Thanks! It’s been good so far. I’ve had some taller rooms that I had to keep the intensity at %100 vs %115.
I ll get some better ones.
First one is ice cream cake, then triangle kush.
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60 DE Nanolux 600 Coco DTW setup/grow
- Thread starter eric2028
- Start date
First one is ice cream cake, then triangle kush.
Hello fam, I’ve been meaning to post this for about a week. What makes a good grow? I think we all know. Good lights, temps, humidity, nutrient regimen, air circulation, lack of bugs and fungus/mold. Canopy management definitely wasn’t the first thing to pop in my mind. I think that’s where you separate the men from the boys. The guys that are doing ok vs. the guys that are killing the game!! Personally this is what I’m focused on perfecting. The truth is if your canopy is not taking up every square inch of your grow space then your not reaching your potential and profits are left on the table.
My canopy management hasn’t been great(let’s be honest). Basically in the past I’ve thrown a couple layers of trellace net over the plants and about 14,000 stakes and that’s it. Basically the net just supported my buds and growth wasn’t trained(except for excessive topping). I’ve done pretty good with this technique but I can do better.
My support rods have given me the ability to keep a tight trellace net and essential control over my canopy.
So my question is how do YOU scrog? And when? Tips, tricks? Heres my work in progress. Day 16 in bloom. Btw- 40 amps glad to hear your progress with jacks.
My canopy management hasn’t been great(let’s be honest). Basically in the past I’ve thrown a couple layers of trellace net over the plants and about 14,000 stakes and that’s it. Basically the net just supported my buds and growth wasn’t trained(except for excessive topping). I’ve done pretty good with this technique but I can do better.
My support rods have given me the ability to keep a tight trellace net and essential control over my canopy.
So my question is how do YOU scrog? And when? Tips, tricks? Heres my work in progress. Day 16 in bloom. Btw- 40 amps glad to hear your progress with jacks.
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Man, Im with you on canopy management.
I top and pend the hell out of my plants. I try and fill 5x11 ft of scrog with 4 plants, sometimes 8.
Im mean to the girls in the early days. Thinking about the base I want. Removing all that compromises that. I never let any one branch become dominant.
I pull my first net real low and start weaving. I keep weaving til 10 to 14 days in flower. Stretch seems critical for not letting any one branch rise above the others for me. Lots of green rubber wire in my training along with topping, fiming and pinch and bending.
I play hell on defoliation after stretch. I cant get to the back of my canopy and need to remedy that. I had 3/4 lb of popcorn this last run. That to me is a real disappointment
I’ve been defoliating pretty heavy on day 1 and day 21ish. I see a lot of ppl also do it around day 42 as well. I haven’t tried it that late yet...
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Ive hit 3 per 1000 watt growing recirculating hydro SOG with parabolic hoods on light movers and no canopy management, plant training is a pain in the ass lol but definitely makes a big difference done well.
Calcium edta 10% 1/4 teaspoon approximately 33.06878307ppm per gallon.
Calcium edta 10% 1/4 teaspoon approximately 33.06878307ppm per gallon.
I wish I had more input on canopy. I use the half cinder blocks and a metal pole every 4-6 ft kept in place with quickrete and trellis (cost effective). I train and prune based on genetics and experience. Experience with large volumes of genetics over time has really helped with this. Most of it is just actually doing it.
With a lot of popular genes these days chems, sour diesels, ogs, cookies its definitely easy know how they should be trained and pruned for best yield. This is good for hazes, african, south american, mexican, and thai genes as well. Top (iusually do this much later than other 6 to 8 nodes up maybe more) and leave 2 pairs of branches growing on opposite sides about 6 inches from base of plant. As it grows in first week of flower depending size of pot and medium pull off all but the top two shoots but leave most of the leaves mid plant up, the branches will train easy into trellis and as long as spacing is efficient they wont be crammed,. Works on nearly every hybrid of those genes too. I would never do this style on a vast majority of skunks, ghanis, straight blueberries, bubba or hybrids, and definitely never on any NL varieties or you are not only losing yield you are making your veg times way too long. This wont matter on small grow but big things need to be on point. On those I would clean up the bottoms but leave the middle and main cola alone or if too bushy go straight sog. Also prune shoots on bottom of middle branches you kept. Judge each plant individually but most end up this way in that gene pool.
