Click here for Afropip Durban Poison, and GN Thai Stick or don't. I dont care.

[Donald Mallard]

bump this thread. check out those purple Durban poisons!

remember the Durban poison that put some many tokers in the hospital in Melbourne was a purple dp.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5191789&highlight=purple+durban#post5191789

maybe tangwena has the answer; proper old skool African cure:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=309172


waiting for the aged smoke reports in a few months.

I found several of the landraces I've grown to be super oily/gooey.

I smoke cigars and I like the oily ones. it takes a long time for the oily cigars to age sufficiently so that they are at optimum smoke potential:

perhaps there is a strong correlation between the oily factor in sativas and the pronounced improvement in their high effects. i'm saying maybe this is why we need to age many sativa landraces longer and also why after extensive aging they smoke so nice.

maybe the tangwena type cure can actualize inherent smoke potential?

Im sure without doubt that its the climate that herb was grown in that made it stronger than the folks were able to produce at home.. Most plants dont like being taken to a different climate , they struggle until they are able to adapt , if they can .. cannabis is the same ...
add to that the age of the erb when it finally reached it s destination , if stored correctly it should be well cured ..
im sure they can replicate the last stage , but the first they cant unless they grow it in the same climate it had adapted too ..

 

[idiit]

^ yes, very true Donald for many landrace strains. now we are talking ability to acclimate. highland Mexicans, skunk and Durban poison are three landrace strains noted for their ability to acclimate. the led grows show promise. vermontman had great success with his recent led grow of mulanje gold ( marlberry malawi.) marlberry has two Malawi strains.

vermontman is posting very high satisfaction with his marlbery mulanje grow. mulajne is a Malawi strain.

Quote:
The Mulanje is possibly one of the most potent Sativas I have enjoyed. One buddy of mine says it is almost to strong. But overall very heady, upbeat, happy all around amazing. Bud density is also terrific and another buddy says best herb he ever smelled and strongest he smoked but all in a good way.
Quote:
I was so impressed with Mulanje Gold from Malberry Seeds. I had to run a couple pics here again. Mulanje grew side by side with Malawi from African seed co. But in every manner was far superior to Malawi. Even to rub the stems of seedling plants leaves your fingers sticky. Fortunately I had One male and three females. The mature solid nugs have a ripe fruit scent and the extremely dense smoke has a fruity hashy creamy taste that sticks to your tongue. The high is super powerful up beat. mood and music is enhanced, dancing to that beat and laughter a must.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....36181&page=702

edited to add: skunk is an ibl, not a landrace. is renowned for acclimating capacity.

 

[Donald Mallard]

The more i see of that malawi the more id like to get some in the ground idiit , powerful and up beat sounds right up my alley ...

 

[idiit]

^ kind of ironic that vermontman did not like my grail breeder and puro soa Malawi gold.

the only strain that over all successfully survived this years may drought combined with 100 degree f temps. was Malawi soa, mandingo cut. I planted her earlier this year and some are going to finish under a hot sun. i'm going to take some and try out tangwena's cob cure and compare.

 

[atticflowers]

I think Ive had you all waiting long enough, so I present to you my method of producing amazing rootballs.

It isn't enough to provide a great medium, nutrients, and beneficials to get great roots. All that can easily be undone by improperly watering, which is often a common concern for many of us. Steady, methodical watering is the key step in growing amazing roots. I used to just take cups of water/feed and pour it on top of the media and let it soak in, rinse repeat until I thought I was done or until I saw pooling below. How many of us have done that one before? Dumping water onto the top of our rootballs usually leads to funneling/channeling of water as well as water flowing down the sides of the rootballs. Piss poor watering as I learned. I could do better.

Then Spurr told me about pulse watering, and that was a game changer for my roots then. You simply apply your solution to your plants in pulses allowing time for the water to wick throughout the media in between each pulse. Time between pulses are typically 5-10 minutes for me. I like to apply about about 20-25% of the water to plant A, move onto Plant B and water, move to Plant C and water, etc and eventually you work your way back around to Plant A where we start the process over again. Rinse repeat until we give them the required solution. The time in between plants give the water the time it needs to wick throughout the media. I can apply more water without wasted run-off.

