Compact SOG with CFL's

[Anti]

Oh i get it now, sorry Dr i just didn't explain my question properly but Anti cleared up most of the questions i had only thing i wanted to be sure of is how tall do you start flowering them. 3" is that from the base of the soil or another measurement? hope i come across clear this time... I'm new to this whole indoor growing plus it's compact so i'm just trying to gather up all the info i can first.

My plants were flowered at day 31 from seed. So they had one full month to go from being a little bean sprout to being full-fledged plants. There is FULL documentation of my grow from the design of my cab, to the build of my cab, to the germination of seeds all the way through to today (near 1st harvest) with pictures every week or sometimes more, if you need visual aids.

To do things Dr. Bud's way, what you're going to need to do is to grow a plant from seed until it can show you that it's definitely female. Once you definitely have a female, you can start taking cuttings of that female and rooting those cuttings so that you have identical genetic copies of that one plant. Now you will begin to experiment with finding the correct plant height in your veg cab so that when you place it into flowering it will only grow JUST tall enough. To do this, you're going to start one clone on 12/12 when it's 2" tall.. you're going to start a second clone (of the same plant) on 12/12 when it's 3" tall. You're going to start a 3rd one at 4", a 4th at 5" and a fifth at 6" (all from the same plant.)

THen you're going to allow them to grow like normal and observe their final height. Whichever one grows to the PERFECT height in your cab (which is, basically, all the way up to within a few inches of the lights and then stop) is the "perfect" starter height for flowering for THAT STRAIN!

So at that point, you'll know that you need to grow strain x to a size of y in order for it to make maximum use of your headroom. Following all this? If you grow a different kind of plant from seed, it will not necessarily stop at the right height. You'd need to do the same exact kind of test on that new strain to find THAT strain's "sweet spot".

On average, plants will double or triple in size when you switch them to 12/12. So if for example you had 3ft of vertical space, you'd want to switch to flower by the time the plant was 12 inches tall.

I'm not on that step yet in my cab. I'm still on the first step, which is grow some plants out to find which ones I like enough to keep around. I'll be harvesting soon and I plan to reveg my plants and start my clone-farming once those plants have started to regrow limbs.

 

[DrBudGreengenes]

Give me a few mins here Dr. I have the photo's to back it. Not everyone can run out and pay a few grand just for a 48v system off the shelf. We run everything on 12v for now and it does the job very well with 2 Whisper 100 turbines and 500watts of solar. To tell someone that they can not do it is really not being productive.

I guess if you have $10,000+ for a 3kw turbine and another $3000 for a decent off grid inverter and the cash for a 1000 ah battery bank go for it, most people start off small and work into a larger system. Takes time, just like growing

Like I said, we do not live at the grow house, but use it each weekend. This supplies more than enough power to get the job done all year round.

PS 12v batteries at full charge are 14v, look at the display.

Go Back and look @ your own pictures
R U trying to say U live in Both houses?
the meter and 1 turbine R on the yellow house
and then u show a pic of the next door neighbors house?
so is it the white one or the yellow one?
or
should U just stop now?​

 

[Anti]

I have no idea which of you is right and only a vague idea of the concepts you are discussing....

...but I was wondering about the yellow/white house discrepancy too.

 

[maddr101]

My plants were flowered at day 31 from seed. So they had one full month to go from being a little bean sprout to being full-fledged plants. There is FULL documentation of my grow from the design of my cab, to the build of my cab, to the germination of seeds all the way through to today (near 1st harvest) with pictures every week or sometimes more, if you need visual aids.

To do things Dr. Bud's way, what you're going to need to do is to grow a plant from seed until it can show you that it's definitely female. Once you definitely have a female, you can start taking cuttings of that female and rooting those cuttings so that you have identical genetic copies of that one plant. Now you will begin to experiment with finding the correct plant height in your veg cab so that when you place it into flowering it will only grow JUST tall enough. To do this, you're going to start one clone on 12/12 when it's 2" tall.. you're going to start a second clone (of the same plant) on 12/12 when it's 3" tall. You're going to start a 3rd one at 4", a 4th at 5" and a fifth at 6" (all from the same plant.)

