it's a damn deal. i'd do it, sell the motor, and get a 35 hp or so and a couple ozs of "fishing supplies" myself...I was think the same. And if the motor runs - and isn't too old - isn't it worth the $s on it's own?
it's a damn deal. i'd do it, sell the motor, and get a 35 hp or so and a couple ozs of "fishing supplies" myself...I was think the same. And if the motor runs - and isn't too old - isn't it worth the $s on it's own?
Up here an old beater trailer that size, in good functional shape, would be worth $500 to $1,000.I was think the same. And if the motor runs - and isn't too old - isn't it worth the $s on it's own?
Salt water's hard on aluminum. So is age and any sort of abrasion.worked on an island on katchemak bay for 10 years,spent a lot of time in the "company" skiff. like 23',aluminum hull,deep v...just a tough little boat,it did all sorts of things sane people don't do with boats...pushing a barge load of horses back and forth,hauling the supplies for the restaurant,that might be 1000lbs of food,a few kegs of beer plus cases of beer,wine,and booze,and a half dozen 70lb propane tanks...some of those trips were no fun....fully loaded skiff,big swells and some wind chop plus fighting against the tide...when you're in alaska you can expect some alaska shit is gonna happen at some point...
but also flat glassy calm nights on the bay running flat out on bar hopping trips,getting lost in the fog and having to anchor up for the night...
good skiff,it's back eventually broke
Thanks for the insight and info, Moose. All valuable information and I'll be sure to ask questions about its build, age, hull, etc.Not personally specifically familiar with McKee Craft Boats, though I think there's a fellow down in Valdez at the moment selling something very similar on FB Alaska Boat Trader, or something like that.
It appears to be a lesser competitor to a Boston Whaler. Not sure if it has injected foam in the fiberglass. If so, then that's a plus, though my bet is that it's an early 1980s boat hull, and foam breaks down over time if ozone has any access at all, let alone UV.
70-hp is a LOT of ponies for a 14-ft. fiberglass boat, unless it's designed to be unsinkable, like a Whaler.
The fellow in Valdez with the similar design and vintage is asking $2,000, with a 40-hp OMC(?) newer deep-cycle battery, light-weight trailer with good rubber, 6-gallon boat tank, etc.
$500, if the fiberglass hull has been cared for and not stored for long periods in direct sunlight, and the motor is clean and minimally used, would be a steal, but will have limitations.
If the thing hasn't been started in 2 years or more, it's apt to have 'varnishing' in the carburetor, and need cleaned out. Also, if the fuel tank is metal, it'll need to be inspected for any flaking or internal rust. If it has any, it would either need to be refinished internally, or replaced. And these days, a cheapo-sleazo, typically Chinese-made plastic/polymer certified boat fuel tank (5-6-gallon) is apt to be pretty close to $100, plus any fuel line. A good fuel line compression bulb will often run you $30 to $40 for good quality. Just all depends on what care has been shown to the boat and accessories up until now.
Fiberglass can last decades or a decade, depending on the care it receives. BUT!! You don't typically need a welder or heavy rivetter to patch it or refinish it, either.
Look at it, see if it fires up, and go from there.
Bear in mind the old adage that 'boats are a hole in the water into which you throw money'. Any small engine-driven equipment that receives extremely limited use often ages more poorly from not being used than if it were used respectfully on a more routine basis. Sitting around doesn't help them.
Look for soft spots or notably discolored or weathered spots in the fiberglass, and flaking or chipping (rot, even) along the gunwales and the hull, as well. seats too. You might be getting a diamond in the rough, or the beginning of a long spending spree toward removing something from life support that might've been better off buried.
A 14-ft. boat of decent seaworthiness (sounds oxymoronic, I know) would be limited to lakes and inside bays on better days for most folks. A sunshine weather boat, depending on your level of self-destructive tendencies or desire for risk-taking.
Good luck with your boating and fishing.
Edit: Here's a link for a McKee Craft Boat from a couple years prior in another part of the country, and each part of the Country will often have its own boat market and varying values that sometimes defy the 'book values.' This one was asking $4,700 for a 1980, so either the guy's delusional, or they may retain their value like a Boston Whaler does.
tillion...technically beck now,but clem's daughterSalt water's hard on aluminum. So is age and any sort of abrasion.
