Broad Mites?

[opt1c]

jesus christ do people even read anymore... avid doesn't do jack with broad mites; if it takes care of your mite problem than you don't have broad mites... kontos is a new type of miticide that actually gets into the plant and moves from the roots to the new growth shoots; broad mites love to fuck with the meristem which is constantly being created meaning that if the plant is growing and you treat it with something like avid it's not going to protect the meristems where all the broad mites are going to move... kontos can be used as a foliar or a drench and is effective both ways..... all you are doing with avid is making an even more avid resistant strain of mites... avid works on the common mites but not broad mites; it also doesn't work as an ovicide for broad mite eggs from my experience; just scope after a dunk if you don't believe me.... forbid works as well but some species are already resistant to it; kontos is new enough where the mites have yet to develop a resistance.... ogbiowar is great for flower but you are setting yourself up for failure if you are going to rely on avid alone as a chemical control.... you might also want to get some phantom; the generic for pylon to combat the toxicity from the mites as that can do more damage to the plant than the mite itself.... i really don't understand why people are still stuck on avid; shit doesn't work anymore... i have avid, floramite, tetrasan25, and pylon... nothing worked until i hit the room with kontos ONCE and they are gone. feel like i'm talking to myself here

 

[siftedunity]

jesus christ do people even read anymore... avid doesn't do jack with broad mites

this is the list from the avid label, showing what mites it can treat:


Mites:

​

​

1​

European Red Mite​

Twospotted Spider

Mite
Camine Spider Mite
Southern Red Mite
Spruce Spider Mite
Tarsoneimid Mites​

​

​

3​

Cyclamen and​

Broad Mites

Eriophyid Mites:
Rust and​

​

​

Bud Mites​

http://www.syngentaprofessionalproducts.com/pdf/labels/SCP896AL6A0904.pdf​

​

​

 

[Some old dude]

Forbid

Forbid

My name is Watson and I have Broad Mites.:frown There's been a heavy weight on my chest ever since I found out! But thanks to this thread there's now hope where there was despair. I decided to begin reading around half way thru the thread as 75 pages felt easier than 150! Because of this I'm sure I've missed some explanations on issues I'll be bringing up, I apologize in advance for that. I must adamantly agree that there should be a FAQ created based off this thread, I also get that it would be tricky as new things are still being developed to deal with this scourge.
FYI, I used a 30x and 100x scopes to confirm the presence of BMs.

QUESTIONS
Heat treatment! I have a semi large room with 6 4x4 tables yet I only have 4 1000w mh lights on movers, getting my temp up to 120 is gonna take some work, I was curious to hear what other peeps have done to achieve 120?

One idea I've been considering is to buy 'portable propane heaters', anyone have any thoughts on that, clearly the big question is would the exhaust of those things hurt my plants?
here is a link to an emissions pdf. https://www.cpsc.gov//PageFiles/112559/co03.pdf
I honestly am not sure what to make of this, I'd love to hear anyone elses thoughts after checking out this pdf.

Here are amazon results that show what I'm considering http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=PORTABLE%20PROPANE%20CATALYTIC%20HEATER%20

I read in a comment early on that some thermometers don't do so well in the hi heat, what kind have people been using without problems?

next subject>>>>>
I've ordered OGBIOWAR, but have a few questions about this process.
Should I only atomize this product? or can I dunk? I'm just worried that atomizing wont get it all where as dunking, especially if I use a wetting agent, gets everything. What are peoples thoughts on this?
What could I use to break surface tension that wouldn't hurt the OGBIOWAR?
There seems to be a consensus that brewing OGB tea is better than just mixing into water, is it a big difference?
OGBIOWAR and humidity, my rooms RH stays around 50%, one idea I have is to set up a tiny drip system onto one or two of my hoods, any thoughts?
One of my fears is that if I get my RH up past 60% I'll be aiding any PM that may be floating around, which I've had problems with on and off, any thoughts on this? Could it be that OGBIOWAR also handles PM?