THen you're going to allow them to grow like normal and observe their final height. Whichever one grows to the PERFECT height in your cab (which is, basically, all the way up to within a few inches of the lights and then stop) is the "perfect" starter height for flowering for THAT STRAIN!

So at that point, you'll know that you need to grow strain x to a size of y in order for it to make maximum use of your headroom. Following all this? If you grow a different kind of plant from seed, it will not necessarily stop at the right height. You'd need to do the same exact kind of test on that new strain to find THAT strain's "sweet spot".

On average, plants will double or triple in size when you switch them to 12/12. So if for example you had 3ft of vertical space, you'd want to switch to flower by the time the plant was 12 inches tall.

I'm not on that step yet in my cab. I'm still on the first step, which is grow some plants out to find which ones I like enough to keep around. I'll be harvesting soon and I plan to reveg my plants and start my clone-farming once those plants have started to regrow limbs.

Anti, Man you're great. You'll cleared up my concerns i've been having about the growing i understand it to an extent all i have to do is put it to work and see what happens just one more thing is the clones when placed to root is that their permanent home or do you transplant them after taking root? if you do transplant them, how exactly do you go about it. and also what kinda of yield do you get on average per plant?

 

[Outportgrower]

Go Back and look @ your own pictures
R U trying to say U live in Both houses?
the meter and 1 turbine R on the yellow house
and then u show a pic of the next door neighbors house?
so is it the white one or the yellow one?
or
should U just stop now?​

Not going to argue with you on this. The house is yellow, the shed is white. Do you want the civic address posted as well? Maybe you need to settle down a little and get back on topic rather than trying to sound all high on yourself for a change. People could say that you grow massive plants outdoors, cut the tops off and try to pass them off as growing these little monsters that you pass off here as well.

Just to make you look even more foolish than you comments have been, here is a shot of the lot before the turbines were installed and the wires removed when I first purchased the property. If you open your eyes wide enough you will see all the buildings noted in the previous posts.

Nothing worse than people that try to come off thinking they know everything when in fact know very little. Try to get you head outta your ass long enough to understand that some people can do what you can not, while others can not do what you can do. It does not make you or me any better at the end of the day, and that''s all that really matters.

What works for you may not work for me or someone else. Same goes for what works for me may not work for you. Does that make you any better or any worse? I doubt it.

No back on topic here please......

 

[Outportgrower]

I have no idea which of you is right and only a vague idea of the concepts you are discussing....

...but I was wondering about the yellow/white house discrepancy too.

One is a house, the other is a shed as I posted in my reply. If you look you can see both buildings side by side. No discrepancy here, but rather not wanting to advertise the location as it seemed I needed to do in the photo attachment to the Dr's reply when he failed to take all things into consideration prior to spouting off, and seems to want to look like a hero when in reality is just digging himself a deeper hole.

 

[Outportgrower]

Where are the inlet lines? there should be at least 3 in lines on your Charge controller?
looks like a 1 whisper turbine...feeding that controller to me​

Clearly you are not an electrical engineer, I am. The turbines are three phase as you should know by now. The 600v cable can carry the voltage from both turbines with a bridge. Now how many wires are contained within a TEC cable?. Did you also not happen to notice the 60Amp Xantrex Charge Controller (there is your second charge controller that now also runs the dump load which runs to our in floor heating system). Sorry that these were early photo’s during the installation phase and do not provide you with a detailed enough schematic. But since you wish to argue, you should also be very aware of ohm’s law and resistance now don’t you so you would be able to provide everyone with a educated response to the use of wire size over distance, right! Please educate me a little more. I guess the seven years of post secondary education and fifteen years in the field have taught me nothing.
Only you know it all right? It is just too bad every time you type you are countered with fact.
Get off the bong long enough to look at what is right in front of you.
I have had it with stupid people that have no concept of electrical design or implementation. No wonder your stuck in the bush, people must laugh at you constantly when you come down the hill on your donkey.

 

[justanotherbozo]

Spool down there Turbo
Give someone a chance to respond to ya......
Geeze
TY for the well wishes...BTW ​

yeah, ...ok, ...Turbo?...i guess.



right back at you, bro.

 

[Anti]

Anti, Man you're great. You'll cleared up my concerns i've been having about the growing i understand it to an extent all i have to do is put it to work and see what happens just one more thing is the clones when placed to root is that their permanent home or do you transplant them after taking root? if you do transplant them, how exactly do you go about it.