Step 1: Start with a rootball needing water. I water sooner than others may. A consistently moist rootball is a happy vigorous rootball. Blumats taught me that, and I carried that over to hand-watering. Dry-downs in wet/dry cycles only cause damage to your fine root hairs and roots, leading to greater chances of root pathogens infecting them as well as stunting.

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Step 2: The mysterious syringe and measuring cup. The syringe provides me the fine precision control I need to cover every square inch leaving no dry spots left behind. I can water with a slow steady drip as I do for my seedlings in small containers, or a steady flowing stream or anywhere in between. I always water either in 30ml or 60ml increments each pulse. Nothing in between.

The measuring cup allows me to accurately measure out a consistent amount of water/feed every time. There is no guessing or half assing involved. I measure out exactly how much solution I need for all the plants and each gets their appropriate amount. Its important to know how much water it takes to reach container capacity and to exceed it. When you know that, you can better tailor how much water your plants really need each watering. I do not water to run-off by the way. No leaching in my garden at all. That only kills root-hairs if you are constantly flushing/leaching with each watering, IME.

Although, I also do water from the bottom once the plants reach the .75 gallon or larger containers. Its too time intensive to use the syringe on each plant at that stage. After about a 30 minute period to wick up the bottom watering, I lift the plant, tilt it at 90 degree angle to drain the perched water table(often times lifting the plant up and quickly descending repeatedly to further drain the PWT) and set it in a saucer with no more water.

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Step 3: I start with 60ml in my syringe at this stage. I apply the solution to one half of my media. The first picture shows me about done watering that side of the plants rootball. The 2nd picture shows the media with the full 2oz/60ml of water applied. She's also already soaked up 180ml I bottom watered by the time I was done applying 2 oz of water to the top. This is just the first pulse btw.

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Step 4: Now this step is crucial if you want to keep those beautiful fuzzy white roots on the outside of your rootball. Its real easy for them to become desiccated if too much time passes between waterings, or care isn't taken to fully ensure the entire rootball is moistened.

I make sure the roots on the outside edge dont have any dry pockets by applying around 50-60% of my water along the edge of the rootball. If I apply most of my water to the inner areas of the rootball, I end up with dry spots on the outside, which is why I pay great care to circling the entire rootball with a slow steady stream from the syringe.


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Step 5: Repeat Steps 3 and 4 on the other side of the rootball. Follow that up with a watering all the way around the outside edge only, and Im typically done at that point. It usually takes 2 or 3 pulses + bottom watering to satisfy a plant. Once the plants have rooted enough, I lift them from the containers to gauge the results of the pulses as well. It helps me know how many more pulses Im likely to require.

Unfortunately, I have hit my limit for photos to upload. Please visit my albums to see pics of the rootballs, or if you've been following the thread you've already seen some of them.

Have you ever tried this in grow bags?

 

[Tangwena]

Hi donald I agree about the climate, but the soil and altitude also play a part I brought seeds from Malawi back to Aussie and grew them for years in the SW of Western Australia.
The cobs they came from were the best I ever had but in 10 years of growing I never got to even 10% of the raw power of the best Malawi.
It may have been my lack of skills but my friends I gave seed to fared the same.
You can harvest as late as you want and cob cure the best buds but all we ever got was stronger weed than most other people, but I knew it was not the real deal.
Where they grow in volcanic soil, high altitude and warm to hot all year is the key to getting the real Malawi kick. The genetics always have the potential to be good but are pushing shit up hill to reproduce the effects from the real deal grown in Malawi IMO
Tangwena

 

[Donald Mallard]

