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10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer

rrog

Active member
Veteran
A sump pump to run off the mower battery. A switch to turn on and off. Would need a converter to 120V to operate the pump, unless you used ordered a heavy output DC pump.

I like the idea of towing a larger tank, and the submersible sump pump / hose / nozzle would apply tea at a much higher rate. I'm sure there are high GPM DC sump pumps available
 
S

SeaMaiden

My tank came with a toggle switch to turn the pump off and on, that's how I deal with the agitator. The agitator is basically a set of valves on a Y fitting and some flexible tubing, creates a loop by which the agitator keeps things mixed. I believe that it's a diaphragm pump that moves everything, but don't hold me to that, I'd have to double-check the paperwork that came with the unit.

I started off with a sump pump and a hose, I just find this rig easier overall to deal with, it's damn near plug & play, with the exception of the agitator unit. In fact, when it arrived, that's just what I did--set it up in The Little Tractor That Could, strapped her in and off we went.

Oh! One thing---IF you have the tank filled to capacity (mine's the 26gal model) and you're not very heavy and are working on hills, BE CAREFUL. It can take off with you down the hill. So can a cartful of compost, so only fill the cart half full. I will make a concentrate and then add water when I'm down in the areas to be treated or fed, instead of trying to make it down the hill with that full load. WHOOPS!
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A sump pump to run off the mower battery. A switch to turn on and off. Would need a converter to 120V to operate the pump, unless you used ordered a heavy output DC pump.

I like the idea of towing a larger tank, and the submersible sump pump / hose / nozzle would apply tea at a much higher rate. I'm sure there are high GPM DC sump pumps available

If you are mechanically inclined it is easy to incorporate a pressure switch which will shut off the pump when you let go of the hose nozzle. I thought about building a brewer sprayer combo running off one air pump but I've got enough on my plate.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
This is really interesting. I love the idea of cruising around spraying lawn and plants both. For 2-4 acres, I have to look at some volume automation like this.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
We ran an overhead irrigation system for our greenhouse (24 x 64) and our outdoor gardens. It was quite simple to use poles salvaged in the bush to build a framework to hold black poly hose/pipe above the beds and use shrubhead sprinklers pointing down. We ran out 1200 gallons of ACT at a shot, followed immediately by clear water.
 

gOurd^jr.

Active member
Alright since we got on the subject of application I could use some advice. I'm helping a friend with a tiny farm build a 30gal brewer, since he had just about everything including a 30gal cone tank laying around. 1.5" pipe sound good? I think you use 1.5" on the 50gal right MM? Just waiting for an air pump now. Probably be upgrading to 50 gal or perhaps even 300 gal later on, since he's got such a tank laying around too...

Anyway here's the setup for irrigation: a pump (sump?) pulls water out of a pond, through a sediment filter and then via underground PVC out to a number of small plots with sprinklers a couple feet above ground. There is actually already a T (plugged) in the line AFTER the pump and filter. Could I just tap into the T and plug the brewer right in after its ready to go? If I open the drain into that line while the pump is running do you think it would back up into the brewer? That's what I suppose would happen. Maybe I could drain the brewer into the line first, then turn on the pump? Don't think I'd be able to get even 30 gal into the line all at once though. Not really sure about that. Gotta filter the Tea somehow too...

Perhaps it work maybe to get a smaller pump to push the tea through 400 micron filter and into the line while the larger pump is running pond water through? With only 30 gal brewer for now diluting a bit is pretty much neccessary to get decent coverage anyway. Have to send each batch to one plot at a time and just brew often to hit all the plots every couple weeks.
Any ideas or advice greatly appreciated.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I use 1.25" PVC.

Sorry, I can't help on the irrigation because I can't see it. Check my page for filtering.
 

gOurd^jr.

Active member
After some re-reading on your website I see that your pipe is labeled 1.25"(thinwall) but in fact measures 1.5" I.D. gotta love those contractor measurements...

Maybe I'll get some pics of that pump and irrigation so you can see what I mean.

