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Air condition more efficient ?

VAtransplant

Active member
Yeah, if you want an out of the box solution with tech support.. arduino may not be your best bet. However, the documentation is *incredible*. Tons of example codes are included with the free development tool (basically just looks like notepad with a few buttons). The forums are also insanely popular, lots of posts with people doing grow controllers, aquarium controllers, snow plow robots, basically anything you can think of.

Since it takes a geek to kind of get in to this thing, a lot of people are passionate about helping you solve problems. Most other programming languages (like writing for iOS), you ask a question and you get a bunch of elitists and people who provide minimal information assuming you can fill in the rest. Arduino community rocks.

The code snippet I included really isn't that scary when you think about it. The top half is all static, you just slap that in the top of your file and leave it there. The only thing you have to really focus on was the actual temp getting function:

float currentTemp = sensors.getTempFByIndex(0);
if(currentTemp > maxTemp) {
digitalWrite(WATERPUMP, HIGH);
digitalWrite(FAN, HIGH);

} else if (currentTemp < (maxTemp - 5)) {
digitalWrite(WATERPUMP, LOW);
digitalWrite(FAN, LOW);

}

So you're just using < and > to determine if your current temperature is higher or lower than the defined set maximum. Digital write simply means tell a pin to turn on, which flips the relay, flips your fan.

You could even throw some water sensors around and detect if you've had a leak. If yes, use digitalwrite to turn off your pump and alert you. The potential is huge, since you can have it turn on a simple LED to alarm you, turn on a flashing red light like in a nuclear silo (hah), or with a little practice send you a text message or alert your phone via a simple app.

If you ever want to get back in to coding and want to start with something simple, like a 4 sensor temperature and humidity program that controls fans, pumps, and humidifer (if you have one), let me know. Can basically just send you the contents of my Amazon shopping cart from one of my previous orders, all prime shipping, cheap as hell. If you get the same stuff I can take a picture of my arduino, you can wire it up the same exact way, and run the same code that I could send you. Just about anyone could pick this up fast

You really don't have to worry much about errors in your code tanking your grow. A couple lines of code here and there provide safety, redundancy, and the intelligence to handle anything that could go wrong. Shit, there's even an arduino smoke and poisonous gas sensor that's $7. I'm also in CO, so if you ever got stumped I'm not far away.
 
Tell me more! I'm looking at buying Growtronix to do the same thing, but if you have a better/cheaper alternative that fills my needs I'm all about it.
you might google cai webcontrol

it is kinda diy, but there are a lot of people to help you.

Or, I also like the beaglebone black. even more DIY, that includes software DIY, but tonnes of capacity. also open source so your stuck to a vendor
 

Ttystikk

Member
VATransplant, thank you for the detailed look into the system. Now you have my full attention, as you've covered my basic concerns.

I'm guessing that cost, the ability to use any gear and the code library are the keys to this system's edge. What kind of wiring is used to get the data and control signals back and forth? Does this use Ethernet as well? This has crazy possibilities, and I don't wish to limit myself in terms of future ideas. My ultimate concern about any system is that I might outgrow it. The other concern is that it takes too much of my time to set up and operate it.

LargePrime, nice to meet you! Thanks for the links, it looks like I got more homework to do.

Boy, am I glad I didn't buy a Grobot, lol
 
LargePrime, nice to meet you! Thanks for the links, it looks like I got more homework to do.

Boy, am I glad I didn't buy a Grobot, lol
The arduino phenomenon has exploded the DY industrial control world into the "main stream"

The beaglebones are rather arduino compatible, with even more expandability and robustness. the software is all linux/php. the hardware is all low voltage sensors and relays running anything in the world you could want. I have a 5v solid state optically isolated relays running 240V equipment in my set up. These little guys are ~1USD and will run just about anything in a grow room. you can get versions that will controll power to your water chillers too.

You also can have PH, CO2, EC, soil moisture, and all the industrial control. all in a main control package that is about 45$

But VATransplant, Ttystikk, perhaps we should take this to a different thread, as its kinda off topic?
 

SourSmoke

Member
Budley, and anyone else: Do you have a favorite mfg for minisplits? It sounds like the Mr. Slims are quite dependable but my HVAC tech is steering me towards Fujitsu. Anyone have some favorites? Thanks.
 

VAtransplant

Active member
VATransplant, thank you for the detailed look into the system. Now you have my full attention, as you've covered my basic concerns.

I'm guessing that cost, the ability to use any gear and the code library are the keys to this system's edge. What kind of wiring is used to get the data and control signals back and forth? Does this use Ethernet as well? This has crazy possibilities, and I don't wish to limit myself in terms of future ideas. My ultimate concern about any system is that I might outgrow it. The other concern is that it takes too much of my time to set up and operate it.

