Broad mites thread part 2

[Mikell]

Translaminar is better than your previous treatment of contact sprays for a pest whose habits resist such measures.

But systemic was what you were looking for.

Black magic. Witchcraft. Voodoo hoodoo thatjudu.

Grow mums. Rotate systemics with contact dunks. Win. People fucking pussy foot too much. We don't have broads up here (or at least on the island as far as I know). But we have a lot of people pussy footing with contacts, losing, and using Product X well past anyone's admission of the lastest they've applied it.

Set a schedule for remediation, follow up maintenance if needed and at the same time, one to sanitize incoming material.

Condoms only work if you put them on.

 

[mojave green]

Easiest and best prevention method is stop bringing cuts into your space! Not complicated, non toxic.!

 

[Timm]

Sounds to me like broad mites have settled into your environment not just in the grow room do you have any trees or greenery near by? Broad mites should not be able to survive heat, avid/forbid/pylon

I had broads but they were gone after getting rid of everything taking clones and dipping them in avid / forbid twice 5 days apart. Then followed up with OG-Biowar every 3 days. The fact you've had them for 2 years is crazy stuff. They are not that hard to get rid of

 

[Bubbamaniac]

Translaminar is better than your previous treatment of contact sprays for a pest whose habits resist such measures.

But systemic was what you were looking for.

Black magic. Witchcraft. Voodoo hoodoo thatjudu.

Grow mums. Rotate systemics with contact dunks. Win. People fucking pussy foot too much. We don't have broads up here (or at least on the island as far as I know). But we have a lot of people pussy footing with contacts, losing, and using Product X well past anyone's admission of the lastest they've applied it.

Set a schedule for remediation, follow up maintenance if needed and at the same time, one to sanitize incoming material.

Condoms only work if you put them on.

I'm pretty sure Avid and Pylon are not just contact killers, but exactly what you recommended as in a translaminar pesticide! You've never had broad mites? I would literally rather have a dump truck of thrips, spider mites and root aphids dumped on my grow!

Easiest and best prevention method is stop bringing cuts into your space! Not complicated, non toxic.!

I'm pretty sure I mentioned that I started from seed this is my "hard" restart. I'm well aware of never taking in cuts ever again, whether you have a quarantine or not it's just not worth it. Thanks for the advice anyways though...

Sounds to me like broad mites have settled into your environment not just in the grow room do you have any trees or greenery near by? Broad mites should not be able to survive heat, avid/forbid/pylon

I had broads but they were gone after getting rid of everything taking clones and dipping them in avid / forbid twice 5 days apart. Then followed up with OG-Biowar every 3 days. The fact you've had them for 2 years is crazy stuff. They are not that hard to get rid of

Thanks Timm for that perspective I thought the same thing myself, but was wondering how this is so. My space is in the middle of the concrete jungle. It's an apartment building that I purchased, it's 2 units up and 2 units down. The surrounding area is all concrete with a gravel parking lot. The tree lawn is grass a very small amount at that. It's literally an area that is all brick, concrete and gravel. As far as being settled in my environment I'm sure there probably all through the building they must be. I'm sterilizing the whole place every time I go there. I have a separate Hudson style atomizer that is dedicated for bleach solution. I start from the basement and work my way up. The bottom two units are empty and the top two have some plants. I just have too move them when I bleach the vapor can really burn them to hell, if you are not careful and move plants back in too soon. Plants are starting to look better, I think vigilance is what's going to get me through this. I'll post some pics in a few days. Today I did a foliar spray of horticultural oil and the plants seemed to really enjoy it.... I'll post some pics here soon...

 

[JOJO420]

Flying Skull Nuke Em.
I'm beating them with this. Takes time and $$ but I am winning.

 

[Mikell]

The price of those oil mixtures makes my balls hurt.

You are correct on Avid and Pylon. Of your list, most are contacts.

I think the winter keeps them away, like root aphids. I have seen the latter outdoors but never hear of the damage it does down south.

Vigilance, yes. Are you able to dunk? Even a larger plant can be dunked in a garbage can with the lid cut up as a cover to hold soil back.

I always sound like a prick but mean nothing by it.

Look for an older article, around 1915-20, on broad and cyclamen. It details their habits and mobility quite well.

https://archive.org/stream/cyclamenmitebroa301smit/cyclamenmitebroa301smit_djvu.txt

Or I can do it.

 

[Cadfael]

Conserve is working for me. I am spraying every 3 days. If a plant clawed or showed damage (from the infamous toxin they release when they die) I pulled that plant and killed.

But I am so scared shitless of these little fuckers, I will be trying Tessa's Spraying everyday idea. I do not want to be fighting these for the next two years.

