New grow process?/What to call it?

pray4pistils said:

Right on. My hunch is that the HyNT method will work better because of the extended brewing time which makes the nutrients more available to the plant. The alternating synthetic/organic method probably flushes the semi-processed organics away before they're even ready for action. Did you notice any obvious changes when you switched to this thread's process? That is, aside from the Ginormous.

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it's all relative and i'm an old soil grower gone coco....i'm used to seeing a specific growth rate.....the doublegum being only my second run (first successful) in coco, i've been pretty amazed by the growth rates.... the ginormous wasn't the only recent change, just the most recent.... about a week prior, i started feeding her my first HyNT solution in very late flower, she only got it for a week or so and than to r/o w/ clearex.

that nug is also dead center, 3" below my LED panel....i can say for her last two weeks she's really been stacking up.... i mean she's growing buds out of her buds.... almost wanted to just let her go, but she's going amber n i need some smoke....

i only have my memory to back this up, but the growth rate of the 'cannabis' seedlings currently in veg, feeding on the HyNT, is twice that of the 'doublegums' when they were feeding on my weekday/weekend thing.... that may be wishfull thinking but, yes, obvious changes with HyNT...... hyper growth rates.


for 3 nights my rez was locked in to a ph of 6.0.... my obsessive ass couldn't leave well enough alone and tried to drop it a tenth or two.... went too far of course, got her fluctuating again (this is why i'm an angry ph adjuster.... i like to go too far).... for those 3 nights of adding nothing to the rez my TDS kept rising a little.... tonight it sits at 1.95 ec, ph 6.0


i've never been much of a foliar feeder but i'm gonna start... recently acquired two different potassium silicate products... i'm with pistils and don't wanna add anything to my rez thats gonna increase my ph, so i added the rhino skin to my HyNS at 1/4 strength and rained on 'em pretty hard... funny thing happened (or not so funny), some of this mist must have drifted to my sour bubble sprouts and burned the shit out of 'em... guess foliar feeding hits hard....

perhaps someone could break down their method of foliar feeding....

generalgrievous said:

i've never been much of a foliar feeder but i'm gonna start... recently acquired two different potassium silicate products... i'm with pistils and don't wanna add anything to my rez thats gonna increase my ph, so i added the rhino skin to my HyNS at 1/4 strength and rained on 'em pretty hard... funny thing happened (or not so funny), some of this mist must have drifted to my sour bubble sprouts and burned the shit out of 'em... guess foliar feeding hits hard....

perhaps someone could break down their method of foliar feeding....

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generalgrievous

Without getting into a discussion on Advanced Nutrients, let me suggest that you read some labels on Rhino Skin, Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, Botanicare Silica Blast and set aside any personal feelings about this or that company - just read the labels and the amount of 'active' ingredients vs. inert ingredients.

There's a liberation in reading labels and finding out who's screwing who in the whole scheme of things.

Heh.......................

CC

thnx coot..... i do realize that rhino skin is 1% as opposed to pro-tekt at 7+%...had the pro-tekt on order, i'm impatient and obsessive .... grabbed a small bottle of rhino skin to get on immediately.... i seem to have no problem wasting money when it comes my cannabis kids....

worked out as i'm still waiting for the dyna-grow.....





btw..... 4 of 5 chem d x spacedawg have sexed..... 1:1 so far... the remaining plant is my favorite so i hope she a she.....

How often should aerated compost teas be applied? Is more always better? Is it a good Idea to always water indoor potted plants with compost tea? What about in an outdoor garden? What about a recirculating res? I was thinking about making a RDWC into a giant tea brewer.

Do the microbes die after a certain amount of time and need to be replaced?

Is it better to water with a different brewing recipe each time to create diversity from watering to watering?

Will the microbes eat synthetic nutes?

generalgrievous said:

i only have my memory to back this up, but the growth rate of the 'cannabis' seedlings currently in veg, feeding on the HyNT, is twice that of the 'doublegums' when they were feeding on my weekday/weekend thing.... that may be wishfull thinking but, yes, obvious changes with HyNT...... hyper growth rates.

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Wow.

for 3 nights my rez was locked in to a ph of 6.0.... my obsessive ass couldn't leave well enough alone and tried to drop it a tenth or two

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I've found that it's many times more difficult for me to nail 5.8 as it is to keep things at 6.1. Even that takes pH down with an EC of 1.7 but not a lot. Heck, trying to hold at less than 5.8 probably requires a dripper system full of phosphoric acid.

for those 3 nights of adding nothing to the rez my TDS kept rising a little.... tonight it sits at 1.95 ec, ph 6.0

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That's about as stable as I've ever achieved, General. This week I've been doing straight synthetics because I've been in out of town. HyNT seems to combine the best of synthetics and organics but it also takes more effort right now. I feel that it's a great balance but would LOVE to reduce the input.

i've never been much of a foliar feeder but i'm gonna start... recently acquired two different potassium silicate products...