I use a Tall Boy water filter with special chlorine filter, is that enough or should I go out and buy purified water by the gallon for tea brewing?

NEEM + OGBIOWAR? My instinct says bad idea, your thoughts please?

SULFUR + OGBIOWAR? seems like burning sulfur once in a while shouldn't hurt any bennies. Thoughts?

I've read in a few comments about the success of a Kontos soil drench. That seems odd to me, how does a soil drench help with BMs?

What is the "Cyclamen hook"?

My game plan at this point:
2 dunks into AVID 4 days apart, followed by OGBIOWAR 2x weekely for a month then once a week for 6 more months, and once every 2 weeks after that. (I only do indoor fyi). And provided I can get my room up to 120 doing regular heat treatments from now on, say once a month or something. Any thoughts, recomendation, or alteration on this plan?

THANK YOU, this threat has been quite the learning experience! Keep it up, oh and can we all just get along in here! Everyones entitled to their own opinion, and nobodies perfect...

I will give my opinion on some of your questions.

Never ever use those heaters that use gas of any kind they will ruin your plants and kill you.

I would use only forbid/judo if your going to use poison (but you don't have to.) As forbid kills adults and more important eggs. I don't care what other people say about this if you use forbid/judo in a light/small amount way less than is advocated in many places. This will not be harmful to plants if you do as stated. Plants will suffer if you use too much. Use it twice about ten days apart.

I bought extra 1200 watt halogen lights (2 sets) Carefully take off glass protective covers to expose the light bulb and be careful so nothing comes in contact with the bulb like water ect to set on the floor to bring up temps. Some people buy space heaters that have no thermostat. (hard for me to find) Noticed one in my doctors office room forgot to ask where to buy them.Make sure there is zero air movement in room during heating.Put thermometers at canopy level and slightly below in different locations to monitor heat level.

OG biowar works I believe, Also I believe it has properties to keep the mites away (like makes the plants undesirable to bugs) I used it twice a week for about three weeks now only twice a month thinking of trying only once a month. I use bottled spring water 89 cents a gallon. Water must be non chlorinated. I just mix it alone with water at recommended concentration easy. Also worked on my Avocado small growing tree I planted in yard that was looking exactly like it had broad mites. Three weeks later now getting new green growth sites all over it after i thought it was going to die from dead leaves all over it.

If you want to get super anal serious like i did Swirski mites work excellent as a broad mite predator. I put (The sachets) all over my yard and room for three months. new (sachets) every month.If I left anything out maybe someone else can help you. GL.

 

[hellawatson]

@opt1c, I've just spent the last several days reading over 1200 commetns, maybe it's due to my reading at the crack of dawn habits but I swear your comment is first I've read that AVID does not work on BMs, I've read 100 times that Floramite doesn't work tho. It also seems siftedunity disagrees with your assesment...

@SOD, firstly I'd like to throw props your way for being such a strong and well spoken advocate for the 'green' approach! I'm slowly coming your way, if I can figure out how to keep my RH up hi without PM problems maybe I will try the OGBIOWAR tactic first. After using OGB how long would you say until I can be sure they're mostly dead, 1 week, 2 weeks? My memory says that you don't use Aspirin, is that correct and why not? Seems like a good option to reduce toxins and chances of duds? No propane heat, gotcha. And do you have any opinion on dunk vs. atomize vs spray?

 

[hellawatson]

A note on Electric heaters with therm shutoffs: I'm a diy kinda guy, I'm also more a of a tech person all in all. Electric heaters are usually very simple devices, it wouldn't take much for the average shmo to open one up, locate the therm overheat and bypass, in some cases the therm overheat may be built into the dial which can also easily be bypassed. If you try this be sure to unplug first, du. If you have absolutely zero understanding of electrical appliances and things like hot and neutral then maybe you'd better not attempt this, just saying... And if you do attempt this and burn down your world, you're on your own.