I use 3.5mm audio jacks for my temperature and humidity sensors. Most sensors will be like 3 pins max, and 3.5mm headphone/speaker jazz is 3 conductor. I bought a pack of 10 panel mount female jacks, drilled a few holes in a $5 project box enclosure, and screwed them in. The back end of them is just 3 prongs that you can easily solder (by the way, I suck at soldering, but my $10 setup does it flawlessly and nothing has screwed up yet). Good skill to have, too.

With certain sensors (one wire sensors, like the temp only ones) you can connect several to one jack. Thus, a cheapo Y cable headphone splitter can give you two probes. You just add another line of code to distinguish between the two since they're both returning data on the same line. The temp/humidity combo sensors unfortunately can't do this, so you have to give them each their own audio jack.

I've also used RJ11 phone cable and $3 female ends which gives you 6 pins. These are neat for controlling 4-relay boards (power, ground, and 4 signal wires). There are a ton of options and you can use just about any cable that you have laying around. Cheapo speaker wire works well too if you want.

I use a $10 ethernet 'shield' as they're called. It plugs in directly on top of the arduino main board. It takes about 45 seconds of copying/pasting a few lines of code to get it running. The ethernet shields also have SD card slots on them, so a $3 microSD 4gb card can plug in and store boat loads of sensor data if you don't want to send it to the internet (or as backup). Wireless shields are expensive currently, about $80. For that money you can get an Arduino YUN model ($70), the latest thing, with built in wireless.

I took an old router and made it a bridge for my wireless network. It sits near my arduino and takes wireless from my main network and spits it out the ethernet ports. You can also get a $20 TPLink travel router and do the same. If you spend a little more and get a router with USB port, you can effectively provide wireless and charge the arduino for about half the cost of the wireless shield.

You won't outgrow it. If it takes a lot of time, that's because your hooked. If you were just trying to assemble something functional without really learning the concept behind it, say 5 minutes of assembly. That consists of just plugging pins in to little holes, and plugging in a USB cable. The code, like I said, you can just copy and paste something that I could PM you if you wanted. You will spend more time even with some out of the box solution, trying to learn someone else's big project.

My coworker and I looked at growtronix today and decided it's overpriced and kind of crummy. $600 for the BASE model, the software looks like crapola, and it only has temp/rh sensors. We both grow and both have built independent grow controllers, him being a web developer moreso, has built a beautiful web UI. I know we won't ever go anywhere with the idea but we're going to both have some sweet(er) stuff after a quick collaboration.
 

Ttystikk

Member
The arduino phenomenon has exploded the DY industrial control world into the "main stream"

The beaglebones are rather arduino compatible, with even more expandability and robustness. the software is all linux/php. the hardware is all low voltage sensors and relays running anything in the world you could want. I have a 5v solid state optically isolated relays running 240V equipment in my set up. These little guys are ~1USD and will run just about anything in a grow room. you can get versions that will controll power to your water chillers too.

You also can have PH, CO2, EC, soil moisture, and all the industrial control. all in a main control package that is about 45$

But VATransplant, Ttystikk, perhaps we should take this to a different thread, as its kinda off topic?

We are in danger of going off topic, although I fully intend to run my entire HVAC system with something like this from chiller through VPD and climate control for living spaces. I'll bet that this is the system necessary to let me program my chillers to maintain comfortable temperatures in my home all winter automatically, huh?

Someone feel free to start a topic about industrial controls/greenhouse automation, post a link here. This is a legitimate tangent to the current topic.

Another related, tangential topic is my interest in building a big pond for aquaponics, while using that pond to shed growroom heat in the winter or cool weather. A topic for a warmer day...
 

Ttystikk

Member
And most these guys will share their code and designs.

I use 3.5mm audio jacks for my temperature and humidity sensors. Most sensors will be like 3 pins max, and 3.5mm headphone/speaker jazz is 3 conductor. I bought a pack of 10 panel mount female jacks, drilled a few holes in a $5 project box enclosure, and screwed them in. The back end of them is just 3 prongs that you can easily solder (by the way, I suck at soldering, but my $10 setup does it flawlessly and nothing has screwed up yet). Good skill to have, too.

With certain sensors (one wire sensors, like the temp only ones) you can connect several to one jack. Thus, a cheapo Y cable headphone splitter can give you two probes. You just add another line of code to distinguish between the two since they're both returning data on the same line. The temp/humidity combo sensors unfortunately can't do this, so you have to give them each their own audio jack.

I've also used RJ11 phone cable and $3 female ends which gives you 6 pins. These are neat for controlling 4-relay boards (power, ground, and 4 signal wires). There are a ton of options and you can use just about any cable that you have laying around. Cheapo speaker wire works well too if you want.

