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Canna Boost V Molasses - side by side comparison.

Hazy Lady

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Hi Guy's

Hi Guy's

I just started my flush too, I'm at day 53 and their last feed was day 45. Since then they have had two doses of water with molasses, today they got 2 litres each of plain water and they will get 2 or 3 more good hefty doses of plain water before they get the chop at day 60-ish.

I found out that the local farmers store sells animal feed grade molasses for 6.50 for 5 litres, which is a quarter the price of buying jars of molasses from the healthfood shop. It is just unsulphured blackstrap molasses and should work just a well, this 5 litre size is gonna last me a long time!

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That is incredible value Indi, you could start dealing, not as catchy as 'The Candy Man' more 'The Treacle Dude' but it could stick, it could stick! :biglaugh:
Good to see you Indi, don't forget to show us your finished buds.

I don't know peoples thoughts on Jorge Cervantes, but in his book he says that adding sugar (molasses) can add 20% weight to buds.

Hiya Smokey, regarding Molasses I have had 2 different results in this test, I found using Molasses alone had no effect on yield, in fact it has faired worse than the control at this moment. By comparison, when Molasses was used with Canna Boost the results have been superb, the plants receiving Boost are doing very well but add Molasses and it looks at this point to be a winning combination.
 
Hm so I wonder what is in the canna boost that helps make it work. I used it with Dutch master and a little liquid K, but I didn't compare to anything so I don't really know if if helped or hurt
 

Ganja baba

Active member
Veteran
just wanted to show you some fox tailing indica dom fox tailing , this is a pure land race from the shimla mountains x my uk pineapple , lovley fox tails
or wheat dread locks we call um ..
picture.php
 

Hazy Lady

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Beautiful, simply beautiful

Beautiful, simply beautiful

Hm so I wonder what is in the canna boost that helps make it work. I used it with Dutch master and a little liquid K, but I didn't compare to anything so I don't really know if if helped or hurt

Hiya Smokes, We have been discussing the 'magic' ingredient on and off throughout the thread, I think most are agreed it is a chemical called Tricontinol(sp?), some had found this same chemical in other 'boosters' and products that among other things claimed to also 'boost' fruit & flowers. We should come back to this now we are near the end, see what else anyone discovered?, I may be wrong but I seem to recal 2 guys on another thread were doing some tests that would determine if Tri-wotsit is the 64,000 dollar ingrediant. I will have to scroll back and PM the poster.
I intend to run more of these tests, I want to run at least one more of this one to see if I can duplicate the results, this time with another strain. It would be good to include another group or two using Tricontinol if it can be sourced and another brand Booster or two to add interest.
I will get back to you when/if I find any more on the mystery elixer :D


just wanted to show you some fox tailing indica dom fox tailing , this is a pure land race from the shimla mountains x my uk pineapple , lovely fox tails
or wheat dread locks we call um ..
picture.php

Wow, that is absolutely stunning, I have to change my desk-top pic now! Wheat dreadlocks.:D A beautiful plant Gang', thank-you for posting her:)
Edit, looks even better with a black border.
 

Hazy Lady

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It's a sticky topic

It's a sticky topic

I'm using some organic sugar cane molasses for my current indoor session (in soil, all organic except for asome PK 50/33 crystals)) and am wondering about the best way to administer the molasses.
I mean the molasses-less solution I gave them some time ago showed an EC of 1.8. Same solution with just a tiny amount of molasses (roughly size of a green pea for 1.5 liters of water) made the EC drop to 0.9 then to 1.4 after a bit of steering and temp compensation. Obviously the molasses lower the EC, some I'm wondering wether it would be better to administer it separately from the fertilizing solution ?

I'm pretty new to indoor growing and the use of EC meter, so any advise about what to do and what to avoid with molasses will be greatly appreciated !
thanks !

Irie !

Hello mriko, Nice to see you here.
I am a little confused, [so whats new? I hear you cry:D] I don't understand how the Molasses can lower EC, it may well lower PH, never had cause to check, I did just test a jar of water to be sure, 0.71EC just now, added a gram of Molasses and it's now 1.10EC
If you have plain water, adding anything that dissolves must increase the EC, no?
I used to use an expensive BluLab, it took forever to get an accurate reading allowing for temps etc, I still have it but use a £10 Ebay one now, it is accurate, if I think it needs calibrating I use distilled water and set it to 0.02 and it needs no temp adjusting, it's almost instant.
Ok I did test the PH, it dropped from 7.8 to 7.3 using 1 gram in a jar full of tap water so it is acidic. Now we know :)

If you stick to the measurements *mistress* posted you'll be fine, I think Molasses works best with nutrients though again as *m* says either way is ok. I always dilute mine in hot water, just for easier dissolving.
Finally, I am not certain which yours is but the Molasses you want should be 'blackstrap' and 'un-sulfured' :) It has the largest amounts of nutrients and non of the potentially* deadly sulphur
* Deadly for plants
5-15 ml gal. (1-3 teaspoons)
can be added to nute mix, or in separate jug. either/or.

pour into gal jug & do ec on molasses alone. see if it fluctuates, etc.

enjoy your garden!

