-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
-
ICMag and The Vault are running a NEW contest in October! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
I dont think thats TMV... I have seen OG's with TMV and half the leaf suffers chlorosis. that looks like a little burn and malnourishment.
http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/22454OG2.jpg
http://www.icmag.com/ic/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=764024&size=big&cat=&ppuser=22454
Aside from them throwing 3 leaves from light stress, this SFV_OG appears to be pretty healthy.. this what they look like in veg...
http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/22454OG2.jpg
http://www.icmag.com/ic/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=764024&size=big&cat=&ppuser=22454
Aside from them throwing 3 leaves from light stress, this SFV_OG appears to be pretty healthy.. this what they look like in veg...
somedaysoon
Member
Hey never mind what I said , just go with what toohigh said...after all it sounds better...
And good news is always better then the truth..
Your plants will never get rid of that disease,,and yes it spreads sooo
easily,to all the other strains..
Hey toohigh have you ever had plants with the disease in your garden?
Maybe you just seen pics on the internet and have become a pro..??
I've been dealing with it for a year ,had it spread from strain to strain
in multiple gardens....infect new seedlings,,transfer from all vectors
including ,hands,fungus gnats, hydro nute solution, net pots,
soil pots... I've seen all of it's various forms of symptoms and there
are many,,not just so called mottling or discoloration...
That isn't even the most common nor the worse symptoms...
Blistering, curl, stunted growth,growth stop, burnt spots on leaves
etc..etc..
I have documented it all at another site..
I know it when I see it friend,,,I've had over 100 plants
with it...
And good news is always better then the truth..
Your plants will never get rid of that disease,,and yes it spreads sooo
easily,to all the other strains..
Hey toohigh have you ever had plants with the disease in your garden?
Maybe you just seen pics on the internet and have become a pro..??
I've been dealing with it for a year ,had it spread from strain to strain
in multiple gardens....infect new seedlings,,transfer from all vectors
including ,hands,fungus gnats, hydro nute solution, net pots,
soil pots... I've seen all of it's various forms of symptoms and there
are many,,not just so called mottling or discoloration...
That isn't even the most common nor the worse symptoms...
Blistering, curl, stunted growth,growth stop, burnt spots on leaves
etc..etc..
I have documented it all at another site..
I know it when I see it friend,,,I've had over 100 plants
with it...
M
medfinder
good luck..
good luck..
good luck with those..bterzz.
but Ive been wrong before..
good luck..
good luck with those..bterzz.
but Ive been wrong before..
M
medfinder
og?
og?
well...ive had 2 ogs with a crack in the leaves like yours..these became infected and didnt show signs for a month..
good luck with those..bterzz.
Iam running sfvog bx2..chem 91..larry og.. church og..and chem d x sfv og...
i had cracks in the leafs of some of my clones from green angel of malibu...the ones in rapid rooters..turned out to be downy powdery mildew..
If it is tmv..clean any cutting tools..cutting into and exsposing plant tissue is how tmv is spread..
heres some pics..been using neem oil half a teaspoon per gallon..
but Ive been wrong before..
drywall dust huh?
anyway...using rich soil can also cause smaller plants to burn..
i use rockwool to start because u can controll what is going in to the plants from start to finish.
then i put the rockwool in 3 gallon buckets with perlite an coco.
og?
well...ive had 2 ogs with a crack in the leaves like yours..these became infected and didnt show signs for a month..
good luck with those..bterzz.
Iam running sfvog bx2..chem 91..larry og.. church og..and chem d x sfv og...
i had cracks in the leafs of some of my clones from green angel of malibu...the ones in rapid rooters..turned out to be downy powdery mildew..
If it is tmv..clean any cutting tools..cutting into and exsposing plant tissue is how tmv is spread..
heres some pics..been using neem oil half a teaspoon per gallon..
but Ive been wrong before..
drywall dust huh?
anyway...using rich soil can also cause smaller plants to burn..
i use rockwool to start because u can controll what is going in to the plants from start to finish.
then i put the rockwool in 3 gallon buckets with perlite an coco.
thebandit777
Member
Hey btrzz, I have NO experience with this TMV, nor have I heard of it, it sounds like some nasty shit....