Last trip down the Alcan to the Yukon Territory earlier this month, my son was following me in his car, and I ran over some sort of debris as I was passing a slow-moving truck going down Christmas Creek hill on the north side, headed southeast. It entered under the front passenger side of the van's chassis, looked a bit like a concave arched fender of some sort, and exited the driver's side of the boat trailer, flying up into the air and landing some place on the NE shoulder, off in the tundra. We couldn't find it on our way home < a week later as we crawled up that hill, heading back north, and he had said that when it exited the area beneath the boat trailer's driver's side stern, it flew up like a huge sheet of plastic... like a kite.
I explained to him that in proper turbulence (like the vacuum and subsequent wind turbulence produced by a 65-mph van and boat) sheet metal can fly up like a paper kite. You won't know what it is unless you can examine it after the fact.
So, I'm headed out shortly, half-looped (having sampled the Irish coffee to make sure the coffee, Canadian whisky, and cream are all up to snuff; they are, indeed), to crawl under the boat and determine whether or not that impatient moment of passing on that down-side of that hill cost me a serious injury to a hull.
By the way, I knew folks in the later 1970s who lived across Kachemak Bay at Sadie Cove and Bear Cove before they were more refined as communities, and before the Homer Spit was 'touristized' with their little vendors' tourist shacks and cabins, back when it was still legal for the 'spit rats' to camp in their visqueen palaces so they could afford to work for slave wages at the canneries. Back when Homer had character and 3 health food stores in a community that was maybe 4,000 to 10,000 people, depending on how far out you went to assess population. They would hold a beer and chili feed out there each Fall to clean up the abandoned 'visqueen palaces' (often fairly elaborate driftwood and visqueen constructions, sometimes multi-room dwellings) and few bitched about it then. Commercialization and placating tourism ended that.
Were the cattle you pushed barges full of, the property of the Jones family?
The Jones family had stories to tell unto themselves. Including the old man allegedly shooting the dinner date of his daughter over either the Thanksgiving or Christmas turkey with a rifle from the fireplace hearth when the fellow wouldn't stop talking about things that apparently offended old man Jones.
rolling the dice on the weather. good weather, no sweat. wind comes up, or from the wrong direction ? oh fuck...14ft can definitely be dicey for the ocean
Depending on the body of water, some of those changes can take place in minutes, literally. That's where the increased ponies come in, providing the captain hasn't waited to skedaddle until the chop is severe enough that you're creeping up the waves' crests and decelerating into the troughs, listening to your pick-up tube on your water-cooling system suck air as it comes out of the water as you top each crest, descending into the trough. In which case all the ponies in the world might not get you back to the launch and cover in time.rolling the dice on the weather. good weather, no sweat. wind comes up, or from the wrong direction ? oh fuck...
Doesn't the original filter come out the front? It's got a nice big access panel, I'm guessing is just for hoovering it out then?View attachment 18871911
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What the pictures show is what I worked on yesterday. It's a ventless dryer that has a clogged heat evaporator that is inaccessible. The dryer has to be disassembled to get to the evaporator. The lint is cleared and I have a pile of parts to put back together. I have some fine mesh stainless steel screen to cut a piece in front of the existing screen to catch lint on this side of the screen.
Engineers had their hats on crooked with this design.
Thank you for the technical assistance, Ms. Internet.
There are two filters. The bottom filter is the one that requires a servicing every two years.Doesn't the original filter come out the front? It's got a nice big access panel, I'm guessing is just for hoovering it out then?
my wife/kids are utterly unfazed by the fact that NOT cleaning the filter puts the house (and us) at risk of a fire. WTF? i've checked it before and pulled the shit out thick enough to use when quilting...Bosch has a self cleaning cycle on their ventless dryers.
it's like playing poker. if you are sitting at the table and can't figure out who the target is, guess what ?is the one who doesn't know who's the stupidest.
That evaporator has quite tightly packed fins, which doesn't help. With little fear of it freezing, they have really packed them in.There are two filters. The bottom filter is the one that requires a servicing every two years.
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When the 'cassette' filter housing is installed as illustrated it meets and seats at a screen inside the dryer in front of the evaporator. This is what requires a tear down of the machine to service the lint build up.
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While searching for a fix I found that several people had installed a finer mesh screen over the existing piece. I cut a piece of 120 mesh stainless steel screen and siliconed it over the existing screen. Catching lint before it reaches the evaporator behind the screen is what I am trying to do.
Bosch has a self cleaning cycle on their ventless dryers.
All of those things are above my pay grade. I just turn screws and stack the pieces.I imagine there are hidden valves, to cut off the second one, when you do need to gain some heat.