Hi donald I agree about the climate, but the soil and altitude also play a part I brought seeds from Malawi back to Aussie and grew them for years in the SW of Western Australia.
The cobs they came from were the best I ever had but in 10 years of growing I never got to even 10% of the raw power of the best Malawi.
It may have been my lack of skills but my friends I gave seed to fared the same.
You can harvest as late as you want and cob cure the best buds but all we ever got was stronger weed than most other people, but I knew it was not the real deal.
Where they grow in volcanic soil, high altitude and warm to hot all year is the key to getting the real Malawi kick. The genetics always have the potential to be good but are pushing shit up hill to reproduce the effects from the real deal grown in Malawi IMO
Tangwena

Agreed tangwena, the climate plays a crucial role in bringing out the best of those nld types, imo thats why a lot of folks have trouble finding tripping weed from stuff grown out of its natural environment, im sure its there , but they dont get to realize the full potential of the plants ...

 

[Dave Coulier]

Have you ever tried this in grow bags?

Ive only recently begun tinkering with grow bags again, but Afropips-D(in a grow bag) gets hand-fed in a simliar fashion to that method. Ive been doing circles all the way around the pot, then moving inwards doing more rotations until I run out of feed in the syringe. I still follow the rest of the steps, most of the time.. Pauses between waterings is critical, and Ive been guilty of not pausing long enough or not at all, and root health/growth definitely is affected by it.

Since were on the subjects of containers, this is also my follow up to AIRPOTS.

Ill never use them again. Ive already discarded them from my garden. I was incredibly disappointed with the results in the root-zone. Ive seen some amazing roots with Airpots online, but root health was better in non airpot containers.

Airpots dry out incredibly fast. I had to water twice as often at nearly 2x the volume everytime. Talk about increasing water costs, fertilizer costs, increased labor, yet the roots were less healthy and less abundant than good ole plastic containers. Plastic containers are alot damned cheaper too. Airpots are nothing more than gimmicky containers IME. Just another alternative to regular pots. There will be always be a market for them and other alternatives no matter how effective they are because people simply like choices.

Well my choice is not to use them anymore. Although I am going to try out some Geobeds in the near future methinks. Should be fun trying something different.

Its great seeing all this discussion going on in the thread. Of course it would be while Im away at work for 13 hours. Slaving all day so I can keep the lights on in this house, so all of you can enjoy the show. Shame on you all.

While I can't replicate their natural conditions, Ill do my best to keep them happy and healthy. Ill humbly accept whatever buds they offer me in return. Throw in some cob-curing and I hope ill soon be punching my ticket to Wonderland.

 

[atticflowers]

Now that Ill be using myco in my garden(first time ever), Ill need to adjust my WSF feed to reduce the amount of P supplied. I was running 5/5/7 GH Flora 3 part series. Now Ill run 5/5/5. That'll drop the P to about 35ppm total. Ill be losing some Mg, and Sulfur, so Ill be using Epsom Salts to supplement. Ill post rates later for the E.S. that I end up using.

Ive already got 3 of the Thai transplanted last night, but I ran out of 2.5 gallon containers, so ill have to delay that till tomorrow afternoon. Tonight the Durban P will be transplanted into some 3 gallon containers I have except for the runt. I hope that one will be ready in a weeks time for transplant.

I think Im gonna get a headstart on the transplanting now. Ive got my hands full over here and cant afford to dawdle.

How do u decide when to transplant do u wait for the roots to be nicely balled around the soil or do u wait for the plant to tell ya?

 

[Dave Coulier]

How do u decide when to transplant do u wait for the roots to be nicely balled around the soil or do u wait for the plant to tell ya?

I like a well developed rootball before I consider transplanting. If I can lift the rootball out of the container, and there is no media falling off or sagging, then were getting close. But even then I may wait 2-3 more weeks before transplanting.

Ive kept the Durban Poison males 2-3 months in .75 gallon containers with no major problems as long as they're fed & watered on a regular basis.

Although, root health is always best, the following few weeks after transplant. Transplanting on a regular basis would be best and ideal. Not that I stay on schedule ever..