But I do know that in some cases, using SubCulture -B- should help, and While you're at it get the SubCulture-M- too....
they are beneficial bacteria that help fight off most common diseases, i am not sure about TMV, but it won't hurt to try... Plus it's very good for your soil, ;; use as directed....
Somedaysoon, thank you for your advice, I am very interested in knowing more about this TMV disease, would I be able to convince you to maybe write more in detail about this disease....
Or maybe Copy and paste a thread about it in these forums, we can really use the INFO, since there are many OG's around here.....
----------------
Btrezz-- you can also juse the Clean CLean Clean, technique, and no matter how much you love that OG, I would NOT keep cut's off of those plants around, you will just be feeding fuel to the fire that burns in our asses
....
Good Luck, And Blessing to all!
B
But I do know that in some cases, using SubCulture -B- should help, and While you're at it get the SubCulture-M- too....
they are beneficial bacteria that help fight off most common diseases, i am not sure about TMV, but it won't hurt to try... Plus it's very good for your soil, ;; use as directed....
Somedaysoon, thank you for your advice, I am very interested in knowing more about this TMV disease, would I be able to convince you to maybe write more in detail about this disease....
Or maybe Copy and paste a thread about it in these forums, we can really use the INFO, since there are many OG's around here.....
----------------
Btrezz-- you can also juse the Clean CLean Clean, technique, and no matter how much you love that OG, I would NOT keep cut's off of those plants around, you will just be feeding fuel to the fire that burns in our asses
....Good Luck, And Blessing to all!
B
Heres some new pics,.. I am PRETTYYYY positive I DONT have TMV.
The reason for the DROOPY NESS and UGLYNESS was OVER-WATERING along with them being on my CEMENT floor which reached BELOW freezing, therefore NO ROOT growth. I put a pallet underneath them and INSTANT-growth. I'm lovinnnnn it. It also brought up the humidity.
The reason for the DROOPY NESS and UGLYNESS was OVER-WATERING along with them being on my CEMENT floor which reached BELOW freezing, therefore NO ROOT growth. I put a pallet underneath them and INSTANT-growth. I'm lovinnnnn it. It also brought up the humidity.
thebandit777
Member
they are lookin' very nice btrzzz, looks like your canopy will be nice and filled in by the time you go into Bloom Mode... Keep 'em comming
Thanks bandit. How much longer you think I should veg for? I want to get them big enough where I can put 6 under each 600w without wasting any electricity 
2 more weeks??
I have a strong feeling they're gonna TAKE off here soon. I just gave them some more root-exculerator and some big bloom with some fresh ph'd water tonight.
I also got my light ALOT closer at like 74* since the nights are cold. I have to wake up in the mornings and raise the lights before it gets above 80.
2 more weeks?? I have a strong feeling they're gonna TAKE off here soon. I just gave them some more root-exculerator and some big bloom with some fresh ph'd water tonight.
I also got my light ALOT closer at like 74* since the nights are cold. I have to wake up in the mornings and raise the lights before it gets above 80.
S
SicKSKills
you all are trippin clearly signs of overwater, also contianers on cement floor is a nono in cooler climates, watch water temp going in aswell not below high 60s. Switch em now cause they are going to blow up 4x on you.
hey bandit! where did you get that azetrol spray? my buddy got some mites and i need to help him to take care of those sob. he's got 1 more week until harvest and then we need to sterilize the room with whatever you recommend. and we got some plants in the veg room that we need to prevent those damn mites from attacking. so what's the best solution you think? thanks bro!! sorry bterzz for jumping in your thread but i saw bandit talking about mites so i had to ask him..
thebandit777
Member
Sick skills Wow SS, lets see them, lol, got any pics? How long have been growin'? Are you done learnin' or can you take any advice , lol
bterzz Yore plants are gonna stretch, and you can veg them a bit more if you want, the main thing to remember is they will need to be pulled down in veg as well as in flower all the way up until they stop stretching...