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Right ON. I headed over to see my hydro dude yesterday in search of some Dyna Gro Protekt. Instead of that, though, I left with Barricade from AN. Spare me the grief, Coot! LOL! The Protekt wasn't there and my guy gave me the Barricade for $10 'cause I'm smooth n' debonair like that.

funny thing happened (or not so funny), some of this mist must have drifted to my sour bubble sprouts and burned the shit out of 'em... guess foliar feeding hits hard....

perhaps someone could break down their method of foliar feeding....

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Mmmmm... yeah... You shouldn't EVER spray when your plants are directly under HIDs. Lower foliage that's shaded is okay but not the tops. Doing it just 15 minutes before the lights come on is ideal because there'll be time for it to soak in. Then, the lights will dry it all off. Or, do it after the lights come on so long as you raise them up higher. Doing when the lights are off is entirely reasonable so long as you've got a fan blowing and dry conditions.

Wait a sec... Did you get light burn or chemical burn? If it's the latter, then avoid problems by diluting to 25% or so.

Balazar said:

How often should aerated compost teas be applied?

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I do it with each add back.

Is more always better?

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No, and that's true no matter what we're talking about with the exception of oxygen. There's never enough. The more the merrier.

Is it a good Idea to always water indoor potted plants with compost tea? What about in an outdoor garden?

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I've never heard of any limits in soil and soilless mixes.

What about a recirculating res? I was thinking about making a RDWC into a giant tea brewer.

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That's exactly what I've been doing all throughout this thread! Well, my set up is ebb & grow buckets, but that's irrelevant.

Do the microbes die after a certain amount of time and need to be replaced?

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They don't die so much as go dormant if you don't care for them correctly or after their food is depleted. Then, they tend to be eaten by other microbes. Read the thread for pointers on how to go about this.

Is it better to water with a different brewing recipe each time to create diversity from watering to watering?

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It's very wise to provide different foods to create the diversity that you seek.

Will the microbes eat synthetic nutes?

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Some will. Some won't. It depends. Each type of microbe wants different living conditions and different foods. Your best bet is to keep it all varied. Definitely read through this thread, though. -especially the pages where I explain the process.

pray4pistils said:

Right ON. I headed over to see my hydro dude yesterday in search of some Dyna Gro Protekt. Instead of that, though, I left with Barricade from AN. Spare me the grief, Coot! LOL! The Protekt wasn't there and my guy gave me the Barricade for $10 'cause I'm smooth n' debonair like that.

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pray4pistils

A couple of items worthy of note...................

1. At least you asked about Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt

2. You were able to buy an Advanced Nutrients' product at a fair price.

Is it just me or are we witnessing signs and miracles?? The end times perhaps. Taco-Lips Now?

Hard call actually.

Honestly - you'll be pleased with the effect that liquid silicon (regardless of the packer) will have on your garden. Seriously.

CC

We gotsta be resourceful these days. I'll look forward to some benefits!

Anywho how should I apply this EM-1 lacto bacteria stuff? I got a liter in from UPS this afternoon. I did a foliar spray and also threw a dose into a batch of tea. Well, the fish stink disappeared immediately. I mean within 10 hours instead of 2 days. Secondly, it doesn't foam at all. From what I read it seems to be happiest in anerobic conditions. I've got mine bubbling, anyway, because I'm scared of the "nasties" that come with non-aerated water.

pray4pistils said:

Anywho how should I apply this EM-1 lacto bacteria stuff? I got a liter in from UPS this afternoon. I did a foliar spray and also threw a dose into a batch of tea. Well, the fish stink disappeared immediately. I mean within 10 hours instead of 2 days. Secondly, it doesn't foam at all. From what I read it seems to be happiest in anerobic conditions. I've got mine bubbling, anyway, because I'm scared of the "nasties" that come with non-aerated water.

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pray4pistils

The most cost-effective way of using EM-1 is to make AEM (activated EM) which is where you take 2x EM-1 mother culture, 2x molasses, 20x water. You let this ferment until you hit a PH of 3.2-3.5 - get the 'limited PH paper' as it will make your process insure success.

The rate of application for EM-1/AEM is 3/4 tsp. per gallon of clear water. This is a suitable application rate for both a 'soil/root soak' as well as a foliar application.

The PNSB bacteria is one of the most important bacteria components to EM-1. Doing a bit of research on PNSBs relative to photo-synthesis will be an interesting one for an individual like yourself - i.e. looking and researching growing structures.

HTH

CC

pistils - how much carb-load and humic acid are you adding to the res to feed the good guys? Also how often if at all do you do a res change?

Balazar

Is a 'carb-load' about adding a sugar/carbohydrate like molasses or organic blue agave nectar, et al?

Or is this a specific product perhaps?

Thanks!

CC

AN calls their sugar/carb additive carb-load and in my circle of friends we have just come to call whatever sugar/carb mixture we have the carb-load. I have a recipe that is close to theirs but a little tweaked to my own preferences

unsulphered molasses (blackstrap)
powered honey
brown sugar
agave nectar
cracked barley
ground flax seed

You can use whatever simple sugars and carb sources that you have on hand. The main ingredient is blackstrap molasses. Some other goodies to add are:

coconut water (but not in the last two weeks of flower because it has hormones in it)
any kind of grain (I try to avoid gluten so there isn't much of that around my grow)
fruit juices (especially banana)

I use this stuff as a base to make tasty things in the kitchen as well (like my BBQ sauce but I'll never give the recipe for that away lol)

pray4pistils said:

Wait a sec... Did you get light burn or chemical burn? If it's the latter, then avoid problems by diluting to 25% or so.

