Distinguished and Nurtured Kind

[dank.frank]

New carbon filters will be here soon. I needed those to actually quit pretending like I was ever going to complete a cycle. My last filter was giving out when FAM95 was drying...LAST SUMMER. Room build out last winter gave me a lot more flower space. Had room for 8. Now room for 31. Scaling up - had always required more carbon to keep it quiet. It's on the way.

Plants are due for transplant, but they are already stinking a bit too much for my liking...a great thing, but a security risk all the same.

Have a round of cuts of the Blue Dream x TK (Dream Kush pheno) under a dome in rapid rooters. They should be shooting roots within the next 5 days I hope. Took another round of cuts of the Topsail Haze this evening. They have been hardened off and are ready to go under a dome tonight.

I cut the topsail mother back by about 70% today. Really trying to let her focus her energy on producing a smaller number of healthy branches, vs being a huge bush. She grows so rapidly, it can be easy to turn a blind eye an next thing you know it's a massive weak bush again. Keep in mind, the mother is the original seed plant - and has suffered all sorts of aliments due to my own neglect. Getting HEALTHY cuts, has been a bit of a challenge once stem rot set in. She has recovered from that, but her vigor can still be to her detriment right now. I really need to get this round of cuts, to give me a new healthy rooted plant, to make a new mother with.

Caribbean Creme and [Oreoz x (WC F2 x KM11) are all due for transplant and will likely be ready for 12/12 in about 2 weeks.

I'm getting excited. I haven't fucked up and flaked out yet. Just need to stay focused. A lot of things in life hinge on this run.



dank.Frank

 

[Mattbho]

Did my cookies n cream cut outside again. 3rd year for this rubbermaid diy sip filled with your mix. Finally got her to finish in s.ontario . Soil needs work for next season . Check out the reds !!! Got 3 plants down (c+c , dosidos and death Bubba) turns out a neighbour wanted to grow a male . Gotta be 5k seeds

 

[dank.frank]

Did my cookies n cream cut outside again. 3rd year for this rubbermaid diy sip filled with your mix. Finally got her to finish in s.ontario . Soil needs work for next season . Check out the reds !!! Got 3 plants down (c+c , dosidos and death Bubba) turns out a neighbour wanted to grow a male . Gotta be 5k seeds

She really puts on the frost. Can tell by the way those fans glisten. Hate to hear it all got seeded. That's a huge bummer. Glad the mix is working out for you!

I wasn't aware you were keeping a cookies n cream pheno. What do you like about her so much that you have kept here around for 3 years? How's the smoke and terps?

Guess I'm on the right track with my line of thinking. I'm hoping to get this round of clones to root - vegged out a bit, then I'll be starting the Cream d' Mint from Exotic.

If everything goes well these next few months, I hope to find myself in a legal, errrrr, I mean a "regulated" state, with a small homemade green house and few 100 gallon outdoor girls.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

So, after talking with a buddy, I've decided to finally implement a new style of IPM that will be effective for both mold and mildews as well as all sorts of various pests.

I was told use SuffOil-X (horticultural white mineral oil) + Mil-Stop (potassium bicarbonate), as a dunk to ensure full coverage. I know it works as I've been in this growers garden and things were top tier and in order. These products are made by BioWorks and they provide cannabis specific usage rates.

SuffOil-X, (80% oil, 20% inert) when used on most traditional agricultural crops is used at a rate of 1-2% v/v. That means if you have a gallon, 128 oz, then you would use 2.56 fl oz of SuffOil-X to have an effective application. However, they suggest you use 1.25 fl oz (37ml, 2.5 tbsp) for cannabis specific applications.

Apparently, these types of oils can clog the pores of cannabis leaves and kill the plant if applied to heavily.

Mil-Stop (85% potassium bicarbonate, 15% inert) is used at 1/2-1tbsp per gallon depending on the intensity of the issue. Lower rates for preventative application and higher rates for active, heavy infections.