Looking at my garden and seeing erics I would recommend leaving it alone...I have as much desire to change ratios as Eric did when I was tooling around with ca and mg levels. From top to bottom my girls are 100% perfection. I feel the elation of hitting a grand slam or game winning touch down every time I walk in my room. My plants are better than my organic plants and they were pretty incredible but at the very bottom 2 inches from soil those leave would sometimes fade or have some blemish from just being old. I don't even have that on my girls and my grow is all seed almost. All sortx of OGs, forum cut crossea, legend, tahoe, chem 91.
I would stick the updated recipe he is using. If you see issues has to be environment or something else ie girl friend, insects...
With a lot of popular genes these days chems, sour diesels, ogs, cookies its definitely easy know how they should be trained and pruned for best yield. This is good for hazes, african, south american, mexican, and thai genes as well. Top (iusually do this much later than other 6 to 8 nodes up maybe more) and leave 2 pairs of branches growing on opposite sides about 6 inches from base of plant. As it grows in first week of flower depending size of pot and medium pull off all but the top two shoots but leave most of the leaves mid plant up, the branches will train easy into trellis and as long as spacing is efficient they wont be crammed,. Works on nearly every hybrid of those genes too. I would never do this style on a vast majority of skunks, ghanis, straight blueberries, bubba or hybrids, and definitely never on any NL varieties or you are not only losing yield you are making your veg times way too long. This wont matter on small grow but big things need to be on point. On those I would clean up the bottoms but leave the middle and main cola alone or if too bushy go straight sog. Also prune shoots on bottom of middle branches you kept. Judge each plant individually but most end up this way in that gene pool.
Looking at my garden and seeing erics I would recommend leaving it alone...I have as much desire to change ratios as Eric did when I was tooling around with ca and mg levels. From top to bottom my girls are 100% perfection. I feel the elation of hitting a grand slam or game winning touch down every time I walk in my room. My plants are better than my organic plants and they were pretty incredible but at the very bottom 2 inches from soil those leave would sometimes fade or have some blemish from just being old. I don't even have that on my girls and my grow is all seed almost. All sortx of OGs, forum cut crossea, legend, tahoe, chem 91.
I would stick the updated recipe he is using. If you see issues has to be environment or something else ie girl friend, insects...
I am similar to 40Amps.
My training starts before they go to flower.
First I grow the plant close to the height I need for flower. At that point I break off the tip of the main. This causes the lower branches to start growing more and slows down the main.
After the side branches start growing faster I will pluck the fan leaves off the main to slow that down and let the side branches catch up. When a side branch does catch up I start plucking the fans on that side branch also. I do this till I have enough branches of similar sizes.
My goal in flower is not to trim the plants at all. I want to do all my trimming before flowers have set. This way I dont stunt the plant or man handle the flowers.
With this in mind I prune the plant when I put it into flower. This does two things. First it causes a in balance between the roots a foliage. Because of this the plant will grow more foliage to get the roots and foliage back into balance. The second thing it does is direct the new growth where I want it which is bud development which happens at the one or two nodes I leave. And remember the fans I left below are now sending at the sugars they make to the few nodes at the end of the branches. So instead of one fan feeding the node it will have all the fans you left below.
Now That leads me to the way I prune on day one of flower. This works on most plants. Some plants like Golden Goat you will drop your yield drastically. So try the strain first if you do not know how it will react in flower before doing all your plants like this unless you already know how it will react.
I take all branches that are not at least 1/4 the diameter of the branch it comes from. Second I take the branch and growth tips and leave just the fan. I take every growth tip below the first one or two on each branch I am saving.
By doing this I have all the growth tips on the top of the canopy with a large amount of fans below feeding the tips. All the fans will cause the tips to grow bigger. As the cola grows up the fans below it will get shaded and often times die. But you will not have pop corn or larf this way. This is because you just directed the growth from the rebalancing of the roots to foliage to your growth tips.