You're dong a very good job of it so far, (i don't say this lightly), and keep the tie down discipline going untull they stop strtching...
Also remember and keep in mind the Height of your room and how much further you can raise your hood... I would acctually do that right away, b/c if you are already raised up pretty high and you have not much more height, you will need to flower now.... i like to shut the lights off @ 7pm and leave them off for 24 hours until 7pm the next day and then have your timer set and ready for 12/12--from 7pm -7am, if you do your schedule any later than that you will never sleep, (I started at first 9pm - 9am, it sucked and then I went to 8pm-8am and it still sucked, never slept so once I went to 7-7 I was all good, and I would not use the daylight savings time option on your Timer, because if you think about it, when you are inthe middle of flowering and your time changes it will throw your plants off schedule and you can either end up with leafy airy buds or end up with a hermie problem, trust me ...
Next thing to remember is if you were to start flowering Now before the new time change(Spring) you want to set your timer's ACTUAL TIME ahead ONE HOUR EXAMPLE... : IF YOUR REAL TIME IS 6PM, SET YOUR TIMER @ 7PM.. AND LEAVE IT LIKE THAT FOR EVER, SO DURING THE FALL, YOUR LIGHTS WILL BE ON AT 6 PM REAL TIME AND OFF AT 6AM REAL TIME , AND IN THE SPRING YOUR LIGHTS WILL COME ON AT 7PM AND GO OFF AT 7AM..... AND THAT WAY YOUR PLANTS WILL NOT GET THROWN OFF ...
IF I CONFUSED YOU PLEASE ASK ME WHAT EVER YA WANT, BUT IF YOU READ THIS ONCE OR TWICE YOU WILL GET WHAT I MEAN, I PROMISE....
(AND PLEASE USE A "DIGITAL TIMER", B/C IF THE POWER WERE TO GO OUT IN YOUR AREA, YOU WILL NOT NEED TO REMEMBER TO RESET YOUR TIME ON IT BEFORE IT FUCKS YOUR PLANTS CYCLE UP, IT HAS IT'S OWN BATTERY AND WILL JUST KEEP TICKING WITH THE REAL TIME,
And if you have the cheap tick-Tock kind you will need to remember to go back and check to see how much time the power was off and then turn the timer back to the REAL time..
And if you forget to reset the time on it, you will go in your room @ 7pm and the lights will still be off and you will not know why unless you were at home when the power went off and you know why it's that way...
IT'S JUST A HUGE HASSEL THAT CAN BE PREVENTED BY BUYING A GOOD ECO-PLUS DIGITAL TIMER...
BRON2K I find my Azetrol @ my local garden/hydro store...or online... I would check on line if you are good with computers and searching the web...
And the best way to fight them is by preventing them... This product is OMRI Listed and it is a known Systemic, so here's what I do:
when I get my clones from a club or and unkown/outside source, i take them home and bring them in the safest way possible as to not bring them through your grow area for the sake of not contaminating your other plants or garden...take them to a garage area closest to the door to the out side of the garage or room so any that fall or walk away will go out side and hopefully find the grass and not your plants in your home or grow room...
then there I put them in a bug tupperware tote with a shop flourecent light on the tote going long ways...
Next you take as much as the foilage off from the lower part of the clone as long as you leave the growing tip and maybe the next biggest leaf from the growing tip...
Next you mix your Azetrol Solution in a one gallon bucket or a gallon of water and cut the top off of the gallon of water so you can have enough space to dip your clones in the solution so you get Full coverage on them, I even wiggle them a little as to make sure that the solution gets in to the little cracks and crevists of the clone..