I rooted my cuttings using a homemade bubble-cloner. Basically, get yourself a plastic storage container with a lid. Cut 1" holes in the lid. Space the holes evenly across the lid. Each hole is going to hold a clone. Go to the dollar store and buy one of those foam pool toys that look like PVC insulation but bigger. I got one for like $1.50. Cut the foam pieces up until you have little pacman shapes. Each pacman goes in one of those 1" holes.

Now you're almost done. Go to the pet store or walmart or something and buy yourself an air pump and airstone. The airstone goes down in your plastic container, which is then filled with water. When you cut each clone, use the pacman to hold the stem of your clone with a portion of that stem down in the water. Now sit back and wait for a week or so. Mist your clones a few times a day to keep them from dying. They won't have roots, so they'll only be able to drink through their leaves. So mist 'em.

Once a week or so has passed, take a peek under the lid. If you see roots, carefully pull the clone out of the 1" hole and remove the pacman. Now plant your clone in whatever she's gonna grow in.


There are much more detailed explanations (with pictures) of how to make your own bubble cloner, but what I've described is the broad strokes of it.

and also what kinda of yield do you get on average per plant?

I believe Dr Bud gets an average of 8 dried grams per plant grown in a 16oz container. I am using 32 oz containers, but I can't say how it much it will affect yield yet.* My harvest is a few days or weeks away. If you come back in a month, I will be able to tell you the weights from my first grow.

(* All things being equal, I'd imagine the 32oz container will yield more than the 16 oz container, but I don't know that it will necessarily yield TWICE what the 16oz does. If it turns out to be less than 16 g per plant, I will most likely switch to the 16 oz containers. After all, I can only fit 25 32oz containers in my space... but I could fit as many as 30-35 16oz containers in the same space. So we'll see what happens.)

 

[maddr101]

I rooted my cuttings using a homemade bubble-cloner. Basically, get yourself a plastic storage container with a lid. Cut 1" holes in the lid. Space the holes evenly across the lid. Each hole is going to hold a clone. Go to the dollar store and buy one of those foam pool toys that look like PVC insulation but bigger. I got one for like $1.50. Cut the foam pieces up until you have little pacman shapes. Each pacman goes in one of those 1" holes.

Now you're almost done. Go to the pet store or walmart or something and buy yourself an air pump and airstone. The airstone goes down in your plastic container, which is then filled with water. When you cut each clone, use the pacman to hold the stem of your clone with a portion of that stem down in the water. Now sit back and wait for a week or so. Mist your clones a few times a day to keep them from dying. They won't have roots, so they'll only be able to drink through their leaves. So mist 'em.

Once a week or so has passed, take a peek under the lid. If you see roots, carefully pull the clone out of the 1" hole and remove the pacman. Now plant your clone in whatever she's gonna grow in.


There are much more detailed explanations (with pictures) of how to make your own bubble cloner, but what I've described is the broad strokes of it.

I believe Dr Bud gets an average of 8 dried grams per plant grown in a 16oz container. I am using 32 oz containers, but I can't say how it much it will affect yield yet.* My harvest is a few days or weeks away. If you come back in a month, I will be able to tell you the weights from my first grow.

(* All things being equal, I'd imagine the 32oz container will yield more than the 16 oz container, but I don't know that it will necessarily yield TWICE what the 16oz does. If it turns out to be less than 16 g per plant, I will most likely switch to the 16 oz containers. After all, I can only fit 25 32oz containers in my space... but I could fit as many as 30-35 16oz containers in the same space. So we'll see what happens.)

Nice man reall nice i'ma try that cloning thing soon as i get a good mother plant. but you've been a great help to me so far i'm sure to ask you further questions if any arise. I have three seedlings growing right now but my only problem is my lighting so i tend to give them sunlight every now and again inbetween the "day" cycle. These lights are hard to come by where i'm from and they don't run as cheap. I was trying to have them ordered and sent down to me but it's 220 down here and what you'll got is 110. Tell me what's the least amount of light per plant or per sqft?

 

[maddr101]

[/quote]

And i will be following up to see how your buds turn out and what yield you're getting. oh one more thing from how many weeks can you start nutes or should start?

