N
noyd666
lol well I guess its not funny, beats crying.
Destroy & Rebuild: The Final Chapter - Part 1 (The Planning Phase)
- Thread starter Snype
- Start date
- Status
I've been working for 12 straight hours and I'm not even close to done yet. Snypette packed and emptied 10 tubes today. I still have about 4 hours of work left before I can get to bed. We can't find any saucers for the bottom of the pots that are big enough in any of the stores out here so I have to water 1 plant at a time with a lobster pot. It take about 45 minutes to water each plant so it's really time consuming. So far I finished watering about 4 plants. It's all good though. I'm just happy to be in a house able to continue growing. I guess I can scrape my porch if I run out of weed.
N
noyd666
yep sniffing the boards, I had to buy some big totes and cut down at one stage, but it's all money.
Finally done with work today! It was a long 16.5 hours of work but well worth it! I'm sleeping all day. I didn't even smoke tonight because I didn't want to take the chance of getting sleepy. Time to take some hits out of the Roor and pass out. Snypette has to wake up in 2 hours to handle some other work.
R
Red Berry
kinda like how you feel better after loosing 40k at a casino ?
does we include your new and your old partners or just snypette ?
saying gimmick scammer stuff like that only works good if you whisper it to one person at a time .
ur thinking is backwards .
u didn't lose anything but what you put in.
u need to add up what you spent to make the ounce of oil .
saying what you lost in that way to be dramatic is little kid shit.
I've been concerned about the plants for the last 5 days since they were transplanted into 5 Gallons. The ChemDD's had a wilt to them and I've been trying to figure out what was going on for days. I purposely didn't use perlite because I would have to transplant them into bigger pots or we'd be watering every day. I also know that bigger pots is harder for me to deal with in terms of getting the health that I get in 3 and 5 gallon pots.
I'm not used to doing 4 plants per light in soil so I had to take some things into consideration. Because we need this crop so bad, I used 5 gallon pots because I have lots of experience with them. That experience tells me that because I'm growing bushes, I have to be able to hold more water than my past grows with smaller plants. My past grows we would have to water 5 gallons pots every 2-3 days and that had about 25% perlite in it. I made a decision to not use the extra perlite in the FFOF soil to be able to hold more water in the soil.
This is basically when the problems happened. The plants were coming from 1 gallon pots that needed to be watered every day. The root system was root bound in about a week which was surprising. The 5 Gallon pots hold roughly 4,000 mL of water (if you water slowly over a period of time). Because I didn't add perlite, I added 2 jars fast so that some of the water would run out of the medium because I was scared of saturating them after the transplant and not having enough air because we didn't use any extra perlite.
The day before we transplanted the plants, I also chose to feed the plants because it was obvious they were root bound and had no food. I had no pots to transplant the plants until the next day. I also had to take this into consideration. I have lots of experience with my feed and had to eliminate this from the equation. I also had to eliminate a poor pH of the feed.
I also had to take into account of how low the humidity is out here. I was at 20% humidity and couldn't afford a humidifier. After we moved some oil, we bought one and raised the humidity but it didn't fix the plants. That variable was now eliminated from the equation.
I was starting to get scared and thought I could have a problem that I've never seen like Root Aphids or Broad Mites. Remember these cuts came back to me from other growers who had problems. I wanted to eliminate other known variables first.
I was leaning more toward the perlite issue being the problem but I had to be sure. The plants were also light green on the new shoots. I also wanted to check the run-off pH to see if I can eliminate that. For that test I have to saturate the medium with a full / slow watering. I was only going to perform that test on 1 plant that showed the most wilt. The test showed a pH that was in-line so I could eliminate that variable.
This was also the day that the plants were going to get their first full watering. I chose to only do a full watering on the test run-off plant and wait a few hours to see the results. After a few hours it made sense to give all the plants a full watering.
That was last night and the lights just turned on now and the plants look great! My conclusion? I should have taken more things into account but I also over thought things. I shouldn't have been concerned with the added perlite because 5 gallon pots are not very big and the plants had a great root structure already, coming from 1 gallon pots. If the plants came from smaller pots, then my first watering technique would have been fine but the plants are big and have a root system that needs lots of water.
