaweed' for a grow, like lime, it'll adjust your PH upwards but it's not as potent as lime and contains all sorts of good stuff.

 

[straintester]

... only if it contains too mutch lime or unrotted manures.

Thats all great info Straintester but GM is wanting to make a geurilla compost heap... meaning he needs to use as mutch stuff from nearby his grow as possible ie, leaves and nettles and a little of the local soil. His coco and perlite is lightweight so can be carried in without too mutch difficulty, not mutch manure would be needed and other addidives are lightweight too. As long as you can find enough half rotted leaves and scrapings off the ground, GM, i think it's doable. Oh, i once used 'calcified seaweed' for a grow, like lime, it'll adjust your PH upwards but it's not as potent as lime and contains all sorts of good stuff.

Yeah sorry......
I got my lines crossed and thought of what I did instead of what the question was and made it more complicated than ever.

I think I was a little too high when I wrote it
When I did my guerilla grows I carried everything in except for dried leaves and such and this I found was the most difficult part

 

[plough]

hey plough,

welcome back buddy, your plants are looking real good. i saw the clones, hope that works lol, i guess there is no reason why it shouldn't. i would have put a glass of water or plastic bottle of water for them to root into, but i suppose the soil should work too.

your plants are well camo'ed, specially compared to mine lol. i see you are using the thicker areas of local plant growth to help stop the deer and stacking old branches around a bit? seems to be working so far. good job m8....

I don't know I'm sort of noiding out about it. I'm afraid it's going to be very obvious in October. Ialso don't like being away from them and thinking it might get traced back to me somehow. I'm considering a move on-site, it might actually work out that way so that'll be interesting.
I went back about two days after that and they were still pretty good, for the most part. I was shocked! But we've been getting a few showers over the past couple of days. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but that means lugging in even more soil! Lugging soil feels conspicuous.

Anyway I'm just kicking it with ya. Catch you on the flip-flop.

 

[~Shhh~]

W'sup GM, how are these outdo' gals of yours coming along... Enquiring minds want to know

 

[rocket high]

hi GM ... hows the girl's doing ?????

 

[plough]

My doc told me you have 48 hrs. before a tic can infect you. I had a fever for a couple of days, up to 103, even 105 (digital thermo, no idea of accuracy). I had classic Lyme symptoms, the bullseye rash, etc.
I think it's been 48 hrs. No black helicopters. I heard a twig snap. Bugged. Took a thorough shower today around 9p. I think I'm good. A camera's got to stick-out like a sore thumb, eh?

 

[gaiusmarius]

Compost heaps need heat (sunlight). If you made a heap now with just already decomposing leaves from off the gound, some soil and othere stuff, you'd probably be able to use it next spring. If adding manure dont use fresh manure ... get some partially rotted stuff. Don't forget to piss on the heap. Urine contains nitrogen which will help activate the heap and get it rotting down. You can buy all sorts of 'compost activators' and also packets of 'beneficial bacteria' and things from garden shops too. If you can find some garden worms also, even better! Compost heaps can tend to become too acidic, which is why we add some lime.

Where i live the bracken doesn't even appear until the end of May-begining of June and then by the end of june its 4 or 5 foot tall! Amazing stuff! (it's NOT good for compost heaps though sadly LOL ... doesn't rot down fast enough). Oh, i think chalk would be ok.... don't start worrying about the recipe. Oh i nearly forgot. Nettles! They'd go well on a compost heap. You might have to discard unrotted nettle stems next year though... unless you strip the leaves now of course. You could throw all of your old coir/coco fibre on it too!

thanks for all the extra info on composting. we will see if i get time to actually do the compost heap. my spot 3 is actually a nettle patch, so at least i will begin harvesting the nettle for teas and drying as soil amendment.

Making your own compost can be tricky and very time consuming. Using compost that isn't quite composted yet can burn your root system.

Yeah laying is the best way , as compost piles use heat not only from the sun but from the layers of things you add. You can actually have a compost pile decompose in the middle of winter with steam coming from the top if you stuck a stick through the middle. The thing is this can be very complex stuff. A good idea might be to do a google search on how to make proper compost bins or piles. Buddy is right in that it might cause some attention but if you are a regular gardener, many have them so there is nothing unusual about them.