-----------------------

I was trying to save on shipping and wanted to get everything in a single purchase, so bought comparative products. This resulted in me purchasing:

JMS Stylet Oil (97.1% horticultural white mineral oil, 2.9% inert). The recommended usage rate to be effective on most crops is 3 tbsp per gallons. If following the guidelines of SuffOil-X, which is basically half the recommended guidelines for other crops, it would be fair to say the recommended application rate would be between 1.25tbsp and 1.5 tbsp per gallon. (0.625 fl oz - .75oz)

SuffOil-X and JMS Stylet Oil share - CAS No. 64742-55-8.

I was unable to get Mil-Stop from the same shipping source so substituted it with Certis Carb-O-Nator.

Certis does not provide cannabis specific applications, but...

Mil-Stop - CAS No. 298-14-6
Carb-O-Nator - CAS No. 298-14-6

They are both 85% potassium bicarbonate and 15% inert. Same product.

This means I can use Carb-O-Nator, with the cannabis specific application rate of 1/2 tbsp - 1tbsp per gallon, depending on the disease pressure.

---------------------------------------------------

So, the plan, is to take a food grade 5 gallon bucket with a lid that has a rubber gasket to keep it properly sealed when not in use. The mix of Stylet Oil and Carb-O-Nator, can be used for at least up to year. This mixture, will be used as a preventative IPM strategy at several key moments while transitioning plants along different phases of growth. When in use, a battery operated drill with a paint mixer will be used once every 10 minutes to keep the horticultural white mineral oil properly dispersed and the potassium bicarbonate evenly suspended.

Rather than spraying plants and having a one time use application, I will use the 5 gallon bucket solution to dunk the plants and when done, will place the lid back on and seal it up until it's needed again.

Taking clones - dunk.
Rooted clones before being planted - dunk.
Transplant into next container - dunk.
Transplant into flower - dunk.

You get the idea. This should effectively ensure that mold, mildew and all soft bodied insects never have a chance to take hold and cause any issues in the garden. This also allows you to save a ton of money.

All credit to the tech goes to @gmanwho . I can't thank him enough for sharing this with me. It's really a game changer when it comes to keeping IPM affordable and consistent.

It's time to get serious about growing again. I'm done screwing around. A proper IPM is an important step in the right direction. I'm excited to get this implemented and get things back on the right track.



dank.Frank

 

[gmanwho]

So, after talking with a buddy, I've decided to finally implement a new style of IPM that will be effective for both mold and mildews as well as all sorts of various pests.

I was told use SuffOil-X (horticultural white mineral oil) + Mil-Stop (potassium bicarbonate), as a dunk to ensure full coverage. I know it works as I've been in this growers garden and things were top tier and in order. These products are made by BioWorks and they provide cannabis specific usage rates.

SuffOil-X, (80% oil, 20% inert) when used on most traditional agricultural crops is used at a rate of 1-2% v/v. That means if you have a gallon, 128 oz, then you would use 2.56 fl oz of SuffOil-X to have an effective application. However, they suggest you use 1.25 fl oz (37ml, 2.5 tbsp) for cannabis specific applications.

Apparently, these types of oils can clog the pores of cannabis leaves and kill the plant if applied to heavily.

Mil-Stop (85% potassium bicarbonate, 15% inert) is used at 1/2-1tbsp per gallon depending on the intensity of the issue. Lower rates for preventative application and higher rates for active, heavy infections.

-----------------------

I was trying to save on shipping and wanted to get everything in a single purchase, so bought comparative products. This resulted in me purchasing:

JMS Stylet Oil (97.1% horticultural white mineral oil, 2.9% inert). The recommended usage rate to be effective on most crops is 3 tbsp per gallons. If following the guidelines of SuffOil-X, which is basically half the recommended guidelines for other crops, it would be fair to say the recommended application rate would be between 1.25tbsp and 1.5 tbsp per gallon. (0.625 fl oz - .75oz)

SuffOil-X and JMS Stylet Oil share - CAS No. 64742-55-8.

I was unable to get Mil-Stop from the same shipping source so substituted it with Certis Carb-O-Nator.

Certis does not provide cannabis specific applications, but...

