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DIY Samsung F-Series array and 2 Migro Aray 2 arrays

ChemDogLover

Active member
I'm late for work, but I swear I know them from my searches. They are rather expensive, and the output is stated differently at different stores. I pay half that, for the same thing, if they really are 5000lumen. I think they may be under 4000..

I will check later
Cool, I get them tomorrow. I hope they aren’t 4000k. If so I will send them back as 4000k isn’t gonna help.

I may spend the money for the kelvin add-on for the Photone app. Can cancel subscription any time. Would be cool the check all of my lights including my veg lights. I have some 6500k led strips over some plants in veg and they love it. Those I would like to check the kelvin rating for sure.

In reading the questions on Amazon i discovered they are indeed 40w per strip. So if they are 5000k then at $13.33 per strip (includes driver for each strip and can be daisy chained) I don’t think that’s a terrible price.
 

ChemDogLover

Active member
So for $5.46 a month I unlocked the Pro features on Photone. Can cancel anytime. The Kelvin readings are as follows:

T5 flourescents

IMG_1158.png


LED strips (manufacturer claims 6500k), in reality

IMG_1157.png


DIY F-Series

IMG_1163.png


Migro Aray 2

IMG_1159.png
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Cool, I get them tomorrow. I hope they aren’t 4000k. If so I will send them back as 4000k isn’t gonna help.

I may spend the money for the kelvin add-on for the Photone app. Can cancel subscription any time. Would be cool the check all of my lights including my veg lights. I have some 6500k led strips over some plants in veg and they love it. Those I would like to check the kelvin rating for sure.

In reading the questions on Amazon i discovered they are indeed 40w per strip. So if they are 5000k then at $13.33 per strip (includes driver for each strip and can be daisy chained) I don’t think that’s a terrible price.
In my rush, I didn't notice the $30 ticket was a multipack. The price is right for a 4ft, but without that branding, it's 40w 4400lm. A few sellers have them. It's workable, but I'm not sure they have much future. These fittings usually have two strips, that sit on the sides of a Triangular heatsink. It's a bad description, but with the pic it should make sense.
If you look at most LEDs they have perhaps a 120 degree viewing angle. The light is still mostly coming out within about 45 degrees. This light design wants to go on your kitchen roof, and light your walls to the top. This is at odds with the beam angle we would like. Ideally we would want a flat Alloy profile. This is quite a lossy design, for your use.
I have been weighing this up for a project. If that 110lm/w is as useful as 80lm/w, then the strips you are used to dealing with, can do their work with half the power.
4 of these, costs $50-55
The equal that light, would need 80w.
The $11 bridgelux runs just under 30w without heatsink, I read. A 55w Osram driver is $30 and offers a few output levels. You really wanted that to be 70w not 55, but power use and heat created, are halved.
The 75w driver is a few dollars less. Again 4 brightness levels. 1.6a max, so 800mA a strip, but the strip is 700mA rated, and where people use them without a heatsink. It's 1.4 max. If you have some metal, the 60w (1.2a) driver is cheaper still, at under $25. Making a 60w light, that works like 3 of the kitchen lights, For less money. Though you need to have the metal already. The strip has it's LEDs in a single row, so a bit of thermal epoxy would have them on a copper plumbing pipe.
They will do though. I'm more puzzled by you buying grow lights, not bloom. It's a consistent result, the cool whites not for flowering. It will work, but then you use warm, and it's better
 

ChemDogLover

Active member
In my rush, I didn't notice the $30 ticket was a multipack. The price is right for a 4ft, but without that branding, it's 40w 4400lm. A few sellers have them. It's workable, but I'm not sure they have much future. These fittings usually have two strips, that sit on the sides of a Triangular heatsink. It's a bad description, but with the pic it should make sense.
If you look at most LEDs they have perhaps a 120 degree viewing angle. The light is still mostly coming out within about 45 degrees. This light design wants to go on your kitchen roof, and light your walls to the top. This is at odds with the beam angle we would like. Ideally we would want a flat Alloy profile. This is quite a lossy design, for your use.
I have been weighing this up for a project. If that 110lm/w is as useful as 80lm/w, then the strips you are used to dealing with, can do their work with half the power.
4 of these, costs $50-55
The equal that light, would need 80w.
The $11 bridgelux runs just under 30w without heatsink, I read. A 55w Osram driver is $30 and offers a few output levels. You really wanted that to be 70w not 55, but power use and heat created, are halved.
The 75w driver is a few dollars less. Again 4 brightness levels. 1.6a max, so 800mA a strip, but the strip is 700mA rated, and where people use them without a heatsink. It's 1.4 max. If you have some metal, the 60w (1.2a) driver is cheaper still, at under $25. Making a 60w light, that works like 3 of the kitchen lights, For less money. Though you need to have the metal already. The strip has it's LEDs in a single row, so a bit of thermal epoxy would have them on a copper plumbing pipe.
They will do though. I'm more puzzled by you buying grow lights, not bloom. It's a consistent result, the cool whites not for flowering. It will work, but then you use warm, and it's better
Sorry, just saw this very late at night and I’m pretty high. I’m going to read it over again in the morning.

I can say the reason is because I wanted to add more blue light to the array to get closer to full spectrum lighting.

Also after checking the par on my DIY array I wasn’t that impressed. From 6” away I was only reading 400-500 ppfd. I assumed and maybe incorrectly that the additional light would help to raise that.
 

ChemDogLover

Active member
Got the new lights

All Lights on the DIY array are now. So it improved all the numbers. Lights are roughly 8” away.
 

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ChemDogLover

Active member
I'm late for work, but I swear I know them from my searches. They are rather expensive, and the output is stated differently at different stores. I pay half that, for the same thing, if they really are 5000lumen. I think they may be under 4000..

I will check later


Here are the new lights from Amazon, not 5000k, not 4000k either
 

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Ca++

Well-known member
I like how you got the 2' in there.
Do you think there might be something off with your array? If you have a build thread with the wiring diagram, I would be happy to look over it.

The add I saw for them lights had a 400K tolerance. If they used the specs from the individual LEDs, not the light unit as supplied, They were probably 5000K. The extra shift to the red, is the cover taking power away.
 

ChemDogLover

Active member
I like how you got the 2' in there.
Do you think there might be something off with your array? If you have a build thread with the wiring diagram, I would be happy to look over it.

The add I saw for them lights had a 400K tolerance. If they used the specs from the individual LEDs, not the light unit as supplied, They were probably 5000K. The extra shift to the red, is the cover taking power away.
I’m off to work I’ll have to look into this later.

The 2 footers are UVB lights which I use briefly in flowering.

Are you saying the plastic cover over the LEDs is causing the shift in colors?
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Yes, take the covers off if you can. The very best covers, that you can clearly see though, are loosing 10% of your light. Prismatic would just send light in the wrong directions. If it's not clear, it's a 20% loss if it's good. We seen to see 30% lost to covers, in the cfl vs led debate thread.

Getting through uses energy, and a photon with less energy, has a longer wavelength.
 

ChemDogLover

Active member
Yes, take the covers off if you can. The very best covers, that you can clearly see though, are loosing 10% of your light. Prismatic would just send light in the wrong directions. If it's not clear, it's a 20% loss if it's good. We seen to see 30% lost to covers, in the cfl vs led debate thread.

Getting through uses energy, and a photon with less energy, has a longer wavelength.
I will look into that this evening thanks
 

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