Damaged plants from Broad ,cyclamen,Russet Mites

in the end i harvested those plants, it was a smaller harvest than planned...then i super cleaned out the area and moved on w/ new plants from a different guy..

2 years of War! I try everything you say. Heat treatment, all the chemical product with different rotation avid abamectin spinosat floramite, and Many Many oder and with different rotation . Also for every day! The situation with chemical control go quickly down... They re produce too much quickly. In 1 week The chemical treatment become fresh water and The situation was better without! Never heard people really completly resolve with chemical. The beauveria and orher entompathogen work only a littlebit and need for all The time high UR and 23C degrees. Than some day you are another time at The start. I try Many amblyseyus californicus swirskii cucumeris andersoni! The only function is The andersoni. I use ever with cucumeris but only The andersoni is important. The californicus not function... Swirskii is difficult to say. You need put andersoni about Every 2-3month. Important never forget order because when you resee The sintoms is too late and to resolve need 2-3week for toxin digestion of The plant! The problem for Many people wan use this metod is They come by Chem treatment and need wait some time. You can use beauveria or similar during this time. I know heat treatment is good method but is better pass after abamectin, with hot They take better... I never use I need to save about 20mother of rare genetic and can't burn all or get away all... The war is not finish for me but I start another time to be happy person. Try to believe. Thanks and sorry for mu bad english and remember NEVER GIVE UP!

The andersonii work well for me too. I have no problems eradicating them with forbid or kontos.. The problem is they are very good at staying around the environment and reinfecting. Painting my rooms has really helped.

Would a sprouted barely seed tea be comparable to aspirin? Also how much aspirin per gallon?

LilTia said:

2 years of War! I try everything you say. Heat treatment, all the chemical product with different rotation avid abamectin spinosat floramite, and Many Many oder and with different rotation . Also for every day! The situation with chemical control go quickly down... They re produce too much quickly. In 1 week The chemical treatment become fresh water and The situation was better without! Never heard people really completly resolve with chemical. The beauveria and orher entompathogen work only a littlebit and need for all The time high UR and 23C degrees. Than some day you are another time at The start. I try Many amblyseyus californicus swirskii cucumeris andersoni! The only function is The andersoni. I use ever with cucumeris but only The andersoni is important. The californicus not function... Swirskii is difficult to say. You need put andersoni about Every 2-3month. Important never forget order because when you resee The sintoms is too late and to resolve need 2-3week for toxin digestion of The plant! The problem for Many people wan use this metod is They come by Chem treatment and need wait some time. You can use beauveria or similar during this time. I know heat treatment is good method but is better pass after abamectin, with hot They take better... I never use I need to save about 20mother of rare genetic and can't burn all or get away all... The war is not finish for me but I start another time to be happy person. Try to believe. Thanks and sorry for mu bad english and remember NEVER GIVE UP!

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Liltia

Forbid FTW! Ive had broads recently and took them out with rotating products but with Forbid being the main killer. It is translaminar which means it will pass from the topside to the bottom side of the leaves when spraying. It is not systemic. It will kill broads/russets on contact. It is also an ovacide and will kill the eggs. If you start and finish with forbid and hit the room as well, you shouldn't have any more problems. I would continue to use it on vegging planst for bout 6 months even after not seeing anymore visible signs. Forbid will fuck these bugs day up!
cheers

dimebag

Does it look like mite guys? Ihave 6 more than are healthy, i dont know whats going on with this 2 ladyes...

Great thread. After 2+ years of dealing with these things I finally just yesterday figured out what it was.

Just wondering if I have to completely scrub and bleach down my entire set up and equipment like I had to do with spider mites or does just treating the plants do the trick? Gonna hit them with some forbid 4f.

Rabbi said:

Great thread. After 2+ years of dealing with these things I finally just yesterday figured out what it was.

Just wondering if I have to completely scrub and bleach down my entire set up and equipment like I had to do with spider mites or does just treating the plants do the trick? Gonna hit them with some forbid 4f.

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Rabbi-

Congrats on figuring out this nitemare of a problem! These guys are way smaller and gnarlier than spider mites. Ive had SM plenty of times and they are a walk in the park compared. You're gonna wanna clean out your room as best as you ever have and spray everything with forbid that you can…walls…trays…buckets ..etc. Then I would also bomb the room with a strong pyrethrin or other type of total release insecticide.

Hit your plants thoroughly with forbid @1ml/gal from top to bottom underneath sides too…drench them. I also used a yucca extract for a wetting agent/spreader. Then I believe I hit mine again with forbid about 5-7 days later to allow the plants to recover from the first treatment and also to get any stragglers and eggs that may have survived. So hit them twice… about one week apart.

People will say that BM's will get immune to certain pesticides when using them repeatedly, so don't do more than 2 back to back applications. But Forbid works 100% effectively and is systemic in the plant for like 2-4 weeks or something like that. Its also translaminar which means that it passes from the topside to the underside of the leaf on its own. With 2 foliar applications its the fucking holocaust for them. I don't think there is a more effective synthetic product for them…and organics don't do shit.

These bugs made me almost lose my mind, my house, my family, and I was almost on the street cuz I couldn't figure it out for over 6 months and lost many harvests…too many. They are no fucking joke. You wanna knock them out the first time around so they don't start to build up any immunity to Forbid or anything else your using.
Good luck man! Hope this helps.

DB

So after completely bleaching my room, equipment and foilar spraying with avid and Forbid every other day and switching between the two each time, 4 or 5 times each. I officially give up.

The forbid and avid haven't even slowed em down I don't think. This is the first time I feel completely defeated and tossing in the towel.

Thankfully I'm moving soon so just gonna start fresh at the new place and pray to god I don't spread em.

Most of you can't get rid of broad and russets because you don't understand them. Just foliar don't cut it. You need to do soil drenches too and clean pots. If you are using smart pots then you get screwed. If you kept any flowers gion infected harvests, then they are living on those dried flowers too, plus the jars and bags and surrounding area where you keep all of that. Sulfur spray is one of the number one thing that slows them down. Slowing them down is key because they reproduce too quickly. Read some university papers on the subject. There is far better information in those papers than any cannabis website can give you

Actually I grow hydro and bleached all my equipment and every inch of the room. I'm at the completely start over point.

Rabbi said:

Actually I grow hydro and bleached all my equipment and every inch of the room. I'm at the completely start over point.

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Super old thread, hoping you have better luck this time around

Dope post! Why is this not a stickie