Mil-Stop - CAS No. 298-14-6
Carb-O-Nator - CAS No. 298-14-6

They are both 85% potassium bicarbonate and 15% inert. Same product.

This means I can use Carb-O-Nator, with the cannabis specific application rate of 1/2 tbsp - 1tbsp per gallon, depending on the disease pressure.

---------------------------------------------------

So, the plan, is to take a food grade 5 gallon bucket with a lid that has a rubber gasket to keep it properly sealed when not in use. The mix of Stylet Oil and Carb-O-Nator, can be used for at least up to year. This mixture, will be used as a preventative IPM strategy at several key moments while transitioning plants along different phases of growth. When in use, a battery operated drill with a paint mixer will be used once every 10 minutes to keep the horticultural white mineral oil properly dispersed and the potassium bicarbonate evenly suspended.

Rather than spraying plants and having a one time use application, I will use the 5 gallon bucket solution to dunk the plants and when done, will place the lid back on and seal it up until it's needed again.

Taking clones - dunk.
Rooted clones before being planted - dunk.
Transplant into next container - dunk.
Transplant into flower - dunk.

You get the idea. This should effectively ensure that mold, mildew and all soft bodied insects never have a chance to take hold and cause any issues in the garden. This also allows you to save a ton of money.

All credit to the tech goes to @gmanwho . I can't thank him enough for sharing this with me. It's really a game changer when it comes to keeping IPM affordable and consistent.

It's time to get serious about growing again. I'm done screwing around. A proper IPM is an important step in the right direction. I'm excited to get this implemented and get things back on the right track.



dank.Frank

hey hey, my real goto has been the M-pede instead of suffoil x. and like u stated, finding that happy ratio where it doesn't clog the stomata an kill off the leaves. Suffoil seemed to produce a plant stall after the dipping. The m-pede seemed to not have a stall at 15mill per gal ive been using some years now. ( but then again if fighting broad mites, i think suffoil maybe a better choice, i beat them with suffoil-x)

Dip Every 2 weeks when plants are manageable, and transplants. You'd be surprised how big of a plant u can fit into a 5 gal of dip. i have a pic somewhere of a 6ft mom, with atleast 3ft x 4ft lollipop top i corkscrewed into the bucket of dip. (remove lowers that dont get in contact with dip).

Or Fog them when u cant dip. even up to day 7-10 flower.

sometimes i just mix up a fresh quart size container full of dip for freshly rooted clones. This way i know there is not a high bacterial or fungal count in the solution. We wouldn't want to expose new clones to high density pathogens.


Then after a harvest i clean the room debris and remove all stakes an unnecessary objects, vacuum, spray down and wipe everything with bleach water. Run the ozone generator for an hour or 2, and next morning replant. or in 4-5hrs it can be done.

(Throw out all bamboo or wooden stakes, get all plastic coated stakes. Cover all wood with white poly. clean every flat or horizontal surface.)

also instead of a drill and mixer bit, drop a small 150-200gph $13 mag pump in the dip bucket. Provides a constant mixing even when dunking.

I also pre flip the plant container over a trash bin to remove the loose debri. I then place a plastic bag over the top of the container ontop of the medium, flip the plant, then dip.

Larger containers I then use a rigid piece of bubble foam insulator wrap over the container. Wrap has to be bigger then the container so it folds down the sides of the container. I cut a slit in the bubble wrap to allow the plant stalk to pass thru. I then push the bubble wrap down the sides of the container and bungee cord in a circle to hold it there. wrap kinda turns into a drum skin and holds back MOST of the medium.

The medium falling into the dip can be a problem, so grab a fine mesh aquarium net and use it to retrieve the fallen medium and leaf material. on a regular basis

One of the Biggest things ive noticed when dipping is some plants have a higher oil content on their leaf then others. so it repels the water(M-pede i think is a surfactant, so not sure if the other oils u have act as a surfactant, so u may need to add) u can immediately see when u start the dip process where the dip is rejected.