And because you only have colas growing on the top you do not have to trim fans latter in flower to open up the canopy. That is unless you have to many colas to start with. So keep a eye on the cola density in flower to know how many you need when you grow the strain again. As you know some colas are fatter than others.
Here is some pictures of what I get when doing this type of pruning.
My training starts before they go to flower.
First I grow the plant close to the height I need for flower. At that point I break off the tip of the main. This causes the lower branches to start growing more and slows down the main.
After the side branches start growing faster I will pluck the fan leaves off the main to slow that down and let the side branches catch up. When a side branch does catch up I start plucking the fans on that side branch also. I do this till I have enough branches of similar sizes.
My goal in flower is not to trim the plants at all. I want to do all my trimming before flowers have set. This way I dont stunt the plant or man handle the flowers.
With this in mind I prune the plant when I put it into flower. This does two things. First it causes a in balance between the roots a foliage. Because of this the plant will grow more foliage to get the roots and foliage back into balance. The second thing it does is direct the new growth where I want it which is bud development which happens at the one or two nodes I leave. And remember the fans I left below are now sending at the sugars they make to the few nodes at the end of the branches. So instead of one fan feeding the node it will have all the fans you left below.
Now That leads me to the way I prune on day one of flower. This works on most plants. Some plants like Golden Goat you will drop your yield drastically. So try the strain first if you do not know how it will react in flower before doing all your plants like this unless you already know how it will react.
I take all branches that are not at least 1/4 the diameter of the branch it comes from. Second I take the branch and growth tips and leave just the fan. I take every growth tip below the first one or two on each branch I am saving.
By doing this I have all the growth tips on the top of the canopy with a large amount of fans below feeding the tips. All the fans will cause the tips to grow bigger. As the cola grows up the fans below it will get shaded and often times die. But you will not have pop corn or larf this way. This is because you just directed the growth from the rebalancing of the roots to foliage to your growth tips.
And because you only have colas growing on the top you do not have to trim fans latter in flower to open up the canopy. That is unless you have to many colas to start with. So keep a eye on the cola density in flower to know how many you need when you grow the strain again. As you know some colas are fatter than others.
Here is some pictures of what I get when doing this type of pruning.
Eric.... this is a great thread. Really appreciate the info being offered.
I am a long time Jacks Hydro/Calnit user and would like to share my mixing strategy. I mix one part stock solutions to be diluted down to the desired feed EC.
For Veg 100 grams Jacks Hydro and 84 grams cal nit...dissolved one at a time into 5 gallons of water and diluted to your desired EC
For Flower 100 grams Jacks Hydro and 55 grams cal nit ( keep trimming the calnit as needed) .....into 5 gallons and diluted to your desired EC.
It takes all the work out of hitting your target ratios for veg and flower....just dilute to the feed strength your plants like.
Did i have 20 or 23( or whatever volume) gallons in the res? Does not make a difference because the stock solution is already set at the right ratio...just adjust EC.
Its good to note that at these dilutions mixing the hydro and calnit into 1part stock solution does not cause any lock out....im often mix it stronger with no issues.
Add some cal or mag if you feel the need.....i dissolve a little gypsum to keep pushing the cal and sulphur.
Jacks is so cheap and effective.... i just had to share.
May be this helps someone, or not.
Great thread either way.
I am a long time Jacks Hydro/Calnit user and would like to share my mixing strategy. I mix one part stock solutions to be diluted down to the desired feed EC.
For Veg 100 grams Jacks Hydro and 84 grams cal nit...dissolved one at a time into 5 gallons of water and diluted to your desired EC
For Flower 100 grams Jacks Hydro and 55 grams cal nit ( keep trimming the calnit as needed) .....into 5 gallons and diluted to your desired EC.
It takes all the work out of hitting your target ratios for veg and flower....just dilute to the feed strength your plants like.
Did i have 20 or 23( or whatever volume) gallons in the res? Does not make a difference because the stock solution is already set at the right ratio...just adjust EC.