Another thing I suggest is trying your local garbage dumps.
It might sound unusual but many of these places recycle and have either free compost or close to free. The only bad thing is you will get some weed seeds and such in it and you don't know for certain what is in it but for the most part, these people do a good job at making it. Its certainly a cheaper alternative to purchaing it.

My best guerilla grow plants that were done at the edge of forests as the root systems from the trees interfered with my plants too much and there just wasn't enough light.
Plus i found the bigger the hole i dug and the more compost and such i added, the better they did. Compost and such retains a lot of moisture which helps them greatly.
I also discovered that it is not a good idea to add bloodmeal and such too close to the top as many animals will be tempted to dig up your plants due to the smell alone.


Good luck to you.
Your pictures brought back many fond memories of my own so thank you.

thanks dude, many more good bits of info. the only way for me would be to make the pile out in the woods, so i don't really want to bring heavy stuff there, as i might as well cart earth next year. for this year i might keep it simple and make a nice nettle powder for feeding and amending the earth, while the actual earth i'm hoping to bring in at night with a car all at once. so any compost i make would be as an additive to the soil.

yeah the pics are fun even if the plants are all a bit lanky lol. wish it wasn't so hard to get to the plants so i could take more pics.

... only if it contains too mutch lime or unrotted manures.

Thats all great info Straintester but GM is wanting to make a geurilla compost heap... meaning he needs to use as mutch stuff from nearby his grow as possible ie, leaves and nettles and a little of the local soil. His coco and perlite is lightweight so can be carried in without too mutch difficulty, not mutch manure would be needed and other addidives are lightweight too. As long as you can find enough half rotted leaves and scrapings off the ground, GM, i think it's doable. Oh, i once used 'calcified seaweed' for a grow, like lime, it'll adjust your PH upwards but it's not as potent as lime and contains all sorts of good stuff.

yeah man you got it, the compost heap needs to be made mainly of locally available materials. even so it's probably more realistic to think of making a compost heap to have something to add to any store bought soil, then actually trying to make a compost big enough to make the 500 lt of soil i'll need next year. been planning a night trip with flashlights and a car to get the bags of soil as close as possible, then either cover the 10 bags of 50lt each with some floor coverings and go back at sun up and carry it up to the spot, or try do it at night with lights? for next years soil. we will see, lol. still got time for that decision.

Yeah sorry......
I got my lines crossed and thought of what I did instead of what the question was and made it more complicated than ever.

I think I was a little too high when I wrote it
When I did my guerilla grows I carried everything in except for dried leaves and such and this I found was the most difficult part

no worries man, i'm always glad to learn more, specially when it's about grow related stuff like composts, lol. i hear ya, i think i'll be carrying most everything in too.

I don't know I'm sort of noiding out about it. I'm afraid it's going to be very obvious in October. Ialso don't like being away from them and thinking it might get traced back to me somehow. I'm considering a move on-site, it might actually work out that way so that'll be interesting.
I went back about two days after that and they were still pretty good, for the most part. I was shocked! But we've been getting a few showers over the past couple of days. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but that means lugging in even more soil! Lugging soil feels conspicuous.

Anyway I'm just kicking it with ya. Catch you on the flip-flop.

great to have you along mate, i some times get a bit paranoid too, but i'm pretty sure i have left nothing leading to myself. the one thing i do wonder about is game cameras, lol. makes me paranoid as fuck thinking some game warden finds the grow and stashes a camera to find out who is looking after the plants. thats one reason i'm tempted to set up my own game camera, to see if anyone has fucked with the plants.

weather here has settled down a bit from that great heat wave with regular night rains we had, temps have still been nice though at 25 to 28, but there has been more rain then needed in the last week. hope the sun gets back to high summer again soon

W'sup GM, how are these outdo' gals of yours coming along... Enquiring minds want to know

well to be honest i couldn't tell you what's up at spot 1 and 2 as i haven't been since the day i added 2 plants in area 2. will be going to area 2 very soon as for area 1 there is nothing needs doing there and the less i go the less visible my trail is and the less chance some nosy busy body sees me at the wrong moment. i will be going back to area 2 because i still wish to add another 2 plants in the bracken patch. as they have been vegging for quite a while, they still might produce a few grams even this late.

