Well apple trees you do trim all limbs facing the main trunk.Ive been super cropping for 20 yrs it all came from the tomato biz and you prune and defoliate to some degree plus snap or twist pinch the stocks up until 2 weeks of our glorious buds start to form.Bottom line if it works for you do it,its a weed hard to kill but you can screw up the yeild lol.
Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?
- Thread starter k33ftr33z
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I looked thru some pages and read and again to my understanding This defoilating is to allow light for lower bud growth ??? if thats the case then them lower looking buds are pretty fluffy ya think lets hope it doesn't really resemble top buds as Noted on quote
But to Each there own
Good luck and happy yields Cheers Doc
Regular pruning of apple trees is necessary to promote more fruit bearing growths, and therefore more fruit. There are 2 pruning seasons for apples summer and winter.
Summer and winter pruning of apple trees both have different results on the nature of the apple tree's future growth - especially in the first season after pruning.Timing of pruning apple trees is quite important. If the summer pruning is done to early, then developing fruit buds can start into growth when they should be dormant. These buds will not develop fully, and therefore be lost for the following year. Late August is a good time for any summer pruning, and certainly no earlier than the beginning of August.
Thinning Cuts. These are simple cuts to thin out the tree as required by taking out a full shoot - right back to another side shoot. They do not cause renewed vigour normally and can be done winter or summer.
Heading back. This is normally just taking out the end (terminal section of a shoot - small branch) and induces new growths at the area of the cut. These new shoots can then be trained into new frameworks as required.
All pruning cuts should be 'finished' as neatly as possible to allow for quick healing. Make your pruning cut as near to the old branch as possible - not leaving any stubs. There is no need to apply a pruning compound or paint to apple trees. They do not prevent the incidence of disease and do not assist in the healing of the cut.
Pruning Apple trees has a twofold effect.
It will retain the apple tree in a manageable size and shape.
If carried out as above, will increase fruit yields.
Remember, that horizontal or near horizontal branches or shoots produce the most fruit.
Branches can be arched over in a pleasing effect, simply by gradually anchoring new branches to the ground, or simply tying bricks or other weights to the ends of new shoot. The latter makes for a good conversation topic!
never really got this debate. leaves use light to create food, the more food and energy the plant can get, the bigger every part will get- bud is plant tissue it cant just be made from nothing. i know bud can photosythesise but still.. you have to remember aswell that you will have less water and nutrient uptake aswell because if you take away leaves, you reduce transpiration.
so if you cut the leaves off, you will reduce nutrient uptake, reduce the amount of food the plant can produce for itself.
leaves make more than enough food to support themselves so seems pointless the whole argument. and if it can be proven id be really interested to see how it could possibly improve yield
so if you cut the leaves off, you will reduce nutrient uptake, reduce the amount of food the plant can produce for itself.
leaves make more than enough food to support themselves so seems pointless the whole argument. and if it can be proven id be really interested to see how it could possibly improve yield
eL artist
Member
no this technique is not for getting light to lower bud growth but the way the buds grows. the lower buds the upper buds all buds they grow way different like wow so different. this technique requires you to change veg techniques as it does stunt growth in veg and plants will not stretch as much in flo either but if height is issue and u have ability to veg longer try this cause you will get thicker colas and yield should increase.
check the pages used to b skeptical til I saw the light of how to increase veg time and how this will make your plants grow, taken single stem indca phenos that don't branch at all become super branchey girls, takes awhile but this technique work. technique is not just about lower light penetration but is about changing plant structure and growth characteristics unlike lst or fim or toopping
L
lordofthenugz
I went tooping once. Got all sorts of scuffed up ;-)
I say let both sides of the argument run multiples of same age clones of same mother vegged out and flowered side by side and prove yourself. Use multiples of indicas, sativas, and hybrids. Then we can see
PEACE!
I say let both sides of the argument run multiples of same age clones of same mother vegged out and flowered side by side and prove yourself. Use multiples of indicas, sativas, and hybrids. Then we can see
PEACE!
eL artist
Member
I went tooping once. Got all sorts of scuffed up ;-)
I say let both sides of the argument run multiples of same age clones of same mother vegged out and flowered side by side and prove yourself. Use multiples of indicas, sativas, and hybrids. Then we can see
PEACE!
again like mentioned 100x before since op cant run side by side because this technique cant be done with side by side (because it is for certain situations and certain conditions and will guarantee take longer) but guarantee everyone who was able to properly incorporate this technique (able to add necessary time to veg) into thier growing cycle guarantee they got better yields. but for me it takes 4+ weeks to veg using this technique and fim. but only two weeks not using technique and only fim but with my perpetual setup now doesn't matter how long I veg so I use technique cause I like how girls grow because of it, much more branchey and internode space super short, if all I do is fim under my 600 mh in my ebb n flo tray shit just stretches to light then starts to develop next node until heat stress starts then I raise light and cycle continues (stretch then develop), but plant concentrates on top nodes especially and doesn't develop previous nodes well, this technique forces plant to stay shorter and develop those smaller nodes. if u don't use this technique, don't hate/critique/argue against it cause of your perceived notion it hurts yield and plants, because time after time this thread has proven you can get amazing plants from using defoliation. ppl stop arguing, this shit works, just not for everybody, but worth adding to your skill set if you can cause it can help
defoliation is the only way to go for me in my 1,2 sqf cab , leaves will shade everything if left alone resulting in a very poor harvest. I started at week 4 true week 6 before flipping and now again from end of stretch true harvest. Anyway , thx everybody for sharing your experience in this 3d, appreciated.