 

[Timm]

Thanks Timm for that perspective I thought the same thing myself, but was wondering how this is so. My space is in the middle of the concrete jungle. It's an apartment building that I purchased, it's 2 units up and 2 units down. The surrounding area is all concrete with a gravel parking lot. The tree lawn is grass a very small amount at that. It's literally an area that is all brick, concrete and gravel. As far as being settled in my environment I'm sure there probably all through the building they must be. I'm sterilizing the whole place every time I go there. I have a separate Hudson style atomizer that is dedicated for bleach solution. I start from the basement and work my way up. The bottom two units are empty and the top two have some plants. I just have too move them when I bleach the vapor can really burn them to hell, if you are not careful and move plants back in too soon. Plants are starting to look better, I think vigilance is what's going to get me through this. I'll post some pics in a few days. Today I did a foliar spray of horticultural oil and the plants seemed to really enjoy it.... I'll post some pics here soon...

As I understand broad mites need plant material to survive. I agree with your earlier post that there is not enough information about broad mites out there, I remember going through the same dilemma. How long after spraying avid/pylon are you seeing new mites appear? are you monitoring things with a scope?

Have you tried dipping clones rather than spraying?

 

[Bubbamaniac]

Flying Skull Nuke Em.
I'm beating them with this. Takes time and $$ but I am winning.

I have nuke 'em, I've tried it before and followed there broad mite recommendation of using strong strength 3 times in one day and there follow up. I'm sure it helps but they caused my plants leaves to burn up a bit. I will throw it into my ipm program to keep them guessing lol.

The price of those oil mixtures makes my balls hurt.

You are correct on Avid and Pylon. Of your list, most are contacts.

I think the winter keeps them away, like root aphids. I have seen the latter outdoors but never hear of the damage it does down south.

Vigilance, yes. Are you able to dunk? Even a larger plant can be dunked in a garbage can with the lid cut up as a cover to hold soil back.

I always sound like a prick but mean nothing by it.

Look for an older article, around 1915-20, on broad and cyclamen. It details their habits and mobility quite well.

https://archive.org/stream/cyclamenmitebroa301smit/cyclamenmitebroa301smit_djvu.txt

Or I can do it.

Thanks Mikell I'm in the Midwest. I'm not sure but I do believe broad mites can survive mild winters, as in they can go into stasis, or hibernation. This has been more then a headache. I've tried nuclear options I'm heavily weighing the idea here in a few weeks after the miticides of trying grandevo, and predator mite species, lots of people have been suggesting this route.

Conserve is working for me. I am spraying every 3 days. If a plant clawed or showed damage (from the infamous toxin they release when they die) I pulled that plant and killed.

But I am so scared shitless of these little fuckers, I will be trying Tessa's Spraying everyday idea. I do not want to be fighting these for the next two years.

I hope it works for you! I just picked up a bottle of conserve s.c. Also that has come highly recommended. I have to get through this even if it means releasing predators for a square mile lol...

As I understand broad mites need plant material to survive. I agree with your earlier post that there is not enough information about broad mites out there, I remember going through the same dilemma. How long after spraying avid/pylon are you seeing new mites appear? are you monitoring things with a scope?

Have you tried dipping clones rather than spraying?

I've talked to that guy over their at Everwood farms who claims to be an expert when dealing with broadmites, he claims they can never be eradicated, but can be kept in check to keep on going. I recently spent over 5,000 dollars in seeds that are chilling in my fridge, and I, not popping anymore until the problem has been resolved. I do have a microscope it's a dinolite basic it goes up to 220x magnification, the problem is the resolution is pretty poor. I'm currently shopping for a new usb microscope, any suggestions? ### Also before I even knew what was going on I was bringing home used soilless medium and using it to fill the flower beds around my house ( I don't grow mj here) my girl always plants tons of flowers and from what I was seeing is that the plants all seem to be suffering from broad mites as soon as I can get a new scope I'm going to investigate the flower beds around my house as a possible vector for re-infection! By hell or high water I will get through this keep it coming everybody and thanks....

 

[Coughie]

I've talked to that guy over their at Everwood farms who claims to be an expert when dealing with broadmites, he claims they can never be eradicated, but can be kept in check to keep on going.

(This isn't directed at you..)

Seriously?!

I haven't seen broad mite -related stresses in any of my plants, in a few months now. Eradicated with the use of predator mites, after neem-daily and spinosad-daily foliars did nothing.

Actually preparing to place another order for predatory mites, as a safety measure, because it's so damn easy. Totally preventative, at this point.


It took me two orders, of a combination each order, of fast releasing 1L cans of bran, coupled with slow release sachets, of two different species of predatory mites.

