bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

[Backyard Farmer]

It'll probably be close to around the same time as last time we were out.

We are going to fly Irect this time.

My girl loves D Town!

We want to find a large commercial property.

 

[bobblehead]

It'll probably be close to around the same time as last time we were out.

We are going to fly Irect this time.

My girl loves D Town!

We want to find a large commercial property.

There's a lot of property available cheap. I was thinking about buying a lot just to build a hobby farm. Do my part to clean up the blight. The D has potential.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Cheap? No thanks....

Cheap will probably take more money to rehab than just getting something nice from the start..

We have specific criteria and I don't think there will be a problem finding what we want or creating it.

 

[bobblehead]

Thanks for the update old man....Hope yas`re feelin better these days...

Just wanted to say thanks for tryin to keep things real in yer boy`s thread about dialage , cuz he`s still snowblind from the whole organic/water only/no till/high brix gardening bein the be all end all wayta grow dope inside , and still believes that sooner or later.....yields will follow.....

I feel that no till high brix gardening is superior to conventional bro methods of growing. If I was growing short term with the possibility of shutting down at any minute and having to move everything, synthetic nutes and a hydroponic medium might make more sense. I'm a medical grower. Been growing in this house for 2 years, with at least 1 more to go.

Maybe they will , but can a water only container of organic dirt pull an 8-9 oz Chem D with couple week veg like HGO`s coco DTW donuts fed multiple times daily till end of cycle ?.....

In less than a 2 gal bucket BTW with very low ppms and very few additives across the board , with nothing but rave reviews on quality , smell , and flavor after chop ?.....no fuckin way....

I grew 6 1lb+ plants with only about 4 weeks veg if that counts for anything in your book. Again, not concerned about having small containers. Larger containers work better with organics... not to mention keeping hormones balanced so I don't have extra stretchy plants. Rave reviews and 25% lab score to back up that qualitative feedback with quantitative.

I didn`t come back here to stir shit , so I`m leaving it up to you and hopefully a few others round here to keep Veg and his disciples in check so their head don`t explode , cuz I`m all for organic practices for what we eat and consume , but to compare synthetic nutrient dialed commercial setups yield-wise with a buncha dirt and ammendments is ludicrous at best....but I digress...

If you're not here to stir shit then why did you write this whole post after I took one little poke at you and posted an opinion that you've publicly shared multiple times? but I digress...I have never claimed that organics will out-yield synthetics. I have repeatedly claimed the quality to be superior. People in the grocery stores pay more for organic produce. Guess what, it happens in the weed markets too.

I know you grow organically Dbro in other places , so a lil expounding on setups and what the differences are in yield each and EVERY Harvey would be appreciated by the masses of youngsters here eatin this water only shit up with a spoon....

Not sayin that EVERYONE shouldn't build their soil and ammend accordingly between crops with soil analyses if it`s for personal use growing indoors , but when you dirt farmers start pumpin out 2+ lbs per light with same REAL time rooted cuts vegged then flipped....

Don't you know I pulled 3.7lbs of Death Star under 2kw the grow before last, my second grow in this room? Are you actually reading? If I didn't hash the larf that you would probably have kept I would have hit 4. Sit tight for this next grow Freds. I'm gonna blow the doors off anything I ever did under your direction.

Throw me up a side by side and prove it..consistently ....run in run out over just 1 yr`s period......just 1.....I rest my case....

ALL my old head hippies grow their outdoor plants with as few synthetics as possible cuz those bigass above ground planters get re-used every yr , but...

They STILL juice their plants for the 10 lb+ giant pumpkins that ALL of em on the left coast pull from each plantsite EVERY yr for many yrs from several different proven producer hybrids/varieties....but...

All their indoor shit`s mostly coco DTW or blumats WITH god forbid....synthetic nutes....and why ?.....cuz they know dirt can`t compete in a production minded facility that requires consistent returns on investment....anyways....

Are you seriously still talking about what your internet friends who you've never met are doing? Get a life! You don't see me telling everyone what BYF or Respect Green or PTB or anyone else who I have actually met is doing. I do me. You should try being yourself sometime Freds. Its liberating to say the least.

Hope no bullshit comes from this in your thread , I just refuse to play games with snide remarks in threads I don`t belong in.....

Hopefully some ego`s will calm down around here and stop their arrogance , but prolly not...

