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a wicked pulse

M

mcfly420

Active member
found this interesting
picture.php

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...Y0Ge35&sig=AHIEtbRLbi1Ti7Gg-y9Hizy_BDwUNMwkjA
 
TURBD

TURBD

Member
You guys need to nerd out in a lighting thread. Lol jk
I find it interesting. Don't understand it all. But after I get other shit dialed and have nothing else to worry about I will come back here and learn something maybe.
Bring on some pics of some sick plants all ready!!!
 
johnnyrotten

johnnyrotten

Member
delta9nxs said:
hey! yep, i'm still using it at the .666 ratio.

the jack's ratio is formulated for distilled or ro water. i'm currently using it at that ratio with 110 ppm at .5 tap water. no problems for me but you may not be so lucky if your water reads much higher than that.

when i used coco in these i would pour a heavy dose of nutes through the medium one time. over 2000 ppm or ec 4. i did it immediately after a heavy rinse with the coco still wet.

i got none of the ion exchange issues that coco growers report.

an inch of air gap is not enough. the height of the perched water table in coco is probably right around 1.75-2".

you need a minimum of 3" and 4" would be better.

again, the best containers i've seen for limited headroom are the 3 gal rubbermaid totes. using 2 of them stacked you can have a total height to top of medium of only 11-12". that would leave you 5.5 ft for plant. dark blue or black will block light.
Click to expand...

D9, do you mean that I should have 3-4 inches of wick that isn't submerged in nutrients for a 3-4" air gap when using coco?
 
johnnyrotten

johnnyrotten

Member
delta9nxs said:
hey! yep, i'm still using it at the .666 ratio.

the jack's ratio is formulated for distilled or ro water. i'm currently using it at that ratio with 110 ppm at .5 tap water. no problems for me but you may not be so lucky if your water reads much higher than that.

when i used coco in these i would pour a heavy dose of nutes through the medium one time. over 2000 ppm or ec 4. i did it immediately after a heavy rinse with the coco still wet.

i got none of the ion exchange issues that coco growers report.

an inch of air gap is not enough. the height of the perched water table in coco is probably right around 1.75-2".

you need a minimum of 3" and 4" would be better.

again, the best containers i've seen for limited headroom are the 3 gal rubbermaid totes. using 2 of them stacked you can have a total height to top of medium of only 11-12". that would leave you 5.5 ft for plant. dark blue or black will block light.
Click to expand...

D9, do you mean that I should have 3-4 inches of wick that isn't submerged in nutrients for a 3-4" air gap when using coco? Just want to clarify before I start cutting...
 
village green

village green

Member
I may have understood half of what Delta and McFly posted but I can see that this effect on plant growth has a lot of promise. Have either of you found any citations outlining more of a macro approach? Is there an experiment where someone has measured yield and not just growth rate with various light levels and intervals.

Leaving aside questions of wear and tear on ballasts or bulbs, what if any do these findings mean for cycling lights off and on during the "day"? Do we know enough to say how long they could be off and be on to see optimal growth? Would supplementing with constant low light bulbs be better or not? Would lights on periods be better if higher relative wattage was used during the on period?

I realize this is not really what you're considering or aiming for, but if anything you've learned has bearing on these questions, it could help a lot of smart meter saddled dumbasses.
 
village green

village green

Member
johnnyrotten said:
D9, do you mean that I should have 3-4 inches of wick that isn't submerged in nutrients for a 3-4" air gap when using coco? Just want to clarify before I start cutting...
Click to expand...

Hey johnnyrotten
It can seem overwhelming to learn what all is going on with this contraption. Look at the bottom of one of Delta9's posts and you'll see a bunch of links. Click on the one for Zeke 99 for an index of topics but I would start first with the one by Imaginary Friend that gives links for detailed instructions to build a PPK.
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
TURBD said:
You guys need to nerd out in a lighting thread. Lol jk
I find it interesting. Don't understand it all. But after I get other shit dialed and have nothing else to worry about I will come back here and learn something maybe.
Bring on some pics of some sick plants all ready!!!
Click to expand...

it's too late for us! save yourself! at some point each new victim slips subconsciously into full perpetual auto-nerd mode!

it's a result of the god awful boredom that ppk growers must endure.

you stand with your hands poised over your trusty ph and ec meters, each in their respective fast draw holsters, anticipating the moment you get the call to spring into action and avert another close call. after all, this is re-circulating hydro.

at first, you bravely man your position knowing that something has to happen soon and super hydro man gets to save the day!

but then you get that sinking feeling that comes with realizing that you have no purpose in life. you just can't fill the emptiness that pervades you.

you can't get rid of it no matter how hard you try.

it's like that disease you picked up in Tijuana. the little scaly green lizard thing that attached itself to your crotch and is still there, chewing away. it's wearing a sombrero and a serapi, carrying a bottle of tequila with a picture of a face down vaquero on the label.

it will live there forever.

it's a horrible thing i tell you! run while you still can!
 
I

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
delta9nxs said:
i
it's a result of the god awful boredom that ppk growers must endure.

but then you get that sinking feeling that comes with realizing that you have no purpose in life. you just can't fill the emptiness that pervades you.

you can't get rid of it no matter how hard you try.
Click to expand...