The most noticeable rejection is the top of the leaf surface, then the "air pockets" that form on the leaf backside between the vascular system and the "meat " of the leaf. So with that in mind i may dip twice in one session. dip them all once, then go back and do it again. The plant leaf surface accepts the 2nd dip session better then the first go around. Always a few repetitive dunks of the plant in each session. The magic happens at the dip surface, when the meniscus drags as the leaf is leaving the solution. Here is where you will see the vascular air pockets forming. No bueno, there could be eggs in that missed area. So i feel its important to mention. In and out of the dip over and over till u dont see those air pockets any more. Easier to notice once its realized that these missed areas are a lighter green then the rest of the leaf that accepted the dip.


hopefully some of that made sense. i'll go back and edit in abit. my brain hurts.

 

[dank.frank]

Finally got my signature fixed and back to how it's supposed to be.... I like using that particular image because it was made by Phillthy.

My standard IPM has been a mix of three different products which gave 3 different modes of action. Works very well, but I ran out of Azamax a bit ago and needed to fix that.

2 Tbps per gallon - Azamax - (1.2% Azadirachtin)
4 Tbps per gallon - Monterery Garden Insect Spray - (0.5 % mixture of Spinosyn A and Spinosyn D)
3 Tbsp per gallon - Pyganic Crop Protection EC 1.4 II - (1.4% Pyrethrins)

So instead of getting more Azamax - I went with:

Neemix - (4.5% Azadirachtin) - 1/4-1/2 tsp per gallon - a much more concentrated product.

The other issue I've ran into lately, my main source of beneficial and mycorrhizae - has ceased production. I still have not found a product to fully replace it, that is as complete nor as affordable.

Decided to try BioOrganics Mycorrhizal Inoculant Plus.

It's a blend of endo, ecto, and beneficial bacteria. It's bit annoying as cannabis doesn't utilize ecto in any form, but it's the only product I could find that uses both Endo and the general batch of various beneficial bacillus strains I like to see in a mix. I wish it had some added trichoderma as well, but finding as complete a mix as I was using seems to next to impossible. This will certainly be better than using nothing at all.

All these items should be here before things get transplanted into their final containers for flower. Gearing up for a good cycle. It feels good to start getting more serious again - and getting back on track with the right tools is the best way to ensure success.



dank.Frank

 

[flower~power]

fp uses lost coast plant therapy… once a week…works like charm ..There’s more than one way to skin a cat

 

[dank.frank]

@gmanwho - thank you for the additional, in detail, response and clarifications. Much appreciated, brother.

@flower~power - thank you for sharing. Noted.



dank.Frank

 

[flower~power]

feel like I’m sitting in 12 step meeting…” thank u for sharing “ …Frank you need to know that ️ likes to mess around and seek humor wherever he can find it…

 

[dank.frank]

It's more than welcome. I know your old handle and know your posting style. You won't be offending anyone by being yourself.

I've always been a bit more...on the serious, stick in the mud...side of things, the "you must be real fun at parties" type of guy. LOL.

I have a sense of humor, it's usually reserved for smirking and nodding though....



dank.Frank

 

[gmanwho]

Finally got my signature fixed and back to how it's supposed to be.... I like using that particular image because it was made by Phillthy.

My standard IPM has been a mix of three different products which gave 3 different modes of action. Works very well, but I ran out of Azamax a bit ago and needed to fix that.

2 Tbps per gallon - Azamax - (1.2% Azadirachtin)
4 Tbps per gallon - Monterery Garden Insect Spray - (0.5 % mixture of Spinosyn A and Spinosyn D)
3 Tbsp per gallon - Pyganic Crop Protection EC 1.4 II - (1.4% Pyrethrins)

So instead of getting more Azamax - I went with:

Neemix - (4.5% Azadirachtin) - 1/4-1/2 tsp per gallon - a much more concentrated product.

The other issue I've ran into lately, my main source of beneficial and mycorrhizae - has ceased production. I still have not found a product to fully replace it, that is as complete nor as affordable.

Decided to try BioOrganics Mycorrhizal Inoculant Plus.