i did visit area 3 yesterday and gave them a good top dressing of lots of goodies and some chalk. that same night it started raining like crazy, i mean buckets, so all the top dressing should be flushed into the soil now.

hi GM ... hows the girl's doing ?????

as far as i know they are ok, lol. area 3 is doing ok, plants are a bit lanky, but that was to be expected i guess. i never got the nerve together to go back with a saw and chop down a few surrounding trees like i was planning to right at the beginning of planting this spot. maybe i'll still go back and do it

My doc told me you have 48 hrs. before a tic can infect you. I had a fever for a couple of days, up to 103, even 105 (digital thermo, no idea of accuracy). I had classic Lyme symptoms, the bullseye rash, etc.
I think it's been 48 hrs. No black helicopters. I heard a twig snap. Bugged. Took a thorough shower today around 9p. I think I'm good. A camera's got to stick-out like a sore thumb, eh?

oh wow bummer did you get a tick? dude i really hope you are gonna be ok. i also read that the first 24 hours the tick is the least dangerous in terms of transferring anything. make sure you look after yourself man, i got some tick spray that the army uses and it's working great so far.

i would think yu could hide a camera with some thought and maybe climbing a tree, specially if you cameo the camera a bit.

wow this has turned into a long post, will do the pics next.

Thanks all

 

[gaiusmarius]

pics area 3

pics area 3

last time i was at spot 3 the plants were still very small as can be seen in the last pics from spot 3. they have really shot up, trying to get to the light it seems. will be interesting to see what they make of themselves here.








as you can see the nettles we carelessly hacked down to get into spot 3 are now all growing back, so with my new knowledge about nettle tea and dried nettle meal as soil amendment, i will be harvesting them



those fences are 1 meter high, i just hope that's high enough to discourage the deer, as i forgot the wild repellent, lol.

 

[~Shhh~]

It must be a bit of a thrill every time you go check on em bro, not knowing what to expect. Seems that plot 3 is coming along ay, the sure have grown since the last time I seen em anyway.
They look healthy too, is that a lady bug on em in one of the pics?

Looking forward to the other plot pics

 

[Justin_Credible]

plot 3 looks great Gman... i must say tho the 1 meter? hmmm do you know how big the dear get out ur way? Also, what if the deer comes by and eats your cola? Oh man....just stoned as usual and spouting out questions/ideas. Then again...maybe u get stoned and read this and come up with even cooler ideas. Nice job.

 

[007.]

Hey man. I've got deer woes in my neck of the woods too. Lost 12 plants (100% of the site) to deer within 1 week before I started using chicken wire. Your chicken wire seems far more light blocking though. It almost looks like plastic. Don't you think some spray-painted metal chicken wire would allow more light through?

I only think it might be a concern because it looks like your plants have some real stretch to them. Do you think light could be the issue?

 

[Guest129216]

Looking awesome Gaius. Not so stealth though, he he. Hope it's a real rural area. You sure did a lot work with those cages. Hmmmm. Me and you always seem to talk alot about how much work eachother did lol. Living is working and working is living I think. We can rest when we die. Or after harvest. he he.

as you can see the nettles we carelessly hacked down to get into spot 3 are now all growing back, so with my new knowledge about nettle tea and dried nettle meal as soil amendment, i will be harvesting them

Nettle soup has had a real comeback here. They ate it alot during the war and in the old days. It's not too bad actually.

 

[rocket high]

hi GS
looking good GS.... let's hope the deer dont bother them.
More sun maybe need to get them thick and strong ..

Thats my first outdoor nearly done woo hoo ..the fast bud's are coming down this monday coming and the big devil's wont be long after that ... all my mistakes ive made this year will be rectified next year ...so i hope for a good one

Iam getting ready for next year ...so am going to make a compost heap like you and will need 500l of soil ...i can get load's of nettles for plenty of nitrogen but there's no comfrey growing here so what can i use as a replacement ?

 

[THC123]

nice work on the fences , won't this make the plants stick out?

our frisians should begin flowering within max 14 days

 

[STUPPA]

Hi gaius i've been lurking and sneaking a peek LOL thought i better show my face . Looks like a real picturesque spot you've found there for your plants , noting like that round my way unfortunately .
Nice to see the plants are still going strong dude , good luck with the rest of the grow . Any estimates on when they could be ready?