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gdbud

Member
Last night when i went to bed the rh was 63% but when i woke up this morning it was 59%?? Rh% has always been higher overnight, what is happening?

One thing that could be happening is the temaiture in the room could be changing. As the tempature rises the Rh will drop and as the tempature drops the Rh will rise.
 

SuperHemp

Member
That could have something to do with it.. the reading is pretty stable from 59-61% now.

I harvested some more plants, hung the branches with the leaf to dry slower, but i think it backfired - the very tip of the colas is bone dry, most of the branch is "popcorn" dry and the lower portion of the branches is still soft. Will this cause problems with curing, and can the moisture redistribute itself into the dried out cola tips? I'm putting them in jars now, probably leaving the lid off overnight
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
well i compared a mirre that is now curing for 6 weeks with a mirre that was dried 14 days with leaves on then manicured and frozen

the one that is curing smells better and tastes better makes me more stoned

the one that was dried and frozen is harsher but i must say stronger effect wise it has that fast hitting high that fresher herb has

the jars are now at 59-60% and will remain closed till christmas and one till new year's eve
 

MozartMan

New member
As a long-time cigar enthusiast, i felt obligated to chime in...

I used to use my hygrometer when curing just to make sure the humidity didn't go through the roof without me knowing, but after seeing this thread it all made sense to cure at around the same conditions as tobacco.Tobacco and cannabis are both hygroscopic (which means it can actively absorb and release water)and both are essentially just plant matter. This means that you can rehydrate, but it is a delicate process. Cigars dry out extremely quick if in the wrong environment for too long. The way we rehydrate said cigar is to slowly restore it to the proper humidity range(65-70). The general rule is to raise the RH around 5-10 a week until you reach an acceptable range.
Disclaimer: I've never personally tried this since i ocd over Rh, but using this method should do the trick ( for a decent smoke-able product, not sure about curing potential).

Also i have a lot of experience in battling mold in my humidors. The
optimum temp and rh for cigars is 68:68 ( although it differs, Cuban cigars smoke nicer at around 65rh.The same principle goes along with different strains as Simon has said time and again in this thread). The optimal curing RH for buds will vary so YOU need to experiment with which rh works best for a particular strain. Once temperature starts to get over 70 you are asking for mold. I've had a temp74 and rh60 reading one time and half my humidor was coated in mold. As long is temp is 70 or below and rh 65-70 you are relatively clear from mold in my experience.

One more thing, i cant recommend humidity beads enough. The beads actively absorb and release moisture at whichever rh it is specific for. So you could essentially throw a container of beads in the jar and not have to worry about moisture buildup or the bud drying out too much (always watch the rh though).

Hope this helps someone!
 

150wclub

Member
just ordered my callibers 3s should be here in a week, going to harvest around in a week also. I'll be back to post the results , but after reading this entire thread i pretty confident in the results ill have perfectly cured buds.
 

MozartMan

New member
Great 1st post AmadeusGuy! :tiphat:

Thanks! I'll be bach to answer any other questions. [/corny joke] :pimp3:

Also, i saw alot of talk earlier in this thread about analog hygrometers. I highly recommend spending the extra money and going digital (there is a reason you can by analog hygrometer for around a dollar on the internet). There are some legitimate analog hygrometers out there, but they are usually expensive. I have countless analog hygrometers ( the gold circular ones that come free with humidors because they suck) that i dont use since they are wildly inaccurate. From the needle sticking to 20 point RH inaccuracies, i wouldnt ever trust my harvest to one.
 
S

Shike

Man am I happy I came across this thread. Have been having a hard time with my first cure for about a month. Hay smell and grass smell, but would smell wonderful if I took out a while in a baggie or something. I read this thread, took a hygrometer I had in a humidor and stuck it in my gallon glass and got a 73% reading!. Makes sense. Thanks guys.
:D
 

Ligyron

Member
Have some curing for almost two months now going only by feel, smell etc. as to the proper dryness and condition before jarring -- just like most people probably do. Finally got a Caliber III in and found out the RH inside had been around 74% (it's in multiple containers).

Taking everything out and inspecting before more drying in the much lower RH available now.

I guess I'm just lucky 'cause I found white, fuzzy mold on only the very tip of 1 bud that was in one of the smaller jars.

Wheew!, dodged a bullet 'cause that mold would surely have spread and I already have enough material for my second try at QWISO . Damn indica . . .

