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60 DE Nanolux 600 Coco DTW setup/grow

Roadblock

Active member
Roadblock, I think the crosslighting is super important. When I turn on just one row of my lights it is extremely dim looking compared to with all the lights going. That would be what I assume it would look like with a wall in there. If you read the Gavita and other manufacturers literature that they put out they say walls kill your yield. Even with reflective material, a lot is lost.

I found this useful-
https://gavita.com/retail/app/uploads/How-to-design-an-optimal-growroom.pdf

"The reason for that difference in losses is caused by your walls. In a small room the ratio wall surface
to floor surface is much higher than in a large room. A 1x1m room has a 4:1 wall to floor surface ratio
(4 meters of wall to 1 square meter of surface). A 5x5m room has a 1:1.25 wall to floor ratio (20 meters
of wall against a 25 square meters of surface) which makes all the difference. More walls mean more
losses. Larger rooms are more efficient than small rooms."

Thanks that makes so much sense, I have two 12x12 rooms 9x9 grow spaces and was thinking of knocking out the wall and run the 8 chm 630s in one bigger room instead of the two smaller rooms, not sure how much of advantage it would be because its not square.

The reason of the two rooms was so I could flower 24 hrs a day.
 

mikeross

Member
Thanks that makes so much sense, I have two 12x12 rooms 9x9 grow spaces and was thinking of knocking out the wall and run the 8 chm 630s in one bigger room instead of the two smaller rooms, not sure how much of advantage it would be because its not square.

The reason of the two rooms was so I could flower 24 hrs a day.


Having two flower rooms is great. I have 2 flower rooms triggered 4-5 weeks apart. It spreads out the workload, allows me to run half the amount in veg, harvest once a month and don't have to bring in as much help.
 

Roadblock

Active member
Having two flower rooms is great. I have 2 flower rooms triggered 4-5 weeks apart. It spreads out the workload, allows me to run half the amount in veg, harvest once a month and don't have to bring in as much help.

Thats exactly how I do it basically one room comes out every mth.
 

Veggia farmer

Well-known member
The overlap on the lighting makes a difference for sure, how much, not sure, to many variables. If there was a wall in every aisle the overall yield would go down for sure IMO.

Its a hell of a lot IMHO. I use only 400w hps atm, the 630cm is waiting for a new room to be build.

At the end of the rows, its all larf at the bottom/sides. In the middle of the row the same height and/or distance from the light its nugs. How much in weight and such I dunno, but I do know I would never put a wall up between. I have Actually been thinking about forgetting rows and make squares, just because of this reason. Leason learned? If someone CAN have side lightning I would say GO! So long as its not some other issues that would say otherwise.

Just my 2 cents. :plant grow:

Edit: have really put an effort in learning this, "stretching" the light distance as much as I can...
 

Roadblock

Active member
I see in this thread hormex mentioned a lot, I hate being in Aus when Im trying to get stuff I cant find it anywhere so tried to get something with the same ingredients.

The closest I could find was a product called Auxinone it appears pretty close, do you guys think it do a simialr job as hormex.

https://nuturf.com.au/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2015/09/Auxinone-A3-Format.pdf

Auxinone is a biostimulant containing a blend of Auxins that promote growth in plants. Auxinone
incorporates 2 of the most common Auxins found in plants - Indole Acetic Acid (IAA) to encourage
cell development and Naphthalene Acetic Acid (NAA) for improved root growth. Auxinone also
incorporates Thiamine (commonly known as Vitamin B1) to further enhance root development.
When used in conjunction with a useful fertiliser program, Auxinone will;
• Stimulate root development, particularly when establishing new turf areas
• Encourage new growth in turf following winter dormancy
• Improve turf development in weaker areas
• Enhance root development initiation in plant propagation situations

• Economical for use both as a regular monthly maintenance bio-stimulant
option or for broadacre turf establishment
• Strengthens your fertility program, maximises root development and
uptake of applied nutrients
• Excellent tank mix flexibility. Can be used in conjunction with a wide
variety of plant nutrition, wetting agent and plant protection products
• Excellent liquid option as a rooting compound for cuttings in plant
propagation. Proven to significantly enhance root initiation and plant
establishment
• Unlike many other Biostimulants, Auxinone is registered with the APVMA,
ensuring consistency in manufactured product and peace of mind that the
product will do the job it is claimed to do
• Developed and manufactured in Australia.
 