I snapped some pics today of the rootballs of one of my Shit females I transplanted 8 days ago. Lots of white fuzzy roots at the bottom from the bottom watering, but I also continue to water from top down. Ill wait till I get more roots along the walls of the rootball before I transplant. I still continue sloughing off roots along the edges & bottom of the rootball before transplanting. I like the results and will continue to do so.

 

[sdd420]

Dude I'll test those durbans for you!! Me me me just kidding ha ha . They do look good bro! So .....let me know keep up the good work! Peace sdd

 

[RoostaPhish]

Oh man you have the purple Durban poison. This looks at least color wise, like the phenotype I always tell people about when we discuss Durban p. Most folks have not seen the purple pheno. She is usually amazing. The one we had would cure out with a golden shine to her. And a black licorice flavor. Truly remarkable.

 

[Dave Coulier]

Dude I'll test those durbans for you!! Me me me just kidding ha ha . They do look good bro! So .....let me know keep up the good work! Peace sdd

Im glad to see the same excitement for the Durbans that I have. I wish everyone could have the opportunity to grow them out. I intend on sending 500 seeds to the Boo once made, so they can be requested as freebies and hopefully grown right away .

Plenty more updates on the Durban in the future. Maybe one tonight if you play your cards right. Heh.

Oh man you have the purple Durban poison. This looks at least color wise, like the phenotype I always tell people about when we discuss Durban p. Most folks have not seen the purple pheno. She is usually amazing. The one we had would cure out with a golden shine to her. And a black licorice flavor. Truly remarkable.

Welcome RoostaPhish. Im glad to hear about your experience with Purple Durban Poison. Feel free to share any more information you have. I ended up with 3 deep purple/magenta females out of 7 so far. I think maybe one of the other Green ones will sport some purple later on as well.

I definitely like the way you describe the finished product. Im hoping Ill have something just like that at the end. Did you end up with any chunky plants like DP-D or something more 'sativa-like'?

 

[Dave Coulier]

Afropips Chunky Male Update

Afropips Chunky Male Update

This is one of the males Ive kept in a .75 gallon for 2 months or so now. The roots dont look great anymore, but up top still pretty healthy. Ill get them transplanted into some larger containers today & flower them soon so I can begin making some seeds.

This single male has the most chunky looking leaves out of every Durban in the garden. Even surpassing DP-D. It has a few pollen sacks bulging, but I didn't manage to get any good pics of them. My other male already has some pollen dropped onto the leaves. That male will be my next update to come.

 

[RoostaPhish]

Yes she was always quite chunky. Above average yield I would say. Of course that always depends on the grower. She was amazing outdoors, as that was the only way I really had to cultivate it at the time. The purple pheno was much more difficult to peg as outdoor, even to a trained eye. Always seemed like the green pheno had much more of that look, many more small single blade sugar leafs that gave it a more outdoor appearance when done.

 

[Dave Coulier]

Yes she was always quite chunky. Above average yield I would say. Of course that always depends on the grower. She was amazing outdoors, as that was the only way I really had to cultivate it at the time. The purple pheno was much more difficult to peg as outdoor, even to a trained eye. Always seemed like the green pheno had much more of that look, many more small single blade sugar leafs that gave it a more outdoor appearance when done.

Its nice to know your DP was quite chunky too. These DP dont match the strain description in terms of bud size or flowering time, but it seems DP comes in a variety of styles from reading reports, and asking for feedback.

Id really love to grow these plants outdoors. They'd easily finish where I live. Maybe thats something I can try to accomplish next year, but I just hate getting out in the hot sun for hours on end.

All this DP talk has got me itching to do another Durban P update for the other 6 ladies flowering. Ill try to snap some pics tonight, but right now Ill be getting back to setting up an old tent. I need to expand my veg space as my plants are getting too tall for my t5 lights.

Once done, the room with t5's will be for clones, and seedlings only, while Ill have a large tent or two for veg, and one whole room for flowering. Lets see what I can do with all this space!

