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are coco nutes necessary?

cemchris

Member
Foliar with Calmg and you bypass all the he said she said of what works in coco. Never have to worry bout lockouts. Simply it works. Also you need to hit them hard with calmg the first two weeks of bloom. Will eat up all the reserves.

Most nutes have ample Calmg already in them (Nova series and H&G). As said before calmg is so over diagnosed its not even funny on these boards. Shit H&G is WAY up there on Mg.

You dont need Coco nutes. Yes Canna Coco works great but so does all the other Canna lines in Coco. H&G's Coco was formulated for run to waste. Was shit compared to Aqua Flakes.
 
Citric acid should be at your health food store. It may be labeled as ascorbic acid. Vitamin pills would be fine, although I don't know what other fillers they may contain.


citric acid and ascrobic acid arent the same thing.....JUST STATING

citric acid found in citruses.....ascorbic acid = another name for pure vitamin c
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
^^^ true. Ascorbic acid is great to remove chlorine and chloramines from water though, that is what I use. It's very hard to remove chloramines from water; bubbling, etc., doesn't work. So using ascorbic acid is the way to go, ~0.1 gram per gallon. I simply add a little and then test water with a cheap chlorine test kit from pet store.
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the info guys. Where do you get citric acid for plants, for ph down. Should I dissolve some of my left over vitamin C pills?

You can get citric acid from beer/wine brewing/fermenting shops, I get 56 grams from ~$3. Earth Juice pH down is critic acid. Getting pure grandlued citric acid from a beer brewing shop is the best option IMO, either online or a store.
 

ambertrich

Active member
Veteran
for the original question, I have used FNB, the 3 part Flora series (well really two part as used Lucas or Rez/Head formula) and the CNS17 nutes in coco.
All worked well, the FNB is a bit of a mess and a workout to mix well, I like the CNS17 just for the ease of use - and it doesn't stain everything.
May give the dry Maxibloom a try next, seems even easier.

One of the reasons I love coco, just kicks ass all over the place.
 
D

dramamine

citric acid and ascrobic acid arent the same thing.....JUST STATING

citric acid found in citruses.....ascorbic acid = another name for pure vitamin c


Huh, you're right about that. Sorry for that, I always thought they were the same thing. Thanks, buddin...
 

Incognegro

Member
ive seen yes and no. it seems like adding additional cal mg is all thats needed , right?

I've used coco for years, using organics and hydro nutes.

I've always used Fox Farm nutes, and needed Cal-Mag when I started using RO water.

Went almost full hydro this time, and am using Cannas nutes, no Cal-Mag needed...using reg tap water, not RO, plants fucking love it! So that means I do too!! No need to buy water..:dance013::dance013:
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
RO water is lacking Ca and Mg ions, those that comprise water alkalinity. That could account for why you had to supplement with Fox Farm, which is pretty light in Ca to begin with IIRC.

RO water is not an ideal (or even good) choice to use when growing plants with soilless or hydro, it's much better, and cheaper, to filter water through plain sphagnum peat moss; unless water is very hard (i.e. > 350 ppm).

Here are few quotes of mine from this thread: "pH keeps climbing WTF?" (link)
Using RO water is a poor choice due to it's low pH buffering ability due to lack of water alkalinity.

...

If [water alkalinity is] > 80 to 100 ppm then filter your tap water though a fairly dense bit of plain sphagnum peat moss to reduce alkalinity. Ideally your water should have alkalinity of 40-60 ppm to prevent pH swings up or down.

...

The filter trick comes from aquarium keepers, and it works well. If you filter with plain s.peat it will not only reduce the alkalinity, but also the hardness of water because hardness is comprised (mostly) of alkalinity ions (e.g. Ca and Mg, etc.).
 

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