2 years 3 nute programs same problem week 4

[Holdin']

You said you and your buddy have been growing this strain for some time, is your buddy growing this strain in a separate location without any problems?

The thing that complicates this is you've tried a couple different nute programs.... same exact problem...

I personally would be hesitant of spray anything on 5 week old flowers myself, and I truly understand your frustration, but reread your last post and you may realize people may not want to help now. Just my suggestion....

Let me ask you this. Have you had successful, problem free gardens in the past with the same setup/strain/nutes etc?

 

[pip313]

I dont need one word answers so if he gets offended im sorry but I need to know why otherwise the suggestion does nothin besides fix my problem today. Any good help will include the why so the person with the problem knows how to identify it. It also helps prove the person giving the suggestion knows what they are talking about. There is a good chance jack does but to recomend to spray buds this far into flower is scary. Not to sound like a broken record but iron symptoms dont match how this plant yellowed.

I dont know if hes wrong he could be right but if hes not and I ruin my buds then what? If its iron what caused it to green up when i added the fungi bacteria nitrogen and magnesium?

My buddies yellow too which is why I think its a heavy feeder of something and not off gassing and its not water. I know many growers locally and my rhino s the only one with early yellowing. My other strains start yellowing at the end of week 5 but they yellow slower and are 8 week strains not 10. Successful grow in past? Well I got 1.5 lb off 1 plant but no it was yellow early too. Other strains are fine its just this white rhino. I still have green buds at the end, they never yellow for some reason.

 

[resinryder]

When you go into bloom do you go straight into bloom nutes or do you keep them on veg foods for the first couple of weeks? Nitrogen dif start at the bottom of the plant and work their way up the plant.
What is the ec of your water supply before adding nutes?
And, you ec is high. 1.8 to 2.0 is too much imo. You can get away with high ec in veg but not in bloom, at least in my experience over the past 10 years.

 

[pip313]

I use the same nutes for veg and flower. Veg never looked anything but happy unless i had root rot or something.

Tap ec .25

I have been considering doing what heath robinson does and run 10% veg nutes through flower as I am trying to copy his tree grows. Heath run a ec of 1.2 dhf recommends 1.8 what do you use? I really want to try 1.2 but im scared its too low. I get defeciencys now so what would happen then?

I run rdwc but I can very easily run a plant or two (much smaller than this one though) with thier own rez's at different ec's. Can i just switch them now or should work the ec down slow?

 

[pip313]

Lucas claimed 8/16 veg and flower and it seemed many pople has success with it so I stayed with it hoping to k.i.s.s and not over complicate things.

 

[resinryder]

It's a funny thing. You can do nearly anything you want in veg but as soon as you go into bloom the plant reacts differently due to bud formation. The plants need the nitrogen for the first couple of weeks in bloom to provide the nitrogen needed to see the plants through. If they don't have enough stored up they start pulling available nitrogen from the plant which is the cause for the leaves yellowing early. It starts at the bottom and works it's way up the plant.
Many people use the KISS method with great success. BUT many have the exact same problems you are having. I have no idea why it woks for some and not for others. Just too inconsistent. Personally, I wouldn't use the KISS method if someone paid my electric bill, nute bill, and me for my time. For the exact same reason you are having problems. Just my opinion on the matter.
Not knocking you personally, but if you have been having the exact same problem for 2 years and with 3 different nute programs,why won't you try a different way of using nutes? It's like smashing your hand with a hammer over and over and wondering why it hurts every time. Or maybe you're just dedicated to the KISS ideology. If it's not working, that's defiantly not Keeping It Simple Stoner.

 

[MileHighGuy]

My main motivation for switching to soil.

Good luck!

 

[pip313]

Lol I like how you word stuff. It may be a broke method but it works, i dont have much room to try different things and im pretty much disabled from crohns disease so i need the meds/money.

I am listening and am going to try your suggestions.

 

[praisehim.]

^^ resin ryder . nailed it. not enough food available, so they eat themselves.

 

[sylk855]

How ofthen change the tank?
If the ph is ok it can be salt build up . Clear youre system.

 

[pip313]

Lol I like how you word stuff. It may be a broke method but it works, i dont have much room to try different things and im pretty much disabled from crohns disease so i need the meds/money.

The last thing i needed was to make it worse and honestly getting ph and ppm meters in the last few harvests was my way of trying but now I know its not ph or ppm being way off.

I am listening and am going to try your suggestions.

 

[pip313]

Nute change every 2 weeks.

So im over feeding in flower and feeding the wrong nute in veg. Cool now I know what im doing wrong and how to fix it.

 

[pip313]

Resinryder what are your veg and flower target ec's?

 

[resinryder]

sylk855 brought up a valid point. Salt build up is a problem in hydro systems. Salt build up will cause lockouts. Do you flush your plants at least once a month?
In veg I can run ec's beginning at 1.0 and depending on how fast or how slow I want the vegetative growth to come on I will end up ranging it between 1.4 to 1.6.
But in bloom I very rarely exceed 1.4 to 1.5.. Seems like the plants like to have what they want without being over dosed with it causing them to not preform well. I do use ro water so I don't have other stuff that is present in municipal water supplies. But your ec is low as you indicated so a higher ec shouldn't be needed either.
Too high an EC and you'll crisp/burn up your plants.

