Joshua Ntr
Member
P lockout do to high K which also locks out Mg
6/9 & A Pinch BayBay!
- Thread starter Coconutz
- Start date
Yeh homie I sprayed a power strip w neem, tossed his ass! Peace babeh
Picked up some Physan20 for cleaning.
Im soaking my old pots in it before I wash them with bleach.
I also have my tools soaking it this stuff.
Is physan safe to put in an ro tank?
The bleach seems to be working well enough though.
I dont have anymore crap on my hoses and my tanks dont smell anymore.
Im soaking my old pots in it before I wash them with bleach.
I also have my tools soaking it this stuff.
Is physan safe to put in an ro tank?
The bleach seems to be working well enough though.
I dont have anymore crap on my hoses and my tanks dont smell anymore.
Does he have it on a 20 amp breaker? I think the reason people are talking about surge protection is because they are using a 20-25 amp appliance on a 30 amp circuit. We do this with the fused disconnect. It would be preferable to have a service disconnect close to the outdoor unit any way, I'm sure it's a code thing also.
I have a friend that flushes with physan, no experience with it personally, but I know he does it.
He actually adds it to nutrient solution, can't remember his schedule exactly, but it happens once or twice a run
dabking
Member
that makes for toxic buds.... I would not consume anything from his garden
Its not toxic to the buds according to the owner of the company.
It can be used, but its not a preventative... Its more like a last resort
This stuff is more for sterilizing equipment and cuttings.
P20 is marketed as a virucide and fungicide
"1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet."
I should mention that I read that from Cap and he said his garden continued to die after using it.
At first he thought the p20 killed his plants, but its probably likely that they were already going to die
It can be used, but its not a preventative... Its more like a last resort
This stuff is more for sterilizing equipment and cuttings.
P20 is marketed as a virucide and fungicide
"1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet."
I should mention that I read that from Cap and he said his garden continued to die after using it.
At first he thought the p20 killed his plants, but its probably likely that they were already going to die
No lies, lol, surprised me too. His shits pretty together so I bet you there is a dose that is safe if someone felt so inclined.
chlorine aint good for you either but it in the correct dosage it saves lives in municipal water supplies. i aint saying its good or bad but often the difference between medicine and poison is dose.
dabking
Member
isn't that the truth!
though its good to be mindful of systemic values. Timing is everything
i dont use it and i dont espouse it. i dont know shit about it i was just making a point that maybe it was safe even though its toxic undiluted directly injested. i use bleach in my clone rez but id not spike a drink with it.
Chlorine is an essential micronutrient.
Natural inputs of chlorine (Cl) to soils come mainly from rainwater, sea spray, dust and air pollution. In addition, human practices, such as irrigation and fertilization, contribute significantly to Cl deposition. In the soil solution, Cl occurs predominantly as the chloride anion (Cl−). The Cl−anion does not form complexes readily, and shows little affinity (or specificity) in its adsorption to soil components. Thus, Cl−movement within the soil is largely determined by water flows. Chlorine is an essential micronutrient for higher plants. It is present mainly as Cl−. Chloride is a major osmotically active solute in the vacuole and is involved in both turgor- and osmoregulation. In the cytoplasm it may regulate the activities of key enzymes. In addition, Cl−also acts as a counter anion, and Cl−fluxes are implicated in the stabilization of membrane potential, regulation of intracellular pH gradients and electrical excitability. Chloride enters plants through the roots, and there is some concern over the uptake of the long-lived radionuclide36Cl, which enters into the food chain through plants. Chloride is thought to traverse the root by a symplastic pathway, and Cl−fluxes across the plasma membrane and tonoplast of root cells have been estimated. These fluxes are regulated by the Cl−content of the root. Chloride is mobile within the plant. The Cl−concentrations of xylem and phloem saps have been determined and Cl−fluxes through the xylem and phloem have been modelled. Measurements of transmembrane voltages and Cl−activities in cellular compartments suggest (1) that active Cl−transport across the plasma membrane dominates Cl−influx to root cells at low Cl−concentrations in the soil solution and that passive Cl−influx to root cells occurs under more saline conditions, and (2) that both active and passive Cl−transport occurs at the tonoplast. Electrophysiological studies have demonstrated the presence of an electrogenic Cl−/2H+symporter in the plasma membrane of root-hair cells and Cl−channels mediating either Cl−influx or Cl−efflux across the plasma membrane. Similarly, there is both biochemical and electrophysiological evidence that Cl−channels mediate Cl−fluxes in either direction across the tonoplast and that a Cl−/nH+antiport mediates Cl−influx to the vacuole. This article reviews the availability of Cl−in the soil, the roles and distribution of Cl−within the plant, the magnitude of Cl−fluxes across membranes and between tissues, the mechanisms of Cl−transport across membranes and the electrical characteristics and molecular biology of Cl−channels. Copyright 2001 Annals of Botany Company
There are about seven nutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only needed in very small quantities. These are manganese, boron, copper, iron, chlorine, molybdenum, and zinc. Though these are present in only small quantities, they are all necessary.