Biologist

Active member
>Josh_Neulinger's latest instagram post from 11/15 is an LED room pushing 1700PPFD and 1500ppm CO2 with supporting environment (85F and 70% RH) also monitoring pore water EC and utilizing crop steering techniques.

Ibechillin thanks for introducing me to this dude's work. Fascinating stuff. Do you know what temps and RH he does in late flower? Surely not jamming at 85/70 the whole way?
 

Biologist

Active member
I tried a DJM grow with high RH and got bud rot in some of the sensitive strains around week 6 and bailed on it. In my environment I can't do high RH in late flower. Maybe my technique and room just aren't up to snuff. I had tons of fans blasting etc. I wish I had one of those sterile grows where you wear the shoe booties, I'd love to see what happens. My plants grow awesome at high temp and RH during early flower but I turn it down in late flower (pretty much what Eric does works best for me). I'm also concerned that some people seem to report drastically ( I think one dude said half!) lower THC numbers if they do high RH in late flower. Has Josh ever reported any THC and terp values for his flower?
 

mikeross

Member
I tried a DJM grow with high RH and got bud rot in some of the sensitive strains around week 6 and bailed on it. In my environment I can't do high RH in late flower. Maybe my technique and room just aren't up to snuff. I had tons of fans blasting etc. I wish I had one of those sterile grows where you wear the shoe booties, I'd love to see what happens. My plants grow awesome at high temp and RH during early flower but I turn it down in late flower (pretty much what Eric does works best for me). I'm also concerned that some people seem to report drastically ( I think one dude said half!) lower THC numbers if they do high RH in late flower. Has Josh ever reported any THC and terp values for his flower?


DJM slowly drops the humidity last 3 weeks on a 9 week strain. If I recall he said on some runs with certain strains he drops the humidity to even lower figures than whats quoted below. His high humidity numbers are more for veg through mid flower. You also got to keep in mind he's also maxing out all aspects of his environment. You can't just push one aspect of the environment, it will cause issues, you need to be pushing everything... temp, co2, humidity, feed, air movement etc. etc. imo.


twisted - I posted my temp /rh schedule a few pages back..these are the parameters I prefer...some say I run my rooms too hot, but what people don't realize is high heat during a colas formation is one of the biggest factors in how big the flowers get...a flower formed in a 85 degree room will always be larger than one in the mid to high 70s...always...once I get the flower size and formation I want , only then do I drop temps to facilitate the ripening phase

ALL veg - 85 f / 75% rh (day) ; 80f/ 70% (night) ; 800 ppms co2

week 1 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 2 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 3 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 4 - 82f/ 72% rh (day) ; 78f/ 68% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 5 - 80f/ 70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms c02

week 6 - 80f /70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 7 - 78f/68% rh (day) ; 72 f/ 62% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 8 - 75f/ 65%rh (day) ; 70f/ 60% (night) ; 0 ppms co2

week 9 - 70f /60% rh (day) ; 60f/ 50% (night) ; 0 ppm c02


and thanks for the kind words
 
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Biologist

Active member
Yes I was maxing it all and following that chart and still got my result. I didn't max EC but I don't think he does either, he always talks about never going over 1000 ppm. I think my environment and technique may just not be as clean as his. He also used outside air in Colorado for his unique flow through ventilation system in a lot of that thread I believe. Although I think he runs sealed now in Maine and still does high temp and rh.
 

Biologist

Active member
All I know is his Instagram, but he hasn't posted in a while. He was doing a lot of breeding it looked like and starting a new grow, so I'm hoping he is just busy.
 
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bs0

Active member
Josh_Neulinger on instagram is the grower responsible for the result I shared above.

Current research is supporting possibility to increase past 84 grams/3 oz per sq ft under LED. Outdoor during summer plants tolerate tons of IR and ~2000PPFD in full sun at noon, with 60 DLI common over a day with only ~400ppm atmoshperic CO2 available.