When I'm trying to figure out a problem, I try to stay as calm as possible and look at each variable individually. I don't like to do things that could affect other variables because it will be harder to form a conclusion and I could end up having other problems. I see some growers see a problem and they hurt them plants by taking so many different actions and because they don't see results in hours, they continue taking multiple actions and hurting their plants further. They also have a much tougher time trying to eliminate individual variables.
I never told you guys the story about the first day of the move here traveling through different states with a car full of plants. I noticed one of the headlights on the car wasn't working so we had to go find a place to get a new one. Luckily we found a store and had it replaced. After that it was a very stressful drive that started in the rain. After a while of driving there was crazy snow. We were seeing cars that went off the highway and were in ditches. I didn't even know if we'd make it all the way to the house but we did and we had to drive very slow so it took a long time.
When we got there we couldn't even get into the driveway because there was too much snow. We had to drive around to find a plow truck and ask the guy if he could plow the drive way so we can move in for the first time. The guy was real nice and plowed the whole place for free. Things were pretty smooth after that but it was a stressful trip.
Tonight I have to transplant the rest of the rooted clones that'll be gong to VEG under CFLs. There's only 12 of them that'll be going to a 2,000-3,000 watt flowering room. The clones consist of:
2 x The White
3 x Pootie Tang
2 x StarDawg#9
2 x Motorbreath#6
2 x Mass Electirc
1 x Alaskan Clone Only
These plants will also be going in pots of FFOF soil. Like I said before, we need guaranteed crops right now so we will wait a few months to see some RDWC grows and the building of the 16,000 watt flowering room.
When Snypette gets back she's bringing some rockwool so we can take more cuts of all the plants in the house. We will probably be taking around 50 cuts and half of those will go into another 4,000 watt flowering room. The room doesn't have to be completed until April 1st because we can fit plenty of lights in other rooms until the winter air is gone. This makes things less stressful as me because I don't have to rush around and can work on projects a little at a time.
I've been labeling all the plants with a "*" or an "x" to note if they are worthy of being chosen as a Mother. Only the fastest rooting, healthiest, greatest vigor and best structured plants are chosen for consideration as MOMS.
I hope you guys are happy to have me back home at IC. I ask that you ignore all haters in my thread. It just adds way too much drama and fucks up the whole thread. Look at them like those street people in A'dam. You know, the ones that ask you to spare a Euro. Once you give them money, they follow you around until you give them more. I made that mistake many times.
I hope you guys are ready for loads of details and pictures! You know I'm going to be getting more guides for IC together as well. I should have a camera soon. It feels like I've been gone for much longer but I'm very happy to be back at home with you guys!
I'm not used to doing 4 plants per light in soil so I had to take some things into consideration. Because we need this crop so bad, I used 5 gallon pots because I have lots of experience with them. That experience tells me that because I'm growing bushes, I have to be able to hold more water than my past grows with smaller plants. My past grows we would have to water 5 gallons pots every 2-3 days and that had about 25% perlite in it. I made a decision to not use the extra perlite in the FFOF soil to be able to hold more water in the soil.
This is basically when the problems happened. The plants were coming from 1 gallon pots that needed to be watered every day. The root system was root bound in about a week which was surprising. The 5 Gallon pots hold roughly 4,000 mL of water (if you water slowly over a period of time). Because I didn't add perlite, I added 2 jars fast so that some of the water would run out of the medium because I was scared of saturating them after the transplant and not having enough air because we didn't use any extra perlite.
The day before we transplanted the plants, I also chose to feed the plants because it was obvious they were root bound and had no food. I had no pots to transplant the plants until the next day. I also had to take this into consideration. I have lots of experience with my feed and had to eliminate this from the equation. I also had to eliminate a poor pH of the feed.
I also had to take into account of how low the humidity is out here. I was at 20% humidity and couldn't afford a humidifier. After we moved some oil, we bought one and raised the humidity but it didn't fix the plants. That variable was now eliminated from the equation.
I was starting to get scared and thought I could have a problem that I've never seen like Root Aphids or Broad Mites. Remember these cuts came back to me from other growers who had problems. I wanted to eliminate other known variables first.