Hi *m* :wave: Thank-you.
 

Hazy Lady

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Death by draft

Death by draft

Had a bit of a scare earlier on, I am spending a lot of time in my room as I look at the crystals changing colour, I turned a cola to face me and there was a bud, perfectly dried? a lovely silvery bud staring back at me, right in the middle of the head, lovely! if I didn't find it there!, I went to feel it, see if really was dry? and it came away in my hand. 2 leaves also came away and I feared the bud drying had set off some budrot, It doesn't look that way and I am pretty sure I know what caused it.
Though my fan oscillates I think there was one little spot on one cola, that never gets a break from the wind. I think it has simply dried it out over a few days as the plants are now well on the way to the chop, I am keeping an even closer eye now in case the bud died from mold but am sure not!, the stem on the bud was clean, white. I smoked the bud in a skin and it was lovely :), I have found a few buds over the years that died on the vine so to speak, they always seem sweeter than usual harvested buds. I knocked a pair of buds a while back when i dropped a cane, I didnt see I killed them for a while and smoked them off the plant, they are not like usual bud at all, take a side branch or a bud or two and almost sever, leave till its silver and dry and smoke it, oh they are very sticky too. just my findings :D

Harvest I will be chopping these Thursday/Friday, they will be starting week 12,( finished 11 weeks) and have had 3 full weeks flushing so plenty of time to clean them out, I will post the pics as I said a couple of posts up, See you in 2 day's.
 

Ganja baba

Active member
Veteran
hey haze lady , have you thought about trying the organic canna boost next ? tastes good not sure bout the extra yield though
 

mriko

Green Mujaheed
Veteran
Hey thanks ladies for the tips !

yeah, I don't know why it showed so low EC. Will have to test the solution before I add the molasses next time.

Finally, I am not certain which yours is but the Molasses you want should be 'blackstrap' and 'un-sulfured' It has the largest amounts of nutrients and non of the potentially* deadly sulphur

Yep, I think it is blackstrap (labelled as black molasses from sugar cane).

Irie !
 

mriko

Green Mujaheed
Veteran
I'm using some organic sugar cane molasses for my current indoor session (in soil, all organic except for asome PK 50/33 crystals)) and am wondering about the best way to administer the molasses.
I mean the molasses-less solution I gave them some time ago showed an EC of 1.8. Same solution with just a tiny amount of molasses (roughly size of a green pea for 1.5 liters of water) made the EC drop to 0.9 then to 1.4 after a bit of steering and temp compensation. Obviously the molasses lower the EC, some I'm wondering wether it would be better to administer it separately from the fertilizing solution ?

I'm pretty new to indoor growing and the use of EC meter, so any advise about what to do and what to avoid with molasses will be greatly appreciated !
thanks !

Irie !
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
5-15 ml gal. (1-3 teaspoons)
can be added to nute mix, or in separate jug. either/or.

pour into gal jug & do ec on molasses alone. see if it fluctuates, etc.

enjoy your garden!
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
:woohoo:
sure you will give unbiased reports...
& thoroughly enjoy the process of doing it!

thx again for sterility & balance in your thread.
always nice to stop by your corner...

btw, how do you quick dry? under heat, or wind? or both?

enjoy your garden!
 
G

Greyskull

hey haze lady , have you thought about trying the organic canna boost next ? tastes good not sure bout the extra yield though

i have used both 'regular' and 'bio'.
i find the boost accelerator superior to bio boost
 

Hazy Lady

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Hey hey, its chopping day

Hey hey, its chopping day

hey haze lady , have you thought about trying the organic canna boost next ? tastes good not sure bout the extra yield though

Hey thanks ladies for the tips !

yeah, I don't know why it showed so low EC. Will have to test the solution before I add the molasses next time.



Yep, I think it is blackstrap (labelled as black molasses from sugar cane).

Irie !

Hi mriko, you're very welcome, I have not used the organic version of Boost, I was advised by Canna to go with regular Boost on coco unless I was an organic grower I would be better off with the usual version.
I was saying the other day how I will run this side by side again, next time see if I can replicate the results with a different strain. I do intend to run some 'Boosts' against each other as well as the repeating of this side by'.