Repeat this dunking in the solution (with new solution mix every time, or you will burn your cuttings) every 2-3 days for about 2 weeks and thenyou can move them into your main veg population and after that you should always keep spraying or Dunking your plants at least once a week, (I personally dunk my plants , even mother plants in 3-5 gallon pots, if course you will need to mix a bigger bucket of solution tall narrow kitchen Garbage canisters are best as to not use too much of your Azetrol .. And to hold the bucket upside down and not let the dirt fall into your solution you wanna use (Easy Liner- NOnadhesive, kitchen cubbard liner) and cut a large square with of it and cut a slit up the middle to the center of the square, and that way you can slip it through the stock of your plant and hold in as much of the soil as you can,
(and if any soil does fall in to the solution, don't worry it will not hurt your plants if some dirt stick to the leaves, it usually falls off once dry....)
BUT, on the plants that your buddy has that are already in late flower I DO NOT RECOMEND THAT YOU SPRAY THEM AT ALL...
The only thing you can do now is if they are getting webbed up on you guy's to get a Shop Vac(make sure you point the exhaust away from the other plants and vaccum the webbing off of the buds and just keep your hand cupped around the end of the Vaccum hole as to keep the hole a little smaller than the actual size of the shop vac's hose....
And just run through them like heck and suck as much of the little fucker's and their webs off of your buds....
the best way to not get to this problem is prevention and even if i don't have mites I always keep dipping my girls and studs into the Azetrol atl least once a week...
Note: use it at 1oz per gallon of water, and add some kind of wetting agent to it .....
the best time to attack your bug problem is when the cuttings are still small, and also when you get ready to go into 12/12 you want to prune your plants well on the bottoms as to not have any leaves or any foliage touching the soil in your pots so no bugs can climb on your leaves as least as possible..
And that helps tremendously b/c our plants grow so fast that they are usually all at the bottom 1/4 of the plant b4 going into flower(if you have mites, and ya never know) that is why the little fucker's always show up at the end of flowering period b/c the plant has not grown taller and they like to go to the top of the plants and build their little nests on our prized buds, ithink because it's warmer on the tops b/c of the lights being closer,
So by cleaning the lower 1/4 of the plants you will get rid of most of them if not all of them, and you will most likely not even see any at the end of blooming....
An also let your friend know that he needs to hang his buds upside down on a string for drying and just barely dip the stems of his branches in some "Tangle Foot- pest barrier" so that when the mites instinctively crawl up the branches and get to the top of the branch they will stick to the Tangle Foot Glue and DIE
, AND THEY WILL NOT CRUISE DOWN AND AROUND YOUR SPOT AND FIND ANOTHER PLANT....
ANd then when your bloom room is cleared out and nothing in it just keep all your equipment and tray's etc etc... and let out a couple Pyrethium Bombs in there and let it sit there sealed for a day, and then after that day then air the room out very good before going in there for long periods of time.....
Clean your bloom room and equipment and get the next round going.....
Good luck yall..... Any other questions are welcome anytime....
Creator Bless your Homes and Families....
bterzz Yore plants are gonna stretch, and you can veg them a bit more if you want, the main thing to remember is they will need to be pulled down in veg as well as in flower all the way up until they stop stretching...
You're dong a very good job of it so far, (i don't say this lightly), and keep the tie down discipline going untull they stop strtching...
Also remember and keep in mind the Height of your room and how much further you can raise your hood... I would acctually do that right away, b/c if you are already raised up pretty high and you have not much more height, you will need to flower now.... i like to shut the lights off @ 7pm and leave them off for 24 hours until 7pm the next day and then have your timer set and ready for 12/12--from 7pm -7am, if you do your schedule any later than that you will never sleep, (I started at first 9pm - 9am, it sucked and then I went to 8pm-8am and it still sucked, never slept so once I went to 7-7 I was all good, and I would not use the daylight savings time option on your Timer, because if you think about it, when you are inthe middle of flowering and your time changes it will throw your plants off schedule and you can either end up with leafy airy buds or end up with a hermie problem, trust me ...