I was leaning more toward the perlite issue being the problem but I had to be sure. The plants were also light green on the new shoots. I also wanted to check the run-off pH to see if I can eliminate that. For that test I have to saturate the medium with a full / slow watering. I was only going to perform that test on 1 plant that showed the most wilt. The test showed a pH that was in-line so I could eliminate that variable.
This was also the day that the plants were going to get their first full watering. I chose to only do a full watering on the test run-off plant and wait a few hours to see the results. After a few hours it made sense to give all the plants a full watering.
That was last night and the lights just turned on now and the plants look great! My conclusion? I should have taken more things into account but I also over thought things. I shouldn't have been concerned with the added perlite because 5 gallon pots are not very big and the plants had a great root structure already, coming from 1 gallon pots. If the plants came from smaller pots, then my first watering technique would have been fine but the plants are big and have a root system that needs lots of water.
When I'm trying to figure out a problem, I try to stay as calm as possible and look at each variable individually. I don't like to do things that could affect other variables because it will be harder to form a conclusion and I could end up having other problems. I see some growers see a problem and they hurt them plants by taking so many different actions and because they don't see results in hours, they continue taking multiple actions and hurting their plants further. They also have a much tougher time trying to eliminate individual variables.
I never told you guys the story about the first day of the move here traveling through different states with a car full of plants. I noticed one of the headlights on the car wasn't working so we had to go find a place to get a new one. Luckily we found a store and had it replaced. After that it was a very stressful drive that started in the rain. After a while of driving there was crazy snow. We were seeing cars that went off the highway and were in ditches. I didn't even know if we'd make it all the way to the house but we did and we had to drive very slow so it took a long time.
When we got there we couldn't even get into the driveway because there was too much snow. We had to drive around to find a plow truck and ask the guy if he could plow the drive way so we can move in for the first time. The guy was real nice and plowed the whole place for free. Things were pretty smooth after that but it was a stressful trip.
Tonight I have to transplant the rest of the rooted clones that'll be gong to VEG under CFLs. There's only 12 of them that'll be going to a 2,000-3,000 watt flowering room. The clones consist of:
2 x The White
3 x Pootie Tang
2 x StarDawg#9
2 x Motorbreath#6
2 x Mass Electirc
1 x Alaskan Clone Only
These plants will also be going in pots of FFOF soil. Like I said before, we need guaranteed crops right now so we will wait a few months to see some RDWC grows and the building of the 16,000 watt flowering room.
When Snypette gets back she's bringing some rockwool so we can take more cuts of all the plants in the house. We will probably be taking around 50 cuts and half of those will go into another 4,000 watt flowering room. The room doesn't have to be completed until April 1st because we can fit plenty of lights in other rooms until the winter air is gone. This makes things less stressful as me because I don't have to rush around and can work on projects a little at a time.
I've been labeling all the plants with a "*" or an "x" to note if they are worthy of being chosen as a Mother. Only the fastest rooting, healthiest, greatest vigor and best structured plants are chosen for consideration as MOMS.
I hope you guys are happy to have me back home at IC. I ask that you ignore all haters in my thread. It just adds way too much drama and fucks up the whole thread. Look at them like those street people in A'dam. You know, the ones that ask you to spare a Euro. Once you give them money, they follow you around until you give them more. I made that mistake many times.
I hope you guys are ready for loads of details and pictures! You know I'm going to be getting more guides for IC together as well. I should have a camera soon. It feels like I've been gone for much longer but I'm very happy to be back at home with you guys!
Snauseberry
Member
Sounds good snype. Im assuming you dont want to let IC knowing what state you are in? Just curious.
Also im surprised you had a humidity issue, im guessing the room is pretty big and the 20 plants/soil wasnt enough? I live in the desert and still have to use a exhaust air to lower humidity.
Glad to have you back. I really hope this works out for you, i enjoy seeing your updates
Also im surprised you had a humidity issue, im guessing the room is pretty big and the 20 plants/soil wasnt enough? I live in the desert and still have to use a exhaust air to lower humidity.
