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Commercial outdoor organic soil mixes for 2016

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
im torn between getting more of what i used last year, or trying something new like whats posted above
 

orechron

Member
Screws if you're thinking of dumping the pots then adding more on top what I'd do is amend the old stuff with gypsum, micro sulfates, and a nitrogen source. I'm guessing there is still too much Potassium in the old stuff but a new test could prove me wrong.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
When you go P= K and tie micros to P you need a lot of micros. Azomite, kelp, sea salt, etc bring mocros but also a lot of really ultra trace stuff...maybe mote than you want in a lb of azomite
 
Azomite has a fair amount of Na in it as well. . . a lb a yard is a bit much for me... to each their own. As we have seen plenty of soil mixes pushing 3+ % Na not that they do well but just saying some dont seem to adhere to low Na standards...
 
The living soil symposium in williams, OR this past weekend was a nice event. Lots of great folks from Cali, WA and OR.. Malibu compost was there and gave us a sample to test from the OR composting facility.. Hoping for some balanced compost with low K.. On another note we managed to source some 3 year digested worm compost that seems superb, waiting to see some results from logan before I rave about it but it looks promising in comparison to the 1 & 2 year EWC that are offered currently..
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
let me know what you guy's think..
 

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FoothillFarming

Active member
I would love to know what everyone's opinion's are on the different organic options we have for our outdoor soil mixes.

Some people seem to be all about low cost, or cheaper mixes that you can top dress and feed throughout the year when the nutrients in the soil run out. While others are into spending more and having a soil mix like the cootz that will have all the nutrients in it for the whole year.


Any help or insight on mixes that will provide nutrients the whole season, are appreciated.

The best money you can spend all season is on the soil. Coots style for the win, IMHO.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
In spite of good numbers there are a couple of things that are good to have on hand for emergencies and a soil fertigation strategy to enhance microbes and a foliar strategy to enhance protein synthesis and photosynthesis.

I like to keep an amino based protein product on hand for N. My favorite is Ferti Nitro which I get from custom hydro nutrients. The second thing is foliar Ca cause when the plant really starts to grow fast you may not be able to get enough transpiration to transport enough Ca to tips. My favorite is Albion Metalosate....but there are other things that work as well now.

For the soil I think one should work on microbes weekly. So a Microbeman tea feed or an AEA/Tainio deal if you are as lazy as me.

Lastly a foliar designed to convert nitrate into protein in the plant and enhance photosynthesis. So to me that is PhotoMag, Sea Shield, micros and kelp.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
With the ferti-nitro, how often can you spray this, assuming your plants need N?

One thing I am concerned with is the first week or maybe even 10 days after I transplant my large starts in pro-mix hp, into the large full season pots of nutrient dense soil. After I plant I don't want to continue using nectar for the gods, and I know the plants will want to drink from their previous root-ball. I figure foliar sprays of N and everything else will be necessary the first week?

I suppose I could hand water the root ball with mild nutrients for a week or so, to ensure proper nutrition but would prefer to do foliars.

Last year the starts kind of stalled out for a good week after transplant, and plants faded a lighter shade within the week before greening back up.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
outlaw...you want to use a starter fertilizer, either in the hole or drenching the old root ball. I can give you a formula if you want.

But the Ferti should not burn. You could spray daily if you go light. Another alternative would be Sea Shield which comes with N, a little P and plenty of Ca and some chitosan.

HL45...yes it is. Pure Protein Dry will work just fine if that is what you have
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Milky, I would appreciate that starter formula you speak of for root drenches.... Now that I think of it Its going to be easier for me to water the rootball than try and spray everyday
 
Mr Weedwolf, do you reuse your potting soil? How many grows til the wood chips break down? What is drainage like once it does break down?

sorry, I totally forgot about this thread :Bolt:
anyway the plants yielded fine, around 1.3 g/W, THC values were as expected from previous crops, although the ATF tested a bit higher than normal, at 19% THC

The important thing with using a soil mix with wood chips is this:
- add 4 lbs N for every cubic yard if the wood chips are hardwood
- add 2 lbs N for every cubic yard if the wood chips are softwood


This is best done with feather meal, as this slow release N fertilizer won't burn (ahem, cook) your plants, but feed the microbes, so you can do it once and forget it.
Alternatively you can add 1/2 Tbsp blood meal per gallon of soil in a pot each week on top of your normal nitrogen fertilizer regime. Thus a trade 5 gallon would require about 2 Tbsp blood meal per week or 1 1/4 cup for a 10 week flower cycle. This should run you about $0.50 per plant per crop, maybe $0.80 if you include veg.

Happy growing!
 
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