I use a $10 ethernet 'shield' as they're called. It plugs in directly on top of the arduino main board. It takes about 45 seconds of copying/pasting a few lines of code to get it running. The ethernet shields also have SD card slots on them, so a $3 microSD 4gb card can plug in and store boat loads of sensor data if you don't want to send it to the internet (or as backup). Wireless shields are expensive currently, about $80. For that money you can get an Arduino YUN model ($70), the latest thing, with built in wireless.

I took an old router and made it a bridge for my wireless network. It sits near my arduino and takes wireless from my main network and spits it out the ethernet ports. You can also get a $20 TPLink travel router and do the same. If you spend a little more and get a router with USB port, you can effectively provide wireless and charge the arduino for about half the cost of the wireless shield.

You won't outgrow it. If it takes a lot of time, that's because your hooked. If you were just trying to assemble something functional without really learning the concept behind it, say 5 minutes of assembly. That consists of just plugging pins in to little holes, and plugging in a USB cable. The code, like I said, you can just copy and paste something that I could PM you if you wanted. You will spend more time even with some out of the box solution, trying to learn someone else's big project.

My coworker and I looked at growtronix today and decided it's overpriced and kind of crummy. $600 for the BASE model, the software looks like crapola, and it only has temp/rh sensors. We both grow and both have built independent grow controllers, him being a web developer moreso, has built a beautiful web UI. I know we won't ever go anywhere with the idea but we're going to both have some sweet(er) stuff after a quick collaboration.

The arduino phenomenon has exploded the DY industrial control world into the "main stream"

The beaglebones are rather arduino compatible, with even more expandability and robustness. the software is all linux/php. the hardware is all low voltage sensors and relays running anything in the world you could want. I have a 5v solid state optically isolated relays running 240V equipment in my set up. These little guys are ~1USD and will run just about anything in a grow room. you can get versions that will controll power to your water chillers too.

You also can have PH, CO2, EC, soil moisture, and all the industrial control. all in a main control package that is about 45$

But VATransplant, Ttystikk, perhaps we should take this to a different thread, as its kinda off topic?

This is Awesome info, most deserving of its own thread- so I started one;
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=6207660#post6207660

Let's rock this! You have me all excited now!
 

LSWM

Active member
After reading through this thread, I'm wondering if a large res in my garage on cement floor would be enough to keep my room cool all by itself.

I live at ~7000 feet so the air is pretty dry, and the warmest it gets in the summer is a Low of 50F and High of 90F. On average no higher than 40/80.

Even if the ambient heatsink (earth/cement/garage) wouldn't keep the water cool enough to provide enough air cooling, I wonder if using a second heat exchanger outside the garage, with a pump/fan running only at night would make a difference? With night temps at 40 I would think that the res would cool down fairly quickly if everything is sized appropriately, and if the pump was turned off as temps outside rose, that the thermal energy in the res would keep things chilled all damn day.

Anyone see a problem with this idea? Any idea of how large a res or heat exchanger would be needed to cool a 3-4k on flip? I seemed like there was some discussion a couple pages ago but that it didn't lead anywhere.
 

LSWM

Active member
Seems to me that using ambient temps to cool a heatsink is definitely an energy efficient way to go if you get large day/night temp differences.
 

Ttystikk

Member
Seems to me that using ambient temps to cool a heatsink is definitely an energy efficient way to go if you get large day/night temp differences.

The issue is not whether it will work; of course it will. The question is whether it will work FAST ENOUGH, that is whether it can keep up with the heat load you're putting on it. If using an open res to cool, blow air across the open water on top. This takes advantage of cooling by transpiration and will help a lot.
 

Asslover

Member
Veteran
Budley, and anyone else: Do you have a favorite mfg for minisplits? It sounds like the Mr. Slims are quite dependable but my HVAC tech is steering me towards Fujitsu. Anyone have some favorites? Thanks.
Fujitsu's are as good as a Mitsubishi, some models of Fujitsu use Mitsubishi compressors.
A Mitsubishi will always be my first choice (i run two and installed 9) but really a Fujitsu is just as quality. :2cents:
One of my Mitsu's has been running 24/7/365 for a few years now, and I'm in Florida so you can imagine the workout it gets...
 

Ez Rider

Active member
Veteran
Fujitsu's are as good as a Mitsubishi, some models of Fujitsu use Mitsubishi compressors.
A Mitsubishi will always be my first choice (i run two and installed 9) but really a Fujitsu is just as quality. :2cents:

Go with any MAJOR manufacturer...thet're all pretty much the same. STAY AWAY from any units made in CHINA.
 
Z

z-ro

While a/c is the way to go I know many people running 20+ lights on vented rooms. A 14in max fan going out and 10 inch coming in will cool ten lights with ease in the right climate.
 

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