Next thing to remember is if you were to start flowering Now before the new time change(Spring) you want to set your timer's ACTUAL TIME ahead ONE HOUR EXAMPLE... : IF YOUR REAL TIME IS 6PM, SET YOUR TIMER @ 7PM.. AND LEAVE IT LIKE THAT FOR EVER, SO DURING THE FALL, YOUR LIGHTS WILL BE ON AT 6 PM REAL TIME AND OFF AT 6AM REAL TIME , AND IN THE SPRING YOUR LIGHTS WILL COME ON AT 7PM AND GO OFF AT 7AM..... AND THAT WAY YOUR PLANTS WILL NOT GET THROWN OFF ...
IF I CONFUSED YOU PLEASE ASK ME WHAT EVER YA WANT, BUT IF YOU READ THIS ONCE OR TWICE YOU WILL GET WHAT I MEAN, I PROMISE....
(AND PLEASE USE A "DIGITAL TIMER", B/C IF THE POWER WERE TO GO OUT IN YOUR AREA, YOU WILL NOT NEED TO REMEMBER TO RESET YOUR TIME ON IT BEFORE IT FUCKS YOUR PLANTS CYCLE UP, IT HAS IT'S OWN BATTERY AND WILL JUST KEEP TICKING WITH THE REAL TIME,
And if you have the cheap tick-Tock kind you will need to remember to go back and check to see how much time the power was off and then turn the timer back to the REAL time..
And if you forget to reset the time on it, you will go in your room @ 7pm and the lights will still be off and you will not know why unless you were at home when the power went off and you know why it's that way...
IT'S JUST A HUGE HASSEL THAT CAN BE PREVENTED BY BUYING A GOOD ECO-PLUS DIGITAL TIMER...
BRON2K I find my Azetrol @ my local garden/hydro store...or online... I would check on line if you are good with computers and searching the web...
And the best way to fight them is by preventing them... This product is OMRI Listed and it is a known Systemic, so here's what I do:
when I get my clones from a club or and unkown/outside source, i take them home and bring them in the safest way possible as to not bring them through your grow area for the sake of not contaminating your other plants or garden...take them to a garage area closest to the door to the out side of the garage or room so any that fall or walk away will go out side and hopefully find the grass and not your plants in your home or grow room...
then there I put them in a bug tupperware tote with a shop flourecent light on the tote going long ways...
Next you take as much as the foilage off from the lower part of the clone as long as you leave the growing tip and maybe the next biggest leaf from the growing tip...
Next you mix your Azetrol Solution in a one gallon bucket or a gallon of water and cut the top off of the gallon of water so you can have enough space to dip your clones in the solution so you get Full coverage on them, I even wiggle them a little as to make sure that the solution gets in to the little cracks and crevists of the clone..
Repeat this dunking in the solution (with new solution mix every time, or you will burn your cuttings) every 2-3 days for about 2 weeks and thenyou can move them into your main veg population and after that you should always keep spraying or Dunking your plants at least once a week, (I personally dunk my plants , even mother plants in 3-5 gallon pots, if course you will need to mix a bigger bucket of solution tall narrow kitchen Garbage canisters are best as to not use too much of your Azetrol .. And to hold the bucket upside down and not let the dirt fall into your solution you wanna use (Easy Liner- NOnadhesive, kitchen cubbard liner) and cut a large square with of it and cut a slit up the middle to the center of the square, and that way you can slip it through the stock of your plant and hold in as much of the soil as you can,
(and if any soil does fall in to the solution, don't worry it will not hurt your plants if some dirt stick to the leaves, it usually falls off once dry....)
BUT, on the plants that your buddy has that are already in late flower I DO NOT RECOMEND THAT YOU SPRAY THEM AT ALL...