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chemical burn.... but i didn't feed, foliar or otherwise... the only thing i think could've happened is they got stray mist from the other veging plants.... gonna watch that.

btw.... their gonna be just fine after some burning .... :



my rez is now over 2 ec and ph is still fluctuating....gonna flip the chem d x spacedawg seedling early next week so time to think about a early flowering hybrid nutrient solution,,, i've been pilfering through tea recipes and am gonna use mother mary's flower tea i got from a skunk mag ...just need to get some soft rock phosphate....


pistils..... i don't really want to have a rez for my flowering plants and my veging youngins.... i think my options are nutes in veg, HyNT in flower.... or feed both the flowering solution... perhaps diluted and amended for the vegers.... whats your approach....?


little porn..... 48 hours into shock ripening.... for anyone catching up this girl fed in late flower on my first attempt at pistils method.... she responded extremely well .. her buds are stacking up with massive foxtails .... shoving out trich, calyx, and pistils at a frightening rate.... even this late in the game...



.... in the upper left you can see the freak crystal fraggle head bud, with 3 others next to her starting up the same ...whatever. she gets cut on sunday or monday... an afternoon of modifications to the closet and in go's the chemD x spacedawg ...


born and raised on the HyNT....


2 female, 2 male, and my favorite, on the right, still undetermined....

my early flowering hybrid nutrient solution in progress.

my early flowering hybrid nutrient solution in progress.

'the tea'


1 gl. r/o, ec 0, ph 6.5
1 tsp. happy frog all purpose dry fert.
1 tsp. high P bat guano.
1 c. ewc.
1 tsp. maxi-crop liquid.
1/4 tsp. soft rock phosphate.
1 tsp. bs molasses.
1 tsp. each, soil secrets earth ambrosia and earth nectar (my addition to mother mary's flower tea recipe).


i combined everything except the molasses, taking note of ec and ph readings, starting at 0 and 6.5 respectively, and ending with 1.3 and 7.1

this was aerated for 24 hours,i dropped in the molasses tonight. ec 1.675, ph 7.2. i imagine this will change in the next couple days.

not gonna assemble the 'nutes' portion of my solution till this weekend... . i would like my collective solution to stick around 1.5 ec. thats where i plan on leveling off nutrient strength this grow, unless they look like their starving....

pistils... you're right about the citric acid not sticking, it must evaporate out with the aeration. i'll keep playing with it.


had less than a dark cycle of downtime in my flower closet.... with mondays veg to flower/harvest with slight mods to the room transition.... and the plants look happy.

4 female ... 1 male ...

How about this for a name?
"Best of both worlds"

In my experiance ferts do not kill beneficials.
But i have no way of counting them so that's empirical statment.
I'd like to have bigtoke's expertise on this topic for he seems to be using beneficials in his grows for a long time.

I am using these Dutch ferts which claim to be made by biosythesis and meet your criterias.
http://hydroculture.nu/

I am using those in a recycling multiple waterfarm plus controler and with an aquapump (house for the beneficials and filter).
With succes.

What do you think about those ferts?
They claim to be partly organic.

PEACE

pray4pistils said:

Very nice. Would you please describe what helps and hurts? I haven't found anything that kills off my little critters. That's a good thing, of course.



Well, I don't alternate at all actually. The basic practice is to feed the plants directly with FloraNova Grow/Bloom at about a 2/3 normal concentration. I simultaneously prepare aerobic compost tea, filter it (with my ice hash bags), and pour it into my reservoir. The final 1/3 of the nutrients come from this brew but the total EC/ppm is about 20% less than with pure synthetics. This allows me to grow plants with varying nutritional needs (and sensitivities to burning, etc.) but feed them from a common reservoir. At the very end of a cycle I switch to 100% organics and don't bother flushing/starving the plants.




Thanks for stopping by, Coot. Given that you're an organic specialist I'm especially keen to hear your perspective. Do understand, though, that (aside from the "flush period") I'm running both organic teas and FloraNova at the same time the whole way through. Anyway, do you apply teas or just mix the whole foods into your soil?

Cheers,

P.S. What do y'all think I should use as a name for this hybrid practice?

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My friend does Organic till the end then switches to synthetics and he swears he gets yield and flavor.

clackamascoot - I am on the train w/ the trace elements, trying em out atm in hydro.

RESINvention said:

The whole point of growing with chemical fertilizer is to produce an abundant plant, with no focus on the soil life. All the nutrients are force fed to the plant, whether it wants it or not.

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Nutrients are not at all force fed. That sounds like an anti-chemical spin word.

Chemical fertilizers are made available to the roots, just like in an organic grow.

Maybe foliar feeding is force feeding?