 

[AromaDreams]

I have been lurkin and readin a lot of your guys' threads. very impressed. im trying to go through some seeds i have to find a mother before i start to do this myself, but, I just finished a bottle of isopropyl for some hash and saw on the label, its 16oz too. but the section that would be needed to cut off is smaller then that of the soda bottle to cut off. Also, the foot print of the iso bottle is 2"x3" rectangle where everytime i try to get a foot print of a soda bottle, i come up with 3"x3".
knowing this, I can now set up this style of s.o.g. with my small cab, 30"x30" whole thing. flower part is 20"x15", so using the iso bottles, i can fit 30 little girls in there or 27 and harvest 3 a week.

anyone else thought about using these bottles with the same capacity but smaller footprint?

I have to say that I am very impressed with this style of grow. cant wait to try it out for myself, but what do you think would yield more: going with 27 plants and harvesting 3 a week or filling the cab with 30 plants and harvesting 15 a month?

The strain that I supposidly have is jack herer, found some seeds in my last bag of it I got, but who knows. 6 weeks into flower and I would say prolly another 2-3 weeks before its done, so i think it would go great with this style of grow.

 

[Anti]

anyone else thought about using these bottles with the same capacity but smaller footprint?

Yeah. I've been looking around at more permanent solutions. If I were to go with a 20 oz soda bottle, they make a squared 20oz fiji water bottle (but that stuff's expensive) and I noticed that some energy drink or vitamin water is also available in the square 20 oz bottles.

I also did some poking around on a website that sells plastic bottles by the case that has 20oz bottles that are only maybe 1.5" wide but 9-10" tall.

If my 32oz containers work out better than my 20 oz containers, I will probably go with these:

http://www.stuewe.com/images/minitray6.jpg

Those MT38s in the picture are exactly the same dimensions as the 32oz half and half cartons I'm currently growing in... and that TRAY6 is 16"x16" so it'll hold 25 of the MT38s... so it's basically PERFECTLY sized for my 17"x17" cab. It'll also hold uh... 35 or so of those MT2510 which are a lot closer to the 20oz bottles.

[hint]I'd love to hear Dr. Bud's opinion on these.[/hint]
​

​

​

what do you think would yield more: going with 27 plants and harvesting 3 a week or filling the cab with 30 plants and harvesting 15 a month?

Once again, my knowledge is based on having read this thread and others by Dr. Bud and many other growers on these forums, and does not represent actual experience on my part.

That being said, I'm pretty sure Dr. Bud explained somewhere that you get more from the staggered harvest because plants aren't going to be fighting each other for every available photon. The mature plants will be better lit because there will not be a total canopy blocking light to the lower limbs. During their peak production they'll have access to light that otherwise would've hit the tops of other similarly sized plants. Better light should equate to bigger, denser buds.

The smaller plants, in their turn, will replace their older sister-selves when their time comes around, assuring that the plants that are nearest to harvest always have first "option" on available photons.

Please correct me if I am off base here, Doc.

 

[AromaDreams]

Yeah. I've been looking around at more permanent solutions. If I were to go with a 20 oz soda bottle, they make a squared 20oz fiji water bottle (but that stuff's expensive) and I noticed that some energy drink or vitamin water is also available in the square 20 oz bottles.
yeah, I use one of those for a gravity bong: glass stem goes almost to the bottom so its water filtered. I love it, but its huge, but then again, i have my plants in one gallon pots right now. I have a few clones in some 12oz apple juice containers, seeing what they will do. they have a 2"x2" footprint.
That being said, I'm pretty sure Dr. Bud explained somewhere that you get more from the staggered harvest because plants aren't going to be fighting each other for every available photon. The mature plants will be better lit because there will not be a total canopy blocking light to the lower limbs. During their peak production they'll have access to light that otherwise would've hit the tops of other similarly sized plants. Better light should equate to bigger, denser buds.

The smaller plants, in their turn, will replace their older sister-selves when their time comes around, assuring that the plants that are nearest to harvest always have first "option" on available photons.
Ah, ok, that makes sense, giving the oldest plants the first chance at light so you get bigger denser buds, then a whole canopy with lots of buds under the canopy not getting light.

Thanks Anti, i really appreciate it bro.

