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Chicken shack rdwc madness.
- Thread starter Numboard
- Start date
Interesting. The product designed to remove sludge feeds it? I'll search this thread, I'll be interested in seeing how the control group was developed then, or how they are testing its ability to feed sludge. I also said I think it was bad advise, i never drew that conclusion entirely.Its possibly the most expensive additive I use, so getting rid of zymes would be killer for the pocketbook.
I would follow BigGreen's advice and stop using Hygrozyme to see if that helps.
There's a sticky in the Infirmary about slime/rot/brown algae. I believe the problem was Hygrozyme that had gone bad or was used improperly.
Numboard
Member
Still pluggin along.
Hung up my chiller manifold today. Just waiting on the pump...
Now for some plants...
^WW
root ball from biggest TW
This is the pump im going to be using for the chiller.
15 gpm 20' head. Yeah that aughta do it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hot-Tub-Circula...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa271b802
So what i plan on doing is taking 3 clones from the two plants in the middle, the ww and the TW behind it. Then im gonna toss the rest into flower just for shits so i have room in the veg buckets for the clones. Im gonna move my two new mother plants (the ww and the tw behind it) into seperate dwc buckets next to the veg set. Sound good?
Can i take clones now? or should I wait a little while longer....
Hung up my chiller manifold today. Just waiting on the pump...
Now for some plants...
^WW
root ball from biggest TW
This is the pump im going to be using for the chiller.
15 gpm 20' head. Yeah that aughta do it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hot-Tub-Circula...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa271b802
So what i plan on doing is taking 3 clones from the two plants in the middle, the ww and the TW behind it. Then im gonna toss the rest into flower just for shits so i have room in the veg buckets for the clones. Im gonna move my two new mother plants (the ww and the tw behind it) into seperate dwc buckets next to the veg set. Sound good?
Can i take clones now? or should I wait a little while longer....
Numboard
Member
Well the day has finally arrived. I took some clones this morning how do they look?
I clipped off branches 3-4 nodes down (you can see clearly in the last pic where I cut one of the clones), trimmed all the fan leaves lower the first node (first node is at top(?)) and clipped one fan leaf off the top node. Then I used a razor blade to cut the excess stem off at a 45 degree angle. Plopped the cut in my olivia's gel and went onto the next one. When I put them in the cubes a kinda pushed the stem down into the rockwool (past the pre cut hole) so that it sat in there nice and good. otherwise it tended to be all wobbly/fall out. lightly pushed the corners in and called it done. Is this good form? Amidoinitrite?
Pix now.
Left is trainwreck, Right is white widow.
^ TW cuts
^ WW cuts And yes I do use a humidity dome.
Bigger and bigger! I cut the clones off the two plants in the middle. Front middle is white widow Back middle is tw as well as all the rest of them. (1 WW, 5 TW)
Going to get all the parts for the flower room today. Gonna put the two mothers (front middle, back middle) into separate dwc buckets off to the side of the 6 set veg buckets.
The other 4 plants (all tw) are going into flower, TODAY! Will post when flower room is done
I clipped off branches 3-4 nodes down (you can see clearly in the last pic where I cut one of the clones), trimmed all the fan leaves lower the first node (first node is at top(?)) and clipped one fan leaf off the top node. Then I used a razor blade to cut the excess stem off at a 45 degree angle. Plopped the cut in my olivia's gel and went onto the next one. When I put them in the cubes a kinda pushed the stem down into the rockwool (past the pre cut hole) so that it sat in there nice and good. otherwise it tended to be all wobbly/fall out. lightly pushed the corners in and called it done. Is this good form? Amidoinitrite?
Pix now.
Left is trainwreck, Right is white widow.
^ TW cuts
^ WW cuts And yes I do use a humidity dome.
Bigger and bigger! I cut the clones off the two plants in the middle. Front middle is white widow Back middle is tw as well as all the rest of them. (1 WW, 5 TW)
Going to get all the parts for the flower room today. Gonna put the two mothers (front middle, back middle) into separate dwc buckets off to the side of the 6 set veg buckets.
The other 4 plants (all tw) are going into flower, TODAY! Will post when flower room is done
santasapimp
Member
i am trying to understand under water culture and rdwc, but with both systems i dont understand how you keep the level of water in each bucket exactly where you want it. does it all have to do with the water level in your res/controller? so these systems rely on finding out exactly how high your float valve should be placed?
im really confused =[
im really confused =[
You got it PimP..
DWC can have a controller rez with a float valve attached to a water supply. The float valve needs to be at the exact level you want your other bucket or buckets to be in as well. An air pump and airstone is required.
RDWC is the exact same concept but will require a pump to move the water around and will also require an air pump with an airstone in each bucket (preferred.)
DWC is generally a one to three bucket setup.
RDWC is definitely preferred for three or more buckets.
Either system may have a controller. I ran DWC for years with no controller but I had only two buckets and it was a manual strain to clean and refill and recalibrate nutes for each bucket. With a controller you do all the draining and cleaning at one source and that is the controller. I hope this helps.
santasapimp
Member
ya it does, thank you SDG.