I am very happy with Alg-A-Mic (BioBizz) as an all round nutrient and tonic, the extra Ca and Mag is a bonus, and is organic.
I use seaweed, again organic, and if I can source some PK also organic* I could run some organic Boost as a group, I would like to see a completely
organic coco grow, I think it would add interest to the 2nd side by Boost v Molasses. I don't know which other 'boosters' I will run against Canna Boosts (reg & organic)it all depends on who donates samples :D but I do want to use the most common brands, most used by the community, and so whichever I have to buy I will get those popular versions, I guess realistically 5 in total.

The Canna boost I have to run against Molasses etc as before, plus the organic version, 2 tests/results in one that way, Canna Boost versus Organic Canna Boost, which is the better Boost, obviously things could differ in soil!. Plus we can see how a 100% organic diet fair against the chemical groups in coco. Then 3 others maybe 4 if I have enough cuts, I prefer to use 2 per group again, as before.


* I will need an organic P & K that is fast acting. I know all about blood bonemeal etc from the old days of soil but with coco it needs to be, maybe a tea, guano, bat, bird, any suggestions are most welcome, it has to be 100% organic or not worth including.




Hey thanks ladies for the tips !

yeah, I don't know why it showed so low EC. Will have to test the solution before I add the molasses next time.
Irie ! Yep, I think it is blackstrap (labelled as black molasses from sugar cane)
Yes, it was an odd result, could have been worse, I read a PH meter the wrong way once, thought it said 5.8 and it was 8.5, that did my girls the world of good!
Your Molasses sounds right :)



:woohoo:
sure you will give unbiased reports...
& thoroughly enjoy the process of doing it!

thx again for sterility & balance in your thread.
always nice to stop by your corner...

btw, how do you quick dry? under heat, or wind? or both?

enjoy your garden!

Hiya *mistress*. You are so kind, I for one am glad you do pop round so often, you taught us tons in this thread alone, you leave no stone unturned hunting facts *m*, it is really appreciated sister. :bow:

*m*, You will have seen me mention the dried bud I found yesterday?
that was bone dry, a little chewy, but you couldn't ruin it squashing as you could a wetter bud. This could only have taken 2 days, by the 3rd I had found it, I know it wasn't there as I took pics 3 days before. It really was quite a pleasant smoke, not harsh though after 3 weeks flushing I would expect oven dried bud to be smooth.
So I am thinking I will take a medium sized stem from each plant, the top 4 or 5 buds down each stem-ish, place them in front of a small fan separate from the rest drying, I am guessing 3 or 4 days realistically, I won't blast it so its crispy, just enough breeze to speed things up. the rest should hopefully take a good 8 to 12 days to get to the cure stage, it is quite colds now here and I can keep my drying closet around 60, with a gentle breeze and only enough changes of air to be safe from bud rot, it should be so much better than a 5 or 6 dayer
I will do an initial report, impressions and early smoke after the quick dried buds are done.

i have used both 'regular' and 'bio'.
i find the boost accelerator superior to bio boost

Hiya G, Just saying above I will run them side by side if at all possible, you do have a good record predicting Boost outcomes I have to admit I will expect that same outcome As usual, I have to see for myself:nanana: I guess I will have to do a non organic run against Boost regular too to see how it fairs when all things are equal. I am gonna need 20 cuts, or use only 1 of each, I prefer to have pairs though.
If I keep them single stemmed, 4 inch pots 12 inch plants I should be ok with 20 of them :D



Yeah I've read Bio Boost and Boost are the same thing, Bio just has more water in it so it takes more. What a rip!

It makes me all the more convinced it is a simple chemical (Tri-wotsit?) and not some 'sap tapping' in the rain forests! If Boost (regular) is made from jungle secretions why is that not organic? Thanks Lazyman :)
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
Hazy Lady said:
* I will need an organic P & K that is fast acting. I know all about blood bonemeal etc from the old days of soil but with coco it needs to be, maybe a tea, guano, bat, bird, any suggestions are most welcome, it has to be 100% organic or not worth including.
*soft rock phosphate 0-3-0-20 ca (have used this w/ coco)
*gypsum ~20 ca-17 s (have used this w/ coco)
*potassium sulphate 0-0-50 (suphate of potash). also contains ~17% sulfur. (have used this w/ coco) not muriate of potash.

use these & a few others.... on mineral side of garden. both mixed in lightly, & top dressed & watered when needed.
can top dress all @ same time & water in sections, like pizza, over entire season, w/ only tap water...
or, apply as top dressing on-demand.
or, mix into media. > control when mixed in... but mixed in a little+top-dressed a little :yes:=more control.

all of the ^ are water soluble & relatively immediately available to plants.