 

[Mk3Jetta]

I have read through this thread and Dr., I've got to hand it to you!

You grow some nice buds and have also taught me a lot about SOGing.

Thanks for taking the time to post up images and information for noob type growers!!!!!

 

[justanotherbozo]

these work real well too bro, 33oz, narrow and straight so dumping used
soil is a snap, and, if you drink the water, the bottle is free, lol.
(they're called SmartWater, in case you can't see it)

Yeah. I've been looking around at more permanent solutions. If I were to go with a 20 oz soda bottle, they make a squared 20oz fiji water bottle (but that stuff's expensive) and I noticed that some energy drink or vitamin water is also available in the square 20 oz bottles.

I also did some poking around on a website that sells plastic bottles by the case that has 20oz bottles that are only maybe 1.5" wide but 9-10" tall.

If my 32oz containers work out better than my 20 oz containers, I will probably go with these:

http://www.stuewe.com/images/minitray6.jpg

Those MT38s in the picture are exactly the same dimensions as the 32oz half and half cartons I'm currently growing in... and that TRAY6 is 16"x16" so it'll hold 25 of the MT38s... so it's basically PERFECTLY sized for my 17"x17" cab. It'll also hold uh... 35 or so of those MT2510 which are a lot closer to the 20oz bottles.

[hint]I'd love to hear Dr. Bud's opinion on these.[/hint]
​

​

​

Once again, my knowledge is based on having read this thread and others by Dr. Bud and many other growers on these forums, and does not represent actual experience on my part.

That being said, I'm pretty sure Dr. Bud explained somewhere that you get more from the staggered harvest because plants aren't going to be fighting each other for every available photon. The mature plants will be better lit because there will not be a total canopy blocking light to the lower limbs. During their peak production they'll have access to light that otherwise would've hit the tops of other similarly sized plants. Better light should equate to bigger, denser buds.

The smaller plants, in their turn, will replace their older sister-selves when their time comes around, assuring that the plants that are nearest to harvest always have first "option" on available photons.

Please correct me if I am off base here, Doc.

 

[maddr101]

Yeah. I've been looking around at more permanent solutions. If I were to go with a 20 oz soda bottle, they make a squared 20oz fiji water bottle (but that stuff's expensive) and I noticed that some energy drink or vitamin water is also available in the square 20 oz bottles.

I also did some poking around on a website that sells plastic bottles by the case that has 20oz bottles that are only maybe 1.5" wide but 9-10" tall.

If my 32oz containers work out better than my 20 oz containers, I will probably go with these:

http://www.stuewe.com/images/minitray6.jpg

Those MT38s in the picture are exactly the same dimensions as the 32oz half and half cartons I'm currently growing in... and that TRAY6 is 16"x16" so it'll hold 25 of the MT38s... so it's basically PERFECTLY sized for my 17"x17" cab. It'll also hold uh... 35 or so of those MT2510 which are a lot closer to the 20oz bottles.

[hint]I'd love to hear Dr. Bud's opinion on these.[/hint]
​

​

​

Once again, my knowledge is based on having read this thread and others by Dr. Bud and many other growers on these forums, and does not represent actual experience on my part.

That being said, I'm pretty sure Dr. Bud explained somewhere that you get more from the staggered harvest because plants aren't going to be fighting each other for every available photon. The mature plants will be better lit because there will not be a total canopy blocking light to the lower limbs. During their peak production they'll have access to light that otherwise would've hit the tops of other similarly sized plants. Better light should equate to bigger, denser buds.

The smaller plants, in their turn, will replace their older sister-selves when their time comes around, assuring that the plants that are nearest to harvest always have first "option" on available photons.

Please correct me if I am off base here, Doc.

Hey Anti how many bud site you got per plant not sure if you count them but approximately more than 5? i'm just a little curious.

 

[VladTheInhaler]

In order to cram in as many clones as I can, I strted using these:
http://www.edensupplies.co.uk/garden_shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13

They work well enough.

 

[akabud]

In order to cram in as many clones as I can, I strted using these:
http://www.edensupplies.co.uk/garden_shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13

They work well enough.

how you geting on with the poly pots? i have some but they seem a little shallow...

 

[VladTheInhaler]

They work fine, the holes on the bottom are too big, otherwise they're just as good as plastic cups were.