But now I'm very excited to report on the progress of my 15gal brewer. It ROCKS! definitely much improved with the 1.25" (thinwall) pipe. Thanks MM! I also made a super ghetto diffuser that may or may not be helping really. All I did was cut a piece of nylon stocking to fit across the fitting at the air intake. I cut it so it fits carefully, is taught across the pipe, and no extra sticks out of the fitting. I kinda figured it would be better than nothing, and it was free since I have excess nylon scraps laying around. Re-reading again at microbeorganics.com I notice the machined diffusers MicrobeMan is using are slotted at 254 microns which should be similar range to some of the nylon mesh. I know these vary a lot and all but hey it was free. maybe double layering would provide finer bubble diffusion...can't jam too much in between that fitting though...likely room for improvement.

Also I think next time I'll try moving the intake an inch or two further from the riser pipe as per MM suggestion to find optimal distance. It works great as is though and I wanted to get a brew goin, not drain it, dissassemble etc...next time.

Here's a few pics.

The only fitting I glued, since the weight of 15gal is pushing down on this joint and I noticed last time it was slipping apart slightly, wouldn't want it coming loose midbrew when I'm not around! All the rest are just pushed together tightly. The bushing there above the T fits really tightly into that ABS drain so I didn't glue there but I may eventually. at each T there is a tiny drip that drops maybe 1x a minute, or less. I just put a couple cups under to catch the drips...

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Vortex looks about the same as last set-up, just smoother/steadier flow, much less "hiccup".

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I cut a three inch hole in the top of the lid to let air exchange , but contain splashes. It also makes even quieter operation! nice soothing bubbling sound, can't detect this pump AT ALL over the gurgling splashing sounds. You can see the super simple stand I just put the board with a hole on a couple cinder blocks. Isn't quite tall enough to set a 5er up under for easy draining into, but it leaves room to add water into the blumat res. visible above/behind. In the lung room. plus its pretty easy to take down and move.

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Finally, I started up a brew! Re-read the recipes on MicrobeMan's site and calculated conservatively for 60L (~16gal) of tea.
Vermicompost(homemade) ~2%=5 cups (I only put in 4 cause I'm runnin low)
Molasses ( I used dry) ~.5% = 1.3 cups ( I used 1 even)
Kelp ~.1% (recipe says .25% MAX)= 1/4 cup (I low balled this too, more like 1/8th cup.) Seems MM has been leaving thsi out entirely with good success so...
I have been throwing in a spoonfull of Azomite/Glacial Rock Dust/ Greensand but have not put any in this brew so far.

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gOurd^jr.

Active member
I figured there was ~50$ US in this rig (not including air pump). Went ahead and did a price breakdown for ya guys and gals. As follows: One stop shop at Home Depot (air pump purchased seperately)
20Gal "Roughneck" trashcan: 14$
1" PVC ball valve: 4$ ( I used a bushing to keep this valve when I upgraded to 1.25" PVC)
2" ABS shower drain: 4$
10 ft. roll of 7/8 OD 5/8 ID braided Vinyl tubing : 17$ (most expensive item)
10ft 1.25" PVC pipe : 5$ (they only have thickwall at my HD, I actually got some thinwall at another local Hardware store)
1.25" PVC T-fitting x2 : 2.5$
1.25" PVC 90* elbow : 1$
1.25" PVC 45* elbow : 1$
2" x 1.25" PVC bushing : 1.25$ (goes into ABS drain and is glued into T fitting)
1.25"x1" PVC bushing : 1$ (as mentioned between T and ball valve, uneccesary if you just get a 1.25" ball valve)
1.25" x3/4"(FPT) PVC bushing : 1$ (T fitting to air hose)
5/8" ID barb fitting to 3/4" (MPT) PVC : 0$ (included with air pump)
PVC Glue : 0$ ( already had this, and used only a tiny bit on the one fitting. would cost another ~5$ or so)

Total Material cost (before tax) ~51.75$ so right around 55$ after tax. Plus my sweet pump was ~250$ bringing me up to a total ~305$. An Eco Plus 3 would actually move a little more air than this fancy pump and would only cost 40-50$ depending where ya get it.
That means you could build this unit for ~100$ materials. I'm really happy with this silent pump so far though and hopefully it will last longer in my very dry climate, which wrecks diaphragm pumps as I understand. After 1.5yrs brewing often my Old Eco-plus diaphragm pump sounded horrible, you could literally feel it vibrating from across the house too. I'm gonna pull it open when I get a chance to see how the internals look. might just need a new diaphragm/tune-up.

Tools used: Hack saw (for cutting pipe), Dremel tool (for cutting holes), Sandpaper (for smoothing cut PVC and also finishing holes) Thats IT.