Bruce Bugbee from Apogee's presentation on grow lighting explains cannabis yields continue to increase up to 60 DLI (1400ppfd over 12 hours). Josh_Neulinger mentioned in an instagram comment Bruce Bugbee only tested and recorded up to 60 DLI with 700ppm CO2 concentration and not to think of it as a maximum threshold. Im also unaware of feed solution/strength used, feed/watering frequency or how the environment was maintained other than CO2 during the tests which are crucial factors for yield as well.

Josh_Neulinger's latest instagram post from 11/15 is an LED room pushing 1700PPFD and 1500ppm CO2 with supporting environment (85F and 70% RH) also monitoring pore water EC and utilizing crop steering techniques. He has also mentioned maintaining the same temperature and humidity during lights off which keeps the leaves in praying up position. Pretty sure I read he runs 9 plants per light (25 sq ft) 6.5" rockwool blocks on slabs, does not top or train plants.

Running a room @ 85F 70%RH is pretty awesome but sure goes sideways fast when things aren't perfect. Gotta really mind the roots.
 

bs0

Active member
Yes I was maxing it all and following that chart and still got my result. I didn't max EC but I don't think he does either, he always talks about never going over 1000 ppm. I think my environment and technique may just not be as clean as his. He also used outside air in Colorado for his unique flow through ventilation system in a lot of that thread I believe. Although I think he runs sealed now in Maine and still does high temp and rh.

If you got mold you didn't have enough air movement. That's what gets you at high temp/RH. One leaf gets stuck on a bud you can rot if
air isn't moving things around.
 

cody2white

ghost in training
Veteran
Awesome journal! I read all 62 pages and probably going to re read it. Couple questions, how many people do you have working? And how and where do you dry, trim, and cure?
 

Biologist

Active member
If you got mold you didn't have enough air movement. That's what gets you at high temp/RH. One leaf gets stuck on a bud you can rot if
air isn't moving things around.

You may be right, I don't know. They started to get budrot right in front of oscillating Hurricane 16" wall fans on high. I don't know how to move more air than that lol.
 

Veggia farmer

Well-known member
Dont forget silica if you have mold issue. Thats my number one go to if i have probems with mold or anything like that because the plant isnt tough enough. Mold, weak stem etc.

I have a room that I have some issues with, it need some work, I very rarerly have RH under 70% during light on. No matter what temp it is. So yes, it peaks a lot during light off. Went in during last grow in the night and it was over 90 % if I remember right. I have lost something due to mold, but not a lot, that is also what happens when I want indicas so ripe I want them in this enviroment. Critical Mass have gone over 14 weeks in there. Great hash, lol. No AC, so In sommer time, I clearly see when temp reach around 29C or 85 F. It clearly is like rocking steady, then bam! I like it. hehe

And I also has to say yeah, have air movement, but not enough. So not all is, mold = to little air movement. To easy mates:p Gotta make em tough. Again, silica. I also grow in organic beds,Im only using Silica sometimes as saltnutes, and that is also the only saltnutes I use during flower ( I use a little atm in aerocloners too).

Literalty shit loads of compost, and pluss alot of everything, buildt over some years, recycle, almost no till. When you get this stems that looks like outdoors stems if you break them, you know you are doing something right;) Aaaand my childish way of getting to the point. When you make them really tough, they do manage these temps and humidity, very good. Even if it is rock hard indica flowers or big critical colas. Just watch out like earlier said, because if the shit hits the fan in hot climates, the room stinks pretty quick.

Rock on Eric!:)
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
Awesome journal! I read all 62 pages and probably going to re read it. Couple questions, how many people do you have working? And how and where do you dry, trim, and cure?
Thanks. I like to dry friction trim. Let hang 7 days. Temp 65-69 humidity around 50-55%. Trim bag works great once you get the hang of it.
Here’s the LEDS going strong!
picture.php

picture.php
 

carson

Active member
Looking good. Any comments on the led vs. hps so far? Do you think you'll convert the rest of this over soon?
 
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