Peace....Freds........

Well I managed to keep it out of D's thread and put it where it belongs. Good to see you're still following Freds. Obviously you care more than you are willing to admit. I'm doing something you've never done. You wish you had a 10'x20' sealed with all the bells and whistles. I worked hard to get here. You have cartel weed in the freezer for when you run out of your "bubba"... Right... If I wasn't growing and I had grow bros xyz in Salmon Creek I would be heading up there to buy a couple bows and send them back before I ever gave a cartel money. Your stories are 100% transparent and its tiresome.

This is what I grow now.

OGK

Skywalker

Death Star

GSC

 

[silver hawaiian]

I read that and I'm all

[/QUOTE]

 

[Backyard Farmer]

LOL.


Bobblehead, don't waste your time.

 

[Photosynthesis]

Reserved for later. Quoted to keep him honest and make him eat his words.

It should ALWAYS be about quality not quantity.

When people start spouting out shit about "pounds per light" I have a small seizure, and nod off.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

The thing is,

The way I recommended to Bobblehead to revamp his grow has produced 2+ per light of top quality for me for YEARS with multiple elite clones that are commonly proliferated...Chem 4 , Trainwreck , The DOG , Cheese , Urkle , Sour Diesel ....The list goes on and on.

He just took it to the extreme and didn't listen the first time and spend all his fun tickets on a perfect environment...

But maybe this grow it'll get there..One can only hope. I will say that your most recent photos are looking correct and are the best plants you've ever grown...


I'm gong to bash synthetics in my best DHF persona :

Synthetic nutes make your plants green because of the blue indicator dye mixing with the yellow and turning them Green !!! Organics are the only way to grow! Phoenix feather meal , unicorn horn meal , vegan hippie tears for amendments and Patchouli oil foliar spray to keep bugs away!

 

[Backyard Farmer]

I'd also keep the Calcium Chloride and Triacontanol separate from everything else and spray them on their own...

The preparation of CaCl2 and Triacontanol I use is from www.calcium25.com , Vegetable and Ornamental formula. 4 grams per gallon.

 

[Classic Seeds]

hi bobblehead how about a few more pictures of the progress of the plants.i enjoy the debate your grow is generating myself because of my humid condition here have learned to leave any spraying of anything go .it just creates mold in the buds and on the leaves after a run of foggy days I tried spraying it off the next day but even a little residue makes a place for spore to take hold .so everything I do as additives is added to the soil mix and I count on it to reach the plant if the soil ph's are stable and they are available it works better than spraying in my case outdoors .inside it would be cost prohibitive to regulate a perfect inviroment here so I just constantly exhaust it all seems to be working .keep up the good information and I will keep learning what I can even if its not right for my climates pitfalls aloha cls

 

[LyryC]

I'm gong to bash synthetics in my best DHF persona :

Synthetic nutes make your plants green because of the blue indicator dye mixing with the yellow and turning them Green !!! Organics are the only way to grow! Phoenix feather meal , unicorn horn meal , vegan hippie tears for amendments and Patchouli oil foliar spray to keep bugs away!

hahahahaha now this is signature material right here

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Organics are the only way to grow! Phoenix feather meal , unicorn horn meal , vegan hippie tears for amendments and Patchouli oil foliar spray to keep bugs away!

Let me guess, you are vegan, and against composted ogre poop.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Ogre digestive systems are so acidic that they render all the fairies they eat in to a jelly with no nutritive value ..

I'm not a vegan , if you read my posts you'll notice the higher brain function

 

[bobblehead]

Well the most important thing is that the new split is blowing cold! 1 week flowering

 

[bobblehead]

Headband

GG#4

Platinum Cookies

Death Star

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Bro, you need to read bigpapas post on planting a bed! Quit that willynilly stuff and plant your plants on center

 

[bobblehead]

hi bobblehead how about a few more pictures of the progress of the plants.i enjoy the debate your grow is generating myself because of my humid condition here have learned to leave any spraying of anything go .it just creates mold in the buds and on the leaves after a run of foggy days I tried spraying it off the next day but even a little residue makes a place for spore to take hold .so everything I do as additives is added to the soil mix and I count on it to reach the plant if the soil ph's are stable and they are available it works better than spraying in my case outdoors .inside it would be cost prohibitive to regulate a perfect inviroment here so I just constantly exhaust it all seems to be working .keep up the good information and I will keep learning what I can even if its not right for my climates pitfalls aloha cls

Calcium foliars are used to prevent/supress PM in cucumber crops.