Boron is believed to be involved in carbohydrate transport in plants; it also assists in metabolic regulation. Boron deficiency will often result in bud dieback.
Chlorine is necessary for osmosis and ionic balance; it also plays a role in photosynthesis.
Copper is a component of some enzymes. Symptoms of copper deficiency include browning of leaf tips and chlorosis.
Iron is essential for chlorophyll synthesis, which is why an iron deficiency results in chlorosis.
Manganese activates some important enzymes involved in chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficient plants will develop chlorosis between the veins of its leaves. The availability of manganese is partially dependent on soil pH.
Molybdenum is essential to plant health. Molybdenum is used by plants to reduce nitrates into usable forms. Some plants use it for nitrogen fixation, thus it may need to be added to some soils before seeding legumes.
Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation, and also activates many enzymes. Symptoms of zinc deficiency include chlorosis and stunted growth.
Natural inputs of chlorine (Cl) to soils come mainly from rainwater, sea spray, dust and air pollution. In addition, human practices, such as irrigation and fertilization, contribute significantly to Cl deposition. In the soil solution, Cl occurs predominantly as the chloride anion (Cl−). The Cl−anion does not form complexes readily, and shows little affinity (or specificity) in its adsorption to soil components. Thus, Cl−movement within the soil is largely determined by water flows. Chlorine is an essential micronutrient for higher plants. It is present mainly as Cl−. Chloride is a major osmotically active solute in the vacuole and is involved in both turgor- and osmoregulation. In the cytoplasm it may regulate the activities of key enzymes. In addition, Cl−also acts as a counter anion, and Cl−fluxes are implicated in the stabilization of membrane potential, regulation of intracellular pH gradients and electrical excitability. Chloride enters plants through the roots, and there is some concern over the uptake of the long-lived radionuclide36Cl, which enters into the food chain through plants. Chloride is thought to traverse the root by a symplastic pathway, and Cl−fluxes across the plasma membrane and tonoplast of root cells have been estimated. These fluxes are regulated by the Cl−content of the root. Chloride is mobile within the plant. The Cl−concentrations of xylem and phloem saps have been determined and Cl−fluxes through the xylem and phloem have been modelled. Measurements of transmembrane voltages and Cl−activities in cellular compartments suggest (1) that active Cl−transport across the plasma membrane dominates Cl−influx to root cells at low Cl−concentrations in the soil solution and that passive Cl−influx to root cells occurs under more saline conditions, and (2) that both active and passive Cl−transport occurs at the tonoplast. Electrophysiological studies have demonstrated the presence of an electrogenic Cl−/2H+symporter in the plasma membrane of root-hair cells and Cl−channels mediating either Cl−influx or Cl−efflux across the plasma membrane. Similarly, there is both biochemical and electrophysiological evidence that Cl−channels mediate Cl−fluxes in either direction across the tonoplast and that a Cl−/nH+antiport mediates Cl−influx to the vacuole. This article reviews the availability of Cl−in the soil, the roles and distribution of Cl−within the plant, the magnitude of Cl−fluxes across membranes and between tissues, the mechanisms of Cl−transport across membranes and the electrical characteristics and molecular biology of Cl−channels. Copyright 2001 Annals of Botany Company
There are about seven nutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only needed in very small quantities. These are manganese, boron, copper, iron, chlorine, molybdenum, and zinc. Though these are present in only small quantities, they are all necessary.
Boron is believed to be involved in carbohydrate transport in plants; it also assists in metabolic regulation. Boron deficiency will often result in bud dieback.
Chlorine is necessary for osmosis and ionic balance; it also plays a role in photosynthesis.
Copper is a component of some enzymes. Symptoms of copper deficiency include browning of leaf tips and chlorosis.
Iron is essential for chlorophyll synthesis, which is why an iron deficiency results in chlorosis.
Manganese activates some important enzymes involved in chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficient plants will develop chlorosis between the veins of its leaves. The availability of manganese is partially dependent on soil pH.
Molybdenum is essential to plant health. Molybdenum is used by plants to reduce nitrates into usable forms. Some plants use it for nitrogen fixation, thus it may need to be added to some soils before seeding legumes.
Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation, and also activates many enzymes. Symptoms of zinc deficiency include chlorosis and stunted growth.
I took a few clones a couple of days into flower.
They seemed to be doing fine without any signs of reveg, even though I saw pistils all over them.
After the second time that I topped them I noticed some revegging.
Im wondering if they went into reveg because of the topping, or if the were going to end up doing it anyway.
They had been vegging for a long time before I noticed it right after the second top.
Clones from the same plants that I took a few days before flower never revegged after the second top
They seemed to be doing fine without any signs of reveg, even though I saw pistils all over them.
After the second time that I topped them I noticed some revegging.
Im wondering if they went into reveg because of the topping, or if the were going to end up doing it anyway.
They had been vegging for a long time before I noticed it right after the second top.
Clones from the same plants that I took a few days before flower never revegged after the second top