Its good to note that at these dilutions mixing the hydro and calnit into 1part stock solution does not cause any lock out....im often mix it stronger with no issues.
Add some cal or mag if you feel the need.....i dissolve a little gypsum to keep pushing the cal and sulphur.
Jacks is so cheap and effective.... i just had to share.
May be this helps someone, or not.
Great thread either way.
You are quoting Ibechillin's which worked pretty good and I'd like to experiment sometime in a res with blumats. I chose not to do Ibe's because of my blumats and res. The gypsum I don't think will circulate well due to its weight it clumped at bottom a bit during testing when hand watering. You cannot hand water larger size gardens though and be cost effective.
This is Erics updated version. While I tested a lot of CA and MG changes he simply added MKP and stuck with his original ratio. This so far is incredible in my flower room on every single plant. I am actually using just his flower recipe for stretch and things look better than 99% of the people out there doing big things. Just stick to the recipe. You get MG def you probably got Fungus gnat larvae. If you do have some crazy outlier plant that needs more MG hand water it. If you mix in res you must mix MG in BEFORE Calnit and fully dissolve.
Veg Stretch and Flower (per gallon)
3g NPK -- 2.5g Calnit -- .5 MKP (.25 for veg)
387.9434ppm total needed per gallon from jacks 5-12-26
225ppm total needed per gallon from Calnit
Total ppm no MKP: 612.9434ppm
Total ppm with MKP: 680~ will be less if veg formula with less mkp
This is his cloning formula just to have a concise post for others who may have missed things or aren't up to date:
Clone recipe:
Clonex solution 10mls/gallon
Hormex 3-4 mls/ gallon
Clear Rez 6 mls/ gallon
Change on day 7 or 8 to
Clonex 15 ml/ gallon
Clear Rez 6 ml/ gallon
Drop the hormex
ro water ph comes out at 5.9. Water Temps between 72-75.
If you have issues cloning or growing you have environmental problems, someone scheming in your grow room, plant disease, or bugs.
PS Eric I am running 84-89 temps and no chillers for my reservoirs (multiple 60 gallons) = a shit load of savings in electricity and heat output. We will see how this pans out for the entirety of the grow. So far WOW.
Been running that recipe for a bit now. Going to continue to push ca
This should read calcium nitrate not caltrate. He just misspelled it. He is saying to have 225ppm of the calcium nitrate per gallon.
Sorry yes let me edit I copy pasted from notes a bit ago but yeah Calnit is what I always write others putting Caltrate. It is all jacks basic 2 part and per gallon. We don't need any additives or anything different than what is posted. You want to throw extra stuff on their do it, but I don't see any reason to change absolutely perfect plants. I am a perfectionist wannabe in my rooms and this is as good as it gets.
This is the new GratefulHeads Formula 6/9. It is that solid of a formula and better obviously to boot. It is the future for sure and deserves to be stickied or have its own thread and stickied. I learned Hormex from Head back in the day in his 6/9 thread. I wonder if Eric is related hah
This is the new GratefulHeads Formula 6/9. It is that solid of a formula and better obviously to boot. It is the future for sure and deserves to be stickied or have its own thread and stickied. I learned Hormex from Head back in the day in his 6/9 thread. I wonder if Eric is related hah
Sorry yes let me edit I copy pasted from notes a bit ago but yeah Calnit is what I always write others putting Caltrate. It is all jacks basic 2 part and per gallon. We don't need any additives or anything different than what is posted. You want to throw extra stuff on their do it, but I don't see any reason to change absolutely perfect plants. I am a perfectionist wannabe in my rooms and this is as good as it gets.
This is the new GratefulHeads Formula 6/9. It is that solid of a formula and better obviously to boot. It is the future for sure and deserves to be stickied or have its own thread and stickied. I learned Hormex from Head back in the day in his 6/9 thread. I wonder if Eric is related hah
Definitely a freakin awesome mix. I was starting to doubt my jacks.
Supposedly, e ca 10 dissolvine is more water soluble. Ordered 5 lbs to screw around with and see.
I cant have stuff settle like gypsum as Im running a recirculated ppk system. Coco pots for girls 1st time in the room.