 

[Some old dude]

OGB

OGB

@opt1c, I've just spent the last several days reading over 1200 commetns, maybe it's due to my reading at the crack of dawn habits but I swear your comment is first I've read that AVID does not work on BMs, I've read 100 times that Floramite doesn't work tho. It also seems siftedunity disagrees with your assesment...

@SOD, firstly I'd like to throw props your way for being such a strong and well spoken advocate for the 'green' approach! I'm slowly coming your way, if I can figure out how to keep my RH up hi without PM problems maybe I will try the OGBIOWAR tactic first. After using OGB how long would you say until I can be sure they're mostly dead, 1 week, 2 weeks? My memory says that you don't use Aspirin, is that correct and why not? Seems like a good option to reduce toxins and chances of duds? No propane heat, gotcha. And do you have any opinion on dunk vs. atomize vs spray?

Actually, OGB is not a contact instant knock down killer. It works by infecting feeding bugs (mites) cuticles and eating them basically with fungus. It may take an infected mites three or four days to die and that's after it gets infected.The good thing is these infected mites carry the infection to other mites and their offspring. I would say if you have a bad broad mite infestation and you spray twice a weeks after the second or third week you should not notice any live mites. I would suggest doing a single heat treatment prior to OGB treatments.As heat will kill 99 to 100 percent of all mites (and eggs) in the entire room if done properly. I have not used a heat treatment lately (last two months) and scope plants bi-weekly and see no mites or eggs at all. In my program I have been spraying with a regular pump sprayer every two weeks now. Started twice a week then every week then every two weeks. I did use aspirin with good results when some strains still showed the effects of the toxin. Next grow will be the first grow without the use of aspirin as the plants look great...!I know it's been said (and i believe it to be true about humidity) However I never worried about it and i live where the rh gets down to 10-20 outside and around 30-50% inside .I would also say that while I have no scientific proof of this .I believe OGB acts like a mite/bug "Super Deterrent" GL, all the very best.

 

[headimonster]

personally im too lazy to go thru 157 pages, but if it hasnt been mentioned already...

Forbid; by Bayer,Contact killer & Its an ovacide as well, kills eggs, and its trans laminar, meaning spray on either side of foliage, itll work....I know its a chem miticide, but my logic on that is id rather apply a few times in veg, than have something destroy all my hardwork...just my 2cents....I still apply 5-6 days after first spray, and then switch to a different miticide 5 days following, just to be sure they are dead...

also bomb with Beethoven; if you have access to, a friend turned me on to them, and it seemed to do great things for cleaning greenhouses before planting....i guess time will tell....

good luck everyone. these things are a def. PITA, and like other users reported, tough to spot to the untrained eye, I think i can spot the issues a mile away now,


tough issues = learning experiences, ....can only go up from there....(no pun intended)

 

[Some old dude]

The "Bro-Science Technique".....

The "Bro-Science Technique".....

1. Do the "Heat treatment" properly to clean grow rooms (no live plants) 3-4 hours at least 120 degrees. 1 hour in room with live plants 115-120 degrees.

2. Do OG-Biowar treatments (Foliar spray) after heat treatment twice a week for three weeks then once a week for a month then twice a month as a maintenance program (Maybe even once a month after a period of time).

3. All soil or soil-less mother plants or any soil container plants sprinkle crushed up Mosquito dunk powder on top of soil. Water in to eliminate the possibility of flying bug vectors.