The only truthful thing here is the god awful boredom statement. I have seen how much trimming you have coming, you do have a purpose albeit a boring one trimming and trimming and trimming and then to finish with a little more trimming.

You lie.
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
village green said:
I may have understood half of what Delta and McFly posted but I can see that this effect on plant growth has a lot of promise. Have either of you found any citations outlining more of a macro approach? Is there an experiment where someone has measured yield and not just growth rate with various light levels and intervals.

Leaving aside questions of wear and tear on ballasts or bulbs, what if any do these findings mean for cycling lights off and on during the "day"? Do we know enough to say how long they could be off and be on to see optimal growth? Would supplementing with constant low light bulbs be better or not? Would lights on periods be better if higher relative wattage was used during the on period?

I realize this is not really what you're considering or aiming for, but if anything you've learned has bearing on these questions, it could help a lot of smart meter saddled dumbasses.
Click to expand...


mcfly and i are working on two different concepts but there is a lot of overlapping data that applies to both.

he is looking at mechanically strobing whereas i'm trying mechanically increasing and decreasing modulated waves at slow speed.

and get enhanced dispersion of the light energy to more of the plant.

by design the hps bulb limits dispersion. we have found that by growing with vertically oriented bulbs we get to use the energy more effectively.

but there is still a problem with light being too intense along the arc tube and not intense enough above and below it.

so it describes a "pancake" of intense light in the middle of the field, a moderate band just above and below, and a weak band above and below those.

the plant is a mole counter. it counts the total moles of light that hit it in a 24 hour period.

i hope this device spreads those moles over the entire surface area in a more even, uniform manner.

while stimulating the photosynthetic process.
 
M

mcfly420

Active member
assuming your light measurements were performed with a flat sensor at 90deg?

Photosynthesis:physiological and Ecological Considerations
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...H2MzCX&sig=AHIEtbRmWGYvhKETiqgsmJyaKKusimLCiw
stumbled on this looking for leaf angle info and thought it summarized several other things well
The angle of the leaf relative to the sun will determine the amount of sunlight incident upon it in a manner identical to that shown for the flat light sensor in Figure 9.2. Under natural conditions, leaves exposed to full sunlight at the top of the canopy tend to have steep leaf angles so that less than the maximum amount of sunlight is incident on the leaf blade; this allows more sunlight to penetrate into the canopy. It is common to see that the angle of different leaves within a canopy decrease (become more horizontal) with increasing depth into a canopy.
Click to expand...
keep thinking of ways to alter the plant to distribute light evenly- to flowers? most leaves are at a 45?deg angle to the vertical light, if that could be cut in half.....might be worth trying at least

and although the ´hot spot´ leaves are at 45degs, the ones above the light are horizontal?. thought it was strange, but if these were at that same angle they might absorb less light from the bulb. kinda appears like the light (specularly?) reflected from the hot spot leaves is directed up towards them. anyways need to stop staring at them, its rude


edit- seems waxes/hairs also increase reflection and can be adjusted (by some plants).
 
M

mcfly420

Active member
from D9s cannabis sativa paper

All the measurements were carried out on five upper undamaged, fully expanded and healthy leaves of each plant with the help of a closed portable photosynthesis system (Model LI-6400; LI-COR, Lincoln, Nebraska, USA) equipped with light, temperature, humidity and CO2 controls. Different PPFD were provided with the help of an artificial light source (Model LI-6400-02; light emitting silicon diode; LI-COR), fixed on the top of the leaf chamber
Click to expand...
picture.php

25C - 77F 30C - 86F
they only measured at those four PPFD levels(plus darkness)

more info about the closed portable photosynthesis sysystem
http://www.licor.com/env/products/photosynthesis/
that steep drop from 500 to 0 is what Im interested in..this shows a slighly more gentle curve
http://www.licor.com/env/products/photosynthesis/measurements/light_response.html

and sorry for clogging up your thread, some pictures might shut me up :)
 
D

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
mcfly420 said:
from D9s cannabis sativa paper

View Image
25C - 77F 30C - 86F
they only measured at those four PPFD levels(plus darkness)

more info about the closed portable photosynthesis sysystem
http://www.licor.com/env/products/photosynthesis/
that steep drop from 500 to 0 is what Im interested in..this shows a slighly more gentle curve
http://www.licor.com/env/products/photosynthesis/measurements/light_response.html

and sorry for clogging up your thread, some pictures might shut me up :)
Click to expand...

blackmail, eh? since you've got my wife and dog i'll give you what you want! but i swear if you harm one hair on that dog's head you'll never get shit!

one thing to remember about dr el sohly's paper is that it is cannabis specific.

i have been operating this entire grow on these principles and, as you know, i have grown about five times the plant matter required to produce the bud i'm going to get.

first trip with co2 and i found out that the stretch with co2 is greater than the stretch without it. duh!

i haven't been in the room for 3 days so i've got to go tonight, i'll try to get a few pics then.
 
high life 45

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
Haven't been in the room for three days!! Those plants must have really done a number on ya when they went Jumanji on ya durin stretch.
 
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