 

[bobblehead]

Bro, you need to read bigpapas post on planting a bed!

Can you direct me? IDK why I did it like that. I would have put some in the middle in retrospect. I'm gonna be redirecting branches regularly through stretch.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

I wish I could find a link.

You just need to plant them on a grid..that is what "on centers" refers to

If the bed is 4' square off the edge 6" and in 6" then a plant every ft....

 

[bobblehead]

This summarizes what I've been reading pretty well.

After doing a bit more research on Triacontanol formulations i ran across some information of interest. Studies have show that, for some unknown reason, when TRIA is co-applied with cations with a valence charge or +2 or greater, the yield increasing abilities of TRIA increase greatly, sometimes by 3 fold. Unfortunately for me and some others, this calls for a reformulation.

The salt that has been tested with TRIA that shows the most benefits is Calcium Chloride. Out of all the cations, Calcium (+2) and Lanthanum (+3) had the most synergy with TRIA, Ca (and Mg) being the least phytotoxic out of all tested. Out of the Calcium salts, CaCl2 is the most tested salt, helps keep the solution at a pH >7.0 (where TRIA is effective), and sterilizes the working solution. when CaCl was added to the TRIA solution, yield enhancement is often tripled. It has also been shown that these cations cannot be chelated if cation-TRIA synergy is desired, which requires polysorbates (such as Tween 20) and some other non-ionic surfactants to not be used in the formulation, as some non-ionic surfactants will chelate the cations. Instead the formulation requires a polar organic solvent such as alcohols, glycols, ketones, dipolar aprotic solvents etc. to emulsify the solution (acetone seems to be the #1 choice). The above type of formulation with TRIA being co-applied with a cation with a valence of +2 or greater and the use of an organic polar solvent (and often one or more of cytokinins, gibberellins and NAA) has shown to have greater improvements in growth over TRIA formulations where a non-ionic surfactant has been used. furthermore addition of any of the polysorbates have shown to have either negative or no effects on TRIA applications.

while this is somewhat disappointing, research also shows that applying these cations with a valence of +2 or greater to the soil in much greater quantities (in comparison to foliage application) before TRIA application has a similar effect to foliar co-applications of the cations with TRIA. so a feed heavy in Ca+ (and most likely Mg, Mn, and Zn) a day or 2 before a TRIA application will be beneficial if non-chelated Ca cannot be added to spray solution.

TRIA can be co-applied with auxins (aside from IAA, and not when combined with Ca+ as Ca inhibits auxin activity), brassinosteroids, cytokinins, or gibberellins. Oddly enough IAA has shown to have inhibitive effects on TRIA, while other auxins (specifically synthetic ones) have shown no such relationship. when i learn more of the mechanics behind this i will post it. Since Vitazyme is a formulation with both Triacontanol and IAA in it, i would not suggest using that product for optimum results. i personally do not suggest co-application with auxins or gibberellins for most marijuana growing situations. Brassinosteroids seem to have the least synergy with TRIA out of all phytohormones tested, so i suggest co-appling TRIA with BAP or Ascophyllum nodosum extract and separately applying Brassinosteroids in conjunction with a non ionic surfactant.

U.S. Patent # 4470840
http://www.patents.com/us-4470840.html


other patents that cover everything i've explained:

U.S. Patent #4333758
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4333758.html

U.S. Patent #4230485
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/4230485/fulltext.html

U.S. Patent #4455162
http://www.patents.com/us-4455162.html

U.S. Patent #4169716
http://www.patents.com/us-4169716.html

U.S. Patent #4411685
http://www.patents.com/us-4411685.html

In an optimal Triacontanol stock solution you want:
de-ionized or distilled water (DDW or RODI is best)
Triacontanol
Acetone
Calcium Chloride/Calcium Nitrate
Potassium Hydroxide to adjust pH as needed to at least 8.0 (preferably not above 10.0)
optionally a non ionic surfactant that will not chelate/complex the calcium.
Pure Methanol can be used as a superior substitute of the water/acetone combination if using on C3 or CAM plants (non C4 plants). If methanol is used, use Calcium Nitrate instead of Calcium Chloride.

Have other PGRs in a separate stock solution and tank mix as desired