 

[ciccio11]

Ciao a tutti,
sto pensando ad una cosa:
il problema potrebbe derivare dalla troppa vigoria della pianta?
una vigoria eccessiva creerebbe all'interno della chioma fogliare un elevata umidità. Umidità che crea un microclima ideale a molti funghi, che di per se, magari, non saranno dannosi, ma indebolirebbero sicuramente la pianta contribuendo così a questo risultato.

Io sono un principiante è questa potrebbe essere anche una stronzata... però è quello che mi è passato per la mente!!


Scusate l'intrusione e buon "trono" a tutti

 

[pip313]

I run rwdc all water is drained and replaced every other sunday.

 

[pip313]

Ciao a tutti,
sto pensando ad una cosa:
il problema potrebbe derivare dalla troppa vigoria della pianta?
una vigoria eccessiva creerebbe all'interno della chioma fogliare un elevata umidità. Umidità che crea un microclima ideale a molti funghi, che di per se, magari, non saranno dannosi, ma indebolirebbero sicuramente la pianta contribuendo così a questo risultato.

Io sono un principiante è questa potrebbe essere anche una stronzata... però è quello che mi è passato per la mente!!


Scusate l'intrusione e buon "trono" a tutti

Yea i have good airflow and its not fungus but thankyou.

 

[GF-Z]

It's a funny thing. You can do nearly anything you want in veg but as soon as you go into bloom the plant reacts differently due to bud formation. The plants need the nitrogen for the first couple of weeks in bloom to provide the nitrogen needed to see the plants through. If they don't have enough stored up they start pulling available nitrogen from the plant which is the cause for the leaves yellowing early. It starts at the bottom and works it's way up the plant.
Many people use the KISS method with great success. BUT many have the exact same problems you are having. I have no idea why it woks for some and not for others. Just too inconsistent. Personally, I wouldn't use the KISS method if someone paid my electric bill, nute bill, and me for my time. For the exact same reason you are having problems. Just my opinion on the matter.
Not knocking you personally, but if you have been having the exact same problem for 2 years and with 3 different nute programs,why won't you try a different way of using nutes? It's like smashing your hand with a hammer over and over and wondering why it hurts every time. Or maybe you're just dedicated to the KISS ideology. If it's not working, that's defiantly not Keeping It Simple Stoner.

You just answered yourself. Whats could be the problem? Water source( becouse if you would lived in some 'town' areas there is lots of farms, you would understand that we actually drinking nitrogen, from calcium nitrate etc.. Then some other areas has no farms around so no fertillizers in water and if you got weak water without si2 enough N youll get imbalances.. Second thing oxygen/humidity/co2 balance. I experience same problems. Now will be trying veg nutes+calmag+ very little if pk just to affect phosphorous and iron ratio in preflower.(p.s. Experiment with rdwc and lucas ended with slime and 1oz from 4 fried plants. Ec was 1.2 and they just fried like crispy chips from Mr.Chicken )).. And hillarious moment I used new 600w verticaly mounted bulb... So now trying different nutes but going near lucas by playing with cal mag+n and pk booster used as P+. Looks like it should work theoreticaly.

P.s. Answer to same folks talking about iron apply. No offence but someone got me angry. Just it.

TO ALL IDIOTS WHO APPLIES IRON AS FOLIAR. DO IT ONLY IN CRITICAL MOMENTS, ONLY THEN YOU ARE 100% THATS NOT LOCKOUT , THATS NOT IMBALANCE OF ANTAGONISTIC ELEMENT ( Ca <-> Mg , P <-> Fe) and etc. Its not DUE TO HIGH PH( fe locks out in above 5.6 in most times untill you have very HQ chelated what works with any ph.You got point, dont play with MONOS until you can at least calculate your ppms and nearly correct ratios. Youll fry your plants. Because if you force iron to the plant via foliar, iron which is left in bucket will not be absorbed. As all nutes goes with proper ratios. Iron will fuck up P. Phosphorous will completely fuck up rest of your sensimilation chemistry(bubblebuckets deadliest mistake to do). One time I just give up solving this strange deffs and started believing person who is just sociopatic.. Little bit retarted. Okey no offence, just he thinks what all he say is 100% TRUE WITHOUT ANY SINGLE WORD OF PROOFING IT and thinks what no one can remember bla bla bla boring...very... But he says completely bullshit, even he has 4 times more experience... And it was absolutely wrong side. Coldest ever. Sad, that that kind of people with """""""selfish overrated sense""""""" can speak.. And even spread fakeness of canna world confusing people about all bullshit .
So I just did research practical way with all dat shit destroyng your nerve system, solved problem for that time. Now the same... first bacteria from superthrive, next root rot, second recovery. And in the end , bam 15/9 -> to 12/12 every day 1h and you got it.. Lovely deffiency...

Deffs:
changing colours from green to light green from top -> magnessium. Magnessium lockouts 5.7< or due tu imbalances. Ph 5.9 hydro, +light foliar spray with properly diluted espom salts. Take photo of one big "living leaf" every 2hours and look what happens for 24h
If chlorophyl comes back you will see big recovering. If its not, this means that problem is in nitrogen fixation, some bad bacteria eats it and converts to some ammonium types (no opinion, just thoughts)
LET PH FLUCTATE SLOWLY

 

[TheArchitect]

1.8 ec is nuts.

You can run that ec in flood and drain, but 1.2 ec is pretty ideal for rdwc. Lots of experience from lots of people, myself included....

 

[pip313]

Im correcting the ec now, I dumped half the system and filled with fresh and im waitin for it to stabilize between buckets. Im going to target 1.2 ec.