browning pistils early?

[watts]

last time i had early brown pistols was from an accidental male in veg room autoflowering. So could be that or you got a hermie in there and your plants got pollinated.

 

[gimmedirizzla]

lol .. Let me be more clear. you should PH after you have mixed up your nutrients except if your using that brand of nutrients.. If I add nutrients to my water it will drop it to 5 I have to adjust after I add the nutrients to the water adjust the pH as needed. this is true for the majority of all nutrients you use. Most of the nutrients I have used are ACIDIC. Doesn't matter what your water is before you add your nutrient's it will change it to a lower value then what it was unless your tap water is 5.. It will not have a effect effect if you do it like I suggested. . IMO thats a big mistake to PH your water before adding the nutrients. This would require you to PH the food 2x. I dont care what the ph of the water is from the tap. The nutrients will change it I guarantee you that. Adjusting the pH after all the Nutrients have been added is the most used practice. If I adjust PH before I add the nutrient's the PH will be way off you will be feeding very acid food. You would need to PH the nutrients again if done like that. I have used numerous diferant vendors they all are acidic.. If your doing Organics None of this matters.

I feed by EC OR PPM not by PH. I do not follow the direction on the bottles. The mix would always come out way to hot for my liking.

I mix up my 30g res to 2ec@6.3-6.8 for flower.. I use Pure Blend Pro bloom and some tea's.....I use to use other crap. I have stopped Since going Organic. I never have the same pH mix in a row. Monday its 6.3 Wednesday its 6.5 Friday it's 6.8...I start back @ 6.3 the next week.

Thanks hammerhead man that was very informative. When i bought the majority of the equipment i was a bit off budget so i tried to save wrongly on the EC/PH/PPM combo meter. I have already order it by now
In my case i believe by adding ph down to the tap water (PH8.0)till i get it to 6.0 ph and then adding the nutrients must got it down to 5.5 - 5.8 - Too acidic??

 

[gimmedirizzla]

Not saying its your problem but prematurely browning pistils is one of the symptoms of broad mites. I have a thread in the sticky section of the infirmary

Hey Grow tech thanks for stopping by
I have placed an order for PH meter and a 100x microscope. I had a magnifier till now.
I read your post (well not the whole of it) and lucky if i get my microscope tomorrow so i can check for pests. Magnifier showed nothing until now. Hope its not pest problem.

 

[gimmedirizzla]

http://www.progressive-growth.com/hydroponic_recipe-bio_bizz.php

in here you'll find that it shows to ph to 7.0 prior to mixing bio bizz. A DRO (digital read-out) will show that once mixed, PH will be optimum


Right now i am feeding on column 4 and the ph ends up at 6.1 but thats without algamic and heaven slightly under 2ml/L

Thanks a lot. Already contact the grow-shop owner for my order. Told him about that and gave him the link. He told me that some yellowing is possible at my stage but it might came 1 week earlier than usual. Also that i should not flush because salt built up is not very common with biobizz and that the pH is not much off because biobizz does not get water very acidic after addition.. I cant wait to test this for my shelf. And also to add a couple more ml/lt with a max of 3ml/lt grow because pots are to small and plant is really tired by now
What do you recon should i flush with plain water before feed this time?

 

[gimmedirizzla]

Brown pistils? Means it's ready to harvest, or nearly ready, depending on how many of the pistils are brown.
When half to 3/4 of the pistils are brown, pull it.

I hope not Nogin
i am sure they need at least 3 weeks to fatten up
and another for flushing
I am waiting for the microscope to check the trichromes. Hope no cloudy yet.....

 

[gimmedirizzla]

last time i had early brown pistols was from an accidental male in veg room autoflowering. So could be that or you got a hermie in there and your plants got pollinated.