 

[atticflowers]

I like a well developed rootball before I consider transplanting. If I can lift the rootball out of the container, and there is no media falling off or sagging, then were getting close. But even then I may wait 2-3 more weeks before transplanting.

Ive kept the Durban Poison males 2-3 months in .75 gallon containers with no major problems as long as they're fed & watered on a regular basis.

Although, root health is always best, the following few weeks after transplant. Transplanting on a regular basis would be best and ideal. Not that I stay on schedule ever..

I snapped some pics today of the rootballs of one of my Shit females I transplanted 8 days ago. Lots of white fuzzy roots at the bottom from the bottom watering, but I also continue to water from top down. Ill wait till I get more roots along the walls of the rootball before I transplant. I still continue sloughing off roots along the edges & bottom of the rootball before transplanting. I like the results and will continue to do so.

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How do u go about watering the bottom?

 

[Dave Coulier]

I use a 2 oz syringe to slowly squirt water into the saucer the plants sit in. The media wickst it up quickly, then I repeat. I stop when the uptake comes to a crawl. Ill pour out any left over water after 15 minutes, so the roots dont drown themselves.

Recently, I placed the Mr. Nice Shit clones into saucers that were just a hair too small for the containers. This lead to the containers not being flush with the bottom of the saucer. They kinda sit up on the edge of the saucer walls allowing a small gap to form between the bottom of container and saucer. That small gap always has a bit of moisture and high humidity, which has lead to the long roots growing out of the container as shown in the previous pic. I never got those long roots coming out of the containers before when saucers are larger than the containers.

Root health at the bottom of the container is really nice too since they're not sitting submerged in water. Smaller saucers are better than larger ones if you want to bottom water.

I do use very large deep saucers for plants on blumats since bottom watering isn't necessary, and I need the extra volume for over-flows to be contained.

 

[Dave Coulier]

Shit A1 Second Harvest Update Day 92

Shit A1 Second Harvest Update Day 92

Im getting behind on updates. Sorry everyone. Ive got more pics and updates planned, so Ill try to power through a few tonight for you all.

This is Shit A1 that was first harvested at Day 67 Flowering, and now at Day 92. I left the lowest branch on her to reveg, so I can run her a second time. She never threw a single nanner that I can recall throughout flowering. Pretty rare for this line especially when taken to 90+ Days. That alone deserves her a second run in my garden.

Hmm a thought just occurred to me. I have some DP pollen just sitting on a fan leaf waiting to be picked up by a q-tip and dusted onto Shit A1. She will be revegging awhile, and the seeds will continue to develop. I think it'd be fun to grow out about 10 beans of that cross and see what comes of it. I need to add to my seed collection anyways

The pot on pot didn't pan out so well. I did have some rooting from the top pot into the bottom pot, but nothing outstanding. Im considering cutting the bottom out of pots, and doubling them up so I have more height but not the barrier in between.

Taller pots are better as they allow less of your root volume to be occupied by your PWT(Perched Water Table). Nothing to lose by going for it I suppose, plus it keeps things interesting.

 

[The Revolution]

I wonder where the purple comes from in your Durbans. The Pure Durban Poison I grew from African Seed co, had no purples in them. They were distinctively sativa. Everything about them. The overall structure of the plant, aswell as the flower structure. The plants grew tall and thin.. The branches were very long with wispy thin flowers, mostly all calyx. Not quite like the Thai sticks I see pictured beside your DP, but similar. I know Tropical Seed co did a Durban x Pakistani Chitral Kush (purple Paki); I wonder if these are related? No offense but these look more like hybrids, in the way the flowers developed as thick as they did, and the leaves resemble more of a hybrid to me. The pics I took of my African seed Durban Poison are of poor quality, but you should be able to see the difference in these. They're distinguishably pure sativa. The internode spacing in the sparse branches, the thin, long leaves. The Long, thin, wispy buds.