150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

[hoosierdaddy]

I don't think that a 29uF is proper for a 70watt HPS. It requires a 7mfd (equates to uF)

This link has what you want for about $8usd
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/cap_ignitor.html

 

[Shady Smoka]

When will we be able to uploads pics?

 

[InPotiTrust]

Well hoosierdaddy thats wats on mine that i got from businesslights

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Go to the site I listed and see what a 70watt HPS takes. A 150watt takes a 14uF.
A 29uF would be for like a 300 watt light.
Not sure but maybe a larger cap will work for smaller units. (shrug)

 

[Pipedream]

Lets set the record straight once and for all.....

Capacitors in HPS lighting do NOT affect or have anything to do with the operation of the lamp/fixture. They are only there to improve the achieved or rated Power Factor. Pull it out and the lamp will work fine. If you are growing in your home, or a small business environment, where you pay your electric bill based in Kilowatt Hours, the Power Factor has no meaning to you finacially. It doesn't matter if your P-Factor is 0.1 or 0.9, it costs the same to operate and produces the same amount of light. Power Factors only come into play in a commerical environment in which your electrical bill has whats sometimes referred to as a KVA Apparent Load calculation built into it. In this situation, a commericial bill can be kept in check by working towards higher PF's.

The only other advantage to a fixture with a Power-Factor correcting capacitor is again relative to a commericial environment. Such fixtures reduce the line or ballast input current. This reduction allows engineers to design individual circuits with more lighting points connected before reaching maximum load. In theory, could this come into play in a home-grow? Maybe if you had a huge set-up and were running multiple 1000 watt lamps on a single circuit, but then you wouldn't be posting in the 150HPS club, would you?

I hope this clears things up.

I often say that this is just my 2 cents and humble opinion, however in this case, these are the facts.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Heat is a factor, and with no power factor correction there is more heat generated, no?

 

[Pipedream]

On a 150 you'd have a tough time measuring the difference, if there was any. If heat is a concern, the first rule is to keep your ballast outside of the growing space. This is ture for any type of HID lighting system.

 

[DiscoDuck]

Lets set the record straight once and for all.....

Capacitors in HPS lighting do NOT affect or have anything to do with the operation of the lamp/fixture. They are only there to improve the achieved or rated Power Factor. Pull it out and the lamp will work fine. If you are growing in your home, or a small business environment, where you pay your electric bill based in Kilowatt Hours, the Power Factor has no meaning to you finacially. It doesn't matter if your P-Factor is 0.1 or 0.9, it costs the same to operate and produces the same amount of light. Power Factors only come into play in a commerical environment in which your electrical bill has whats sometimes referred to as a KVA Apparent Load calculation built into it. In this situation, a commericial bill can be kept in check by working towards higher PF's.

The only other advantage to a fixture with a Power-Factor correcting capacitor is again relative to a commericial environment. Such fixtures reduce the line or ballast input current. This reduction allows engineers to design individual circuits with more lighting points connected before reaching maximum load. In theory, could this come into play in a home-grow? Maybe if you had a huge set-up and were running multiple 1000 watt lamps on a single circuit, but then you wouldn't be posting in the 150HPS club, would you?

I hope this clears things up.

I often say that this is just my 2 cents and humble opinion, however in this case, these are the facts.

I know you've said all this before but thanks for making things understandable in layman's terms. I've always assumed I'd gain (something?) by adding a cap to my little Sentry but was ambivalent to "fix" something that ain't broke. I can now relax on this subject and leave well enough alone. Much appreciated, Pipedream.

 

[abirdintheair]

how much longer should they go?

how much longer should they go?

okay, imaking hashberry f2s on a branch and some stankhash (stankonia x hashberry) beans. with the HB some of the pods have cracked slightly and i can see the brown seeds inside. should i let it go an extra week to make sure the seeds are mature or is it good to go now? havent seen this happen on the stankonia making the other beans yet though. theyre at about the 9-10 week range.

 

[DiscoDuck]

your brown seeds are probably close if not done, especially if you see darker "marks" on the shell.

 

[bluebuds]

hey inpotitrust i had been looking at that same cabinet at homedepot for the same purpose!!! sweet bro! im thinking a strip of weather seal on one door side and pull them together at the same time will get rid of that light leek. great looking filter and intake dude. any pics of your plants? -bluebuds

 

[InPotiTrust]

Thanks bluebuds i was gona put the weather striping on the doors but just covered it up instead so no light comes out or goes in pus when it's off it blends right in with the room.Heres a pic from last week...all are flowering for over a week now

 

[DiscoDuck]

InPotiTrust, very nice cab and plants. The interior walls look like they'll be easy to clean if they ever get cruddy like mine. Mine could use a little fresh paint every other grow, yours will only need a damp cloth. Good thinkin.

 

[Zathir]

Hi guys, I'd like to show you shots from my harvst day.
Durban x hh 66 day 12/12

swiss bliss 62 day 12/12

 

[InPotiTrust]

Sweet harvest Zathir.Wats the hh in the cross mean?



Thanks DiscoDuck

 

[Zathir]

hey InPotiTrust, hh mean hollands hope Its a cross made for one of Polish grower planned to grow it outdoor, but as you can see its grows lovely indoor too


Guys I forgot add thats my first indoor grow

 

[Shady Smoka]

When I try to upload pics, I am now gettin this :
The file you uploaded was not an acceptable format.: 1.bmp

How do I change the format or whatever I need to do.
I've been waitin to post pics for like a week!

Thanks in advance
Shady Smoka

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Open up the photo in just about any graphic or picture viewing program, such as MS Paint, MS Photo Editor, etc...then simply click SAVE AS and choose (or type in) .jpg
It will convert if for you.
Note that many .bmp files will have the color distorted when converting to a .jpg or .gif
Here, only .jpg files are accepted (i think).

 

[Shady Smoka]

^^^^thanx man...pics up soon

Here ya go....The strain is NYCDiesel
These first two are the day I brought it home. It wasnt in the best shape.






Heres a week later in my bubble bucket DWC w/ GH nutes and 104w of CFL's






And a week after that...







I'll post this weeks pics soon.

 

[abirdintheair]

those purple calyxes give a nice touch to the bud appearance zathir. were those colored calyxes at the bottoms of most of the buds or only that one that has it in the picture?