Thanks for your answer watts
I bought feminized mix pack from royal queen seeds BUT i also flowered a bag-seed of some very old local outdoor Mediterranean seed. I checked for male flowers at every 2-5 days. Never saw nothing similar to the web images. No bananas no anything questionable. Every calyx has pistils and i haven't seen any male flower.
I might gave some stress to the plants because of humidity, temperature, small pots, high distance from light etc. and many more i dont even know. Is there possible i triggered hermification? Hey im still learning here

 

[Grow Tech]

Hey Grow tech thanks for stopping by
I have placed an order for PH meter and a 100x microscope. I had a magnifier till now.
I read your post (well not the whole of it) and lucky if i get my microscope tomorrow so i can check for pests. Magnifier showed nothing until now. Hope its not pest problem.

The fact your plants are from seed makes the likely hood of it being broad mites less likely. All the case of BM I've heard of came from infected clones. BM are present on non-cannabis plants in my area so being introduced from the environment IS possible but all the case I've seen came from clones being passed. IMO every grower should have a hand scope so I'm glad u have one on the way whatever your issue. Best of luck getting it resolved!

 

[hereigrow]

Ok that blow me away
Bingo and Bingo!
I had the fan typhooning on them because i was afraid for mold (86%)and then i bought the dehumidifier (39%)and didn't change the setup
What did happen to that particular crop of yours hereigrow

Did soil ph test kit 10 mins ago it is around 6-6.5 not very accurate
Sould i flush? with water off what ph?

Well that particular time was my first run witha new space and setup...but I just lowered my fan speed and set it to oscilate...turned off one exhaust fan and set a 5 gallon bucket of water to raise humidity....they eventually started producing some more fresh white pistils..in the end prob cut my harvest by 15%or more.

I figured let them run its course and start again fresh when done.without so much fan action directly on the canopy.

As far as ph goes , just like some others here stated , just adjust your solution before you feed and you should be good in most cases. I like a good plain water feed once a week or so....lmk know how things turn out ..oh ya I perfer soilless methods modified Lucas with nova series,kool bloom,and silica blast .you will burn youe stuff up feeding like I do in a soil set up....lol

 

[Talonted]

Thanks a lot. Already contact the grow-shop owner for my order. Told him about that and gave him the link. He told me that some yellowing is possible at my stage but it might came 1 week earlier than usual. Also that i should not flush because salt built up is not very common with biobizz and that the pH is not much off because biobizz does not get water very acidic after addition.. I cant wait to test this for my shelf. And also to add a couple more ml/lt with a max of 3ml/lt grow because pots are to small and plant is really tired by now
What do you recon should i flush with plain water before feed this time?

There isn't any salt build up with BioBizz. salts are ferts
yep plain water is fine. from 7.0ph'd plain water and then adding all your bio food, the ph ends up at 6.1 for the #4 column on the biobizz feeding chart that you have. so almost 1.0 down from where it was. column 4 is pretty much the same as 3-6. So just giving you an idea of what your ph will be at once you add your food.

 

[Talonted]

Yes it is correct that some people will argue that organics in most cases do not need to be flushed but, in the case where no flush has been done, there is still food in the plants system and it does come out in your end result. Let them dry out somewhat in between flushing too. The Bio bizz is rich and doesn't leech from the soil as fast so letting them dry up but not completely in between allows them time to "eat whats left". The process doesn't take very long as they are used to eating quite a bit at that stage.

 

[RipVanWeed]

Pistil color is not the best indicator of finishing for a plant. Pistils of different strains react differently at different times.

ANY foliar spraying has a good chance of browning the pistils, just like your pic.

I had to look at this thread cuz unexplained, browning pistils is a broad mite issue. Doesn't look to me like you got 'em. Broad damaged pistils shrink back, as well as turn brown. Plus your leaves all look healthy, mostly hungry to me.

Don't sweat the pistils....watch for calyx swellge to stop and trichs to cloud and then turn amber.