My pleasure bro..
Numboard
Member
yeah since all the buckets are the same size and on the same level surface gravity keeps the water level in all the buckets the same. I don't have a float valve I just add back manually when the water level dips. Also most float valves are adjustable so the placement of the pass through hole doesn't matter too much
Zealious
Member
SUPERB! keep it up.. I love the chiller u got going on.. Very clever..
I especialy like that axial fan you have. Do you happen to know the brand or where to get that fan? Im a fan of pc fans use them in my grows all the time.. I once used a pair of 120mm 100cfm axial thermal take fans to air cool a home made reflector.. worked like a charm.
I especialy like that axial fan you have. Do you happen to know the brand or where to get that fan? Im a fan of pc fans use them in my grows all the time.. I once used a pair of 120mm 100cfm axial thermal take fans to air cool a home made reflector.. worked like a charm.
Numboard
Member
Yay! flower room is 80% done.
Just waiting on the 6" fan and the water pump
Gotta get more light chain too :x lol
Building those buckets was a paaaaaain in the ass. Doing it the second time around was a lot easier and quicker though.
Edit lol:
Got the controller hooked up to the chiller now. It keeps the antifreeze bucket at 14 degrees c all day every day.
Just waiting on the 6" fan and the water pump
Gotta get more light chain too :x lol
Building those buckets was a paaaaaain in the ass. Doing it the second time around was a lot easier and quicker though.
Edit lol:
Got the controller hooked up to the chiller now. It keeps the antifreeze bucket at 14 degrees c all day every day.
Yay! flower room is 80% done.
Just waiting on the 6" fan and the water pump
Gotta get more light chain too :x lol
I love progress
Numboard
Member
Numb,
Everything looks pretty damn solid.
There seems to be a bit of incomplete thought out there...
If you are f'n' around with RDWC (love it, by the way) look through RichyRich's sticky in the infirmary. I grew DWC without problems, relocated, and was suddenly plagued by the brown slime. The thread is stupid long... RR suggests that you just filter his posts... I've worked through it both ways... you'll get 80% of the info in 30% of the time if you follow his advice...
To sum it up: Physan20 slays shit.
Get a bottle.
It is cheaper than dirt.
On enzymes: hygrozyme's site shows comparison pictures of lettuces... with hygro used from day one and the batch with out. Hygrozyme kills it... but why? Because the enzyme is breaking down dead organics and keeping the lettuce root system clean and maximizing feeding. If you introduce hygrozyme AFTER the first day of a run, it's is going to break down all dead organics... RAPIDLY. Various bacterias consume various things... but the root rot nasties all thrive on dead organics. So... you break'em'down for them with hygro, it'll turn into a straight-up buffet for those bitches... unless you have a thriving herd of bennies that'll get to it faster than the nasties.
But do you have 'em?
RR's thread suggests continuous enoculation of EWC is enough to keep things under control... but he dropped the enzymes because they made rapid food for the nasties.
Here's the next thing to consider: The nasties dig phosphorus... so as you transition to a flower-cycle-feed, you're making their lives even easier (which is why growers are slayed in the second week of flower... out of transition feeds that start to grow the bitches, and into the full flower feeds that make'm ex-muthafukn'-plode). So... maybe don't toss in hygro now... maybe start dosing with EWC.
Alternatively, look into using a light bleach dosage into the solution per the recommendations of the elusive fatman. Rather than bio-combating slime, you just chemo your plants every couple of days.
Regardless, if you have physan20 on hand and problems show up, you have a ready solution.
Sorry for too many words. Like the shack. Keep it up.
Everything looks pretty damn solid.
There seems to be a bit of incomplete thought out there...
If you are f'n' around with RDWC (love it, by the way) look through RichyRich's sticky in the infirmary. I grew DWC without problems, relocated, and was suddenly plagued by the brown slime. The thread is stupid long... RR suggests that you just filter his posts... I've worked through it both ways... you'll get 80% of the info in 30% of the time if you follow his advice...
To sum it up: Physan20 slays shit.
Get a bottle.
It is cheaper than dirt.
On enzymes: hygrozyme's site shows comparison pictures of lettuces... with hygro used from day one and the batch with out. Hygrozyme kills it... but why? Because the enzyme is breaking down dead organics and keeping the lettuce root system clean and maximizing feeding. If you introduce hygrozyme AFTER the first day of a run, it's is going to break down all dead organics... RAPIDLY. Various bacterias consume various things... but the root rot nasties all thrive on dead organics. So... you break'em'down for them with hygro, it'll turn into a straight-up buffet for those bitches... unless you have a thriving herd of bennies that'll get to it faster than the nasties.
But do you have 'em?
RR's thread suggests continuous enoculation of EWC is enough to keep things under control... but he dropped the enzymes because they made rapid food for the nasties.
Here's the next thing to consider: The nasties dig phosphorus... so as you transition to a flower-cycle-feed, you're making their lives even easier (which is why growers are slayed in the second week of flower... out of transition feeds that start to grow the bitches, and into the full flower feeds that make'm ex-muthafukn'-plode). So... maybe don't toss in hygro now... maybe start dosing with EWC.