Peace S
Peace S
eL artist
Member
so this is my sour bubble indica pheno see no side branching at all
this is what they look like after 3 defols and in ebb'n'flo tray
see side branching
they are back right 2 girls and one other in there this pic but I defol'd all my girls this round, this is pic is after 7 days in veg and 1 day after first defol (fim all girls day one in veg defol'd on day 7)
check my thread for how they look 3 weeks later just put 12 of these in my flower room rdwc u/c system
It all depends on what one wants. DrFever explained his reasoning for why he grows monster colas the size of a 5 gal bucket, god damn. DrFever, have you ever thought that maybe you don't like defoliation because it doesn't fit in with you're overall scheme of things. I mean, it would be a pain in the ass to trim your trees. What temp/humidity/VPD do you run? If one has an optimal atmosphere for their plant, I don't understand why removing fan leafs would harm a plant. Plants naturally shed their leafs as energy is focused on buds (as I understand) so defoliating just helps speed that up. That being said, I do notice delays in new growth because I remove a lot of foliage at once and I'm not so sure slow stripping them down prevents this.
I personally grow to supply myself and I have no problems trimming up a bud if it'll fill a bowl. I still wouldn't mind colas like your's, but let's be real, could you grow buds that size with a single 600w? I'm limited to 3 plants flowering and I LST for the fastest veg growth. I pay attention to apical dominance and residue on fresh plant growth so that I can train my plants like you describe..I add weights to various branches (and not just the dominant branch) as I try to imagine how auxins will shape future growth. I've always messed around with super cropping and at the very least, the stems get very thick after they recover. Would you be able to show us some more pics of the 'knots and twists' you create? Also, how exactly do you know which lower sites to prune? I'd rather error on having more yield (even if its more, smaller buds) and although my lower nodes are rather elongated as you've said, many strains produce solid buds all the way down to the medium. I just popped some seeds and try to keep short plants to manage a canopy for a vertical bulb. Would love to hear any advice you have to offer...your work speaks for itself that you've got something very right. Thanks for sharing.
I personally grow to supply myself and I have no problems trimming up a bud if it'll fill a bowl. I still wouldn't mind colas like your's, but let's be real, could you grow buds that size with a single 600w? I'm limited to 3 plants flowering and I LST for the fastest veg growth. I pay attention to apical dominance and residue on fresh plant growth so that I can train my plants like you describe..I add weights to various branches (and not just the dominant branch) as I try to imagine how auxins will shape future growth. I've always messed around with super cropping and at the very least, the stems get very thick after they recover. Would you be able to show us some more pics of the 'knots and twists' you create? Also, how exactly do you know which lower sites to prune? I'd rather error on having more yield (even if its more, smaller buds) and although my lower nodes are rather elongated as you've said, many strains produce solid buds all the way down to the medium. I just popped some seeds and try to keep short plants to manage a canopy for a vertical bulb. Would love to hear any advice you have to offer...your work speaks for itself that you've got something very right. Thanks for sharing.
cannibuzze
New member
without leaves there would be no fruit. defoilating is one thing, but if you go to far you are seriously compromising your end result.
man that first plant looks beat up. the reason you have side branching is because they are topped. either that or because you are removing fans the plant is desperately trying to put out more leaves(hence the side branching).
just thought id comment on a couple of things you said.
the first point in bold is quite wrong. leaves convert light(with nutrients and water) into sugars. that is how the plant lives. the more surface area of leaf there is, the more food it can produce for itself.
so say you have 20 leaves on a plant covering an area of 30cm2 if you cut off half the leaves or even a a qtr, your going to significantly affect how much food the plant can produce. hence why its growth will stand still.
and another ponit is plants do not shed their leaves to concentrate on bud growth, the plant will literally suck all of the energy and food out of each leaf as it is maturing and once to stores have been used up the leaves fall off. so the plant is basically burning up reserves while its buds mature.
and to the other part highlighted, you can easily get fat buds under a 600w. with three plants only you might have to scrog or grow in a massive pot (or all three). i used to use a 600w only and its plenty of light to get good yields.
hope that helps.
lol if you go too far with ANYTHING AT ALL you will compromise your end result.
ATTENTION EVERYONE
If you have not tried this, then please don't comment. All this conjecture is getting old.. the OP plainly asks for ppl to only comment. Yet about 400 times in this thread you get the "bla bla solar panels of mother nature" etc from ppl who have never actually successfully done this technique. It is an advanced technique.. which means you may not get it right the first time.
So if you couldn't get it right the very first time, or have never actually tried it yourself, then PLEASE refrain from commenting. Otherwise you're just muddying up the info for ppl who need helping trying it out.
Thanks and sorry if I come off like a douche...
i sure hope buddys plant makes a monster Yieldi think he said he was in week 2 flower
thats a beautiful plant you got there. looks like someone sat on it lol
nope not my plant i couldn't be so lucky
whos plant is that? looks very ill.
T
TribalSeeds
i sure hope buddys plant makes a monster Yield
Everything is going to be ok!
I had 2 plants that looked worse than that and then I took the leaf off because they were all yellow! I figured if I removed most of the leaf and the weak branches the plants might be able to get going instead of trying to support that worthless growth.
I literally had one of the pots in my hand and I would have tossed the plant out if it wasnt connected to my Blumats. I didnt want to have water all over my floor so I decided to take a chance!
I left the 2 plants out of my baby pics because they looked like crap, but both are now floppin over in my garden, homies!
the plant belongs to a friend i was over looking at them as he wanted some advice
And the advice i gave him was WTF you doing hahahaha he did have spidermites which i sold him some neem oil and told him what to do.
And 2 weeks later i went over there and laughed my @ss off
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