When you gots your ph and feeding squared away alittle better they won't color up like that till later. Alot can happen at the end, don't short yourself by chopping early. Nearly everybody here pushes the limit on minimizing days in flower, I like taking a strain thats new to me past reccomended # of days in flower.

Try this a couple of times and you can forget pistils and even trichs, as you'll see the plant "finish". Trichs can be tricky, cause where do you get the sample from. Sugar leaves will be amber to the naked eye, while most caylyxs on the main colas sport trichs that are still clear.

Take 'em long and relize their full potential, the only strain whose high really benefits from early harvy is Green Crack.

Sorry 'bout the ripening rant...blame it on the Jameson and Holy Grail OG

Good Luck,

 

[gimmedirizzla]

Marry Christmas Guys

I have to wait a couple off hours to check the run off.

Ive made my nutrient mix but didn't pH it yet. It should be around 7.5 right now considering tap water after 24 hours had a ph of 8.5 maybe more

Quick Questions:

Is there any nutrient deficiency causing browning pistils?

Also have realized that

1. In the other side of the closet where i have the 1week younger dwarf plants and the air flow is lower not even 1 brown pistil exists.

2. The younger plants are doing great by feeding from the same mix .In Biobizz feeding chart the vegetation period is 2 weeks and not 6 which i did. So my soil might have already washed out and lost some of its properties

3. A ph nutrient lock should happened to both young and older plants right?

hereigrow, Talonted, RipVanWeed thank each one of u for the posts

Anyway ive been cooking all day and im very tired

I'll post the results and photos tomorrow

 

[Talonted]

yep, 6 weeks in a pot and then flowering for another 2 months is your main booboo. and ya young or old, they would go through a lockout but in this case your younger ones are happy. 10 days before you want to flower. transplant them into the final size pot that they will be in and you'll never have that problem again.

 

[3dDream]

Why is this not normal? Don't plants make flowers and the make new ones when the time runs out on the first set. I mean we are preventing these ladies from making seeds, they are sorta freaking out making so many flowers. A sativa in my setup can make pistils in 4 cycles. That means I can see waves of brown pistils and new flowers 4 times. I think you are just seeing the first wave of old pistils and new growth.

 

[Midnight Tokar]

Brown pistils? Means it's ready to harvest, or nearly ready, depending on how many of the pistils are brown.
When half to 3/4 of the pistils are brown, pull it.

Absolutely not! Do not determine harvest by the pistils, go by the Trichs!
Pistils can turn brown for many reasons, touching, pollination, insects etc.

 

[gimmedirizzla]

Hello there ic

Finally got them today (microscope + ph meter) after 2 days delay due to Christmas.

I should have get those on the first place.
Its much easier and accurate to get a ph reading as you all probably know.
The microscope could be better in terms of quality but i can even do myself a sperm count so what more a man could ask for!

Anyway the results.

1. After two hours of careful scoping i found none bug/pest/foreign object under and over the leafs stems or buds

2. Trichromes are 10-20% cloudy at some of the older bigger plants no amber color at all

3. New pistils have formed next to the brown ones

As it concerned the ph

1. Test tap water after 24h > PH 8.4

2. Nutrient Mixture after another 24h> PH 7.4

3. Adjust with pH Down > PH 6.3

4. Test run off > PH 6.8

So what that means?

Could my soil pH be 7.3 and causing Nitrogen lock out?

Ps:found an article somewhere saying that by collecting from the runoff the first 130 or so ml you can get an accurate reading so i did it that way

6.3pH in > 7.3 pH soil > 6.8 pH out is this correct?


Ps2: i had to take off a lot of fan leafs because i could not see them with out getting depressed

 

[gimmedirizzla]

Hello there ic

Finally got them today (microscope + ph meter) after 2 days delay due to Christmas.

I should have get those on the first place.
Its much easier and accurate to get a ph reading as you all probably know.
The microscope could be better in terms of quality but i can even do myself a sperm count so what more a man could ask for!

Anyway the results.

