Rabbi
Member
That is exactly what mine do whenever I go above 1000ppm CO2. Next run use 1000ppm and you should see a difference.
I believe it. I actually unplugged my co2 for now just so I can find out for sure if it's co2 or not.
That is exactly what mine do whenever I go above 1000ppm CO2. Next run use 1000ppm and you should see a difference.
Pretty much all of this. It is true that high ppm of CO2 needs to be matched with appropriate levels of nutes and lighting. That's just the science of the formula for photosynthesis. If there is a bottleneck, in at least one of those three factors, the photosynthesis will only be as successful as its limiting factorwill let it be.
That said, I agree that this is definitely not a calcium deficiency, because it is an immobile element, and you would be seeing a specific look in all of the new growth. What I see here does in fact look like lockout, which can result from several factors, most commonly pH problems. Have you confirmed that your pH meter is accurate? Have you calibrated it? Tested it against some liquid drops or something like that?
If your pH is fine, then if I were you I would consider the possibility that you have fusarium, or some other fungal infection as was previously mentioned. Hell, maybe there's even some strange environmental factor in your new location, like offgassing from some construction product or something random like that.
But yeah, that looks like lockout.
Hopefully you're already aware, but, also make sure your CO2 controller is at the same height as the canopy and not up high as CO2 is heavier than air.
The thing id say about co2 and deficiency would be, you can easily google this, co2 lowers stomatal conductance.. that is to say it pretty much closes them relative to co2 conc.
Lower stomatal conductance = lower transpiration = slower immobile nutrient uptake = calcium deficiency..
Imo a lot of grow styles and regimes, besides organic, leave the plants in a dangerous place at the best of times but add some co2 and some out of wack environmental conditions and you'll get screwed with a uncurable Ca def.. ime anyway.
From my own experience with this, once the damage is done those leaves won't recover, but no others should continue to deteriorate.
Just start at 1000 ppm CO2 next grow and you should see a definite improvement.
So about a little over a year ago I moved to a new place and I have been battling this Calcium issue every since moving here. Here's some info:
- Growing with Aeroponics in 5gal buckets(for almost 18 years now).
- First I was using Jack's Hydo and Cal/Nit but switched to AN 3 part(jungle juice) when the Jacks wasn't working out, since I'm more familiar with it.
- About 800ppm in flower of the M-G-B before any extra cal/mag added(but have gone as high as 1200ppm while trying to hammer things out).
- I am using r/o water(ppm 0)
- Water temps around 20-22c.
- Ph in the 6.5 - 5.5 range.
- Air temps 75-80f with lights on, 72-75f lights off.
- Co2 1500ppm lights on of course.
- 1000watt hps
I've tried adding all different kind of levels of extra cal/mag. At first none because AN says you don't need any with their products since they have enough in them.
Then I tried the recommended 150-200ppm of cal/mag. Then I tried 300ppm. Then I tried 400ppm, then 500 and then ridiculously crazy high amounts that I knew obviously wouldn't work but just to see what would happen, since shit wasn't working anyway.
Even on the super high amounts it never ever looked like excess issues, it always looked deficient all the time(lock out I assume?). And I'm talking super deficient too. Also no salt build up, clean rez's. No bugs. Even tried a different water source(city tap). I tried all these different levels for couple months at a time, just to make sure I wasn't jumping the gun too soon.
I'm literally at a loss right now. Running out of things to try. Just wasting my time, effort, money and resources. Any of you guru's out there have any idea what might be going on here? Been doing this along time, shit's just not suppose to be this fuckin hard lol.
Totally amateur opinion here, but Dutch Master Zone at 1ml per gallon has been a lifesaver for me. I went about a year and a half looking at plants very similar to yours, asking myself the same questions, ready to throw in the towel. 20 crops er so later and the symptoms have yet to show themselves again. If you do have an infection of some kind, DMZ would likely nix it.
Pretty sure bleach, pool shock, or h202 would do just as well, but in my instance, dm zone was the fix.
Anyone else have any other ideas? It's not the co2. It's been over 2 weeks now and I've seen zero improvements .