the granular form of these amendments is preferred. again, more control over solubility in granular form. can release it quickly (lots of water/drench), or slowly (watering less - but steadily, aka, fertigation).

can really run only these granular, straight mineral forms of ferts thru entire season - w/ no liquid ferts, or concentrated salts. again, heresy for coco purists.

some may come & state that your plants will drop dead, if ^ used in coco... because only 'normal' nutes & fertilizers, approved by the supreme coco council can be used...:D

dont want to bring those trolls here, so will stop w/ just those options for you, based on your request for an organic p/k booster.
although they are not 'organic'; but are mineral based. potassium sulfate is a salt.
just options...
Hiya *mistress*. You are so kind, I for one am glad you do pop round so often, you taught us tons in this thread alone, you leave no stone unturned hunting facts *m*, it is really appreciated sister.
thanks Hazy Lady;)... just have interest in gardening, not 'teaching' 'advising' 'recommending', etc, etc... just sharing what has been done; both successfully & unsuccessfully (millet didnt work in the mix).

just here to enjoy garden... thx for sharing yours w/ us...

*m*, You will have seen me mention the dried bud I found yesterday?
yes, occasionally identify & twist+snap branches/shoots for early picking. they seem to mature faster when snapped.
you were blessed by garden goddesses w/ early fruit... literally falling off the tree:)

enjoy your garden!
 

Hazy Lady

Prom Night Dumpster Baby
ICMag Donor
Veteran
*mistress* Thank-you, I should be able to find a suitable mixture with your suggestions, you may not set out to teach but trust me you are doing just that :) thanks again for your time.
I will be coming back to this later on, I would like to iron everything out pre-test next time and pick your brains some more then.

I am in the middle of doing pics before and after fans are removed, I will post soon. I will post some more later still when I have finished trimming them, I don't class as manicure till I have them off the stalk and finish completely prior to jarring :D. Back shortly.
 

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
I'm using some organic sugar cane molasses for my current indoor session (in soil, all organic except for asome PK 50/33 crystals)) and am wondering about the best way to administer the molasses.
I mean the molasses-less solution I gave them some time ago showed an EC of 1.8. Same solution with just a tiny amount of molasses (roughly size of a green pea for 1.5 liters of water) made the EC drop to 0.9 then to 1.4 after a bit of steering and temp compensation. Obviously the molasses lower the EC, some I'm wondering wether it would be better to administer it separately from the fertilizing solution ?

I'm pretty new to indoor growing and the use of EC meter, so any advise about what to do and what to avoid with molasses will be greatly appreciated !
thanks !

Irie !

can anybody explain a drop in EC with
an add of molasses??????

how does that happen???
 

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
i have used both 'regular' and 'bio'.
i find the boost accelerator superior to bio boost

Did you foliar feed with both?
Did you foliar feed in flowering?

Canna suggests all through flower.

EDIT: I sprayed Canna Boost with
Atami Bcuzz Foliar Boost (1tbsp per quart) yesterday
and see a nice bounce today.

I sprayed flower buds (which I don't usually do)
for the first time
to gauge a response.
 

onegreenday

Active member
Veteran
Originally Posted by Hazy Lady
* I will need an organic P & K that is fast acting. I know all about blood bonemeal etc from the old days of soil but with coco it needs to be, maybe a tea, guano, bat, bird, any suggestions are most welcome, it has to be 100% organic or not worth including.

As a side note here,
I just got my soil test back from the state lab
and they say my media is very high in P & K.

I use very little P & K.
I use Canna Terra in low dose and
Roots Organic HPK in low dose.

So i conclude all these PK adds may be building in
people's soils without them knowing.

My lab suggests NOT adding any more P & K.
 
G

Greyskull

Did you foliar feed with both?
Did you foliar feed in flowering?

Canna suggests all through flower.

EDIT: I sprayed Canna Boost with
Atami Bcuzz Foliar Boost (1tbsp per quart) yesterday
and see a nice bounce today.

I sprayed flower buds (which I don't usually do)
for the first time
to gauge a response.

i am very interested to hear more...
the way i have been learned (haha) to grow it was inbedded into my thick skull that foliar feeding was unneccessary. so i have some sort of prejudice against foliar stuff. it sucks, but its true...

anyhooo.... a couple shops that i frequent reccomended using Boost as a foliar - especially right when the flowers form. what i have been told about foliar feeding boost is that is the equivelant of 'mainlining steriods' while traditional root feedings of boost are more like 'taking a steriod pill'....

in a nutshell, from what i have been told (by shop heads, gasp! they are only trying to sell me something haha. the same shop heads that turned me onto boost btw) is that foliar feeding with boost at first sight of flowers is supposed to be a good thing and produce way more results than just root feeding.

so i have heard....
 

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