1. After two hours of careful scoping i found none bug/pest/foreign object under and over the leafs stems or buds

2. Trichromes are 10-20% cloudy at some of the older bigger plants no amber color at all

3. New pistils have formed next to the brown ones

As it concerned the ph

1. Test tap water after 24h > PH 8.4

2. Nutrient Mixture after another 24h> PH 7.4

3. Adjust with pH Down > PH 6.3

4. Test run off > PH 6.8

So what that means?

Could my soil pH be 7.3 and causing Nitrogen lock out?

Ps:found an article somewhere saying that by collecting from the runoff the first 130 or so ml you can get an accurate reading so i did it that way

6.3pH in > 7.3 pH soil > 6.8 pH out is this correct?


Ps2: i had to take off a lot of fan leafs because i could not see them with out getting depressed

 

[gimmedirizzla]

how the hell did i do that one^^

how the hell did i do that one^^

yep, 6 weeks in a pot and then flowering for another 2 months is your main booboo. and ya young or old, they would go through a lockout but in this case your younger ones are happy. 10 days before you want to flower. transplant them into the final size pot that they will be in and you'll never have that problem again.

Hey man thanks for the reply
i knew that's too much in the back of my mind but "if you don't get your ass wet you wont catch a fish" as a local saying goes. in other words i am new to the sport and this was a lesson.

Why is this not normal? Don't plants make flowers and the make new ones when the time runs out on the first set. I mean we are preventing these ladies from making seeds, they are sorta freaking out making so many flowers. A sativa in my setup can make pistils in 4 cycles. That means I can see waves of brown pistils and new flowers 4 times. I think you are just seeing the first wave of old pistils and new growth.

thanks 3dDream somehow i noticed today many new pistils forming
its my first grow so i know... i should be at the new growers forum

 

[Talonted]

Could my soil pH be 7.3 and causing Nitrogen lock out?

Ps:found an article somewhere saying that by collecting from the runoff the first 130 or so ml you can get an accurate reading so i did it that way

6.3pH in > 7.3 pH soil > 6.8 pH out is this correct?


Ps2: i had to take off a lot of fan leafs because i could not see them with out getting depressed

A high PH does mean that not all nutrients are going to be available to the plant, optimal PH levels should start in veg around 6.5 and taper down to 6.0-5.9 during flower. Removing fan leaves is ok as the plant grows, they tend to do it on their own but some people like to open the plant up to allow more light through the canopy. I have even read that some people remove the majority of the fan leaves in the last 2 weeks. I don't do this but i do remove a handful from each plant every other day as i use 20gal pots.

If you can get that run off below 6.5 the plant should start to eat again but i would usually expect 5 days between fixing the problem and the plants full recovery. In your case, they are high ph and tired of their pots. Best you can do is 3 waterings with a ph of 6.3 and wait until the plant responds before returning to your feeding schedule.

 

[gimmedirizzla]

A high PH does mean that not all nutrients are going to be available to the plant, optimal PH levels should start in veg around 6.5 and taper down to 6.0-5.9 during flower. Removing fan leaves is ok as the plant grows, they tend to do it on their own but some people like to open the plant up to allow more light through the canopy. I have even read that some people remove the majority of the fan leaves in the last 2 weeks. I don't do this but i do remove a handful from each plant every other day as i use 20gal pots.

If you can get that run off below 6.5 the plant should start to eat again but i would usually expect 5 days between fixing the problem and the plants full recovery. In your case, they are high ph and tired of their pots. Best you can do is 3 waterings with a ph of 6.3 and wait until the plant responds before returning to your feeding schedule.

ok man that was very of you to answer
but you made me question myself about >>

1. Is my soil ph 7.3? i must know if i got my calculation right?

2. to get runoff of 6.3 from the first watering do i have to feed them with ph of 5.3 next watering ? is this correct? I know that i should lower the ph slowly and three waterings is nice but just hypothetically speaking