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CaliGabe
Just buy some mylar foil bags from a survival type supply store and heat seal it in year's worth increments. A few local friends use it and honestly was clueless there were different formulas for different applications...oops.
I'm gonna go in hella late this year and fortunately friends nursing starts for me. I picked up some good pointers from a lot of people in the thread recently and thx for sharing the knowledge
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Cep
Milky I think you're on to something with K uptake. At least in my opinion people shouldn't be using such strong K doses in bloom. I know about how much is in the tissue mid bloom. This year I'll take petiole samples in veg, beginning of bloom, and late bloom to see how the levels change. We can't yet do the sap testing, maybe next year.
I say go for it with the phosphoric. Or do a side by side. I'd only worry about mycorrhizal species in no-till situations or maybe you are working towards no-till? If you got fresh stuff this year you'd have to inoculate it, then plant other stuff when you chop your ganja so the fungi can reinfect something or they go dormant over the winter. Point is though most of us are mixing in amendments every year and that really disturbs mycorrhizal fungi.
Looking forward to the pie pics come fall...
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CaliGabe
Why not? I heard AEA not sending out sap meters? Just go buy one as they're 'only' $350
. Are you talking plant tissue testing and not sap testing? Seems like this K issue is an important one...especially if you use a lot of compost or at least a lot of compost from a certain source 
We are talking nova crop control sap testing. Very different than a horiba k sap test meter.
The good thing about k is you can see when you are running short with a brix meter and adjust up if you need to. Removing it is like taking salt out of soup though
Edit...aea's new programs only use hypercap in foliar. Not in the soil. That is why I am giving it a shot. You really want controversy, nitrogen application is the place to argue
The good thing about k is you can see when you are running short with a brix meter and adjust up if you need to. Removing it is like taking salt out of soup though
Edit...aea's new programs only use hypercap in foliar. Not in the soil. That is why I am giving it a shot. You really want controversy, nitrogen application is the place to argue
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CaliGabe
Cep mentioned maybe next year so are they looking at setting up in the US and gonna offer canna testing? I looked through their Acres presentations and very nice.
When I was dealing with AEA earlier this year I got CannLabs in Denver VERY interested in working with AEA on plant tissue testing. They wanted to see a proposal yet AEA said I was getting too far ahead. I know CannLabs had plant tissue testing on the agenda when I talked to them and will get to it eventually.
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Cep
Why not? I heard AEA not sending out sap meters? Just go buy one as they're 'only' $350
I'm not going to get a meter for every element, I'd prefer to send it to nova and get a read out on everything.
Yeah green light if its foliar. Keep us updated.
When I spoke with Kempf in March he was talking about getting the same equipment nova uses. I can't remember if he said he already bought it or was planning on it. Either way, us being able to send samples in is uncertain. All we can do is hope.
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When transplanting somewhat heavily root-bound plants (in plastic pots), do you guys break up the roots or just drop them in as-is after pulling them out of the pot? Somewhat heavily meaning, a tight wad of roots circling / packing the bottom of the pot.
nomaad, what were your results on transplanting a smartpot'd plant directly without ripping out the original pot? I can't seem to find it, but I think Backyard Farmer was recommending just ripping out the bottom of the pot, including any roots that grew into it, while Tom Hill recommended using plastic pots to just "slip out" of. (But I'm assuming Tom isn't letting his plants get too root-bound, so no need to break up roots.)
nomaad, what were your results on transplanting a smartpot'd plant directly without ripping out the original pot? I can't seem to find it, but I think Backyard Farmer was recommending just ripping out the bottom of the pot, including any roots that grew into it, while Tom Hill recommended using plastic pots to just "slip out" of. (But I'm assuming Tom isn't letting his plants get too root-bound, so no need to break up roots.)
Grow nerd, I don't use smart pots I hate them.
I use grow bags and cut them off and drop the plant in. Bam!
I use grow bags and cut them off and drop the plant in. Bam!
I use plastic pots so they slip out without hurting any roots.
I then loosen the soil around the edges so the roots can grab hold of the new soil, and shoot out in all directions rather than straight down.
BOTTOM ~
TOP ~ After roughing up the edges. Ready to t/p into big growbags for outdoors
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CaliGabe
Nevermind
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dannykarey
Well-known member
individual meters are very pricey.
I use a lab.
Danny
I use a lab.
Danny
Letting your soil cook is somewhat of a myth. Unless your talking about turning last years crop into the soil, then you should be able to plant right away. If your really worried, just surround your new plant with some old soil from last year. That way the roots can search out the new soil when the plant is ready to do so. Good luck.
SMART POT - I don't know why people complain about transplants with smart pots......Just roll down the fabric starting from the top. It should just roll off with little to no problems. I have done this with 65 gal smart pots with little trouble. Hope this helps.
Edit: post # 187 and I killed it, lol.
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Cep
This has been discussed before; you can damage plants if translating into hot soil. If this wasn't the case people wouldn't plant into buffers of black gold or other lighter soil. Measure the ergs or conductivity of your soil.
i personally prefer the soil to be around an EC of 0.3 when I go into it (or the buffer soil). When the plant photosynthesizes it sends sugars to the roots. The bacteria then feed on that sugar and they end up producing organic acids which frees up elements as ions or microbial metabolites that raise the EC...hopefully up to 0.6 or so during full growth.
We try to cheat the system by putting plants way to big in it. When you do that the root system cannot keep up with the shoot growth...and that probably already started if you let the plant get rootbound. Then the roots cannot provide enough food to both support the growth of the shoots plus provide enough extra energy to also provide sugar/aminos/fats to the roots and microbes.
You have set your plant up for health problems. You will be able to watch the EC of your soil drop rather than rise. At that point you either need to feed the plant or top to slow down auxin production.
Far better to start a smaller, non root bound plant if it is the health of the plant you care about.
We try to cheat the system by putting plants way to big in it. When you do that the root system cannot keep up with the shoot growth...and that probably already started if you let the plant get rootbound. Then the roots cannot provide enough food to both support the growth of the shoots plus provide enough extra energy to also provide sugar/aminos/fats to the roots and microbes.
You have set your plant up for health problems. You will be able to watch the EC of your soil drop rather than rise. At that point you either need to feed the plant or top to slow down auxin production.
Far better to start a smaller, non root bound plant if it is the health of the plant you care about.
Soiless mix for outdoor plants?
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