Alternatively, look into using a light bleach dosage into the solution per the recommendations of the elusive fatman. Rather than bio-combating slime, you just chemo your plants every couple of days.
Regardless, if you have physan20 on hand and problems show up, you have a ready solution.
Sorry for too many words. Like the shack. Keep it up.
Numboard
Member
Thanks for all the help bro^
Alright, This is heat stress right?
Thought so, SO heres what i plan on doing about it.
I'm gonna get a couple sheets of whatever thickness foam board, Cut that into pieces and press it in between the studs. Then I'm gonna get typical fiberglass insulation and fill the space between with that. Then I'm gonna lay white poly on top. Hows that sound?
I've also got this extraction fan i want to mount to a greenhouse louver vent type thing in one of the top corners of the shack.
http://k4.stylefeeder.net/thumb/ef/bf/efbf6a79d39c4ddbb6924b7ccbcac4a57e0c6c1f-200.jpg
Hopefully mounted to something like that, that I can open and close.
Then ill get some passive intake vents also similar to the one above and mount a couple of these bad boys:
To the intake. So negative pressure from all the fans in the room (big squirrel cage from above, 6 inch inline and a 4 inch inline.) will suck air through these rads which I will mount to some kind of vent. Then i will have water from our well circulate through the rads. This hopefully will cheaply and effectively keep my temps under control.
Also Im tryin to avoid using too much electricity. This was a chicken shack and I haven't upgraded the wiring at all yet. The main coming in is a super long run of stuff one size bigger than common white romex. I figure i can safely pull 30 amps through it at max so I gotta really keep the power usage down.
Alright, This is heat stress right?
Thought so, SO heres what i plan on doing about it.
I'm gonna get a couple sheets of whatever thickness foam board, Cut that into pieces and press it in between the studs. Then I'm gonna get typical fiberglass insulation and fill the space between with that. Then I'm gonna lay white poly on top. Hows that sound?
I've also got this extraction fan i want to mount to a greenhouse louver vent type thing in one of the top corners of the shack.
http://k4.stylefeeder.net/thumb/ef/bf/efbf6a79d39c4ddbb6924b7ccbcac4a57e0c6c1f-200.jpg
Hopefully mounted to something like that, that I can open and close.
Then ill get some passive intake vents also similar to the one above and mount a couple of these bad boys:
To the intake. So negative pressure from all the fans in the room (big squirrel cage from above, 6 inch inline and a 4 inch inline.) will suck air through these rads which I will mount to some kind of vent. Then i will have water from our well circulate through the rads. This hopefully will cheaply and effectively keep my temps under control.
Also Im tryin to avoid using too much electricity. This was a chicken shack and I haven't upgraded the wiring at all yet. The main coming in is a super long run of stuff one size bigger than common white romex. I figure i can safely pull 30 amps through it at max so I gotta really keep the power usage down.
I ran an old cast iron radiator off a well years ago. Drain to waste. It worked awesome... until I ran the well dry. That was awkward. And I became dirtier and thirstier every day. Was effective while it lasted though.
I like your approach... Have you considered putting one radiator in the room with forced air behind it attached to your chiller (or your intake)... but instead of just dumping it back into the chiller reservoir, hook the other radiator inline with that massive beast so you can dump as much heat out doors before it hits your chiller again?
Or...
...if you are going to circulate well water through the coup, use that instead of your compressor to control your res temps. Pump it through the res first, then all of your atmosphere radiators... (and save your amperage for something else)...
I would put my radiators where I needed the temp controlled, (i.e. by the girls) rather than on the intakes... but that's definitely just my thought.
How do the roots look?
In a total different direction:
As your temps climb, plant transpiration increases. You could try (I presume you have a passive res that tops off your recirculating...) dropping your PPM so the same quantity of nutes move through your plants on a daily basis as transpiration increases. (I see too much food rather than heat, personally. But I don't know what you're feeding at, or what your temps are.)
Good canopy on the ladies.
I like the way your brain works. (The radiator idea is something I'm working on... well not really, but an idea I have thought about thinking about working on...)
I like your approach... Have you considered putting one radiator in the room with forced air behind it attached to your chiller (or your intake)... but instead of just dumping it back into the chiller reservoir, hook the other radiator inline with that massive beast so you can dump as much heat out doors before it hits your chiller again?
Or...
...if you are going to circulate well water through the coup, use that instead of your compressor to control your res temps. Pump it through the res first, then all of your atmosphere radiators... (and save your amperage for something else)...
I would put my radiators where I needed the temp controlled, (i.e. by the girls) rather than on the intakes... but that's definitely just my thought.
How do the roots look?
In a total different direction:
As your temps climb, plant transpiration increases. You could try (I presume you have a passive res that tops off your recirculating...) dropping your PPM so the same quantity of nutes move through your plants on a daily basis as transpiration increases. (I see too much food rather than heat, personally. But I don't know what you're feeding at, or what your temps are.)
Good canopy on the ladies.
I like the way your brain works. (The radiator idea is something I'm working on... well not really, but an idea I have thought about thinking about working on...)