Glad to have you back. I really hope this works out for you, i enjoy seeing your updates
I'm still holding it down in the Northeast. As far as the room, it's small. The room size is 8.5' x 12'. The humidity in my area is so low. I'm cooling the room with 1 x 4" exhaust/intake that is pulling outside winter air into the room. The lights are only set to 750 watts right now until flowering but I added another 4" exhaust and they are both set to a controller that kicks in the intake blower to cool the room to 75F. We have a humidifier in the room and as long as the blower is off, we get our humidity in-line but once the blower kicks in, it brings in the cold winter air inside that ranges from 20-35 rH. I thought the plants in the room would balance it all out but it isn't. Maybe this will all change when the plants get bigger and have buds.
I really hope this works out for me too. As always anything in life can go wrong. I just hope I can get an easy-pass for at least the next year. As far as the grow everything should go smooth but who knows what outside forces are going to come into play and when it will happen. A lot of times it's due to personal risks that I take in life. I enjoy taking risks but I need to calm down. It's really hard when you are stuck in a grow for months/years with no license and no car. It's the story of my life but it keeps life interesting and new. Hopefully I start to make some better decisions now but it's hard to control myself 100% of the time. It's tough rarely being able to see other humans other than Snypette. My mind is fueled by intellectual stimulation that I try to re-fuel here at IC but that only goes so far.
R
Red Berry
U wish u had haters lol... U just copy old routines for controlling workers that are unethical so I disagree with you . playing the mom n pop grow game then flipping to talking like your a solo grower is a scammer move .
Since I'm bored I figured I'd post one of my Reflector tests. This test shows me where to hang my lights so I don't have to retest again. This test was done a few years back at another grow but still relevant to my grows since I still use HydroFarm Radiant Reflectors. This test was done between Radiant Reflectors and Bell Lighting Reflectors. I only used a lumen meter and not a par meter. One day I'll do another test with a par meter and other reflectors as well because I'm not happy with a lot of the other data that I find online. I see too many mistakes that I wouldn't have made.
I started the test by using a 4' x 4' piece of cardboard and made a grid on it. I used cardboard because it is easier to move a piece of cardboard than to keep moving a reflector to find the perfect sweet spot. On the cardboard I made a grid that was spaced every 12". There are 25 points on my grid to take my data. The grid takes into account a 4'x4' growing space. The numbers on the grid go in this order:
01-02-03-04-05
06-07-08-09-10
11-12-13-14-15
16-17-18-19-20
21-22-23-24-25
The first thing that I do is line up the 4 corners so that the data is very similar to each other. Not all reflectors are perfect squares in terms of how you position them.
After the 4 corners are all reading close to each other, I either raise or lower the reflector so that the corners are at the maximum value. As some of you may understand that if the reflector is too low or too high, the data of the corners will decrease. In my opinion, the sweet spot is at the height where the outside corners reach the maximum number. I don't know why reflector companies don't let you know where the sweet spot is so growers will have better results. Most people just use 24" but that's not always the location to take advantage of your reflector.
The sweet spot for the Radiant was 24" above the grid and the sweet spot for the Bell Lighting was at 19". I used Bell Lighting because my friend said they were the best on the market and I wanted to see how it was. The tests show that the Radiant performed better than the Bell Lighting. Here are the results between the Radiant at 24" and the Bell Lighting at 19":
HydroFarm Radiant----Bell Lighting
01. 2180------------------2300
02. 3430------------------3150
03. 3580------------------4010
04. 3660------------------3050
05. 2190------------------2180
06. 3300------------------3400
07. 6140------------------5360
08. 7190------------------6440
09. 6590------------------5240
10. 3270------------------3190
11. 3870------------------3830
12. 7290------------------6650
13. 8430------------------8180
14. 7610------------------6350
15. 3830------------------3600
16. 3180------------------3200
17. 5650------------------5150
18. 6350------------------6120
19. 5860------------------5020
20. 3280------------------3080
21. 1970------------------2220
22. 3290------------------2980
23. 3440------------------3340
24. 3500------------------2910
25. 2140------------------2020
4448.80-----------------4118.80
Note: Tests were done with the same new Lumatek switchable Ballast and new Eye Hortilux Super HPS 1,000 Watt Lamp. Cordsets were on the grid side of #3. Radiant should be hung so that the side of the reflector where the corset is mounted to the reflector, sits parallel to the grid numbers 6-10. That means that side of the reflector is 12" off center of where you would think it would go as well as a height of 24". The reflector is only 17.5" in that direction so a person would think that the reflector was supposed to be mounted in the center but that is not the case. That is the sweet spot for HydroFarm Radiant Reflectors. I plan on testing every reflector that I can find when I can.