It's a blend of endo, ecto, and beneficial bacteria. It's bit annoying as cannabis doesn't utilize ecto in any form, but it's the only product I could find that uses both Endo and the general batch of various beneficial bacillus strains I like to see in a mix. I wish it had some added trichoderma as well, but finding as complete a mix as I was using seems to next to impossible. This will certainly be better than using nothing at all.

All these items should be here before things get transplanted into their final containers for flower. Gearing up for a good cycle. It feels good to start getting more serious again - and getting back on track with the right tools is the best way to ensure success.



dank.Frank

For myco I’ve had good luck with Williams wonder, out of pa I think. But that’s gone up in price too. But Damn everything’s gotten overpriced, except the damn Walmart tv’s

Pulled the trigger today on 22 660w 3 channel kingbrite led fixtures. 3 separate meanwell drivers , Samsung lm301h 3500k full spectrum, Cree red 660 & 730, an I think lg makes the uv diodes. All seperate channels. Hopefully not a mistake. $580 a piece to the door.

Fucking power here is supposed to go up another 50% next spring. Right now my delivery an supply is 0.23kwh. Almost Double the price per kWh from my last spot, an that was a $3-4K a month light bill. So I figured nows the time.

Bsafe man!!

 

[flower~power]

Everything goes up (((but the price of weed)))

 

[dank.frank]

For myco I’ve had good luck with Williams wonder, out of pa I think. But that’s gone up in price too. But Damn everything’s gotten overpriced, except the damn Walmart tv’s

Pulled the trigger today on 22 660w 3 channel kingbrite led fixtures. 3 separate meanwell drivers , Samsung lm301h 3500k full spectrum, Cree red 660 & 730, an I think lg makes the uv diodes. All seperate channels. Hopefully not a mistake. $580 a piece to the door.

Fucking power here is supposed to go up another 50% next spring. Right now my delivery an supply is 0.23kwh. Almost Double the price per kWh from my last spot, an that was a $3-4K a month light bill. So I figured nows the time.

Bsafe man!!

So, Wallace Wonder myco is a single species - glomus (Rhizophagus) intraradices. This is the same thing in pro-mix and @Microbeman stated many years ago it may be the only species to populate and form symbiosis with cannabis roots.

BioOrganics Mycorrhizal Inoculant Plus:

Glomus (Rhizophagus) Intraradices
Glomus Mossae
Glomus Etunicatum
Glomus Deserticola

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens
Bacillus Licheniformis
Bacillus Megaterium
Bacillus Pumilus

A lot of the bacillus bacteria are useful in preventing various fungal pathogens, increasing different hormones which induce systemic resistances, convert nutrients into proper ionic forms, etc.

I'm a big believer in beneficial bacteria being effective for increasing soil health as much as I am in mycorrhizae for their effective roles in increasing root health. I'm certain you get a better long term benefit when using such things in soil beds where populations have the ability to self sustain and populate long term vs using pots and containers where the soil / root mass is broken apart after each cycle.

--------------------------------------------

22 lights!?! - Way to go brother!!! That's no small investment. Looking forward to what you get set up!!!
Sounds like a room of FAM95 in your future!

How'd those little ones finish up outside?



dank.Frank

 

[gmanwho]

So, Wallace Wonder myco is a single species - glomus (Rhizophagus) intraradices. This is the same thing in pro-mix and @Microbeman stated many years ago it may be the only species to populate and form symbiosis with cannabis roots.

BioOrganics Mycorrhizal Inoculant Plus:

Glomus (Rhizophagus) Intraradices
Glomus Mossae
Glomus Etunicatum
Glomus Deserticola

Bacillus Subtilis
Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens
Bacillus Licheniformis
Bacillus Megatarium
Bacillus Pumilus

A lot of the bacillus bacteria are useful in preventing various fungal pathogens, increasing different hormones which induce systemic resistances, convert nutrients into proper ionic forms, etc.

I'm a big believer in beneficial bacteria being effective for increasing soil health as much as I am in mycorrhizae for their effective roles in increasing root health. I'm certain you get a better long term benefit when using such things in soil beds where populations have the ability to self sustain and populate long term vs using pots and containers where the soil / root mass is broken apart after each cycle.