4. Done...!

I probably should have said this would be if you are starting from your mothers getting things ready for a time of taking cuttings to get ready to put in a clean room. But this basic system still applies for after you have harvested and setting up for a new run. You should not have to do this every time you make a new run of clones from your mother plants. (But you can if you feel the need). I heat treat my new clones that have been put in flower room one time after they are established 1-2 weeks in. Then OGB foliar spray about three times 10 days apart and then no spray the second half of flower. I do all this with the knowledge I probably do not have broad mites anymore...LOL ,this is what my experience with these lil F**kers has done to me.At least my family and friends are not ingesting Forbid anymore...! As with any labor and material intensive operation like organic growers provide it comes with a cost of time and material. And a sense of sleeping well knowing your not poisoning people. I believe when people learn what they are ingesting they will donate a slightly higher cost maybe 5-10 percent for clean meds. It's ok if people do not want this they will still have a choice for the operations that soak the medicine in poison (A little secret... most do).

 

[opt1c]

Avid used to work; mites are super resistant to that shit... unless you live somewhere in the middle of nowhere and nobody grows around you it might work but otherwise you're just wasting your time... i would never recommend floramite for bm's but i was just using it as an example of a miticide that didn't work as well... same with the tetrasan25; should work... doesn't.... judo isn't an ovicide... forbid and kontos are... kontos is systemic and gets in the plant allowing it to get into new growth... forbid not so much... if you want one and done it's kontos... and dustin's unique items has it CHEAP so you don't have to break the bank.. i have no affil with the guy but i ordered one saturday with express shipping and it arrived monday; my garden is looking much better thanks to it.... a dipshit friend of mine who was transplanting for me decided to bring two of his mother plants into my room for some reason which were totally infected... i decided to do an avid dip when i found out as i didn't want to use the kontos repeatedly... needless to say the avid didn't do dick to the eggs and there were living moving mites under the scope 2 days later... i haven't seen many people who've just used avid coming back to talk about their success with these bastards; other types of mites sure... whole reason i am in this thread is because avid didn't work for me... first mite i've encountered that wasn't even phased by it.... talking from experience here not what is on the label so when they come back and you still have issues you have only yourself to blame

 

[opt1c]

and i have to thank storm shadow; he turned me on to the kontos... read his posts if you don't believe me

 

[Some old dude]

Judo/Forbid

Judo/Forbid

Avid used to work; mites are super resistant to that shit... unless you live somewhere in the middle of nowhere and nobody grows around you it might work but otherwise you're just wasting your time... i would never recommend floramite for bm's but i was just using it as an example of a miticide that didn't work as well... same with the tetrasan25; should work... doesn't.... judo isn't an ovicide... forbid and kontos are... kontos is systemic and gets in the plant allowing it to get into new growth... forbid not so much... if you want one and done it's kontos... and dustin's unique items has it CHEAP so you don't have to break the bank.. i have no affil with the guy but i ordered one saturday with express shipping and it arrived monday; my garden is looking much better thanks to it.... a dipshit friend of mine who was transplanting for me decided to bring two of his mother plants into my room for some reason which were totally infected... i decided to do an avid dip when i found out as i didn't want to use the kontos repeatedly... needless to say the avid didn't do dick to the eggs and there were living moving mites under the scope 2 days later... i haven't seen many people who've just used avid coming back to talk about their success with these bastards; other types of mites sure... whole reason i am in this thread is because avid didn't work for me... first mite i've encountered that wasn't even phased by it.... talking from experience here not what is on the label so when they come back and you still have issues you have only yourself to blame

Judo/Forbid Exact same chem exact same. Different name for legal reasons is only difference exactly the same product. Just as "Oberon" is the exact same product as well. Only difference with Oberon is it is the commercial version of Judo/forbid that is registered for fruit and vegetable crops and it is one half the strength.27%.. Judo/Forbid 54% for ornamental.I will be the first to admit I have used things before that others have sworn by and I found they would not work for me however.

 

[oldmanriver1]

neem oil is an antifungus so using with ogb would be counterproductive. Does anyone know how to get kontos in australia?

 

[Thomas Paine]

Avid used to work; mites are super resistant to that shit... unless you live somewhere in the middle of nowhere and nobody grows around you it might work but otherwise you're just wasting your time.