The only thing you can do now is if they are getting webbed up on you guy's to get a Shop Vac(make sure you point the exhaust away from the other plants
and vaccum the webbing off of the buds and just keep your hand cupped around the end of the Vaccum hole as to keep the hole a little smaller than the actual size of the shop vac's hose.... And just run through them like heck and suck as much of the little fucker's and their webs off of your buds....
the best way to not get to this problem is prevention and even if i don't have mites I always keep dipping my girls and studs into the Azetrol atl least once a week...
Note: use it at 1oz per gallon of water, and add some kind of wetting agent to it .....
the best time to attack your bug problem is when the cuttings are still small, and also when you get ready to go into 12/12 you want to prune your plants well on the bottoms as to not have any leaves or any foliage touching the soil in your pots so no bugs can climb on your leaves as least as possible..
And that helps tremendously b/c our plants grow so fast that they are usually all at the bottom 1/4 of the plant b4 going into flower(if you have mites, and ya never know) that is why the little fucker's always show up at the end of flowering period b/c the plant has not grown taller and they like to go to the top of the plants and build their little nests on our prized buds, ithink because it's warmer on the tops b/c of the lights being closer,
So by cleaning the lower 1/4 of the plants you will get rid of most of them if not all of them, and you will most likely not even see any at the end of blooming....
An also let your friend know that he needs to hang his buds upside down on a string for drying and just barely dip the stems of his branches in some "Tangle Foot- pest barrier" so that when the mites instinctively crawl up the branches and get to the top of the branch they will stick to the Tangle Foot Glue and DIE
, AND THEY WILL NOT CRUISE DOWN AND AROUND YOUR SPOT AND FIND ANOTHER PLANT....ANd then when your bloom room is cleared out and nothing in it just keep all your equipment and tray's etc etc... and let out a couple Pyrethium Bombs in there and let it sit there sealed for a day, and then after that day then air the room out very good before going in there for long periods of time.....
Clean your bloom room and equipment and get the next round going
.....Good luck yall..... Any other questions are welcome anytime....
Creator Bless your Homes and Families....
Thanks everyone for the advice.
I plan to let them grow out of any last shock they're still in. Some of the leaves on the plants that got hurt most are still a little curled and sad looking. Maybe I'll veg for another week.
Additionally, I want to get 1.5 oz's per plant...what would be my best way to achieve this?
I want to spray them with some Neem Oil a couple days before I flip to 12/12, as well as get a digital timer. Are there any good digital dual outlet timers that will run both lights (1200w+)
I also want to re-mount my to the end of my filter and have the flex ducting going to my light from there so I dont have as many curves while im running both lights, keeping it nice and cool.
I plan to let them grow out of any last shock they're still in. Some of the leaves on the plants that got hurt most are still a little curled and sad looking. Maybe I'll veg for another week.
Additionally, I want to get 1.5 oz's per plant...what would be my best way to achieve this?
I want to spray them with some Neem Oil a couple days before I flip to 12/12, as well as get a digital timer. Are there any good digital dual outlet timers that will run both lights (1200w+)
I also want to re-mount my to the end of my filter and have the flex ducting going to my light from there so I dont have as many curves while im running both lights, keeping it nice and cool.
thebandit777
Member
You don't need the Dual outlet ones, although the Eco-Plus that I recommend has two outlets but the company says not to plug two 1000w lights to it...
You don't need to anyways. I have always plugged it into the wall and then I plugged my two ballasts into a Power Strip(Surge Protector, and get the better ones for safe's sake, no need for the best one, just not the CHeapest)
So I plugged my ballasts into the Surge Protector, and the Surge Protector into the timer...
I have always done it this way and it is the best way for me without buying a timer for every ballast.
Good luck!
B
You don't need to anyways. I have always plugged it into the wall and then I plugged my two ballasts into a Power Strip(Surge Protector, and get the better ones for safe's sake, no need for the best one, just not the CHeapest)
So I plugged my ballasts into the Surge Protector, and the Surge Protector into the timer...
I have always done it this way and it is the best way for me without buying a timer for every ballast.
Good luck!
B