Each predator has a favorable climate that they do best in, and they're all vary slightly, so it's important to invest in more than one species, to give your environment the best shot of carrying one predatory species out for the duration.

The fast release shaker cans give you an immediate flood of hungry individuals to decimate the given population, while the slow release sachets insure there's a breeding population continually finding its way out to the prey sources as the pests/prey try to resume their breeding cycles.

I spaced the two orders about 6 weeks apart, but if I were to do it again, I'd order them a month apart. There's also various forms of supplemental food you can provide for the predatory mites to try and achieve a breeding population.

"Banker plants" <- anyone who's serious, read about that.

Oh, and sprays containing things like neem, essential oils, or anything that'd kill a spider mite, will do your predatory mite population in just the same... IPM routines have to change when predators enter the space..


HTH

 

[_tessarecting]

Lol @ Everwood that is a sales gimmick if I ever heard one...

Im sitting in my bm free garden right now. Feelsgoodman!

It can be done...

 

[frostqueen]

In general, in the future I would take clones of every strain you want to keep (while they are clean) and give them to as many other growers as you can to make sure you have backups available.

Edited: I meant BEFORE you get broad mites, people. Obviously. That way if you get broads you will have clean back-ups...? I'm not sure anybody is stupid enough to do this after... wow.

 

[bigblue72]

I would take clones of every strain you want to keep and give them to as many other growers as you can to make sure you have backups available.

yes and spread the broad mites far and wide

 

[Bubbamaniac]

(This isn't directed at you..)

Seriously?!

I haven't seen broad mite -related stresses in any of my plants, in a few months now. Eradicated with the use of predator mites, after neem-daily and spinosad-daily foliars did nothing.

Actually preparing to place another order for predatory mites, as a safety measure, because it's so damn easy. Totally preventative, at this point.


It took me two orders, of a combination each order, of fast releasing 1L cans of bran, coupled with slow release sachets, of two different species of predatory mites.

Each predator has a favorable climate that they do best in, and they're all vary slightly, so it's important to invest in more than one species, to give your environment the best shot of carrying one predatory species out for the duration.

The fast release shaker cans give you an immediate flood of hungry individuals to decimate the given population, while the slow release sachets insure there's a breeding population continually finding its way out to the prey sources as the pests/prey try to resume their breeding cycles.

I spaced the two orders about 6 weeks apart, but if I were to do it again, I'd order them a month apart. There's also various forms of supplemental food you can provide for the predatory mites to try and achieve a breeding population.

"Banker plants" <- anyone who's serious, read about that.

Oh, and sprays containing things like neem, essential oils, or anything that'd kill a spider mite, will do your predatory mite population in just the same... IPM routines have to change when predators enter the space..


HTH

Nice Coughie I'm definitely leaning this direction I have to let the avid, and pylon run its course before I place the order, what mites do you use? I was thinking Swarski, cucumeris, and I believe californicus? This sounds like a winning idea I'm glad your out of the woods and I pray you stay clear... Reordering is definitely a good idea! The way I look at it is a few orders of predatory mites and pulling down big healthy gardens I'm sure off sets the losses due to broad mites I say money well spent!

Lol @ Everwood that is a sales gimmick if I ever heard one...

Im sitting in my bm free garden right now. Feelsgoodman!

It can be done...

Thanks Tesserecting I'm trying my ass off I've tried too ask you some questions about your methods and never got any response cheers, and enjoy your freedom from these bastards, and may they never return!

I would take clones of every strain you want to keep and give them to as many other growers as you can to make sure you have backups available.

Sorry Frostqueen but in this situation that is thee worst possible idea that could be applied here. In knowing what I'm dealing with, by spreading these mites to other growers that would be super unethical, and in all honesty just plain old assholish! I've already lost a stable that I collected over the last twenty years, the new seed plants I have can be reordered.

yes and spread the broad mites far and wide

I don't want to take any shots at anyone, I might of been a little hard on Frostqueen, but let's just say this much I hear you loud and clear!

 

[Coughie]

Nice Coughie I'm definitely leaning this direction I have to let the avid, and pylon run its course before I place the order, what mites do you use? I was thinking Swarski, cucumeris, and I believe californicus? This sounds like a winning idea I'm glad your out of the woods and I pray you stay clear... Reordering is definitely a good idea! The way I look at it is a few orders of predatory mites and pulling down big healthy gardens I'm sure off sets the losses due to broad mites I say money well spent

I went with swirskii and cucumeris myself, but califonicus wouldnt be out of the question either.