I started the test by using a 4' x 4' piece of cardboard and made a grid on it. I used cardboard because it is easier to move a piece of cardboard than to keep moving a reflector to find the perfect sweet spot. On the cardboard I made a grid that was spaced every 12". There are 25 points on my grid to take my data. The grid takes into account a 4'x4' growing space. The numbers on the grid go in this order:
01-02-03-04-05
06-07-08-09-10
11-12-13-14-15
16-17-18-19-20
21-22-23-24-25
The first thing that I do is line up the 4 corners so that the data is very similar to each other. Not all reflectors are perfect squares in terms of how you position them.
After the 4 corners are all reading close to each other, I either raise or lower the reflector so that the corners are at the maximum value. As some of you may understand that if the reflector is too low or too high, the data of the corners will decrease. In my opinion, the sweet spot is at the height where the outside corners reach the maximum number. I don't know why reflector companies don't let you know where the sweet spot is so growers will have better results. Most people just use 24" but that's not always the location to take advantage of your reflector.
The sweet spot for the Radiant was 24" above the grid and the sweet spot for the Bell Lighting was at 19". I used Bell Lighting because my friend said they were the best on the market and I wanted to see how it was. The tests show that the Radiant performed better than the Bell Lighting. Here are the results between the Radiant at 24" and the Bell Lighting at 19":
HydroFarm Radiant----Bell Lighting
01. 2180------------------2300
02. 3430------------------3150
03. 3580------------------4010
04. 3660------------------3050
05. 2190------------------2180
06. 3300------------------3400
07. 6140------------------5360
08. 7190------------------6440
09. 6590------------------5240
10. 3270------------------3190
11. 3870------------------3830
12. 7290------------------6650
13. 8430------------------8180
14. 7610------------------6350
15. 3830------------------3600
16. 3180------------------3200
17. 5650------------------5150
18. 6350------------------6120
19. 5860------------------5020
20. 3280------------------3080
21. 1970------------------2220
22. 3290------------------2980
23. 3440------------------3340
24. 3500------------------2910
25. 2140------------------2020
4448.80-----------------4118.80
Note: Tests were done with the same new Lumatek switchable Ballast and new Eye Hortilux Super HPS 1,000 Watt Lamp. Cordsets were on the grid side of #3. Radiant should be hung so that the side of the reflector where the corset is mounted to the reflector, sits parallel to the grid numbers 6-10. That means that side of the reflector is 12" off center of where you would think it would go as well as a height of 24". The reflector is only 17.5" in that direction so a person would think that the reflector was supposed to be mounted in the center but that is not the case. That is the sweet spot for HydroFarm Radiant Reflectors. I plan on testing every reflector that I can find when I can.
I'm not sure if I told you guys but since I've been at the new farm now for 3 weeks I had time to measure one of the big rooms to see what I'm dealing with. If I make the ceiling height to 9'9", I'll be able to comfortably fit 16,000 watts in the room with 60" centers. That will allow a walk way of 30" around the whole grow so we can get around. It's actually the perfect space for what we are trying to accomplish. The only problem is that I don't know if I can get 2 pound plants with 60" centers but I'm going to give it a shot. I was thinking of making a box SCROG where the top and sides can all be SCROGed with 6" squares. The sides will only be SCROGed down to 2' and this will still allow over 100 x 6" squares. If I can fill the SCROG and average 10 grams per site, I would get 2.2 pounds. Each square doesn't need to yield 10 grams either because there will still be the inside of the plant as well to make up some of the difference. The SCROG box design that I came up with is 42" x 42" to allow room to get in between the plants so we can perform our work. I'm going to do crazy defoliation tests and collect loads of data to find out exactly how to maximize this grow to its fullest potential. In reality I'll be happy if I can get 1.5 pound plants but I'm going to try my best to see if I can get 2 pound plants. I'm not sure if it's a pipe dream but when I compare it to the SCROGed 10 bucket systems, it seems to make sense in my head.