Anyway, thanks to this thread and all the great tips within I don't anticipate having this problem again.
 

SinisterLion

New member
Just wanted to say thanks for the thread, cut some Purple Urkel down, hung it, dried until the surface was ready, jarred it up, let it sweat, took a couple days but the humidity in the jar is steady at 64% and is curing.
 

THC123

Active member
Veteran
well tried some mirre nr 2 after 2 months + of cure

the buds smell less strong as in the beginning , i mean less strong as when i just dry for 14 days then freeze my weed.


when i open the jar there is a very nice smell , this particular mirre was curing at 57-56% RH

i said the smell is less strong , but it has more character , a rounder smell/aroma

i first smoked a joint , taste was good but i had to cough sometimes

But the taste when vaping was excellent really nice smooth full of aroma and the effect was a lot better then the one that wasn't cured i have to admit



i really got that narcotic high Karma says his mirre has in the strain description

I had people over and after only 2 bags of the cured mirre i was paralysed and fell asleep :D

so thx simon, cant wait to try it with my outdoor and greenhouse bud

i have another mirre the nr 1 , her ja will be opened new years eve and she has been curing at 58-59% RH by newyear almost 3 months
 
S

stickey fingers

THANKS

THANKS

Simon, amazeing thred thanks for giveing me a perfect cure for Christmas :greenstars:youre instructions and support are great !
and the results are amzeing and so are you !
:thanks: Simon
RIP DR JAY
 

hiker

Member
Simon, wish I'd seen this thread earlier. Great info, can't wait to get one and take some of the quesswork out of when to leave jars closed for good.
 

IMO

Member
As a long-time cigar enthusiast, i felt obligated to chime in...

I used to use my hygrometer when curing just to make sure the humidity didn't go through the roof without me knowing, but after seeing this thread it all made sense to cure at around the same conditions as tobacco.Tobacco and cannabis are both hygroscopic (which means it can actively absorb and release water)and both are essentially just plant matter. This means that you can rehydrate, but it is a delicate process. Cigars dry out extremely quick if in the wrong environment for too long. The way we rehydrate said cigar is to slowly restore it to the proper humidity range(65-70). The general rule is to raise the RH around 5-10 a week until you reach an acceptable range.
Disclaimer: I've never personally tried this since i ocd over Rh, but using this method should do the trick ( for a decent smoke-able product, not sure about curing potential).

Also i have a lot of experience in battling mold in my humidors. The
optimum temp and rh for cigars is 68:68 ( although it differs, Cuban cigars smoke nicer at around 65rh.The same principle goes along with different strains as Simon has said time and again in this thread). The optimal curing RH for buds will vary so YOU need to experiment with which rh works best for a particular strain. Once temperature starts to get over 70 you are asking for mold. I've had a temp74 and rh60 reading one time and half my humidor was coated in mold. As long is temp is 70 or below and rh 65-70 you are relatively clear from mold in my experience.

One more thing, i cant recommend humidity beads enough. The beads actively absorb and release moisture at whichever rh it is specific for. So you could essentially throw a container of beads in the jar and not have to worry about moisture buildup or the bud drying out too much (always watch the rh though).

Hope this helps someone!


i dont know if you are the first person to mention humidity beads but im glad someone did. ive been researching these for a minute and they seem like quite an effective way at maintaining a solid rh.
anyone who has experience with humidity beads please chime in, i'd love to know more about them and what benefits they may bring to curing.

regardless i plan on grabbing a pound or so of 65% humidity beads to do a side by side with a hygrometer cure. should give me a pretty good indication whether or not the beads will sufficiently cure.

anyhow im fairly excited about this, seems like it takes some of the guesswork out...
 

gdbud

Member
I would think that the beads would work once you got the jars down close to 65% Rh.
Plus you should devise a way to keep the beads from coming in contact with your buds.
 

igrowone

Well-known member
Veteran
just another salute to the thread, this is a godsend
so here's an interesting comparison, same clone grown to same ripeness under same lighting, same nutes
my 1st cure was mostly done by feel, got the caliber after a month or so and saw the bud was under 50% humidity
there was probably some curing, and bud was quite good, bit edgy for an indica
2nd cure done all the way with the caliber, 60% all the way for same time as first 'cure'
big difference in effect, no more edginess, very indica feel
 

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