Props to the OP for getting this rad thread going and MAD PROPS to MicrobeMan for his vast professional knowledge sharing and advising to all us amateurs.

Happy brewing Everyone!!
 

Clayton_Bigsby

Active member
Very nice Gourd!!

I have an off topic question that i need some help on from the experts though. Can i bubble tea for 72hours and still use it, or would it start to create bad bacteria or something? It may sound like a stupid question but im new to the whole science behind the tea and trying to learn as much as possible.
 

catalyte

Active member
Veteran
great info in here.


i'm getting back to organics after epic failures with aeroponics in my space... back to what works!!!
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
This icmag organic soil forum far and away has the most advanced discussions online. At least specific to weed. It's a gem on the internet.

Another epic resource is MicrobeOrganics.com
 
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jrmedic

Member
Rainy day here, and just finished reading this thread from beginning to end. Thank you to all who contributed, and happy growing!

... off to the hardware store ...
 

jrmedic

Member
Just setup a simple 5 gallon brewer, and started a batch with EWC, molasses and hydrolysate.

Wondering if the EcoPlus 7 would be pump enough for vortex brewing a couple 32 gallon vessels (trash cans) simultaneously using a "T" in the air line ...
 

OrganicBuds

Active member
Veteran
Just setup a simple 5 gallon brewer, and started a batch with EWC, molasses and hydrolysate.

Wondering if the EcoPlus 7 would be pump enough for vortex brewing a couple 32 gallon vessels (trash cans) simultaneously using a "T" in the air line ...

I believe if you go to microbeorganics.com it tells you what pump size is good up to how many gallons. I want to say the 7 is only up to 10 gal, then you want the commercial 5, but it has been a while since I read that. Maybe MM can chime in?
 

gOurd^jr.

Active member
My pleasure Heady! Thanks to you for starting this awesome thread and inspiring me to get an airlift goin on.
Yesterday I applied a brew from it and was surprised, shocked really, to find a LIVE worm swimming in the tea. At application after ~24hrs. Must be some good DO levels in there cause I woulda bet on it drowning pretty quickly. Had to come out of the FRESH vermicompost...

On another note I bought a microscope! Don't think you need to spend $300 or more on a scope everyone! This model here sells for 95$ online http://www.opticsplanet.net/konus-college-600x-biological-microscope.html
I scored mine on CL a little cheaper yet and it works just fine. Waiting on some slides to arrive, but I stretched some plastic wrap over the slide tray part and then cover a drop or two of tea with another piece of plastic wrap for my temporary solution. works OK. I definitely saw some protozoans and bacteria moving around and some fungal hyphae too. This brew I added some more compost variety including 3-4 cups fresh Vermicompost, ~1/4 cup composted alpaca manure, and maybe a Tbs. old alfalfa pellets I found in a bucket in the shed, they were fuzzy with white fungi. Next brew I'm gonna dig out a couple of fungified wood chips from last years garden mulch...
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My pleasure Heady! Thanks to you for starting this awesome thread and inspiring me to get an airlift goin on.
Yesterday I applied a brew from it and was surprised, shocked really, to find a LIVE worm swimming in the tea. At application after ~24hrs. Must be some good DO levels in there cause I woulda bet on it drowning pretty quickly. Had to come out of the FRESH vermicompost...

On another note I bought a microscope! Don't think you need to spend $300 or more on a scope everyone! This model here sells for 95$ online http://www.opticsplanet.net/konus-college-600x-biological-microscope.html
I scored mine on CL a little cheaper yet and it works just fine. Waiting on some slides to arrive, but I stretched some plastic wrap over the slide tray part and then cover a drop or two of tea with another piece of plastic wrap for my temporary solution. works OK. I definitely saw some protozoans and bacteria moving around and some fungal hyphae too. This brew I added some more compost variety including 3-4 cups fresh Vermicompost, ~1/4 cup composted alpaca manure, and maybe a Tbs. old alfalfa pellets I found in a bucket in the shed, they were fuzzy with white fungi. Next brew I'm gonna dig out a couple of fungified wood chips from last years garden mulch...

I guess you get what you pay for; A light is pretty essential for good microbe identification but I'm sure you'll see some shadows and movement with that scope. You can get one of those for $30 to $50 normally.
 
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