I still don't see myself doing this grow vertically when I look at other vertical grows online. I feel that I'm not going to get the same penetration compared to Gavita's and I want to take full advantage of that extra light that the DE bulbs put out. It's going to be an interesting experience. This time instead of VEG-A and VEG-B, I'll add VEG-C to the equation and VEG-C will be done in the flowering room so that I can still get 4 crops per year. VEG-B will be done in my 10 bucket RDWC systems just like the past and VEG-A will be in the hanging E&F like I've been doing.
I still don't see myself doing this grow vertically when I look at other vertical grows online. I feel that I'm not going to get the same penetration compared to Gavita's and I want to take full advantage of that extra light that the DE bulbs put out. It's going to be an interesting experience. This time instead of VEG-A and VEG-B, I'll add VEG-C to the equation and VEG-C will be done in the flowering room so that I can still get 4 crops per year. VEG-B will be done in my 10 bucket RDWC systems just like the past and VEG-A will be in the hanging E&F like I've been doing.
We moved another 2.5 oz of the oil. We've been giving it to a good friend who has been moving the whole thing to another guy. I gave him some good samples of shatter / wax but he keeps placing orders for sap. I'm really not sure why and trying to figure it all out. People aren't really saying what they are doing with it but I suspect they are filling up e-cigs and reselling them. I've been trying to get into the retail market for a couple of years now but the university promotion has not really gone far. When we smoke up all these students, they like the product but say it's a process to use and they'd rather have bud. Obviously I need a product that is stupid proof. My plan was to find some sort of e-cig that I can put 1 gram in but a couple of people here on IC said that you can't put a gram into an e-cig because it will break or waste all the product. I'm really not sure if this is correct. I'm still doing my research and I have to do some testing soon. We are about to order various types of e-cigs to test and see what we can do. The guy that i've been moving the oil to wants to partner up on an oil venture and figure out how to break into this retail market. He's in a really great area surrounded by many universities so it's the perfect match. The people in this area are still paying $300+ for oz of bud so price shouldn't be an issue. We just have to figure out how this all works. My boy said he was going to order some e-pens last week so maybe the ball is rolling. I was thinking of ordering this e-cig:
http://www.vapes.com/yocan-exgo-w3-wax-pen-vaporizer-kit/
It looks like it could attract people but not sure how the whole thing works. This is all pretty new to the people that I talk to. I would think that the consumer would want something stealth that they can smoke in the street so that's the direction that I'm going with. I don't think a globe would work with them. I was thinking of trying out Gentleman Brands products to see how they work. One of their pens seems pretty stealth but like I said I really have no idea. Hopefully we have it all figured out by spring when the good weather comes and it's easier for people to promote.
The main goal is to help my boy set up a good business strategy so that he can break the oil down and not have to move it all to his boy because he wants to make more profit. I feel like the oil market here is fairly new so it's just a matter of time before other oil sources make it to the market. I'm not saying that there's no oil in this market but it's not saturated like the green market. I want to help my friend get a good customer base before that happens or my future oil could end up sitting around with no where to go. So that's one of the things I'll be working on.
http://www.vapes.com/yocan-exgo-w3-wax-pen-vaporizer-kit/
It looks like it could attract people but not sure how the whole thing works. This is all pretty new to the people that I talk to. I would think that the consumer would want something stealth that they can smoke in the street so that's the direction that I'm going with. I don't think a globe would work with them. I was thinking of trying out Gentleman Brands products to see how they work. One of their pens seems pretty stealth but like I said I really have no idea. Hopefully we have it all figured out by spring when the good weather comes and it's easier for people to promote.
The main goal is to help my boy set up a good business strategy so that he can break the oil down and not have to move it all to his boy because he wants to make more profit. I feel like the oil market here is fairly new so it's just a matter of time before other oil sources make it to the market. I'm not saying that there's no oil in this market but it's not saturated like the green market. I want to help my friend get a good customer base before that happens or my future oil could end up sitting around with no where to go. So that's one of the things I'll be working on.