--------------------------------------------

22 lights!?! - Way to go brother!!! That's no small investment. Looking forward to what you get set up!!!
Sounds like a room of FAM95 in your future!

How'd those little ones finish up outside?



dank.Frank

I have to check into that bioOrganics product. Still have a bunch of recharge by realgrowers on hand. I just mixed in some with last feeding. i have 10 month old moms in 2 gallon pots start forming beautiful fuzzy surface roots.

My mind is so melted with running down so many rabbit holes. Becoming harder and harder to retain and access whats relevant and not in a given situation. but i do agree, these soil Microbes are a key part of the equation! Trying to get back in the mindset after the move. Speaking of rabbit holes, i would love to mess with a bioreactor, or a similar concept.


Ya the 95 moms are doing well now, still few weeks off before i will be able to take healthy cuttings. Im about to repot a bunch and get them healthier for cuttings. I Lost all the last 95 cuttings i tried to clone. The Moms really didnt have enough health, then cuttings didnt have enough nutrient stored to properly root. I kinda knew it going in, but i tried anyways. then i slacked on my ipm. I got some mites from me being a dumbass, brought in an outside plant without treating.

so im just at the end of week 4 of treating, cut back everything, just starting to improve the mom /veg area. Gonna Add a few cmh lights in there, finish the rubber floor, poly wrap the walls, setup unitstrut for the light hangers. add a few racks, setup a few environmental controllers.... u know the typical. lol

I gotta see what roots next. i did grab 2 tray worth of cuttings from a buddy. some of the clones are just starting to show roots. Whats in the clone trays, and what roots for me are 2 different things. Rootbeer gmo, Josh D OG, OGKB 2.0, Mac, & ChemD are my first choices. So far the MAC is looking first an healthiest. See what happens. Next best mother to clone off are the OGKB2.0 and 92 OG. The 95's are prob 2-3 weeks

the 22 lights is basically 1/3rd of the area i hope to fully utilize. the total barn lower floor is 36'wx40'. then two 12x40 upper levels(could make upper level complete one day and add a center 12x40 floor). One expansion at a time. Or who knows, maybe only run 1/3rd of the barn, or maybe 2/3rds and never go bigger. See where the market is as i move forward.

I figure the upper & lower right of the barn is in the best shape. that upper right area is 12'x40', gonna attempt to setup a 10' ceiling. . Gonna split that floor in half an make 2 flower rooms. Two 8 light flower 12x20 rooms and run them 20-35 days off each other. split up the work load. then use 4 lights for the veg room.

An who knows if im staying here too. this weighs heavy in my decision making after I just got done with that massive teardown, house rehab, and move. what a ride.....

 

[flower~power]

@gmanwho …How long will it take you to recoup the expense of switching over to LED ?

 

[gmanwho]

@gmanwho …How long will it take you to recoup the expense of switching over to LED ?

check dm

 

[Lester Beans]

Hey DF good to see you around. Best vibes for your grow brother.

 

[dank.frank]

Hey DF good to see you around. Best vibes for your grow brother.

Hey, Lester. Glad you are still around. You have an active thread still? Trying to do better at keeping up with everyone who is still here and posting.



dank.Frank

 

[Lester Beans]

2023 Grow Show with Mars Hydro Tents & Lighting

I am starting a little early with the 2023 stuff but I am done with the crap 2022 had to offer lol. The Plan: I have a Mars TSW2000 in a Mars 3.5x3.5 and a Mars FCE3000 in a 4x4 currently vegging Female seeds for cuttings to search for mothers. A good portion of the year will be selecting...

www.icmag.com

Just getting started back up after a hiatus.

I also have some Exotic Genetix going..

Cherry Bang Bang
Ruby Grand
Big League Sherb

 

[dank.frank]

hey hey, my real goto has been the M-pede instead of suffoil x.

LMAO. And the place I order from does carry M-pede. I could have ordered it with everything else...sigh. Guess I have to find another excuse to put in an order...LOL. Thank you for the help, brother.



dank.Frank