Place the order though, most places will put you out a week or so, depending on their ordering deadlines... Look into it, you dont want to wait too long or the lag time between when the avid wears off and the predators gets there, will kill whatevers left. Wont be much to save / it'll be harder to save.

If the predators show up / get shipped sooner than you thought, foliars of plain h2o will help to rinse away anything the predators might come in contact with.

Check the shipping arrangements though, for sure

 

[Bubbamaniac]

Thanks Coughie, I'm on it, not too mention I'm going to have to start cleaning up I literally covered the floors with diatomaceous earth. It's easy enough to clean up though, I know those types of insecticides mechanical killers that is just kill everything. The thought was that it would be more difficult to spread them creating a harsh environment, like moving across the floors would be impossible. Or even if becoming air born and landing in d.e. Would be a death sentence. I'm stubborn as f*#+ and giving up is not an option I'm a good grower and have been doing this for more then half my life I'm not getting pushed out by a bug... I think I will release predators through out the building even In areas that are not being gardened in.

When I bought the building it was a trap house for dope boys! Upon getting the building and evicting those wonderful tenants. We discovered our first pest problem the dreaded bed bug! We had an exterminator come through and he sprayed for them and he spread d.e. But not very much. The bed bugs remained, and the exterminator came back and sprayed heavier shit, bed bugs returned. So I researched bed bugs and all the pros said that d.e. Was the most effective killer, but it was also the one that takes the longest to work 100%. So I went down to city hall and got a copy of the plan for the building, I then found out how the building was laid out and how it was built. Now I went through the whole place and drilled holes in between every stud and pumped d.e. Powder into every space. Next I disassembled the air duct system from the furnaces and the returns and blew d.e. Threw them with some equipment I borrowed from a serve pro my homeboy owns until d.e. Was coming out the other end. I coated the basement in d.e. The whole damn place had d.e. In it. I started my build outs and after 1-1/2 years not one bed bug, it wasn't easy but I eradicated the building of them. I sleep there when trimming and trust me that shit grosses me straight out I have a house where I live and kids I would never even dare of bringing bed bugs home. If I could get threw that I can get through this... I know many people on here are just laughing and saying why can't this dude get rid of these things? Trust me these feckers are a mother......

 

[Scrappy-doo]

Interesting read on broad and cyclomen mites by th US Dept of Agriculture.

https://archive.org/stream/cyclamenmitebroa301smit/cyclamenmitebroa301smit_djvu.txt

 

[HL45]

I battled em for 6 months rotating through all of the 'cides at 3 different locations...spent thousands, lost almost 6 months of production at one spot... heat treatments and swirskiis are the only thing that saved me. I haven't seen the them in years now. The 'cides are good when bringin in new genetics, however if you accidentally infect yourself in midflower, beneficials are the only thing you can rely on.. you can't spray or heat treat in week 4.. but if you have a population of beneficial bugs they will devour any broads that are introduced to your garden. Pretty straightforward logic for me...some people have used essential oils to get rid of them, personally I order beneficial bugs almost every month and no longer worry about em..I saw russets on one plant once and just threw it away.. other than that broads are a thing of the past for me.


I would order swirskiis, and then heat treat the rooms every day while you are waiting for the swirskiis to arrive. Just keep ordering them. And then order more and realize that you will never stop ordering them.it's much easier for me to put a sachet or 3 of swirskiis on a plant instead of spraying ... just my 2 broad mite free pesos

 

[frostqueen]

edited my original comment.

 

[Timm]

I battled em for 6 months rotating through all of the 'cides at 3 different locations...spent thousands, lost almost 6 months of production at one spot... heat treatments and swirskiis are the only thing that saved me. I haven't seen the them in years now. The 'cides are good when bringin in new genetics, however if you accidentally infect yourself in midflower, beneficials are the only thing you can rely on.. you can't spray or heat treat in week 4.. but if you have a population of beneficial bugs they will devour any broads that are introduced to your garden. Pretty straightforward logic for me...some people have used essential oils to get rid of them, personally I order beneficial bugs almost every month and no longer worry about em..I saw russets on one plant once and just threw it away.. other than that broads are a thing of the past for me.


I would order swirskiis, and then heat treat the rooms every day while you are waiting for the swirskiis to arrive. Just keep ordering them. And then order more and realize that you will never stop ordering them.it's much easier for me to put a sachet or 3 of swirskiis on a plant instead of spraying ... just my 2 broad mite free pesos

Lol that's got to be the laziest IPM approach I've ever seen

Predator mites alone won't work to get rid of broad mites. The broad mites multiply way too fast for the predator mites to eliminate them. There have been a few studies done saying indoor beneficial bugs are no good for broads. But they will reduce the population and knock them back a bit