Snauseberry
Member
Im sure you already know, but 130-140+ will make sap. I guess if people want to be discrete, you can smoke some oil with hardly any terpenes
Edit. I know 170-180 makes that classic "oil" smell
Edit. I know 170-180 makes that classic "oil" smell
I've been winterizing first with 190 Proof Grape Ethanol and then double boiling it off at 180F until the Ethanol is gone. It's pretty much decarbed oil and this guy has been taking it for 3 or more years. 3 years ago he was paying 2k an oz and I didn't get why. I just think either I don't know anything or the market here has barley started. I would think that people would want a more terpy product and the sap is not it. That's why I gave him the wax but he was more focused on the sap.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Decarbed like that is good for turning into powerful edibles. IMO it needs the terps to have that appeal. Ever try g pens. U can load little bits of straight bho in it and walk around discreetly with it. I think it would be the hit for the campus seen. Powerful meds easily loaded into a small discreet e pen looking vape that u can take anywhere.
I thought the Nag Champa and the KK Stardawg were one in the same? Glad to see ya back up and running my dude, hope this spot is everything ya need. 1
I've never tried any type of ecig. I'm trying to find a process where I can load a gram into each type of pen so that it is idiot proof. It seems a lot of these guys don't want to have to load anything themselves.
I make lots of different kinds of edibles with the decarbed oil. Mostly lollipops.
Nag Champa and Illuminati are the same cut but KK StarDawg is a different cut. Thanks for your nice comments! It's great to be back to growing again! I couldn't ask for anything more.I thought the Nag Champa and the KK Stardawg were one in the same? Glad to see ya back up and running my dude, hope this spot is everything ya need. 1
Therealzemi
Active member
Subbed. Some good reading here 
so glad to see you getting back in biz snype. always like to read your posts.
Also always trying to get my clones to root like yours. I'm going to spend the next few weeks-months vegging my moms and cloning. Gotta get those crazy roots.
Also always trying to get my clones to root like yours. I'm going to spend the next few weeks-months vegging my moms and cloning. Gotta get those crazy roots.
I spent tonight with the ladies in the 4 light room. I did some staking to spread out some of the plants and I also did some transplanting. The plants are looking really nice. I think this is really going to be a good crop. My best crops come in winter so I hope this works out like I want. This is the first time I've been able to give the Nag Champa Kush / Illuminati the space that she needs and she's looking real nice. I'm glad we got a few of these ones going. Her growth rates are very similar to the ChemDD / BYTCH which is really nice. Nag Champa is the only plant that I have that I never got to grow out to her full potential. She was usually getting the corner of a light in the past because she can take up a lot of space. She's smelling really strong in VEG as well.
The Pre98 Bubba's are very slow. I figured that it would be a bad idea to top them so I didn't. The Oregon ICE's are also slow but I topped those at the 8th node. I topped everything at the 8th node except the Bubba's. 13 of the 16 plants should be ready to go into flowering this week. The other 3 I'm going to have to throw into another room to continue vegging because I don't want to just throw in plants into flower because I have to. I want to maximize this crop as best as I can. It's a soil crop so I expect to have some top of the line meds if this crop compares to any of my previous soil crops in the last year. I just hope we can get at least 1.5 pound per light but I really have no idea because 4 plants per light is new to me but we shall see.
Those roots really aren't that difficult to get if all your conditions are inline and your MOMs are nice and healthy. I'm sure you can get there. Thanks for stopping by.
The Pre98 Bubba's are very slow. I figured that it would be a bad idea to top them so I didn't. The Oregon ICE's are also slow but I topped those at the 8th node. I topped everything at the 8th node except the Bubba's. 13 of the 16 plants should be ready to go into flowering this week. The other 3 I'm going to have to throw into another room to continue vegging because I don't want to just throw in plants into flower because I have to. I want to maximize this crop as best as I can. It's a soil crop so I expect to have some top of the line meds if this crop compares to any of my previous soil crops in the last year. I just hope we can get at least 1.5 pound per light but I really have no idea because 4 plants per light is new to me but we shall see.
Those roots really aren't that difficult to get if all your conditions are inline and your MOMs are nice and healthy. I'm sure you can get there. Thanks for stopping by.
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