That is the dumbest thing I have ever read on this thread.

It works for the rest of the world, including farmers with acres of crops, but not your marijuana's super BM's huh?

Come on now - there are people here that need help.

Wake the fuck up and stop spreading your inane drivel.

 

[Thomas Paine]

i dipped plants in avid and there were still mites moving on em 2 days later like nothing happened.... also didn't do jack to the eggs

You haven't read the info on Abemectin (Avid). Otherwise you would not of said the above comment.

It is a translaminar mitacide, meaning once on the plant it travels to the other parts of the plant and creates a reservoir of poison in the plant cells. Anything that bites it will die.

However, mortality in mites takes about 4 days, but they stop feeding and do not lay anymore eggs.

Avid is not an ovacide. It will not kill eggs.

Any eggs that do hatch have to eat immediately, and they die shortly after their first meal.

Try a back and forth with Avid then Forbid (or Kelthane, Kontos, Phantom, ect.)

Neem oil will kill the eggs, but beware of spraying on young plants and foliage that isn't well rooted.

 

[hellawatson]

OGBIOWAR and Powdery Mildew, will the first combat the second? Will my attempts to raise my rooms RH only make any PM outbreaks worse? Or is the ogb so amazing that I'll not have to worry about PM?

Wasn't having any PM trouble until this BM problem got worse, assuming weekend immune system due to BM toxins. Any thoughts?

 

[RetroGrow]

OGBIOWAR and Powdery Mildew, will the first combat the second? Will my attempts to raise my rooms RH only make any PM outbreaks worse? Or is the ogb so amazing that I'll not have to worry about PM?

Wasn't having any PM trouble until this BM problem got worse, assuming weekend immune system due to BM toxins. Any thoughts?

Aspirin stimulates the plant's immune system.
OGB doesn't combat PM.

 

[humble_gardener]

I just picked up a product I saw recommended by Storm Shadow, Regalia. It's an OMRI approved biofungicide. It's supposed to protects against many different kinds of molds, including powdery mildew. It's also supposed to boost your plants immune system and natural defenses.

I think he mentioned it when talking about bringing back a plant that has been affected by BM toxin.

Might be worth checking out.

 

[hellawatson]

Thx RG, my hope is good cleaning and healthier plants will mean no PM before I start spraying anything for it...

Does this forum have any sort of advanced searching capabilities?

Seems the Aspirin drops my Ph quite a bit, along with my nutes, I'm simply gonna use (blue) ph up to fix that, right?

Thx for the feed back, peeps

 

[hellawatson]

Oh and as of now I've gone into 2 (different brand) space heaters and found bypassing the thermal switches a breaze.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Actually, OGB is not a contact instant knock down killer. It works by infecting feeding bugs (mites) cuticles and eating them basically with fungus. It may take an infected mites three or four days to die and that's after it gets infected.The good thing is these infected mites carry the infection to other mites and their offspring. I would say if you have a bad broad mite infestation and you spray twice a weeks after the second or third week you should not notice any live mites. I would suggest doing a single heat treatment prior to OGB treatments.As heat will kill 99 to 100 percent of all mites (and eggs) in the entire room if done properly. I have not used a heat treatment lately (last two months) and scope plants bi-weekly and see no mites or eggs at all. In my program I have been spraying with a regular pump sprayer every two weeks now. Started twice a week then every week then every two weeks. I did use aspirin with good results when some strains still showed the effects of the toxin. Next grow will be the first grow without the use of aspirin as the plants look great...!I know it's been said (and i believe it to be true about humidity) However I never worried about it and i live where the rh gets down to 10-20 outside and around 30-50% inside .I would also say that while I have no scientific proof of this .I believe OGB acts like a mite/bug "Super Deterrent" GL, all the very best.

You are only purchasing the foliar pack correct? I assume there's no benefit from what ive read to mixing in the root drench when spraying for mites. Besides im using the Heisenberg tea for drench.